Spitfire GB

I have put templates for Spitfire camoflage patterns on my web site.  They include  Pattern A, Pattern B, and both Macolm Hood and bubble canopy patterns.  Hope you find them useful.

Here:

http://www.yolo.net/~jeaton/mymodels/spitfire/templates/SpitTemp.html

Although you cant see it on the above photo, there was a sinkhole on the pilot's headrest cushion. It became more noticable after painting. I filled and sanded it last night.

jeaton01

I have put templates for Spitfire camoflage patterns on my web site.  They include  Pattern A, Pattern B, and both Macolm Hood and bubble canopy patterns.  Hope you find them useful.

Here:

http://www.yolo.net/~jeaton/mymodels/spitfire/templates/SpitTemp.html

Thanks! Does it matter which one I print off? top/side vew or the templates?

You need both.  You cut out the templates and use the drawing for a guide to placement.

Thank you very much! Firs time masking camo like this.

Got the camera out this afternoon before the sun set, so couple more shots of the harness.

Was able to find a spare section of plastic card (think it was from an Airfix historic figure kit used to create reins and straps).   One piece was cut to fit the whole width of the gap, followed by another only about 2/3 wide and glued center.  Some liquid surfacer and then sanded everything down as even as possible.

A sheet of brass was used to make the two gun-bay vents.   Cutting a piece triangular in shape to the required size,  I used a scriber to "forge" the roundness - first by rolling it on the table.  Then with the aid of an exacto blade, gingerly curled up the narrow end as best as I could - finger nail worked too as the metal was fairly plyable.  Then with a phote-etch file and sanding stick did the final shaping, again mostly at the narrow closed end. 

1. file___ 2. sand stick ___3. brass ___ 4. scriber ___ 5. blade ___ 6. finished vent

I opted to scratch build these as the molded ones from another kit are quite shallow compared to period photos.  Don't know why the vents are of two different sizes, but the warm air from the radiator was fed into the gunbays to help the brownings from freezing. 

Didn't plan on adding detail to the rad, but when  the cover is in place one can still see daylight through the opening.  The screen is a leftover from an Airwaves set.

regards,
Jack

It's coming along very well, Jack; looks great.

You guys do such nice work. I hope mine turnes out half as good as any of yours.

Thanks to jeaton I should have the camo painted this weekend. I could have had it done already but I had to repaint some of the bottom color due to masks lifting up in some areas.

Whats the best tape to use to hold down masks during painting?

Well, I'm in!

Just ordered the Tamiya 1/48 MK1 on Ebay. Going to turn it into the pink recon spit so I have something pink to hang in my daughter's room. This will be my first attempt at marking an aircraft not out of the box, but I probably will mostly stick to what I get. I'm not too picky about exact accuracy as long as it looks right.

This website is my inspiration and will be my main reference:

http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/Gal3/2701-2800/Gal2741_Spitfire_Manzoli/00.shtm

That being said, there has been some incredible work on here! You guys have way more talent and patience than me. To me, as long as it looks right, I'm happy.

Puddle- I found the image that is the GB badge by a simple Spitfire image search. Try that, can't promise anything, but if you don't find it I might still have the original on my computer somewhere.

Noah- This is probably really late, but I do know some Russian, and from the looks of what I can see on your kit, if you learn the phonetics of the Russian alphabet, you can probably figure out a lot of the words on the instructions. Russian is one of those languages that most modern words don't really have a translation. For example, buffet is phonetically spelled "boofet" in Russian. Easy enough once you learn the letters.

Thanks guys!

ww2psycho -  for masks I've always used regular household masking tape, but when at the airbrush stage would re-apply pressure to the taped areas to ensure they were down good.  If the mask is flush with the surface (to get a hard edge) spray a light coat first just along the edges to form a seal before going all out.

sub - welcome aboard, nice choice for your build - at least you only have one main colour to worry about. 

Can only speak for myself, but I wasn't always concerned with details.  After building literally hundreds of kits (stopped counting around 400) I began to do  research on specifics , really wanting to know the history or "story" of the subject at hand.  This really slowed down the build process,  and decided I'd be more content with an accurate build than just a finished product. Mind you, on average kits today are more accurate and complete than they were 35+ years ago.

regards,
Jack

Roster updated, welcome aboard sub revolution! I'll post pics after the packer game of where I am.

jgeratic1

 

 Mind you, on average kits today are more accurate and complete than they were 35+ years ago.

Oh so very true Jack. I love the detail on new kits. But sometimes it's also pretty fun to add the detail on your own to an old kit.

Well today was more painting on my Mk VII.  The engine block main colors and detail work in the cockpit and engine firewall.

First up the engine (only placed and not glued into the motor mount)

cockpit sidewalls

cockpit center area

and the IP- I used some Pro Modeler decals on the IP, slightly re arranged. The decals were just applied and the Solvaset was drying at the time of this pic...

Extremely neat and precise painting, stikpusher.  Looks very good.

Thank you Checkmate. This is really a great kit of a beautiful aircraft.

Really Sweet start there stikpusher. Everything looks sharp and precise.

I put the fifnishing details on my Spitfire yesterday morning. Unfortunately did not have time to take pics prior to Fishing, Football and Feasting. I'll get some up here right directly.

