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Blitzkrieg in the West (France 1940) Sept. 18 2011 - March 1 2012

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  • Member since
    July 2008
  • From: South of france
Posted by Vit13 on Wednesday, October 12, 2011 11:21 AM

Propeller correct tread char is for tank Bow Down

 

Jc

 

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Piscataway, NJ!
Posted by wing_nut on Wednesday, October 12, 2011 11:29 AM

Then that means I like my steaks "tanked" on the grill.  Hmmm?  Steak?  Gotta run tot he marketWhistling

Marc  

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Wednesday, October 12, 2011 1:11 PM

Nice work so far Stik on the weathering. Looking good! Yes

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Wednesday, October 12, 2011 3:40 PM

Embarrassed Awwww shucks guys... thanks...

This morning I applied the second stage, a thinner coat of Raw Sienna airbrushed over the Raw Umber. I really like the final color it gace. Reminds me of the way my HMMV would look in the Balkans.

Ok now, since this is the first time of trying this method of weathering I am considering two different final steps: 1) a light drybrushing of steel on the tracks, then a light overall dusting with pigments, or 2) one more lighter airbrushed dust coat. Or I will just leave it as is... What say all of you?

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Carmel, IN
Posted by deafpanzer on Wednesday, October 12, 2011 3:43 PM

Stik-  Great work on that little machine! Yes  I would only do the light drybrushing of steel on the tracks.  No need to do another coat of dust... it looks good to me unless you want it real dirty.  Instead of drybrushing, I use #2 pencil... worked great for me. 

Andy

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Allentown, PA
Posted by BaBill212 on Wednesday, October 12, 2011 4:03 PM

Looking real good Stik,,,,  I agree with Andy,,  they have a nice dusty look.

Here is another method to use with a #2 or artists graphite pencil.    Rub the pencil (graphite end of course) onto a piece of paper,,,   almost like an artist applies pastel or chalk,   like a 3" square area. Take a tiny, clean makeup sponge (I use these sponges for lots of applications...  they are versatile and very inexpensive).    Rub the sponge onto the graphite and then apply to the tracks.    It is a, sort of, dry brush / sponge method. 

And thanks for the clarification on the Humbrol........

Enjoy the ride!

 

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Allentown, PA
Posted by BaBill212 on Wednesday, October 12, 2011 4:11 PM

Bob,,    sorry to hear about your defunct compressor...   good luck with the replacement.          Have fun at the college visit,,,  don't do any keg-stands!

Enjoy the ride!

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Wednesday, October 12, 2011 4:43 PM

So two votes for as is with some graphite highlights added. That is something I have never tried before. If it works like that, this finishing manner is ridiculously simple and speedy for doing indy and link and length tracks. But it may not be suitable for desert vehicles....Hmm

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: beacon falls , Ct.
Posted by treadwell on Wednesday, October 12, 2011 6:36 PM

tread @ Stickpusher : )

your UE is looking really great... everyone is talking about a light touch of graphite, and I agree, but I also think a nice light wash of black or dark brown ( Van D y k e  brown) would make the track links look more individualized and make them stand out a bit... not a criticism, just a matter of personal tasteSmile

great job man Yes... looks like you will be the first to finish and we still have no badge to award !

treadCool

   

 

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Piscataway, NJ!
Posted by wing_nut on Wednesday, October 12, 2011 6:53 PM

Eric, real nice work on the Hotchkiss so far.

 

Stik, the UE looks great.  I had that kit in my hand but saw the Bi bis underneath and had to go for it.  I agree with both the graphite and most definitely a good wash too.

Marc  

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: beacon falls , Ct.
Posted by treadwell on Wednesday, October 12, 2011 6:58 PM

post withdrawn

 

   

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Wednesday, October 12, 2011 7:03 PM

I have the B1 Bis in my stash. Had it before the UE. I just wanted a Tamiya quick build to recharge my model building batteries.

