One Year War GB 2011-2012 !Extended time! 30sept 2012

Yeah... I did dip it into thinner before and soaked it in simple green many times to clean it out.  Ah well, may as well send away for the airhose for my really expensive AB I got at for 20 because the hose was missing...

Smeagoal nice you come back, hope you feel better now

To paint with brushes is not so dramatic if you paint with enamels,but if you use acrilycs you're 100% right 

heres my two recent 72 tanks ,one with acrilycs and one with enamels

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naturally the one painted with enamels are the first, the su-122... the stalin... need another copy to replace in future

Smeagol,

I had the same problem on my single action Badger 200, and mine turned out to be caused by paint thinner getting to the o-ring seal on the air valve.  I think the thinner partially dissolved the o-ring, causing the trigger to stick.  The root cause was me being careless while cleaning; I dunked the front end of the airbrush into a jar of thinner, not realizing that the thinner was flooding the valve.  The fix for this one was to replace the valve assembly.

The other possibility might be paint getting back to the trigger area.  This can happen if the nozzle tip isn't screwed on tight, the teflon(?) o-ring for the tip is broken or missing, or if you are careless like me and tilt the airbrush in such a way that the paint gets out of the cup or jar, and flows on the outside of the airbrush body into the trigger hole/slot.

If you can't find any paint in the trigger area, the air valve might have gone bad and will require replacement.

I have hit, yet another, snag.  The trigger on my AB is sticking, I tried cleaning it but I have no idea whats wrong.  Till I figure it out... eh. 

I really do not want to hand brush this beauty.

Thanx Dupes, waithing for more updates i'm surrounded too by airplanes kits, actually 3 on first workbench line and 4 on the second . Plus a 90% progress helicopter.

If will beat soon at least 3 of these, can add here the guntank

Got a lot of projects on the bench (and sub-bench), most of which are aircraft...I foresee an armor phase coming on here very shortly, though, so I should be able to wrap up the M61A5. Great builds, guys!

bsyamato

and here the family.... sorry for the dust

Wow...GREAT lineup!!!

few updates on the gogg

Backpack ready

just some tamiya putty works left and fter final painting seeìssion

disassembled my hguc guntank and glued some minor pieces, probably add into the group 

Smeagol,

My deepest sympathies go out to you and your family.  I know how you feel right now, as my mother passed away last March.  Hang in there and  take care of your mom, as well as yourself.

My condolences Smeagol.

Bad things to hear 

Smaeagol my condolescens too, to you and your family, take your time and be strong as you can, know about these thing unfortunately. 

My condolences to you, Smeagol. I think the group build is way down the list of things right now. Take of your mom especially, and make sure to take care of yourself as well.

I wont be getting any work done on my kit for at least another week or two.  My dad passed yesterday and I'm trying to take care of my mom and all else that goes with it...

That's friggen clever RealG. i gotta try that.

Real nice tips about dimo sanding things sorry for the low avaiblity of enamels here but markers seems working!

Front page updated 25 kits on the row!

Not much progress, but some nonetheless, on the HGUC Dom:

Here is my "secret weapon" to get at pesky hard to reach seams.  Dymo labeling tape stuck to the back of wet-n-dry sand paper make great mini sanding strips.  At the bottom of the photo, some other examples of home made sanding sticks can be seen.  The two in the center are Plastruct "T" section beams with tapered ends covered with wet-n-dry.  The one on the right is a trapezoidal section of sprue with wet-n-dry glued to one of the faces.

A sanding strip in action.  The tape should have been cut a little narrower, but it just cleared the wrist cuff, so was used as is.  Tweezers are used to get the approach angle just right, and to get my banana fingers out of the way.  The sanding strip is easy and cheap, so be sure to make new ones often to keep the sand paper edges nice and fresh.

The knee joints are the hardest parts to clean up on this kit.  I made a real mess of them, but we will see how bad they are after some primer.  The worst areas are concealed after assembly, so maybe it is not as bad as I think it is.

I hand painted the rockets using Gundam Marker "burned iron", decanted into a palette.  I first primed the parts with flat black enamel (also from a paint pen - Testors enamel) to give the acrylic paint something to "bite" onto.  I ran out of paint halfway through, so I ended up drybrushing the remaining areas in an attempt to stretch the last dregs of paint.  The inner surfaces of the engine bells were brush painted with Tamiya acrylic flat red.  I will apply a coat of glossy red, to prep the parts to take a red brown enamel wash.  This might seem unremarkable to most of you, but this the first time that I am hand painting rocket nozzles.

Doctor i used wipeout like a drug, never play xl but with the 3 chapter for the ps1 i get lots of satisfaction with prodigy chemical brothers and others soundtracks mixed to a too high speed LOL lots of times thiniked to scratchbuild (not the speed built i did) one or more veichles from the game but never did for my laziness

Smeagoal put some wip picture when you can  

Friend Real G thanx for the great word thanks to you to join here, few peoples can show the ancient gunpla kits you built in the 80 years LOL 

I joined lots (too much probably ) and was lucky to not found problems with others but just lots of fun ,specially in the ASW2 Japan and falkland GB great peoples posted with good spirit as here and also in other involved good thing will comes. Keep all on posting with fun

ps

I forget to talk about but who finished some kits feel free to post finished (or wip) kits pictures in the sci-fi channel/section , will write another collective post when the GB ends  

Bsyamato - If you will allow the Gog into the GB that would be great!  Even though it was over 50% done from before, the GB has motivated me into finishing it thanks to you. 

