I detailed a Trumpy !/32 MkII Spitfire as a 'factory fresh' example. I used an enamel primer, then Testors aluminum.

Over that I applied the Alclad, and i was able to get slight buffability out of it. Not bad. Zer0000 drying time.

Well, I guess I'll try it if Wifey agrees.  I started stage one assembly.  Not much to report, just the inside of the air intake tube halves are done in steel.  Then I glued them together and I have the base Dark Grey coat on the cockpit interior which is part of the upper air intake tube on this kit.  I wonder if I can find some AM PE or resin cockpit pieces for this one.  Might be worth an eBay search.

Bockscar

I detailed a Trumpy !/32 MkII Spitfire as a 'factory fresh' example. I used an enamel primer, then Testors aluminum.

Over that I applied the Alclad, and i was able to get slight buffability out of it. Not bad. Zer0000 drying time.

Sparrowhyperion

Well, I guess I'll try it if Wifey agrees.  I started stage one assembly.  Not much to report, just the inside of the air intake tube halves are done in steel.  Then I glued them together and I have the base Dark Grey coat on the cockpit interior which is part of the upper air intake tube on this kit.  I wonder if I can find some AM PE or resin cockpit pieces for this one.  Might be worth an eBay search.

 

Bockscar:

I detailed a Trumpy !/32 MkII Spitfire as a 'factory fresh' example. I used an enamel primer, then Testors aluminum.

Over that I applied the Alclad, and i was able to get slight buffability out of it. Not bad. Zer0000 drying time.

 

Hi Rich,

Legend makes one that is supposed to fit the Academy kit.  Sprue Brothers has one, here is a link:

http://store.spruebrothers.com/148-legend-f-86f-sabre-cockpit-set-hasaca-kits-4029-p5447.aspx 

It is supposed to fit both the Hasegawa and the Academy kits, so I don't know how good the fit is.  Maybe someone else has had experience with it and can provide some input.

SoMM (the other Ken)

I saw that one at Sprue Brothers.  It doesn't have any PE for the cockpit instrument panels, which is kind of what I really want to find.  My instrument panel painting skills aren't what they used to be. lol..

Rich

Son Of Medicine Man

 

Sparrowhyperion:

 

Well, I guess I'll try it if Wifey agrees.  I started stage one assembly.  Not much to report, just the inside of the air intake tube halves are done in steel.  Then I glued them together and I have the base Dark Grey coat on the cockpit interior which is part of the upper air intake tube on this kit.  I wonder if I can find some AM PE or resin cockpit pieces for this one.  Might be worth an eBay search.

 

 

Bockscar:

I detailed a Trumpy !/32 MkII Spitfire as a 'factory fresh' example. I used an enamel primer, then Testors aluminum.

Over that I applied the Alclad, and i was able to get slight buffability out of it. Not bad. Zer0000 drying time.

 

 

 

 

Hi Rich,

Legend makes one that is supposed to fit the Academy kit.  Sprue Brothers has one, here is a link:

http://store.spruebrothers.com/148-legend-f-86f-sabre-cockpit-set-hasaca-kits-4029-p5447.aspx 

It is supposed to fit both the Hasegawa and the Academy kits, so I don't know how good the fit is.  Maybe someone else has had experience with it and can provide some input.

SoMM (the other Ken)

I agree with you on that point.  But it was the only one that stated it would fit the Academy kit.  All the others were made to fit the Hasegawa kit.

Gosh, what's with the repeats?....lol

Obviously a small problem here on the website.  But hey, a good way to hear from you again!

Rich,

Yeah the undercoat will show though a little so it will vary the shade you'll get with Alclad. Polished aluminum is super shiny, pretty close to an airshow plane assuming that's what you want. I generally use the plain aluminum almost all the time, I've mixed it 50/50 with the polished for a shiny wartime bird.

Cliff

Thanks for the info.  I'll give that a try.

Rich

Gamera

Rich,

Yeah the undercoat will show though a little so it will vary the shade you'll get with Alclad. Polished aluminum is super shiny, pretty close to an airshow plane assuming that's what you want. I generally use the plain aluminum almost all the time, I've mixed it 50/50 with the polished for a shiny wartime bird.

