Airfix Group Build 2011-2012

According to the wonderful 'Airfix Tribute Forum', the Ford Model T was indeed 1956.  The 'BTK' Spitfire was first produced in 1955 (copied from an American 1/48 kit, all errors included!), and the very first Airfix kits (aside from the intial tractor) were 2 ships in 1953.  People often get them mixed with the Spitfire, thinking it was 1953, which is why in 2003 Airfix, by error, did a remake of the original.  Of course, that molded in pilot, and moulded in wheels, nothing like kits you'd have bought even a year or so later!

Here's the link for the Model T: http://airfixtributeforum.myfastforum.org/1956_Ford_Model_T_1910_1_32_about137.html

Being 1956, it was one of the first Airfix kits.

My Sopwith Camel is 1957, and the Widgeon 1959 (and if I build it, 1974 for the Gnat, based on a 1964 original mold)

Of the others, the Walrus is 1958, the Buffalo is youngster in 1972

How about, we put all the kit ages, with the kits we're doing?

The Camel has huge gaps between the lower wings and the fuselage, which I over-filled with green putty:

After a lot of wiping with nail varnish remover, and sanding, the results are like this:

The rear deck has been smoothed out, after my experiment with fishing line was a disaster!

Good luck with the Buffalo, I'm really interested in how it turns out.  The Walrus looks uber cool!

More progress on my Spitfire Mk I.  According to the Airfix Tribute Site, this kit was first released in 1979 and later modified to a snap together.  I actually found my instructions and decals and they're dated 1989, kit number 1071.  Decals look pretty good, but the serial looks too big and the Medium Sea Grey codes look too dark; I'll stick with my original plan with the Aeromaster decals.

Anyway, seams were all cleaned over the weekend and the underside was painted Sky (Humbrol 90). 

After a day I started the uppersurfaces, Dark Earth first (Humbrol 29).  I decided to stay old school and brush paint the camo. The picture is after the first coat.

Two additional coats later, I started the Dark Green (Humbrol 116).  That only took 2 coats as it goes on much better than the Dark Earth for some reason.

It'll now get a couple of days to fully cure.  After that I'll coat it in Future.  I'll start the wheels, prop and canopy while all that is going on.

Tim

I'll be looking forward to hopping in on this GB. I'm using a Airfix on the Spitfire GB, but want to do another one for this GB, maybe the Pe2 its been awhile since Ive done a ruskie. I've been eyeing the PBY5 too......Let me get my Zero trainer a little further along and I'm in.

Good looking Spit, Tim.  I've not used Humbrol, but their dark brown looks like a good shade.  The MM variation always looks like it tends toward an olive.

Humbrol must brush pretty well.  Me, I can't paint anything without an airbrush and have it look decent.   Even then, sometimes. . . 

Nice work.

Centhot

People often get them mixed with the Spitfire, thinking it was 1953, which is why in 2003 Airfix, by error, did a remake of the original.  Of course, that molded in pilot, and moulded in wheels, nothing like kits you'd have bought even a year or so later!

Actually, the 2003 "50th Anniversary" Spitfire kit was the 1979 tooling issued in blue plastic with the iconic "BT-K" decals. The original tools had long since been lost or destroyed

Yes, that's right, and the 1979 molding, was nothing like the 1955 molding - some years back this was extensively discussed on the various forums.  The 1959 molding (of the Mk. IX) used, so legend has it, the same mold base as the 1955 mold, at least, that's what was discussed back in 2003, meaning it had been changed forever.  Even if this is not the case, the mold isn't extant anymore.

If you can find a DH.Comet (racer) kit, or the Gloster Gladiator kit, you'll find the same style of closed over cockpit, with molded in pilot.  The Aurora kit it was based on was 1/48 scale, and neatly pantographed down to 1/72 scale.  One 'feature' of the kit was molded in wheels, something which I think wasn't copied.  Anyway, this website I found sometime back is an invaluable source of information:

http://www.sworld.com.au/steven/models/spitfire/

checkmateking02

Good looking Spit, Tim.  I've not used Humbrol, but their dark brown looks like a good shade.  The MM variation always looks like it tends toward an olive.

Humbrol must brush pretty well.  Me, I can't paint anything without an airbrush and have it look decent.   Even then, sometimes. . . 

Nice work.

Thanks CMK02,  MM RAF paints are not the right shades/colors.  I base that on the opinions of folks over in England who have seen real subjects in original paints, as well as my own assessment after a visit there.  The Brits use better matches from White Ensign Models, but I can get Humbrol easily and haven't found an easy source here in the US for WEM paints. 

