Jim:

Very sorry to hear that. That's pretty much what I went trough in 2010 with my parents and my wife's dad as well.

All I can say is that I was with my mom and dad when they passed, I think it helped them. I mention it because not everyone wants to be there when it happens.

All the best to you, and peace to your mom.

-Dom

Jim,

My Dad's passing was close to the same as you described.  The last week to 10 days I could not tell if he knew if I was even there.  It is very hard.  I wish you the best in these worst of times.  Take your time, we will all be here when you come back.  And if you need to just chat, feel free to do that as well.

Ken

Ouch Jim, I'll add your mother to my prayers if it's ok with you.

Cliff 

I am sorry to hear about your Mom.  My Mom died of a sudden heart attack just over a year after my Dad.  She got into a cab to go shopping and when they got to the store, the cab driver looked back and she was gone.  In a way I suppose she was fortunate in that she didn't suffer.  I can't imagine what it's like to see a loved one go through what your Mom is going through.  You should be commended for your caring for her.  A hospice is not a bad thing.  She will get all the care she needs.  I know it was probably a very hard decision for you, but I think you made the right choice for both you and your Mom.

Rich

jimbot58

Posted at the Rhino III build:

"

Hi gang.

I just wanted to pass along a brief note about my absence here and at the Berny build. Things have gone very bad here with my mother back in the hospital with another bout of pneumonia.  This time, it is very serious and with her underlying COPD, she has no strength to fight it. The Doctors and nurses did all they could and it did little good. I had to make the decision to move her to comfort care (hospice) most likely this Saturday. I don't see her having much time left. She has been in a lethargic state most of the week and no longer responds to outside stimulus. I feel she is already gone. I also know I have a long road ahead as to settling of her affairs.

When things will stabilize for me and I can again take up the Xacto knife and the MEK it's hard to say.

Just so you all know what has been happening.

I appreciate your thoughts, prayers, and kind comments ahead of time.

Jim"

Well.  I have the main assembly on the Sabre ready for primer.  I decided to do a quick tesat on something disposable, so I found an old hull section off of an old model of the battleship Missouri, used some of my regular MM gray primer, then used a bot of the alclad II on it to make sure the lacquer didn't react with the enamel primer.  It's a good thing I did...  It was a mess.  The Lacquer seemed to loosen the primer and it all peeled off.  I had cleaned the test piece thoroughly and made sure to let the primer cure for about 4 days.  As a result, I have ordered a 4oz. bottle of the Alclad II Black Primer and Microfiller.  It should be here sometime early next week.  Until then, it's on hold.

Rich

Sparrowhyperion

Well.  I have the main assembly on the Sabre ready for primer.  I decided to do a quick tesat on something disposable, so I found an old hull section off of an old model of the battleship Missouri, used some of my regular MM gray primer, then used a bot of the alclad II on it to make sure the lacquer didn't react with the enamel primer.  It's a good thing I did...  It was a mess.  The Lacquer seemed to loosen the primer and it all peeled off.  I had cleaned the test piece thoroughly and made sure to let the primer cure for about 4 days.  As a result, I have ordered a 4oz. bottle of the Alclad II Black Primer and Microfiller.  It should be here sometime early next week.  Until then, it's on hold.

 

Rich

Hi Rich,

I was surprised that you didn't try using the acrylic approach that Cliff had talked about.  It sounded like that worked pretty well.

Ken

I was going to then I realized I had very little acrylic paint on hand, and most of it was silver or another color which would not have made a good primer.

Son Of Medicine Man

 

Sparrowhyperion:

 

Well.  I have the main assembly on the Sabre ready for primer.  I decided to do a quick tesat on something disposable, so I found an old hull section off of an old model of the battleship Missouri, used some of my regular MM gray primer, then used a bot of the alclad II on it to make sure the lacquer didn't react with the enamel primer.  It's a good thing I did...  It was a mess.  The Lacquer seemed to loosen the primer and it all peeled off.  I had cleaned the test piece thoroughly and made sure to let the primer cure for about 4 days.  As a result, I have ordered a 4oz. bottle of the Alclad II Black Primer and Microfiller.  It should be here sometime early next week.  Until then, it's on hold.