I think I will have to go with the graphite highlights. Wink

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: beacon falls , Ct.
Posted by treadwell on Wednesday, October 12, 2011 8:03 PM

modeler #1.... where are you man?

treadCool

 

   

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Wednesday, October 12, 2011 10:45 PM

treadwell

tread @ Stickpusher : )

your UE is looking really great... everyone is talking about a light touch of graphite, and I agree, but I also think a nice light wash of black or dark brown ( Van D y k e  brown) would make the track links look more individualized and make them stand out a bit... not a criticism, just a matter of personal tasteSmile

great job man Yes... looks like you will be the first to finish and we still have no badge to award !

treadCool

Badges??? We don't need no stinking badges!

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    July 2008
  • From: Vancouver, the "wet coast"
Posted by castelnuovo on Wednesday, October 12, 2011 11:11 PM

Some progress on my Krupp...

The all German Gray colour is kinda boring. Any ideas for a bit of weathering? Nothing drastic, it is early in the war, the roads are good and not much fighting in France anyway Whistling

Cheers...

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Rain USA, Vancouver WA
Posted by tigerman on Thursday, October 13, 2011 12:05 AM

Vit13

Propeller correct tread char is for tank Bow Down

 

Jc

 

Embarrassed Can you say that I'm tired and stupid at the same time. 

Yes, we need to unleash the badges soon, so Stik can pick her up. (Nice and I agree on a little highlights of steel.

   http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/wing_nut_5o/PANZERJAGERGB.jpg

 Eric 

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: beacon falls , Ct.
Posted by treadwell on Thursday, October 13, 2011 8:18 AM

tread @ castelnuovo  :  )

your Krupp is coming along beautifully ! 

Instead of thinking that the all gray color scheme as boring, think of it as authentic. Doesn't that sound better?

On all gray, I usually use the very darkest pinwashes I can get away with... make every seam, doorhandle, and sculpted line pop out.

treadCool

   

 

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Piscataway, NJ!
Posted by wing_nut on Thursday, October 13, 2011 9:03 AM

FOr those doing the Char Bi bis I stumbled onto this site. Figured I would post the link just in case you hadn't seen it.

http://www.military-kits.com/sections.php?op=printpage&artid=92

Marc  

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Thursday, October 13, 2011 9:23 AM

SP: Sharp work on the carrier, I'll have to agree a little metallic highlights and a light brown wash on the threads would make the detail pop even more.

Castelnuovo: Looks good, yes a little wash and drybrushing should break up the grey.

Well, I did promise photos....

The unveiling of a diabolical new weapon by the Wehrmacht - covering their foes with bubble gum!!! Second time I've used Silly Putty as a mask and so far very happy with what I've seen.

Camo and decals done. I did the black demarcation lines with a Sharpie felt tip marker. Rather stark but I think a few filters should tone them down.

Slapped a little mud on her last night. I borrowed this idea from Steve Zaloga- terra cotta texture paint with a little cheap craft store paint added for colour and a little static grass for 'turf' texture. Sorry for the blurry nature of the photo- I think you can make out most of what's going on . Going to add more mud streaked up the sides and then add the filters this weekend hopefully.

Bought this small diorama for the tankand the 20mm German AT gun and crew. Ordered it off Ebay straight from MiniArt in Ukraine.

Cliff

 

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    July 2008
  • From: South of france
Posted by Vit13 on Thursday, October 13, 2011 11:23 AM

tigerman

 

 Vit13:

 

Propeller correct tread char is for tank Bow Down

 

Jc

 

 

 

Embarrassed Can you say that I'm tired and stupid at the same time. 

Yes, we need to unleash the badges soon, so Stik can pick her up. (Nice and I agree on a little highlights of steel.

Eric ,

why you said that?

Maybe we misunderstood between you and me . Embarrassed

My apologizes .