Brush painting is actually very easy.  Patience is your partner.  Humbrol enamels use a very, very fine pigment.  Just like with airbrushing, hand brushing needs to be done with thin layers.  I thin with MM airbrush thinner.  I put a few drops of thinner in an artist's mixing pallet, next to it I put a drop or two of Humbrol paint (after stirring it very well to ensure a good mix).  I dip my brush in the thinner, then in the paint.  I make sure the paint is a smooth consistency (yeah, this is a "feel" thing that takes practice) and then brush it on the model in smooth strokes.  No going over already painted areas as it'll disolve the first layer and leave brush marks.  I work quickly and then give it a day to cure.  Typically 2-3 layers are required for each color; always lightest to darkest.  The clear coat of Future/Klear evens out the tones.

I've done a number of Spits and Hurris this way, even though I still use my airbrush for wide-area stuff like undersides and single color uppers.  The Dark Green usually goes on better (smoother) over an airbrushed undercoat of Dark Earth (or Ocean Grey) but if I have to touch up the appearance is not quite right.  The end result is good, but obviously different next to a similar model done with airbrush only, but it's a subtle differrence.

Tim

Thanks for the information, Tim.  In the past, I've used MM for RAF BoB fighters, and was surprised to see the color difference with WEM paints.  I haven't used Humbrol for probably ten years.  Once opened, they don't seem to have a very long shelf life--not as long as MM or Floquil, some of which I've had for ten or fifteen years.  Do you have any ideas for increasing Humbrol shelf life?  I'd be interested if you do.

As for Colourcoats, I've found MidTenn Hobbies to be a good source.  They usually have a good stock, lot of variety, and shipping is fast, service is good.

http://store.midtennhobbies.com/raf--fleet-air-arm-c251.aspx

WEM's dark earth looks very similar to the Humbrol in your photos.  I've been using WEM's paint on my Spitfire group builds.  They come in the same kinds of tins as Humbrol, but I haven't had them long enough to know how their shelf life will be. I decanted them into glass paint bottles the size of Floquil RR paint, and used their Navy colours on a 1:700 USS Lexington, but I haven't needed that paint since.

I'll give them a try, thanks.  As to shelf life, I had that problem back in the '80's when I first started using Humbrol.  I'd open it and next time I needed the color it was useless so I quit using them fairly quickly; availability was also a problem.  I'm finding today that if I seal them real tight they are lasting longer than then; plus I'm using them faster as most of my builds are RAF.  My current tin of Dark Earth is about 2 years old (I use a label maker to put the date I open a tin/jar).  I'm starting to think that thorough mixing is a positive thing for shelf life as well as application.  Also a few drops of high quality thinner each time I open it may not be a bad thing -- I did that on some Dark Green and it's still good at the 3 year point.

I've made a commitment to acrylic for the long term.  Oil-based paints and the solvents are probably not a good thing given how much time I'm spending on this hobby.  I plan to retire in a couple of years and my modelling will be near full time then...  So as each tin of Humbrol is used I'm finding a replacement.  Tamiya is easy to come by but I have to mix to get the right shades...not a bad thing as I like to experiment but I think I may waste it -- I'm looking forward to trying some WEM paints.

Tim

Thank you Centhot tor the history information-I had no idea, very interesting.

Also thanks to  you others kind and informative information.

At this point I must confess to a grievous error on my part

I thought this model T was a 1/72 scale but the Airfix histories call it & my measurements concur it's a 1/32

reguardless I added some more work

Greenshirt

Anyway, seams were all cleaned over the weekend and the underside was painted Sky (Humbrol 90). 

After a day I started the uppersurfaces, Dark Earth first (Humbrol 29).  I decided to stay old school and brush paint the camo. The picture is after the first coat.

Two additional coats later, I started the Dark Green (Humbrol 116).  That only took 2 coats as it goes on much better than the Dark Earth for some reason.

Tim

I've already got 116, not sure if i will get 163, or which one too use? will you do my a favour? would you be able to paint a splodge of each on some scrap sprue and post a pic here? that will help me decide.

the real red baron

I've already got 116, not sure if i will get 163, or which one too use? will you do my a favour? would you be able to paint a splodge of each on some scrap sprue and post a pic here? that will help me decide.

Always a danger trying to upload paint swatches.  It's hard to control cameras, monitors, etc.  So the best I can do is take my color card and lay it across my paint standard for RAF Dark Green.  I purchased the card from Iliad Designs, it's the RAF Day Fighter Scheme for Northern Europe.  Warnings aside:

The picture was taken without flash, indirect sunlight.  While the Tamiya XF61 appears closest to the standard, it looks too dark on a 72nd model to me, after having seen the real thing in London.  Pollyscale is close but still a bit too dark for my tastes, but Hu116 looks closer than Hu163.  As I posted earlier, I use Hu163 as a variation, and frankly I do the same with both Pollyscale and Tamiya as well sometimes, when the mood hits me.  I have not tried the new Tamiya Dark Green, XF81, but need to.

Hope this helps.

Tim

Coming along nicely, Duster; is what you'd call a "flivver?"  Very sharp.

Yup,DUSTER ain't playin'!