 

Rich

 

 

Hi Rich,

I was surprised that you didn't try using the acrylic approach that Cliff had talked about.  It sounded like that worked pretty well.

Ken

Rich:

The good news is that you tested it out first.

I'm not sure how you applied those coatings.

I've been using an airbrush since 1985, (when I was still looking forward

in life), and I always apply multiple passes with very thin coats.

lacquer paints, especially Alclad products, have a very

high content of solvents, like Toluene and Acetone, so they will melt

a Varsol based resin if the coating hits the enamel as a liquid.

Enamel is a varnish based resin, soluble in Varsol, but

it is at the bottom of the solvent foodchain. Varsol takes a while to

even begin to attack a lacquer resin if at all, but lacquer thinners will rip

enamel off and eat away styrene while it is fluid.

I like to airbrush because I can get the very thin coats. I let the

solvent pretty much evaporate in space before the paint hits

the surface.

As for Alclad primer, many say it has a long drying time, sometimes days,

so again, applying thin coats with drying time in between might work

if you have the time/patience. Otherwise, a single session and a dust

hood so nothing messes it up while it's drying.

I dunno, finishing can be a real screw-ball in the modeling process.

Please show a pic of the test section, poor old Missouri, if you have the time and/or patience.

Yogi Berra:

"In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. But in practice, there is."

Thanks for the info Dom.  I am still kind of relatively new to airbrushing.  I can be very patient if I need to.  What pressure etc. do you recommend for the Alclad II lacquer?  What range from the subject would you suggest?  And would it work better in a  gravity fed or siphon airbrush?  One of my cheap little harbor freight airbrushes is out of service.. lol  Marissa took it apart to see how it worked and I can't figure out how to re-assemble it. LMAO...  It's starting to look like it's going to be one of THOSE weekends.

Oh.. I got ahold of my Sister about my Nephew and he gave me a short list of kits he might like to try.  The problem is going to be finding a few of them.  So I will save up and get him one of the ones I can find.  He likes ships.  He loves Aircraft Carriers.  He had down the Nimitz but didn't specify scale or which kit exactly.  I'm going to go large scale though.  I know from experience how Brain surgery can mess up your motor skills and I don't want to get him something too small that would just frustrate him.  He also likes Civilian Air Liners.  I am thinking of maybe a Concorde if I can find a large enough one I can afford.  They are pretty rare now, but they are usually simpler to build than most others.  The only military planes he likes really are bombers.  Usually European or Warsaw Pact.  I figure it will take a bit to find something suitable.  If you have any suggestions, please chime in.

Rich

Bockscar

Rich:

The good news is that you tested it out first.

I'm not sure how you applied those coatings.

I've been using an airbrush since 1985, (when I was still looking forward

in life), and I always apply multiple passes with very thin coats.

 

lacquer paints, especially Alclad products, have a very

high content of solvents, like Toluene and Acetone, so they will melt

a Varsol based resin if the coating hits the enamel as a liquid.

 

Enamel is a varnish based resin, soluble in Varsol, but

it is at the bottom of the solvent foodchain. Varsol takes while to

even begin to attack a lacquer resin if at all, but lacquer thinners will rip

enamel off and eat away styrene while it is fluid.

 

I like airbrush because I can get the very thin coats. I let the

solvent pretty much dry out in space before the paint hits

the surface.

 

As for Alclad primer, many say it has a long drying time, days,

so again, thin coats with drying time in between might work

if you have the time/patience. Otherwise, a single session and a dust

hood so nothing messes it up while it's drying.

 

I dunno, finishing can be a real screw-ball in the modeling process.

Show a pic of the test section, poor old Missouri, if you have the time and/or patience.

 

Ack Rich, seems like if you didn't have bad luck you'd have no luck at all. I'm glad you tried the paint mule instead of messing up another sabre.

