Bockscar

 

Thanks Russ,

by the way, saw the B-52 bomb clip, what, with 28 loaded. Didn't catch the Mk or weight of those, I was thinking about 750 lbs each? Two clips per bay? -thanks

Dom

Hey Dom,

One thing that Russ is putting together is instructions on how to put together the bomb clips that go into the B-52.  It is pretty cool.

Ken

Hi Everyone,

Here is a photo of how the first attempt turned out.  As you can see, the paint started to come off so that is when I stopped.  I will try again another time.

Ken

Thanks Ken,

if Russ is up to sharing that would sure save a lot of work.

Still awed imagining a 50K+ bomb load........

I stood under that bomb bay in Dayton a few times....

the belly of the beast.

I've heard they went much higher...

Dom

Ken,

that is so close,

wrapping might work, or a cone mandrel to round those out a bit, i.e put the loop over the tip of a pen and gently

coax the wire into a rounder shape.

My eyes hurt looking at them.

Bockscar

Ken,

that is so close,

wrapping might work, or a cone mandrel to round those out a bit, i.e put the loop over the tip of a pen and gently

coax the wire into a rounder shape.

My eyes hurt looking at them.

 

Thanks man.  Yes, it was close.  Each attempt at them I get closer and better.  I just finally got to the point that I just want to get moving onto something else for a while.  You know, after a while you just need to take a break.  Like I said, I got plenty more aircraft that will require the same type of handles so I will try it again on those.

I got the hoods painted so they are now drying.  Since it is enamel it will take 48 hours to cure.

Ken

I hear you Ken,

Doing the same persnickity things day after day, with wire and tape and thread,

could leave a guy "strung out".....[whstl

When I was building that MkI Spitfire, 1/24 by Trumpeter.

Those vinyl cables, there was no glue on earth that was compatible...

Yeah, sometimes ya just gotta let it go....have some fun....

But to your credit, that's why so many guys use the photo-etch,

they can move on quickly to other things....

Rich: Looks good other than the heavy coat, hope it doesn't cause you any problems there.

Mike: Sharp work! As to what's missing I was going to guess- a flaming Zero??? I'm sure the vet's going to be thrilled- that's a beautiful bird you have there.

Ken: Sorry to hear about the problems, great idea there and yeah you still have a pile of wire left to try again some other time.

Well, it has been a busy day.  It's like 100 down in the basement today, although tomorrow, my Mom-In-Law is having central AC put in.. YAY!!!!!!

The Tiger is coming along nicely.  Small issue with the sabre though.  Does anyone have an idea what might take Tamiya white putty off of styrene?  When I was doing some gap filling on the wing roots, the tube ruptured and dropped a big glob of putty on the wing.  I got most of it off before it set, but there is still a large amount that set before I could wipe it off.  I didn't realize how fast that stuff dried...  I have to get it off of there, or the kit is toast...  I tried sanding, but it started to take off too much detail.  As it is, I will probably not be able to get the surface smooth enough for metalizer now.  So it will get a more mundane steel finish.  I will probably save the metalizer for my large scale 1/32  Hasegawa F86 instead.  If anyone knows how to get this stuff off, please let me know.  Thanks.

Rich

Gamera

Rich: Looks good other than the heavy coat, hope it doesn't cause you any problems there.

Mike: Sharp work! As to what's missing I was going to guess- a flaming Zero??? I'm sure the vet's going to be thrilled- that's a beautiful bird you have there.

Ken: Sorry to hear about the problems, great idea there and yeah you still have a pile of wire left to try again some other time.

 

Hi Everyone,

Well the stress is back at my job.  Apparently it was a short recess. 

I spent the evening working on the servers at work.  But I have already put in for a three day weekend.  There is an Air Show at the Indianapolis Regional Airport this weekend.  I am going to attend.  Looking forward to that.

Ken

Rich, not sure but you could try some fine sandpaper and buff it out.

Ken: Awesome, enjoy the air-show!

Sparrowhyperion

Well, it has been a busy day.  It's like 100 down in the basement today, although tomorrow, my Mom-In-Law is having central AC put in.. YAY!!!!!!

The Tiger is coming along nicely.  Small issue with the sabre though.  Does anyone have an idea what might take Tamiya white putty off of styrene?  When I was doing some gap filling on the wing roots, the tube ruptured and dropped a big glob of putty on the wing.  I got most of it off before it set, but there is still a large amount that set before I could wipe it off.  I didn't realize how fast that stuff dried...  I have to get it off of there, or the kit is toast...  I tried sanding, but it started to take off too much detail.  As it is, I will probably not be able to get the surface smooth enough for metalizer now.  So it will get a more mundane steel finish.  I will probably save the metalizer for my large scale 1/32  Hasegawa F86 instead.  If anyone knows how to get this stuff off, please let me know.  Thanks.

