Carl, sorry to hear about your bad luck with the suspension...but have no doubts about your ability to find a workable solution!

That should be an easy fix for Carl. Some quick work with a pin vise drill and a small piece of metal rod and bam, back in business. I have fixed enough brokenb aircraft alnding gear and helicopter rotor blades to ahve gottne good at that technique.

I agree with Stik,,,    Carl,    you'll have that lil guy patched up in no time,,  I have NO doubts.

Scott,,,     hope you are on the mend soon.........

I will confess to underestimating the amount of time required to complete all the PE work for the fender details called out in Step 11 so it took me longer to get this one done than the opposite side. Part of that was due to the fact that several of the parts had to be modified or adjusted for the PE to work and part of that was just the number of tools/parts involved and everything that had to be installed.

I originally had planned to install the holders for the spare tracks as separate pieces but I quickly abandoned that idea after realizing that trying to get all 8 of them perfectly aligned would be nearly impossible to achieve. I selected 4 of the "Magic" links (short guide horn variety) and cleaned them up, removing the two ejector marks on either side of the horn and removing slight flash inside the horn itself. I used a #76 pin vise to drill out the front ends to simulate the openings for the track pins and added the pins themselves to the rear end using small lengths of styrene rod glued in place with liquid glue. The PE holders were added and some care is needed when bending the complex "Z" shape, so the lighted magnifier got a work out along with some gymnastics with needle nosed pliers, finger nails, and tweezers!

I installed the antenna rest tray to the hull side and elected to pose the antenna in the down/stowed position since the inside of the tray had visible ejector marks that were hidden by the antenna and would have been a major pain to deal with otherwise. I held off adding the base, W15, that installs to the fender as I wanted to get the tool layout right first before committing to that.

Repeating the process used on the other fender in terms of the included-diagram template, I started at the rear of the fender and worked my way forward installing the clamps as needed. The idler tensioning wrenches had to be shaved down slightly to fit properly in their holders. I also had to grind down the small lip protrusion on the pre-formed brass shovel bracket on order for it to fit correctly in the space available. I used Griffon tool clamps for the crank starter (the instructions say to install 2 but only 1 was used on the C), the shovel, and the axe. The PE retaining clamp for the axe blade fell apart during the bending process so I used the Plan B axe and removed its molded on tool clamps as a stand-in.

I then went back and installed W15 to complete the step, removing the locater pin from the base and using liquid glue to get it solid to the fender. Once set, I used a pair of locking tweezers to gently lift the end of the antenna tray until it sat level with the tops of the base, applied some liquid glue and held it until it set to round things out.

Bill, I was building the PE engine grille louvres today and I swear they are backwards in the instructions.  I was careful to use the correct ones and built them according to the instructions but when I try to fit them they don't.  I look at yours on your blog and they look opposite of yours.  Even the kit molded louvres are also backwards.  Were your instructions wrong or is it just me?

deafpanzer

Shellback:

I  actually had all of the bogies glued on .............then noticed the rear two on the port side "floating " . So i removed them (cut off ) . I'll fix it tomorrow .

 

Carl, knowing your talent, it will be an easy fix for you my friend!

Andy , Stik , WBill and BABill thanks for the comments guys ! Andy , good one buddy , i like that kind of humor.

I have the little Panzer fixed and i am weathering it now . Pics latter tonight .

Hi Rob !   nice going on the Somua :  )  the smaller petite hull hooks make a world of difference tail light looking good also... may have missed it, but I don't think my B1 has a tail light ?  how odd....

tread

P.S..... love them sharpies...... : )

Hi Shelldude your model is great, but you have a '67 El Camino ?.......sitting on a freekin gold mine !

tread

P.S. glad you had a nice time in the wilderness with the family

satch_ip

Bill, I was building the PE engine grille louvres today and I swear they are backwards in the instructions.  I was careful to use the correct ones and built them according to the instructions but when I try to fit them they don't.  I look at yours on your blog and they look opposite of yours.  Even the kit molded louvres are also backwards.  Were your instructions wrong or is it just me?

Satch,

Without seeing your instructions and what you've come up with, it's hard to say. Here's what my instructions showed...and there's only one way you can assemble things for them to fit correctly into the hull. Parts MB8 are designed to fit into the little dog-leg support molded into the upper hull, so when you construct the grills you have to do them as mirror opposites of each other.