I've never had Alclad do anything like that. I hope you weren't flooding it on, it goes down best with multiple light mist coats. I found this video on YouTube that gives a good demo on how to apply it.

Thanks for that Video.  It really halped.  I also found a couple more useful ones on their Youtube page.

Rich

Gamera

Ack Rich, seems like if you didn't have bad luck you'd have no luck at all. I'm glad you tried the paint mule instead of messing up another sabre.

I've never had Alclad do anything like that. I hope you weren't flooding it on, it goes down best with multiple light mist coats. I found this video on YouTube that gives a good demo on how to apply it.

<embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/dMG7Tugcdrk&rel=1" mce_src="http://www.youtube.com/v/dMG7Tugcdrk&amp;rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed>

'); // -->

 

Oh Man!

Good luck re-assembling, is there an orthographic blow-up

online?

Here's the deal with pressure......I always used a double-action,

or a spray can. i've never used a single action airbrush.

I vary the 'air-pressure' and the 'flow' with the trigger to accommodate the viscosity

of the fluid I'm trying to apply. I never actually know what the real air pressure is

at the spray tip, it depends entirely on the thickness of the paint.

I've been using an old Badger compressor for years, it's built

like a Sherman, shook a chimney off its foundations one day....lol.....

I use both siphon and gravity feed. Siphon for aircraft carrier hulls, running out of

paint on a big job is worth putting a needle in your own eye for......

just so the physical pain matches the "I phuqued up" pain.

i use gravity for small projects, or repairing bullet holes....lol....

I have a 1/4+ hp fan & paint hood, I think it is pulling about 300 cfm,

which is handy for the fumes and over-spray.

Here's something you might want to try;

Get some cheap paint you don't need and thin it out about

2:1 or so depending on the viscosity. You can get thinning ratios online

I think; Alclad is very, very thin, ready to spray. Or as I say, the

most expensive paint thinner on earth.

Set up a test surface with newspaper or plain craft paper

and practice:

1) your paint stroke:

             a) always keep the spray 'cone' perpendicular to the surface, that means the wrist

                   acts independent of your fore-arm, always keep the barrel 90 degrees to the surface.

            b) practice the optimal speed on the stroke to get a nice coat

            c) never start or stop the stroke while the 'cone' is on the project, so start spraying

                before you hit it, and like a sprinter, spray through the finish, let up after the cone has left

2) practice with any pressure flow, push the cone into the surface until it is obviously liquid and makes

    centipedes, then move back out until you are wasting paint. You get a feel for seeing the paint hit the target

   almost 'dry on contact'. -That's the Yogi Berra 'theory' part

Spraying a surface with the brush at an angle is only good for filling in the odd bend or hole, but again,

practice moving the brush around and try to keep the 'cone' face perpendicular to the target surface at all times if possible.

Rich, patience is your best friend. You have those motor challenges, but practicing really helps.

Don't want to break out the air brush just to practice?

Get a nice big pice of paper and tap it down to a flat surface, a table, a wall, anything.

Get a nice big pencil, and grip it as you would an airbrush. practice going from side to side in straight lines while always keeping the pencil 90 degrees, totally orthogonal to the surface.

Then, practice dropping the pencil down onto the surface to draw a straight line, and lift it at the end.

You can draw a target: drop the pencil, slice through the target, the lift after the slice is complete:

just like reality when you are painting.

I recommend drawing those straight lines back and forth until you have cut close to 200 lines, then rest, but always stop if it starts to hurt. You don't need carpel tunnelitis to add to your list.

Gamera

Ack Rich, seems like if you didn't have bad luck you'd have no luck at all. I'm glad you tried the paint mule instead of messing up another sabre.

I've never had Alclad do anything like that. I hope you weren't flooding it on, it goes down best with multiple light mist coats. I found this video on YouTube that gives a good demo on how to apply it.

&lt;embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/dMG7Tugcdrk&amp;rel=1" mce_src="http://www.youtube.com/v/dMG7Tugcdrk&amp;amp;rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"&gt;&lt;/embed&gt;

'); // -->

 

sprays on an angle, and arcs his stroke....lol.........lol....

i bet he isn't wearing a NIOSH mask either....lol....