I worked on the Dom a bit last night.  The forearms have some tricky joints to fill, and the knees have a lot of seam lines that require some delicate sanding.  I'll post photos when I've got them licked, which is real soon.  I was also painting the skirt and leg rockets, but ran out of paint.  I was using the "Burnt Iron" from the Gundam Weathering Marker set, decanted into a palette and brush painted.  Does anyone know an equivalent paint that is similar?  I think it is acrylic, but it brushes on very well and dries with almost no brush marks.  I think it also buffs out a bit.  Unfortunately, the local hobby shops don't carry Gunze, which makes the Gundam Markers.  We only get Tamiya acrylic and rattle cans, and Testors Model Master enamels out here.

By the way, I have to say that this GB is one of the best behaved threads in the forum.  You guys are all great, constructive advice and information is passed around in a most civilized manner. and best of all, we seem to be having fun!  I get turned off when people shoot each other down when a "dumb" question is asked, or when a personality flame war erupts and consumes a thread.  I hope this doesn't sound like butt kissing, but thank you all, and epecially to Bsyamato! 

We now return you to your regular program.

Just gotta get these last few track links, yes, still working on then, there a pain in the butt!!!  They wont stay glued.  Then clean the airbrush and im ready to get going

I looked at this thread an hour before lunch, big mistake, i see Real G's dinner and now im starving.

Wipe out XL was one of my favorite playstation games. i especially loved the sound track to it. A neat subject that i always thought would make great looking models. I've wanted to try and build one using magnets to make it hover. I know its possible but I'm just not that clever.

Real G

I hope to get some time to work on the HGUC Dom and Gog this week.

i forget about! Real want to sign in the gogg? even if the gogg was started before your others good entries give you a bonus  

Real G

Bsyamato,

Sorry, only "meats" I worked on last night was this one:

At least teriyaki and miso soup are Japanese!    The fork was tough to use in the rice and soup bowls, so I had to use chopsticks after the photo was taken.  Okay so that was totally off topic, but I thought it would be fun to share! 

I hope to get some time to work on the HGUC Dom and Gogg this week.

boohh in some way you remind to me sushi!! theres no japanese restaurants

On my flickr account i have some japanese contact that often take pictures of jap food!!! The only pictures make me wish to eat them .And the above meat give the same wish

then updates some

During the "kitchen" detailing session , between the gogg dry times i scratched this on fly

mi first mind was about a racer veichle from the playstation game wipeout .. but after gluing pieces seems more a like space battleship yamato fighter something goes wrong...

then the gogg

the engines final details , right now i'm priming them

added trhusters details on the hip bottom

and the head fixing sequence

these parts now need only more details to add ,the rest of the gouf just need refines

I'm tempted to add another gunpla to the group but will see after .. actually too busy with too many kits

LOL

Bsyamato,

Sorry, only "meats" I worked on last night was this one:

At least teriyaki and miso soup are Japanese!    The fork was tough to use in the rice and soup bowls, so I had to use chopsticks after the photo was taken.  Okay so that was totally off topic, but I thought it would be fun to share! 

I hope to get some time to work on the HGUC Dom and Gog this week.

LOL thanx intead of warhammer i'm considering to move my acrilyc paints and some brush upper to the kitchen and resume my old miniatures skill and painting them when i can't go to the main workbench cavern, i have lots of unpainted miniatures in the stash. Also viewing some intresting new reaper miniatures to buy

Also i'm planning to scratchbuild a 120 mm elf warrior figure from warcraft 3 .... but having my time

Bsyamato,

Sadly Orkork's progress is EXACTLY THE SAME as the last WIP post.  :-(  I haven't touched Johnny at all. I'm loving all of these pics everyone's posting. From your awesome Gouf to the cool dioramas.  Great stuff everyone. 

Unfortunately, I've been sucked into the world of all things 28mm scale. Particuarly Warhammer Fantasy/40K. Also, I've been learning how to do some resin casting and sculpting so that's been taking up a lot of my time.  I still check this forum religously and have been following everyone's work. GREAT BUILDS HERE!!!

Thanx Real i put the boost on it to not fail LOL

What's about you and OrkOrk wips? wishing to see fresh gunpla meats

Last night resolved the gogg head joints!! this was the more hard step to resolve about it,  afternoon will post some pictures

Bsyamato - Great pics, and congratulations on finishing the Gouf!

Smeagol - Get some tweezers fast!  I can't build stuff without them, as my hands are like bunches of bananas when it comes to fine work.  I have three types I use all the time, flat tip, pointed tip, and fine angle pointed tip.  The flat tip one would work best on the smoke dischargers, as they will minimize the dreaded "tweezer launch".  (*PLIK!* is one sound I hate to hear when building stuff!)  The Magella EX kit definitely tests your eyesight and dexterity.  Don't give up!

Gluing 1/144th scale smoke grenade launchers onto a Magella attack tank without tweezers is what hell is going to be like.

Badlanguage you're not lomger for a great weathering, i just even use drybrush with enamels, the only thing to keep in mind is about correct colors

as expample take the gundam and the zaku I

i'm used in the past to use only the black to weather my models but after started to use correct shading with similar camouflage colors .

on the gundam only the black was used and on the zaku i corrected the tecnique using dark green on the base green ,dark blue with blue etc, also on the zaku have an highlight of white on the edges to accentuate the contrast