Cliff

 

Gamera

Rich,

Yeah the undercoat will show though a little so it will vary the shade you'll get with Alclad. Polished aluminum is super shiny, pretty close to an airshow plane assuming that's what you want. I generally use the plain aluminum almost all the time, I've mixed it 50/50 with the polished for a shiny wartime bird.

Cliff

 

I used Testor's Silver and regular Alclad, by varying the coverage you can get shades of aluminum.

The Alclad black gloss as an undercoat with their aluminum or more shiny, silver or was that chrome?, on top can give you the real buff, stuff...lol...

Rich, you really missed out last year, Berny stole your 4oz batch of Alclad and black lacquer.....

burn....baby...burn.........lol......

had t'a side kick yah in the parking lot to get those AM parts, pal......lol.....

Hey, there's always time to throw on some 'Bare Metal' foil, right.......lol....

I normally use Model Master acrylic gloss black as an undercoat since it's the only gloss I've been able to spray without orange peel. But you really only need it for a high gloss, I've had good luck with Tamiya light grey primer from a can as a undercoat.

BTW: I'm not saying Alclad is the best way or the only way, I'm just saying it gave me fewer headaches than any other form of NM paint!

Gamera

I normally use Model Master acrylic gloss black as an undercoat since it's the only gloss I've been able to spray without orange peel. But you really only need it for a high gloss, I've had good luck with Tamiya light grey primer from a can as a undercoat.

BTW: I'm not saying Alclad is the best way or the only way, I'm just saying it gave me fewer headaches than any other form of NM paint!

Thanks Cliff.  That is good information to know.  I have not tried painting with the Alclad paint yet but intend to.  I want to paint my collection of century jets with it.  In fact, I have several Voodoo kits to experiment with (imagine that!).

SoMM (the other Ken)

I picked up a bottle of "AirFrame Aluminum" Alclad.  I am assuming that these are ready to spray without thinning.  I don't have any spray acrylics, just enamel.  I usually only use acrylic for washes or some dry brushing.

I got some work done last night.  The cockpit is complete and about as well painted as I can manage anymore.  I used a combination of gray and flat black enamel with a dry brushing of silver acrylic for the control and instrument panels.  I think it came out passable as long as the cockpit remains closed.  lol  I will send up some images later today.  The intake tube is also assembled now and the front wheel bay is done in interior green.  I also pre painted the landing gay wheel wells on the wings in interior green as well.  Today I am going to tackle all of the little fiddly bits that need painting on this bird.  I will probably leave the gun bay panels loos so they can be taken off for display.  This one will probably be gear down if I can do a neat enough job on the wheels and struts. The only regret I have with this kit is that it's an F and there are no front edge low speed automatic slats.  It just has the two small wing fences.  I'll have to do an A or B sometime just to do some slats. lol

This week has not been a good one for my hands.  I have arthritis and that isn't helping much so this one is going to be done pretty slowly.

I used Phil's Hobby Shop online to get the Alclad so it should be here pretty quickly.  They always get the stuf in the mail fast.  It should be here well before I need it.  It was like $7.69 and $2.08 to ship which from what I can tell was a good price.  I highly recommend them.

Rich

Son Of Medicine Man

 

Gamera:

 

I normally use Model Master acrylic gloss black as an undercoat since it's the only gloss I've been able to spray without orange peel. But you really only need it for a high gloss, I've had good luck with Tamiya light grey primer from a can as a undercoat.

BTW: I'm not saying Alclad is the best way or the only way, I'm just saying it gave me fewer headaches than any other form of NM paint!

 

 

Thanks Cliff.  That is good information to know.  I have not tried painting with the Alclad paint yet but intend to.  I want to paint my collection of century jets with it.  In fact, I have several Voodoo kits to experiment with (imagine that!).

SoMM (the other Ken)

No, you don't have to thin the stuff at all, just spray thin coats and it will slowly build up the shine. I normally use acrylics as much as I can, enamels should work just as well. Good luck!