I'm going outside for a cigarette!!!....lol....

If you paint a 1/4 gallon of lacquer in a small room, like, don't phuqing light up, or you will blow up!....lol....

I haven't managed to find one yet.  It's one of those cheap dual action siphon feed brushes made by Master.  I'll figure it out.  I need to order some airbrush lubricant anyways.  My el-generico gravity feed is starting to stick.  All my brushes are Dual action.

That's really helpful info.  I already have CTS, so it's too late to help that. lol  Straight line is a relative term for me, but I know to start spraying before you get to the target.  The Alclad is about as thin as isopropyl alcohol.  I got it at a reasonable price.  The 4oz. primer / microfiller was like $7 and $1.50 or so to ship.  The paint, primer and some nitrile  (I got tired of wasting thinner cleaning paint off my hands...)   gloves pretty much ate this month's hobby budget so I hope it works.

I need to build some kind of jig to hold the subject model straight up to paint.What I am using now is just not working as well as I had hoped and I have to be really careful of overspray.

I am probably going to try and finish up the Mosquito I still have both props for while I wait for the primer.  I still can't find the darned prop for the MK IV.

Rich

Bockscar

Oh Man!

Good luck re-assembling, is there an orthographic blow-up

online?

 

Here's the deal with pressure......I always used a double-action,

or a spray can. i've never used a single action airbrush.

I vary the 'air-pressure' and the 'flow' with the trigger to accommodate the viscosity

of the fluid I'm trying to apply. I never actually know what the real air pressure is

at the spray tip, it depends entirely on the thickness of the paint.

 

I've been using an old Badger compressor for years, it's built

like a Sherman, shook a chimney off its foundations one day....lol.....

I use both siphon and gravity feed. Siphon for aircraft carrier hulls, running out of

paint on a big job is worth putting a needle in your own eye for......

just so the physical pain matches the "I phuqued up" pain.

 

i use gravity for small projects, or repairing bullet holes....lol....

I have a 1/4+ hp fan & paint hood, I think it is pulling about 300 cfm,

which is handy for the fumes and over-spray.

 

Here's something you might want to try;

Get some cheap paint you don't need and thin it out about

2:1 or so depending on the viscosity. You can get thinning ratios online

I think; Alclad is very, very thin, ready to spray. Or as I say, the

most expensive paint thinner on earth.

 

Set up a test surface with newspaper or plain craft paper

and practice:

1) your paint stroke:

             a) always keep the spray 'cone' perpendicular to the surface, that means the wrist

                   acts independent of your fore-arm, always keep the barrel 90 degrees to the surface.

            b) practice the optimal speed on the stroke to get a nice coat

            c) never start or stop the stroke while the 'cone' is on the project, so start spraying

                before you hit it, and like a sprinter, spray through the finish, let up after the cone has left

2) practice with any pressure flow, push the cone into the surface until it is obviously liquid and makes

    centipedes, then move back out until you are wasting paint. You get a feel for seeing the paint hit the target

   almost 'dry on contact'. -That's the Yogi Berra 'theory' part

Spraying a surface with the brush at an angle is only good for filling in the odd bend or hole, but again,

practice moving the brush around and try to keep the 'cone' face perpendicular to the target surface at all times if possible.

Rich, patience is your best friend. You have those motor challenges, but practicing really helps.

 

Don't want to break out the air brush just to practice?

Get a nice big pice of paper and tap it down to a flat surface, a table, a wall, anything.

Get a nice big pencil, and grip it as you would an airbrush. practice going from side to side in straight lines while always keeping the pencil 90 degrees, totally orthogonal to the surface.

Then, practice dropping the pencil down onto the surface to draw a straight line, and lift it at the end.

You can draw a target: drop the pencil, slice through the target, the lift after the slice is complete:

just like reality when you are painting.

I recommend drawing those straight lines back and forth until you have cut close to 200 lines, then rest, but always stop if it starts to hurt. You don't need carpel tunnelitis to add to your list.