 

Rich

 

 

Gamera:

 

Rich: Looks good other than the heavy coat, hope it doesn't cause you any problems there.

Mike: Sharp work! As to what's missing I was going to guess- a flaming Zero??? I'm sure the vet's going to be thrilled- that's a beautiful bird you have there.

Ken: Sorry to hear about the problems, great idea there and yeah you still have a pile of wire left to try again some other time.

 

 

 

Mate, did some witch curse you in a past life? 

I don't think so, but someone or something doesn't want me doing a Sabre....  If I can't get the gunk off the wing without demolishing it, I'm going to a backup plan...

Scorpiomikey

 

Sparrowhyperion:

 

Well, it has been a busy day.  It's like 100 down in the basement today, although tomorrow, my Mom-In-Law is having central AC put in.. YAY!!!!!!

The Tiger is coming along nicely.  Small issue with the sabre though.  Does anyone have an idea what might take Tamiya white putty off of styrene?  When I was doing some gap filling on the wing roots, the tube ruptured and dropped a big glob of putty on the wing.  I got most of it off before it set, but there is still a large amount that set before I could wipe it off.  I didn't realize how fast that stuff dried...  I have to get it off of there, or the kit is toast...  I tried sanding, but it started to take off too much detail.  As it is, I will probably not be able to get the surface smooth enough for metalizer now.  So it will get a more mundane steel finish.  I will probably save the metalizer for my large scale 1/32  Hasegawa F86 instead.  If anyone knows how to get this stuff off, please let me know.  Thanks.

 

Rich

 

 

Gamera:

 

Rich: Looks good other than the heavy coat, hope it doesn't cause you any problems there.

Mike: Sharp work! As to what's missing I was going to guess- a flaming Zero??? I'm sure the vet's going to be thrilled- that's a beautiful bird you have there.

Ken: Sorry to hear about the problems, great idea there and yeah you still have a pile of wire left to try again some other time.

 

 

 

 

 

Mate, did some witch curse you in a past life? 

Super Sabre?

Sparrowhyperion

I don't think so, but someone or something doesn't want me doing a Sabre....  If I can't get the gunk off the wing without demolishing it, I'm going to a backup plan...

 

 

Scorpiomikey:

 

 

Sparrowhyperion:

 

Well, it has been a busy day.  It's like 100 down in the basement today, although tomorrow, my Mom-In-Law is having central AC put in.. YAY!!!!!!

The Tiger is coming along nicely.  Small issue with the sabre though.  Does anyone have an idea what might take Tamiya white putty off of styrene?  When I was doing some gap filling on the wing roots, the tube ruptured and dropped a big glob of putty on the wing.  I got most of it off before it set, but there is still a large amount that set before I could wipe it off.  I didn't realize how fast that stuff dried...  I have to get it off of there, or the kit is toast...  I tried sanding, but it started to take off too much detail.  As it is, I will probably not be able to get the surface smooth enough for metalizer now.  So it will get a more mundane steel finish.  I will probably save the metalizer for my large scale 1/32  Hasegawa F86 instead.  If anyone knows how to get this stuff off, please let me know.  Thanks.

 

Rich

 

 

Gamera:

 

Rich: Looks good other than the heavy coat, hope it doesn't cause you any problems there.

Mike: Sharp work! As to what's missing I was going to guess- a flaming Zero??? I'm sure the vet's going to be thrilled- that's a beautiful bird you have there.

Ken: Sorry to hear about the problems, great idea there and yeah you still have a pile of wire left to try again some other time.

 

 

 

 

 

Mate, did some witch curse you in a past life? 

 

 

If the blob wasn't too huge, can you mask around it generously with only the blob showing through, then sand, that would minimize damage and rescribing.....

Dom

Scorpiomikey

Sparrowhyperion:

Mate, did some witch curse you in a past life? 

I think he peed in the witch's orange juice....

Seroiusly Rich, good luck, I know sometimes you want to fling the model into the far wall and toss your tools into the trash

Mike.  I do have a 1/48 R/M F100.  It's the Thunderbirds kit, but at this point I am afraid to start anything with the word sabre in the name. lol

Dom.  I am trying that trick now.  I put down some Tamiya tape to mask as much as possible and I am wet sanding the blob.  It's coming off a little, but it's slow going.

Gamera.  Yeh the wall is looking real good right now.

