1/16 - 120mm Figure GB

mike91978

What kind of paint did you end up getting? Oils?

Hi Mike, I ordered the Vallejo Flames Of War German SS paint set, also picked up some Game Color Dead White. Still waiting on the flesh tones.

I havent ordered oils yet, although I may.

What kind of paint did you end up getting? Oils?

Excellent, most of my paints arrived. I'm still waitng on my flesh tones, once they get here I'll start smearing my figure...

thanx Spiral, i will take my time so. asap i'll post some finished/unfinished previous work

using milliput putty means  space and clean workbench and actually these requirements are not mets LOL

When ever your ready bsyamato, theirs no end date on this GB, so no rush to complete projects here.

I wanted to get this GB up and running so I could learn how to build and paint figures. Hopefully the longer the Gb runs the more info it will produce.

i was thinkin some warrior elf from the old warcraft videogame inspired, but is too soon now to start too busy but wishing to do

following the gb for now .. sigh

bsyamato

nice pieces here

Spiral what's about the subject? the gb is limited to military subjects? in mind to eventually scratch some fantasy figure

Hi bsyamato, the figure can be anything you want as long as its a figure of 1/16 - 120mm scale. Sci-fi and fantasy stuff is welcome same with animals of any kind, just keep to scale.

PNG, just let me know when you decide what you will build. Dont worry about skill level, I have ZERO skill in modeling figures, this is my first and i dont expect great results but I do hope to learn something along the way.

Mike, thanks for the info. I actually looked at a few art store sights and found all kinds of oils I just have never used oils for anything but I do hope to learn as I continue my figure.

Quick update:  I stripped the paint off the figure body to attempt airbrushing. I started with the trousers and I'll be damned if I didn't get the Vallejo to spray without much trouble.  After spraying I went back and added more highlights and shadows.  I think it turned out much better and looks much more convincing as far as zenithal lighting goes.  I'll post pics in the next few days hopefully.

Spiral: I think most people use Winsor & Newton or Grumbacher oils.  I've never used them myself, but would like to try someday.  Check out various figure painting sites, such as Historicus Forma and Planet Figure for various oil mixes.  If you can get a copy of Shep Paine's book How to Build Dioramas there's a tutorial of how to paint faces with oils.

PNGbrat: Don't worry about lowering the curve!  It seems like we have a good mix of skill levels in this GB.  I know I'm not going to win any golds for my figures anytime soon.  It's all about having fun and above all learning and improving as modelers.

  I have narrowed my choices to two- a WW2 marine or a Napoleonic figure.  I can't start yet cause I need to get a new camera, but when I do I'll post and start.  I've enjoyed the pictures and information posted so far.  Hope I don't lower the curve too much when I start.

                                                                                              g.knox

nice pieces here

Spiral what's about the subject? the gb is limited to military subjects? in mind to eventually scratch some fantasy figure

Im waiting on some Vallejo paint, probally going to take 5 to 7 days.

As far as oils, what is a good brand and do they sell flesh tones or do you need to mix.

thanks

Herr Richthofen has been assembled and primed. My primer of choice is airbrushed Floquil grey primer. Thinned with about 25% lacquer thinner, it goes on nicely and has some "bite" on the plastic. I hope to airbrush the acrylic base colors on tomorrow in preparation for doing the face, jacket and boots in oils and the hat and pants in Vallejo acrylics.  After priming, I noticed the slight gap between the boot and right leg. I'll hit that with some putty before painting.

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Thanks for the reply Jack.

Leave the face in it's original paint, but definitely the uniform give it a flat coat.

Things like leather boots and belts, also do not gloss up - use  lighter paint shades for highlights to give the impression of a "shine" if required. 

For the weapon metal parts - paint flat black and then dry brush gun metal.

Reason against using gloss of any type is that for models it tends to look tacky and/or toylike.  Using flat colours to create highlights just looks more professional.  Although for your kit you can make an exception for the lenses for the special sniper equipment - a drop of gloss would be alright.

regards,

Jack

OK, I have another question: The finish coat on a figures face? semi-gloss? the clothes also, semi-gloss?

When I look at my clothes they look flat. So what's the suggestion?

Thanks in advance.

Yes, the main colour should be sprayed on as the second step.  You should spray from the top and move down to about 90 degrees but not past this point, otherwise you will lose the shadow areas. 

With the paint brush you should not have to lay down large swaths of the main colour again, unless you are doing a camou pattern.  The brush is just to refine/add more contrast to the lights and shadows of wrinkles and folds of the cloth.  Then you progress to other details such as buttons, insignia, belts and equipment.