Jc

 

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Piscataway, NJ!
Posted by wing_nut on Thursday, October 13, 2011 12:09 PM

Jc I don't think you need to worry about Eric.  Too nice of a guy to have given you any crap.  If I were to guess... he means it was a long day and that's one of those things he should've known.  In fairness to Eric though... I must say I didn't realize that either until I stated doing some searching on the B1 bis.  Starting see the word "char" in front of lots of tanks.  I finally figured it out.  I guess I was tired of being stupid Whistling

Marc  

  • Member since
    July 2008
  • From: Vancouver, the "wet coast"
Posted by castelnuovo on Thursday, October 13, 2011 12:32 PM

treadwell

Instead of thinking that the all gray color scheme as boring, think of it as authentic. Doesn't that sound better?

Yeah, that sounds much betterToastSmile Thanks...

  • Member since
    July 2008
  • From: Vancouver, the "wet coast"
Posted by castelnuovo on Thursday, October 13, 2011 12:35 PM

Gamera

Castelnuovo: Looks good, yes a little wash and drybrushing should break up the grey.

Thanks gamera. What colour shoud I use for drybrushing?

Cheers...

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Thursday, October 13, 2011 12:54 PM

Castelnuovo, if you want to add some diversity to your scheme, you can apply the 2-tone scheme of 2/3 panzer gray and 1/3 dark brown to your Protze. The scheme was ordered for all vehicles not just tanks. Wink

Gamera, sharp work on the puzzle-piece hard-edged scheme! Yes

Stik, agree with the others on adding a little extra dimension to the track wear. I would also suggest (given how dirty/dusty you have the suspension) perhaps a light dust treatment to more of the hull around the glacis? Given how small these vehicles were and how low to the ground, I imagine they would get the short end of the stick on any kind of road march.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Thursday, October 13, 2011 2:12 PM

Bill: Thanks!

CN: I'd dry-brush with a grey just a tad lighter than the grey you painted her. When that's dry I'd dry-brush again with a slightly even lighter grey than the first time going very lightly hitting just the high points.

Of course I think I'm the only person that still dry-brushing models- it seems to be out of favour right now so you might want to wait for other opinions.

Cliff

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Thursday, October 13, 2011 2:18 PM

Gamera

Bill: Thanks!

CN: I'd dry-brush with a grey just a tad lighter than the grey you painted her. When that's dry I'd dry-brush again with a slightly even lighter grey than the first time going very lightly hitting just the high points.

Of course I think I'm the only person that still dry-brushing models- it seems to be out of favour right now so you might want to wait for other opinions.

Cliff

I still drybrush Cliff Wink I did on my UE before the wash and lower hull dusting. I gave the perfect effect on a single color scheme. Thats where dry brushing is almost required.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Thursday, October 13, 2011 3:15 PM

Like the 1940 Battle of France, this one is done quickly. I am calling my UE Carrier finis! Going on what was suggested here, I applied some graphite highlights to the track road contact surfaces. I was unable to get a make up sponge (with three daughtersand a wife living here you would think I could get a new clean one,but NO!) So firstI tried a Micro brush... not very effective,then I went with K.I.S.S.- runing the pencil directly across the tracks. And I gave a very light dusting of pigment on the central lower front plate. And I put in the crew... boy those poor guys were cramped in on the real beast.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Thursday, October 13, 2011 3:39 PM

Nicely done Stik! Congrats on being the first across the finish line. Yes

  • Member since
    September 2011
  • From: San Diego, California
Posted by GeneralDodonna on Thursday, October 13, 2011 3:43 PM

That UE is a thing of beauty stikpusher! congrats! I really like how it looks real dusty. Really looks like it hit those dirt roads hard.

-Will

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Thursday, October 13, 2011 4:15 PM

Thank you guys! For my weathering inspiration I remembered this single day patrol in the Balkans. It was a hot July day, no rain, but cross a few streams and run down a few dirt trails and...

It was clean when we left the base camp...:drive:

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

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