Are you sure you're looking at the right kit molded parts for comparison? (I have to ask because the kit includes 2 sets...one set on the W sprue (29/30) and one on the E sprue (32/33)...and the E sprue parts are not for this variant and are legacy parts from earlier kits).

The only other thing I can think of is that you have to be very careful of the "Right" and "Left" designations in the instructions...they refer to the sides when the upper hull is upside down...if you instead assumed that meant when it was right side up, you would have ended up assembling them backwards. The good news is that all you "should' have to do is swap around the end parts to the other ends to correct the problem.

wBill,,     great installment. Your reads are always informative. Nice work on the extra links, PE and antenna config.....  Always a pleasure observing your posts,,,  !

Carl,,   looking forward to the pz-fix pics,,, 

I've been jumping around a bit with the pz command build.     While I was waiting for the Verlinden interior detail set I began moving into sub-assemblies.

I started with some work on the Friuls...    a dip into Blacken-It.   I like to let the tracks "blacken" in stages.....  first just a short dunk,   remove, pad dry and let air dry. I dip them again and follow the same pattern.   It blackens them in spurts and leaves a hint of oxidation / rust in some of the corners and low lying areas. I like to add a thin black brown wash afterwards...     the wash will wait until shortly before I am ready to mount them though. 

Bouncing around in sub-assembly-land,,,,   I put together the rear deck.

A lot of hatches which could be posed open...  (I was SO tempted).......       a little PE screening,,, nothing over the top.         

There was a small gap between the upper deck plate and the sides. I stretched some sprue and placed.

Cut the ends off,,,  add a little liquid glue and let dry.  

Then I use a curved / point detail tip with a small wood burner (a dremel / drill speed control to adjusti the heat)    melting the styrene stretched sprue into a weld seam.

While the weld seam looks a bit bulbous, a little micro-filing and a bit more liquid glue blends and reduces the effect.

While it's not much,,,  it's progress....    and     I am looking forward to starting on the Verlinden interior set -

I also want to thank a number of you for pointing me in the right direction on this set.....  

Hope to have some more informative build pics soon.     Thanks and as always,,, all comments welcome.

Bill

Bill , alas another Pz. 1 build . Your method of weld seams comes out spot on .

treadwell

Hi Shelldude your model is great, but you have a '67 El Camino ?.......sitting on a freekin gold mine !

tread

P.S. glad you had a nice time in the wilderness with the family

 

I'll pm you a pic Treadplate

Ok , i have it fixed and some weathering done ...................

LOL!  That was a great save...

Bill great work on the weld-beads.

Bill and Carl, continued great work on the builds.

Andy, your funny dude.

Painted , weathered and mounted the rubber band tracks .They look pretty good IMO .

Shellback: Anyone know what the pipe is ? I thought it could be an auxilury engine exhaust but the end is capped .

I´m working on the same chassis, and can´t find any reference, I'm very curious about it. I´ts just over the rear part of the gear box...

Bill, nice work on the tracks and weld seam detail!

Carl, as expected a perfect salvage job on the suspension. The tracks look good as well and the weathering ties them nicely in with the suspension and hull.

Kveldulfr, I had answered Carl/Shellback's question earlier but stuff often gets lost in the shuffle if the thread is moving at a fast clip. The hose is a rubber air exhaust vent for the final drive brake housing and should be drilled out at the end that rests under the antenna tray. HTH!

Tonal variances look good Carl.

Hi again:

Thanks Wbill76, I read your post after writing my own...

I has some hours with the model and my sources, the best I has found is: http://www.toadmanstankpictures.com and I can say that overall is a good model, but has some lack of details and some very gross inaccuracies.

The worst of the kit is that the plastic is too soft and warped in some parts, and the fitting of the upper hull is awful, and the big circular hatch that cover the mounting of the turret is not provided, but the good side is that it´s easy made it from scratch.

The kit:

The bonus Dragon parts and PE

Now some details

The engine cover, the cooling air intake has not the correct shape of the louvres and are closed at the bottom, but it´s hidden by a piece of armor, so it´s ok. The bad thing is the wide of the lines of the hatches, may be I´ll cover them and rescribe them.

Details of the upper hull, the parts are too thick.

I´m done for now, tonight I´ll post the photos of the test fiting

WBill thanks for answering the question about the brake vent X2 . Question , since the corrugated area is rubber i was thinking it could be painted to look like a blackish rubber ? Or i suppose it would be painted the same color as the rest of the vehicle ?