I haven't tried thinning Vallejo so you'll have to experiment there.  Sure, try the alcohol as well as future.  I've seen on the forum here that Testors acrylic thinner works well too.  I'd suggest just mixing with a brush on a small patch of glass or similar surface to see how the paint reacts first - no point in gumming up the airbrush.

regards,

Jack

Here's a quick update: Most of my parts are clean with the exception of the gear, so I guess I can start adding a base coat and move the project along.

Igeratic: OK.  I see that the base color should be sprayed with the airbrush at a 90 degree angle. Any thoughts about getting Vallejo to spray better?  maybe thinning with alcohol instead of distilled water? Probably like all other things model related it's a matter of blood, sweat, tears, trial and tribulation.

One of the problems I've had with this airbrushing technique is I'll spray the whole figure with a dark basecoat then spray a highlight color at an angle.  When I go to put on the main color with a brush I'll do this in layers with pretty thin paint.  But in order to keep this coat from looking streaky and blotchy, I have to put so many layers that the initial airbrush coats are no longer visible.  Any ideas on what I may be doing wrong?  I know it's hard to pinpoint without seeing it in process.

Regarding airbrushes and figures - although I don't know every single modeler on the planet,  I'm not aware of anyone that uses exclusively just the airbrush, at least not on these small scale figures.

For me anyways, the airbrush gives a good even prime coat and some initial colouring.  This way I'm not sitting at the workbench with a naked figure in one hand,  a 000 brush in the other and wondering where to start.    The paint brush is still very much important for the painting of the figure.

Another hint to pass on, if your figure is cast with it's head separate, leave it so and paint it and the body before attaching together.

regards,

Jack

Thanks Mike, thats what i thought it might be (pre-fit). I just thought I would ask, I want to make sure I get the best results i can.

Dave B: Thanks for the kind words.  I'm using Vallejo for everything.  The pics of the face are pretty extreme close ups and unforgiving.  I'm still experimenting with my technique and did some drybrushing on the face which left a little chalky effect that I don't really like.  Won't be doing that again!

Igeratic: Thanks for the mini-tutorial and links.  I've read about airbrushing figures, but I haven't been able to pull it off yet.  One problem is I have all these Vallejo paints and haven't had much luck spraying them.  Guess I could buy all new Tamiya paints and use those. It's only money right? :)

Spiralcity: That's just a little poster putty holding the arms in place for the sake of the photos.  I paint the arms seperately because they go across the figure and his chest and ammo pouches would be hard to paint with the arms attached.  I'll also stick them on temporarily to make sure the shading matches the rest of the figure.

The biggest problem I've had with this build is getting colors I like for the Highlights and Shadows.  I wanted cool colors to reflect the winter setting.  I'm still somewhat experimenting with this figure and I wouldn't be surprised if I didn't strip the paint and start over.  That said, I'm fairly happy so far.

Hey guys, I have a question about attaching the limbs to the figure.

Do you normally use a filler between the fitting? I noticed the two pics above seem to have some putty between the limbs and torso. Is this just for pre-fit or a permenant solution to attaching limbs?

I was all set to just cement my limbs to torso with no filler. My fit seems smooth enough to accomplish good results.

Any help would help.

Thanks

Hey guys, everythings looking great.

jgeratic, thanks for the helpful info. I need all the help I can get, this is my first figure so I dont expect great results but it will be a learning process.

I will post some pics of my figure shortly. Right now it is in the process of being cleaned up.

Here's a pic of the kit.

Hi guys - nice variety of figures here.

If I may suggest, for  those that cannot resist from using a wash to bring out details, hold the figure upside down and let it dry in that position as well.  Reason being is to allow the dark wash to accumulate in the top areas of wrinkles and folds.  Even so you will end up with the centers being darker as washes tend to recede from edges.

Here is something I quickly put together as how to best arrive at discerning light and shadows for a figure.

1. - spray the whole fig in a dark shade, you can go jet black but I prefer the base colour mixed as a darker shade.

2. - spray the base colour at a 90 degree angle as well as from up top.  This will leave the the darker shade still visible in shadow areas.

3.- spray a mixed light shade of the base coat from a direction directly from up top - this represents the highlight area.

Now you can go in with a brush and create more contrast to your liking.

If interested here is an eye tutorial: http://www.planetfigure.com/articles/eye_tutorial-mark_benette/eye-tutorial.html

regards,

Jack

Mike Looking great. Did you use oils on the face?  I think you nailed the reasons why we do it.

Probably a combination of Vallejo acrylics and oils. I haven't done any extensive "leather work" so it will be a learning experience with lots of experimentation.  This figure offers the chance to do brown (jacket),  black (boots) and patent leather (cap bill.) Should be fun.

I've got my figure in sub-assemblies and have some base coats and shading done.  I'm not a master figure painter by any stretch of the imagination, but I enjoy it and try to improve with each one.