 

 

Greetings everyone,

Pretty good tips there Dom.  I have applied my skills learned from painting cars.  Even though it is a smaller scale, the principles are the same.

Well Zoukei-mura has finally announced they are taking pre-orders for their new 1/32 scale P-51D Mustang.  Here is a link if anyone is interested:

http://www.volksusa.com/super-wing-series-no-04-p51dmustang.html


If you order it now it is only $80, which is $15 off.  I personally like the P-51 Mustang, but with the number of kits I already have to build, it is not going to be in my collection.

Ken

Looks nice, but it's not in my price range.  I'll stick with the Dragon, Hasegawa, or Revell kits.  They may not have as many features, but they won't break the bank either.  I really don't see anything about this one that would compel me to buy it anyways.  There are already a lot of other P51-Ds out there.

Rich

Son Of Medicine Man

Greetings everyone,

Pretty good tips there Dom.  I have applied my skills learned from painting cars.  Even though it is a smaller scale, the principles are the same.

Well Zoukei-mura has finally announced they are taking pre-orders for their new 1/32 scale P-51D Mustang.  Here is a link if anyone is interested:

http://www.volksusa.com/super-wing-series-no-04-p51dmustang.html


If you order it now it is only $80, which is $15 off.  I personally like the P-51 Mustang, but with the number of kits I already have to build, it is not going to be in my collection.

Ken

 

 

Son Of Medicine Man

Greetings everyone,

Pretty good tips there Dom.  I have applied my skills learned from painting cars.  Even though it is a smaller scale, the principles are the same.

Well Zoukei-mura has finally announced they are taking pre-orders for their new 1/32 scale P-51D Mustang.  Here is a link if anyone is interested:

http://www.volksusa.com/super-wing-series-no-04-p51dmustang.html


If you order it now it is only $80, which is $15 off.  I personally like the P-51 Mustang, but with the number of kits I already have to build, it is not going to be in my collection.

Ken

 

 

Thanks for that, destroyed a lot of art finding out how the brush worked. Yeah, I see so many guys painting on an angle, it' no wonder people say I am "square!" -hippy dippys please hike yourselves right about now!....lol...

Yeah, the P-51 is my second favourite airplane. I checked and I have a 1/32 Hasegawa, I think it is as old as me...lol....I think I have a Revell, but can't aford the renno's if I decide to tear evrithin' apart ta' find it!

I have a Trumpy 1/24, with all those rivets.....by the time i build that I'll need a 1:1 kit just ta' see what the heck I'm do'in!

I always wanted a North American squadron....P-51, Fury, Sabres, Valkyrie,.....I got the styrene, but I need to be re-assured if I start building all that God will let me stay around to finish them.....lol....

or take up fishin'....lol.......please.............oh phhhluufffe it.........lol....

I got an old mono Ding Hao! from when I never kissed a girl.......30's, I recall....lol.....

Take that how you want, I started before you're mom was born, or 24 years ago....lol.....

Anyhow, never saw a kit I didn't actually want. They are all there, but I knew enough to prioritize!

Bought my first 400 favourite kits...lol....it's a lie, I lost count.........Xcel is not up to date......Bill gates is history

.....bored yet pal?.....lol......... -segment edited to avoid attracting management attention......lol

Hi Dom,

I am right there with you pal. I would like to have "one of everything"!  But like you said, I have to prioritize and pick what I really want.  I already have gone past the limit as far as space and time, at least in the current environment.

Well, I am off to work on my wife's car.  As always, life gets in the way of things I would rather do.

Ken

Hey guys. Just checking in. letting you know im still alive. Corsairs nearly done. But im taking a wee break from it. This is whats kept me occupied this last weekend. Right arm partial sleeve started.

Cant wait till its finished. 

Mikey, I hope that ink-artist isn't finished.

This isn't a crit on you personally.

that figure on the right looks like an H.R Geiger alien, with tiny

black alien eyes and breasts growing, with white areola out

beside its spinal column. Dentils under the sternum.