The only other thing I can think of is that you have to be very careful of the "Right" and "Left" designations in the instructions...they refer to the sides when the upper hull is upside down...if you instead assumed that meant when it was right side up, you would have ended up assembling them backwards. The good news is that all you "should' have to do is swap around the end parts to the other ends to correct the problem.

What kind of moronic thinking is that?   That's the problem.  Oh well, I gave up on the PE griles, mostly because I hate PE.  Good thing your blog shows the wheel assemblies on the kit or else those would be backwards too!

Thanks, Bill.

PS, Can you make it to Austin this weekend for the AMPS show?

You could go either way. Personally, I always paint it blackish rubber to add a little visual contrast.

No problem Satch, glad you got it figured out! I hear you about PE...and this kit has a lot of it, so you definitely have to pick your battles. Sorry I can't make it to Austin for the AMPS show, I have a lot to do this weekend before my MBA classes start next Thursday.

satch_ip

The only other thing I can think of is that you have to be very careful of the "Right" and "Left" designations in the instructions...they refer to the sides when the upper hull is upside down...if you instead assumed that meant when it was right side up, you would have ended up assembling them backwards. The good news is that all you "should' have to do is swap around the end parts to the other ends to correct the problem.

What kind of moronic thinking is that?   That's the problem.  Oh well, I gave up on the PE griles, mostly because I hate PE.  Good thing your blog shows the wheel assemblies on the kit or else those would be backwards too!

Thanks, Bill.

PS, Can you make it to Austin this weekend for the AMPS show?

 

That's got to be the most bass-***ward instructions I've heard of in some time, gee friggin' whizz...

Shellback: Love the dirt and mud, I tend to either over or underdo it- looks perfect to  me.

Kveldulfr: Looks like you've got some work ahead of you- still despite the work looks like she'll build up into a very nice model.

[View:/themes/fsm/utility/:550:0][View:/themes/fsm/utility/:550:0]what's up guys! some amazing work being done here! really enjoying running through all of these posts!  so it was my bday recently and i'm finally able to join in with a pz I.  Not my first choice but the best i could ask out of my wife and daughters.  just getting started with the wheels and some of the interior stuff.  it's gonna be pretty much out the box except for a few extras of pe and possibly a few additions to the interior.  the kit looks great and besides some blatant misques in the instructions is behaving very well so far... sorry bout the pic quality.  i uploaded the wrong ones.   next post will be better.  any suggestions are appreciated  [View:/themes/fsm/utility/:550:0]

Carl,,   much appreciated ! I knew you would save that suspension,, nicely done.    I also agree, you can actually make a set of rubberband tracks look very good (which you have proven),,, drive sprockets turned out  nicely too..    the overall paint job is looking sweet.         Oh, and yes, another pz I.... they are everywhere! (the lil buggers)

Eric,,   thanks,,,  they take some time but they typically work out fine

wBill,,    much obliged,,  I liked your follow up details as well...  you certainly do detail the details (great info).  Good luck with the upcoming class.

Kv,,     that is a whole lotta stuff going on there,,,,    will be looking for updates

Malone,,     another pz I  !!    I luv it !     Some great looking interior detail additions...  

Made some additional progress today. There were some small details left over from Step 11 that I needed to add. The instructions kind of sneak by the two small lifting hooks on the rear hull area as they show them, parts W34, as already installed and also incorrectly only show one installed on the right side (you need two and the kit includes both). Those were added along with the tiny PE slide covers for the keyholes on the engine access hatches and the brake access hatches. I also went ahead and added the retaining "dog chain" PE parts for the rear tow pin and the front hull tow pins.

That led me onward to Step 12 which begins work on the turret and deals exclusively with the commander's cupola. Options are provided to pose the shutters either open or closed and I decided on open. I will also pose the hatches in the open position as the interior detail provided in the kit parts is too good to not show. I'm also planning to have one of the turret side hatches open so this should provide a good compliment to that as well.

I left out the clear vision block parts for now as the way the cupola assembles makes it very easy to slip them in later provided I leave the cupola in two parts. That should make it easy to paint both the interior and exterior portions without having to mask any of the clear parts in the process.

It's worth noting at this stage that the instruction diagram showing the open vs closed shutter option incorrectly refers to parts Q2 when in fact they really mean parts Q5.

Next up is the turret base and work on the main gun.

wBill,,,    our posts must have crossed each other at just about the same time,,  timing is everything.       Like I said,   You certainly do detail the details,,,   wonderful reading,,     great job!