Is it the cat's meow or the cat's pajamas?

Mikey--

I'm working on the Airfix 1/350 HMS Trafalgar for the Red Storm Rising Group Build. The hull is together but no paint has gone on anything and no fiddly bits have been attached. Is this too far along to fit your build, or may I come aboard?

Thanks Tim, im gonna go with 163, the satin finish isn't too shiny right? because i usually paint with matt.

RRB,

Technically, a satin finish is correct for RAF aircraft.  The "Type S" in "Sky Type S" means a smooth finish, after Spring 1940 all paints were supposed to be smooth except for some versions of Night (black); they were technically "Dark Green Type S", "Dark Earth Type S", etc.  Some photos actually show the vertical fin flash reflecting off the horizontal stabilizer.  So a totally flat surface sheen is not accurate for a model of an RAF bird.  Exceptions exist, such as Malta, and some desert aircraft.  And some during the push to Berlin after D-Day.  But during the BoB the crews tried to keep the aircraft clean because a few MPH could mean the difference during combat. 

So to make it look accurate I put a clear coat of Future/Klear on it that is mixed 50/50 with a flat or matte acrylic clear coat; I get mine from Testors/MM, but Gunze, Pollyscale and others make it as well.  Experiment to find what looks best to your eye.

Tim

Ok, I'll buy some 163 when I'm next at my LHS, I'm planning a huge raid soon

Airfix 1:72 HE-111
Airfix 1:72 AR-196
Airfix 1:72 BV-141
Airfix 1:72 FW-189 + a whole heap of paint etc.

And more if they have them in stock!

if we take the finihsed pics of our spitfire & hurricane in similar clour/shaded back grounds, i may be able to 'warp' them together to make a battle of britian fighters picture?

you hand painted you spirfire, right? I'm going to airbrushing mine, so this will be my second airbrushed model.

 

Good progres here like the little really old car 

the real red baron

Ok, I'll buy some 163 when I'm next at my LHS, I'm planning a huge raid soon 

Airfix 1:72 HE-111
Airfix 1:72 AR-196
Airfix 1:72 BV-141
Airfix 1:72 FW-189 + a whole heap of paint etc.

..

Nice choice on these subject Real, if you want to find other good low pricekits try even some other brand with better quality offers, like academy and.. and  

our LHS dont stock much Academy stuff. they mainly focus on Airfix's new red box type kit, have you recently made one of thier red boxed its?? they are quite satifying, airfix are getting better, I'm always sending them emails to make new planes, and belive it or not they are listening to me!! i asked for a 1:72 p-40b flying tiger kit and that is what they have just released!

i just asked for a HE-162, BA-349, ME-262 & ME-163, all in 1:72. I wonder if they will go ahead with the idea?

LOL you're a lucky p-40 maniac

yes , latest kit are another planet between the most kits present in the gb. Keep onen eyes on the oldest kits, i recently buy four airfix but i payed all for a total of 14 € , just as a single good revell hasegawa 1/72 kit. 

the real red baron

i just asked for a HE-162, BA-349, ME-262 & ME-163, all in 1:72. I wonder if they will go ahead with the idea?

Airfix already did the 262 and 163 in 1/72 years ago, but they may not be currently in production. The He-162 is well represented in 1/72 by Revell, Dragon (this is a little gem of a kit), Hobby Boss.

This is my official request to be a part of this GB. I'll be done with my Spit from its GB this weekend, major work on my Zero Trainer is stalling as I am looking for the right Orange and I have narrowed it down to these two Airfix kits:

FW190A-7:

Or this (and I'm leaning really heavily this way):

Think these decals will hold up? LOL:

i wouldn't buy a old airfix kit, I've built a few before, they as in airfix are re-creating some of thier older kits and making new ones, its hard to come by anything that gives you what you pay for, the new airfix kits are cheap and quite satisfying in their quality, a little more interior detail would be nice though.

my LHS really only stock airfix and revell, and rarely some other brands.

where i live isn't really the best place to find some of the more unique models. but i did pick up a nice little gem at my LHS a while back, (revell 1:72 Blohm Und Voss BVP-194).

the real red baron

i wouldn't buy a old airfix kit, I've built a few before, they as in airfix are re-creating some of thier older kits and making new ones, its hard to come by anything that gives you what you pay for, the new airfix kits are cheap and quite satisfying in their quality, a little more interior detail would be nice though.

??

the real red baron

Airfix 1:72 HE-111
Airfix 1:72 AR-196
Airfix 1:72 BV-141
Airfix 1:72 FW-189 + a whole heap of paint etc.

Just noticed that y'all are from Australia.

We're posting from all over the world. That's badass.

I'm in the Panhandle (NW Florida).

Put the Fuselage and the wings together on the HS 129. No worries, close seam. Don't care for the raised panel lines and a practical deletion of interior detail but this kit has got to be old as balls. It's been fun so far...