I may be wrong, but I was a visual artist, specialty in human

anatomy and figures.......if you are looking for a neo-classical

image, then it needs some defined scapula, trapezius definition,

and put those vertebra in a furrow, with the erector spinae more well defined.

the capitus muscles look like an alien mouth.

But I take it all back if that is the new look, art changes but

unfortunately, I don't much any more. It looks quite genetically

morphed as it is.

Ink art pushes the boundaries, and if that is what you intended

the figure to look like, i realize this is a WIP.

I'm also fine with that.

Far from finished my friend. The figures are meant to be deformed and simplistic.

The Gemini figure's (Twins at the bottom) are joined at the pelvis and are showing the deformity of said joining. I wanted bold and dark, so hes doing that, this is the first 2 and a half hours work.

Maybe another 3 sessions of the same length to go.

Still got a leo to go in, then some zodiac symbols then a star cluster in the background. Then he wants to laser off the scorpio on my chest and redo it. Its one that i love, but im not happy with the execution of it. 

So far im extremely happy with the work. 

Thanks for the feedback though.

Mike: I'm not much of a tattoo person but those look pretty cool. The guys a really good artist. I the female centaur is really nice, I'd like to see how they turn out with the colour and fine detail added in.

Ahhhhh so that's the Scorpio in your handle.

Between the needles and the laser, you are a braver man

than I Mikey!  

Probably a good Idea to show Scorpio at it's best. Wouldn't

want a constellation size scorpion miffed!

Thanks for the response, and I agree with Gam, that's going to look

cool.

Hi Everyone,

I have extended an invitation to a gentleman that goes by Russ (aka Striker8241).  I hope he joins us.  He has a lot of experience with several aircraft while in the USAF serving in Vietnam.  He will be a great resource for information and he does a pretty good job on scratch building as well!

Ken

Ken:

Anyone who has served in Vietnam is welcome here.

It would be an honour and privilege to have him aboard!

-Dom

Well.  I'm still waiting for Primer, so I decided to do a quickie build and started a classic Revell 1/48 F-20 Tigershark kit last night.  I have built this one before, and it's always a real pleasure.  It's fit is great, especially for an older R/M kit.  I have most of the assembly already completed and I am starting to think about paint.  I am going to use the kit's recommended simple Red and White scheme with OOB decals.  Here are some images I took while working on it.

Here is the cockpit installed.  I forgot to take any during cockpit assembly...   I blame it on the 90 degree (F) heat we have right now.

Here is a nice shot of the cockpit detail.

Right side view.

Left Side view

Aft end and engine installed.

Front view. 

Here is a bottom view of the current state of assembly with the wing and centerline pylons installed.

I am pretty happy with it.  I still have some small gap filling to do, but it's nice so far.  Let me know what you think.

Rich

Zoom, zoom!

Rich;

The Tigershark reminds me of the Starfighter, almost like the next design evolution.

Looks great........how's the painting going......?

Hey Russ if you're reading this welcome aboard!!!

Rich: Looks like a nice kit there!

The Starfighter was a slightly older design.  The F-20 was a response to the US Air Force who had not purchased many of the F5 series due to what they thought were underpowered engines, despite the fact that as a pure fighter/interceptor, it could outperform almost every other comparable aircraft they threw up against it.  The F5 was designed after pilots extolled the maneuverability and speed of the little T-38 Talon trainer.  The F5 all the way up to the E model sold mostly to buyers outside the US.  The F20 was simply an F5E, with better avionics, a slightly heavier capacity, and the same engine as an F16 stuck in the rear instead of the smaller twin engines. 

I'm still waiting for the Primer to arrive, so paint on the Sabre is still on hold.  I may be able to get some primer on this bird tomorrow if gap filling doesn't take too long.

I'm going to have to pick up an F5 and a T38 some time in the future so I have a complete set. lol..

Rich

Bockscar

Rich;

The Tigershark reminds me of the Starfighter, almost like the next design evolution.

Looks great........how's the painting going......?