                                                                                   Joe

Heres where Im at.

Very, very nice work on the camo ww2psycho. she appears to be coming along nicely.

JOE RIX

Very, very nice work on the camo ww2psycho. she appears to be coming along nicely.

I second that, good work with the masks. 

Just a small item depending on how accurate you want to be, the protruding Browning muzzles (two on each wing) were only on the first production run Spitfire Is.  Unless you are doing a very, very early Spit they should be removed.

regards,

Jack

jgeratic1

I second that, good work with the masks. 

Just a small item depending on how accurate you want to be, the protruding Browning muzzles (two on each wing) were only on the first production run Spitfire Is.  Unless you are doing a very, very early Spit they should be removed.

regards,

Jack

Thanks for the Info. The instructions say its 1940 I believe, Im not sure how early we're talking. I really gotta start doing research. My guess its a BoB aircraft.

It's an easy fix, some plastic to carve and drill out followed by touch up with the airbrush,  but I wouldn't worry.  I came across a  professional web site touting they build museum quality replicas and had left them on as well.  I too made the same mistake with my first stab at this kit.  I knew something was wrong with those protrusions, but I just assumed it was right since nothing in the instructions indicated otherwise.  Blame Tamiya, as they kitted a very early version of the Mk I but the decals provided are all for the BoB era (1940).

A little more info on those little "thingies" ... The first squadron to be equipped with the spitfire was no.19 during October of 1938.  The flash eliminators were intended for night time flying.  Articles that I have read indicate either these were removed early in the war or replaced at the outbreak of war.

regards,

Jack

Yes, ww2psycho, your work with the masks turned out exceptionally well.  Nice job.

Compadres my Spitfire MkVb is complete. The finishing touches were done Thanksgiving morning and now I have the pics to share.

 The weathering is an oil wash of Wayne & Newtons burnt umber with a touch of oil lamp black, The panels were post shaded using Tamiya weathering pastels and chalk pastels were used for other highlighting. Paint chipping was accomplished with a piece of foam brush dipped in Tamiya aluminum and dabbed on and with a silver pencil.

 I would like to Thank you all for the oppurtunity to model with you. This is the first GB I have been a part of thru completion and it has been an excellent build. I greatly appreciate all the advice and knowledge that has been shared here and most of all I have just been absolutely impressed with the skills you have all demonstrated with your amazing Spits. I certainly look forward to seeing the rest of everyones Spits.

 As stated at the start this is the aircraft of Sgt. Jack Evans of No. 71 American Eagle Squadron. All that is known of him is that he was shot down n this aircraft.

So in memory of Sgt. Jack Evans....

..here is his Spitfire in 1/48 scale.

Well done, Joe; all-around outstanding.  Weathering is very eye-catching and appealing.

Well done, Joe. 

Looks good, ww2psycho.

Joe, that is outstanding work there!

Ok I've started my second Spit for this build a Floatfire as posted earlier. I've got the pontoons together and the old fin cut off and the new rudder fin on. There is a good bi of correctin needed where the wings meet the fueselage and nearly everything has some gaps.

Ive done a bit of research (not that much really) and see that this has the high altitude wing tips. I know that the C wing eventually made it where you could switch from the LF to the regular to the Mk7 type wingtips at one's preference or sit need. Do you think a floatplane wouldve had the pointy wing tips?

The boxlid has the bottom of the floats in Sky S but the underside in trainer yellow...

Your Mk V is gorgeous Joe. A beautiful tribute to a gallant American One critique that stands out to me is the placement of the control column. It appears to be canted to the left, but the ailerons do not match its' positioning. But a truly beautiful build in all respects.

Here is my latest update: wash applied to the interior surfaces

I also sanded down the thickness of the front and sides of the kits' seat.

here is the seat as molded

and after I thinned it down

I am now thinking about adding a PE harness to this kit seat and using it...

Joe - great job, super weathering, grats on the completion!  I liked it so much didn't even notice the slant of the control stick.

Noah - regarding extended wing tips, these where designed for flying at  higher altitudes and faster climb rates but at  the expense of maneuvrability in combat at “normal” altitudes.  Considering the floats already impeded performance I'd say no to them.  As always follow what the photos say, so if you can't find proof, use the regular wing.
As for the colour yellow on the underside of the floats, I've no idea.  Chances are back then, those working on the prototype were also scratching there heads after reading this:
http://www.rafweb.org/sqn_codes.htm

stik - coming along nicely.  One question about the interiors, but I thought only the cockpit area received the grey green paint while the rest was aluminum - or was this just the early marks?

On to my update...

Was never that much into pre-shading so tried another approach.  I mixed water with a grungy grey weathering powder, focusing mainly on detail running in the direction of airflow.

I mixed my own paint to represent BS 381 (1930) No.1 Sky Blue.   The formula called for white mixed with 4% yellow oxide and a hint of prussian blue.  Not exactly sure what yellow oxide looks like (google images ranged from normal yellow, deep yellow to ochre).  I used Tamiya flats for the first two while the prussian blue was from Andrea.  It didn't look quite right, so added some deep sky blue and finally some RLM 65 Hellblau to tone it down.
Too heavy with the airbrush as most of the preshading is gone.  Also will have to wait till daylight to see how I feel about the colour I mixed.

regards,
Jack