Rich

Hi Rich, did that DVD show up yet?

Yup.  It just showed up, I was about to let you know. lol.  Thanks!

Rich

Son Of Medicine Man

Hi Rich, did that DVD show up yet?

You are welcome Rich.  Sorry it took so long, I just don't get out very often to where I can find the CD mailer available.

Rich:

Actually it's okay to have it go slow, sometimes too fast

takes off way too much. When it gets thin enough you can treat it

like a smoothing project, if you take a bit too much off

then just the slightest lick of putty scraped to shape with a card

and you'r laughin'.

Yeah, bad luck with models was is only the latest in the bad luck curse.

The witch sent the cats to make it real personal.....lol

Yeh slow is the word.  I spent about 5 total hours wet sanding with progressively finer grit sanding sheets, and so far this is what I have managed to accomplish.

I have wiped out just about all of my sanding sheets, so I can't do anything more on it right now, probably not until next month when I have some more cash to get more sanding sheets.  The putty started breaking up near the wing joint, so I am amazingly, going to have to re-putty that area, and I have a LOT of rescribing work to do on that wing.

Since I am not sure if this will work or not, once I get everything smooth again...  I went to our storage place and rooted around for a while.  I didn't find the kit I wanted to work on, but I did find my Hasegawa 1/48 F104 kit.  I don't really care for the color scheme on the box, but I figure I can use the decals from a defunct Revell kit I have here.  Here are some images.  I started it last night.

Like I said, I don't care for the red markings.

I prefer this set, but unfortunately the kit doesn't supply accurate decals for it.  They have the stripes in a kind of yellow and the tail markings aren't there at all.

A good amount of very detailed parts.  My only gripe with the Hasegawa kits is that their plastic is very thin, and seems pretty fragile.  I'm always afraid when I have to cut one of those tiny detail pieces off of the spru.  There is one tiny little horseshoe shaped part that is the front ejection seat safety actuator, it is almost hair thin and I am not even going to try and attach it until I have finished all the other work on the cockpit tub.

See what I mean about the decals...?

I did this last night before I went up to bed.  At least they give you a decent set of decals for the control consoles and instrument panels.  I will probably put on a bit of decal film before I try and put them on.  Hasegawa kits seem to have kind of thin, somewhat fragile decals.

I'm off to do some more on it.  More pictures when I have enough to make the upload worthwhile.

Rich

Bockscar

Rich:

Actually it's okay to have it go slow, sometimes too fast

takes off way too much. When it gets thin enough you can treat it

like a smoothing project, if you take a bit too much off

then just the slightest lick of putty scraped to shape with a card

and you'r laughin'.

Yeah, bad luck with models was is only the latest in the bad luck curse.

The witch sent the cats to make it real personal.....lol

Hello everyone - I've been MIA for quite awhile with travel, family things, etc., but am trying to get back to the model bench now.  Hope you are all doing well.

Rich - sorry to read about your putty disaster.  I guess I'm a little late to try to help, but have an idea that might have helped (?)  I have found that when I apply putty to a seam that is bordered with tape, I can smooth it out very easily by wiping the excess putty away with regular nail polish remover (the kind with acetone).  Then, it requires very little sanding.  I don't know how that might work with totally cured putty - just a thought.  And good luck with the F-104.  Had a cousin that flew one after his time in F-86s.  He said he transitioned to the F-104 by the book without benefit of simulator or dual.

Have put a little paint on the TF and hope to keep the progress going now.

Also, have been trying to craft the tiny vortex fins that go on the canopy.  Tried to build them from scrap PE at first, but was not too successful so am now trying to fashion them from thin aluminum as follows:

This nonsense is much too tiny for these old eyes and fingers!! 

More later (if I can still see the keyboard).

Buzz

Hi Buzz (the other Ken),

I was beginning to wonder what happened to you.  Great work there once again!     

As a welcome back present, here is a picture my Dad took of a F-102 getting ready to take off from Tan Son Nhut Air Base in Vietnam circa September 1964:

SoMM (the other Ken)

Rich: I dunno, kinda like the Italian Ferrari red there but I can understand how you want something slightly more practical. Looks like the typical high quality Hasegawa kit there.

KBuzz: Kit looks great and it's good to have you back. I think you're insane to try adding those tiny fins though

Ken: Great photo there, heck of some memories behind it I'm sure.

I always loved the Dagger and the Dart.  Two of the coolest looking planes ever to grace the skies.

Son Of Medicine Man

Hi Buzz (the other Ken),

I was beginning to wonder what happened to you.  Great work there once again!     