Gamera

No, you don't have to thin the stuff at all, just spray thin coats and it will slowly build up the shine. I normally use acrylics as much as I can, enamels should work just as well. Good luck!

 

I am by no means an expert, but I do have some experience from painting cars.  One thing was a golden rule, you can paint enamel over lacquer, but you cannot paint lacquer over enamel.  If Alclad is lacquer based, it may cause a chemical reaction.  You might want to check or test this first.

SoMM (the other Ken)

I was wondering that as well.  Lacquer is a pretty aggressive solvent based finish.  I'll check and see.  I may have to try and pick up some acrylic.

Son Of Medicine Man

 

Gamera:

 

No, you don't have to thin the stuff at all, just spray thin coats and it will slowly build up the shine. I normally use acrylics as much as I can, enamels should work just as well. Good luck!

 

 

 

I am by no means an expert, but I do have some experience from painting cars.  One thing was a golden rule, you can paint enamel over lacquer, but you cannot paint lacquer over enamel.  If Alclad is lacquer based, it may cause a chemical reaction.  You might want to check or test this first.

SoMM (the other Ken)

Started some weathering. Im a little concerned ive maybe done it too heavy. But this aircraft was based on a coral airfield.

Id really love some feedback. Thanks guys.

It's hard to tell from this image.  The flash kind of made it look washed out  I don't think I would have lightened the panel lines.  They might look a bit better darkened instead.  When you get to adding some dirt and stains and rust, it should be easier to really get an idea of what it's going to look like.  You might want to step back with the camera and use the zoom so you don't have the flash washing it out as  much.

Other than that, it looks great.

Rich

Scorpiomikey

Started some weathering. Im a little concerned ive maybe done it too heavy. But this aircraft was based on a coral airfield.

Id really love some feedback. Thanks guys.

Scorpiomikey

Started some weathering. Im a little concerned ive maybe done it too heavy. But this aircraft was based on a coral airfield.

Id really love some feedback. Thanks guys.

Hi Mikey,

I am taking a guess, but it is supposed to be white because of the white sand?  I think it looks great!

SoMM (the other Ken)

Not sand, Coral dust. Coral runways.

I might wipe some off. Dad seemed to think it was ok. I keep looking at it thinking ive overdone it.

Scorpiomikey

Not sand, Coral dust. Coral runways.

I might wipe some off. Dad seemed to think it was ok. I keep looking at it thinking ive overdone it.

So the coral dust would be very fine and powdery?  If so I think you did a good job.  It would have turned everything white!

Heres another shot with the front cowl on. I havent done that yet. Just the main body.

Thanks for the feedback guys.

Heres another shot with markings on. Shes almost done.

Still need to weather the front cowl. Few more decals to go. 

Its amazing what the prospect of a 3 day weekend and a lack of computer games will do for a guys motivation lol.

Looks really fine Mikey!   

SoMM (the other Ken)

Crushed coral is just a refined form of calcium carbonate, a fine ultra powder in white makes a nice dust finish.

Bockscar

Crushed coral is just a refined form of calcium carbonate, a fine ultra powder in white makes a nice dust finish.

Thank you Dom for answering my question.  That makes sense now.

Mike, she looks really good to me

VooDoo;

How much dust stuck to an aircraft's surface had as many factors as Rich's challenge with paint variables.

Older paint, on surviving aircraft, tends to go dull,  or 'flat', and it naturally picks up more ambient dust, on a coral attol, that means calcium carbonate. i.e., a newer aircraft isn't going to attract or accumulate more dust.

My guess is the guys didn't waste drinking water washing off aircraft on those island landing strips.

maybe Gilligan did.

Ive heard stories that whatever they washed them with made the staining worse, I want to say seawater, but that doesnt sound right to me.

Oh, i should also mention, this aircraft was based at Bouganville.

On a restricted piece of real estate, there's another source of liquid that would definitely increase the staining.

"Recite the litanies, fire up the Gellar field, a pee wash is coming"