As a welcome back present, here is a picture my Dad took of a F-102 getting ready to take off from Tan Son Nhut Air Base in Vietnam circa September 1964:

 

SoMM (the other Ken)

Yeh, I like Hasegawa kits, when I can find one I can afford that is.   LOL  I like the red, but my main problem with it is that the primary language of the instructions are Japanese.  And they don't specify which color red it is in English.  Since on the red version, the main paint has to match the decal color red, it's going to be a royal pain trying to figure out which one it is.  The only issue with the other set is that, as you can see from the images, the decals are in a yellowish color, when they should be silver.  If I had a spare set of any Natural metal US version decals here, I would probably do one of those, but I will probably end up stuck with one of the Italian versions.Has anyone ever heard of GSI Creos Aqueous Hobby Color?  They give the color number for that brand but I can't find any info on it to try and find an equivalent.  One other thing is that the kit has two different exhaust nozzles.  One is a longer nozzle which is what the kit call-out is for.  The other is shorter, but has a lot more detail.  I really think it would look better with the shorter nozzle, but I need to find the difference.  I am guessing that they probably used a different engine in the Italian version.  I will zip around the net tonight and see what I can find out.

I got a LOT done on her today.  The cockpit is completed and the fuselage is all buttoned up with the engine installed, and the landing gear bay installed.  I have assembled the wing components.  Each wing came in 5 parts.  Kind on tricky becuse of the really thin styrene, but they came out well.  Tomorrow will be gap filling and this time I will mask the ENTIRE plane....

Here are some images from today.

Here is the completed and painted cockpit module and the stbd fuselage half with the landing gear bay and engine installed.

A closer shot of the cockpit module.  Smetimes I think Hasegawa TRIES to make construction difficult...  If I had completely followed their instructions to the letter, I never would have gotten the seat bottom ejection seat safety actuator loop in there at all.

Here is the fuselage buttoned up with the cockpit installed.

Here we have the nose on as well as the af part of the cockpit and fuselage section.  I also had preliminary painting done for putting on the air intakes.

One of the air intakes before assembly.

And the other one.

And finally, the assembled wing modules, ready for installation after drying overnight.

Rich

Gamera

Rich: I dunno, kinda like the Italian Ferrari red there but I can understand how you want something slightly more practical. Looks like the typical high quality Hasegawa kit there.

KBuzz: Kit looks great and it's good to have you back. I think you're insane to try adding those tiny fins though

Ken: Great photo there, heck of some memories behind it I'm sure.

I read japanese if you want me to try to translate for you.

That would be great!

Here is a scan of the color list.

Here is a higher res scan of the decals themselves

I found two colord I think are close.

One is Humbrol Ferrari Gloss Red Enamel, and the other is Testors Model Master Chrysler Engine Red Gloss Enamel.The missing ones are just the control and instrument panels.

Here's the list 

1 Howaido - White

2Burakku - Black

3 Reddo - Red

4 Ieroo - Yellow

8 Shirubaa - Silver

12 Oriba Drabu - Olive Drab

28 Steel Black

33 Flat Black as it says

47 Kuriaa Reddo - Clear Red

49 Kuriaa Orangi - Clear Orange

50 Kuriaa Buru - Clear Blue

54 Kaaki Gurin - Khaki Green

61 burnt iron

68 Monsarendo i could not figure this one out sorry.

92  Semi gurosu burraku Sami gloss black

137 Taiya Burakku Tire black

317 guree Grey

318 radomu Radome

Sorry for number 68 but that is Gunze MR. Color paint 68.

 EDIT i checked one of my old hasegawa kits and that is the main paint company they use. Probably testors Italian red but not sure of that.

Many many thanks.  I am thinking Red Madder may be the color I need, I will look it up and see what it is.

Frightful6_7

Here's the list 

1 Howaido - White

2Burakku - Black

3 Reddo - Red

4 Ieroo - Yellow

8 Shirubaa - Silver

12 Oriba Drabu - Olive Drab

28 Steel Black

33 Flat Black as it says

47 Kuriaa Reddo - Clear Red

49 Kuriaa Orangi - Clear Orange

50 Kuriaa Buru - Clear Blue

54 Kaaki Gurin - Khaki Green

61 burnt iron

68 Monsarendo i could not figure this one out sorry.

92  Semi gurosu burraku Sami gloss black

137 Taiya Burakku Tire black

317 guree Grey

318 radomu Radome

Sorry for number 68 but that is Gunze MR. Color paint 68.

 EDIT i checked one of my old hasegawa kits and that is the main paint company they use. Probably testors Italian red but not sure of that.