SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

Fw 190 Butcher Bird 2013 (extended to June 2014) Group Build

564930 views
5865 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Thursday, January 24, 2013 7:23 PM

Dora's at 1 minute in. Including the infamous "Blue 12". More shots of stukas and other birds later on;

resources.ushmm.org/.../detail.php

 

 

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: Georgia
Posted by Rigidrider on Thursday, January 24, 2013 3:50 PM

Joe Rix... You sir are absolutely right, and I apologize for "assuming" even if I didn't intend to. I guess kinda like Bish said, we just get used to doing, and thinking that others already know or understand. I will try to do do a better job in the future of being more descriptive... Thank you for bringing that to my attention. I am the type that just loves to share how I do what I do, I just forget that some ,as you said are just starting or returning and dont know what to ask or may be afraid of asking. I have run into a few (but VERY few) modelers who arent just delighted to share with and LEARN from others. Again, if you see Rigidrider or just good ole Doug, Please DO ask.

Bish, I think your right too about pre shading, alot of the time when I'm trying to show Fading or weathering, I shoot the top coat almost straight color then try fading the color with several drops of very light grey or darkening the same way with a few drops of Dark grey , Black and white are just a bit too harsh for my taste. Of corse the mixture is up to your desire and effect, and I highly suggest painting several "test" panels to try on so there are no suprises on your model. I've been known to have 5 or 6 jars of nearly identical colors mixed and lined up from dark to light and then you can see the diff.

Doug

When Life Hands You A Bucket Of Lemons...

Make Lemonade!

Then Sell It Back At $2 Bucks A Glass...

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Thursday, January 24, 2013 10:59 AM

JOE, you make a very good point, and i will hold my hands up and admit to being guilty of not going into much detail of the methods i am useing. I have learnt most, if not all of these, from other people on this site. And as you say, there are a lot of new members, many of whom are either new to the hobby, or returning after a long time away. So your right, we should all try and explain things a little better. I will try to remember that.

Doug, i have not tried pre shadieng at all. I just don't think it suits the darker schemes used on many WW2 aircraft. That and i am happy with the methods i am useing at the minute. If your happy with sludge, then stick to it. That is looking great by the way.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Corpus Christi, Tx
Posted by mustang1989 on Thursday, January 24, 2013 10:16 AM

Doug...............that thing is looking better all the time. Nice weathering on that!

                   

 Forum | Modelers Social Club Forum (proboards.com) 

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: MOAB, UTAH
Posted by JOE RIX on Thursday, January 24, 2013 7:03 AM

Doug - Thank you for sharing that with us. I figured it was likely a grunge wash. The real reason I asked is that in our GB's those of us who have been around awhile tend to post our progress with the assumption that all participants are already savy with most of the skills techniques used in the process. Pics are posted without describing what techniques we used and what paint type, glue, tool etc...were utilized in the process. There has recently been an excellent influx of new members to the Forum and thus, I encourage each of us to maybe use a bit more detail in our progress reports and/or more pics of your process in order to assist those that are new here and to enhance their experience. Heck, I still consider myself rather new and I like to see and hear how you got from point A to point B. Maybe include some pics of the paint, putty, glue, tool etc... used. This is merely a suggestion and one of the many random thoughts that run through my often too busy head. Thank you everyone.

"Not only do I not know what's going on, I wouldn't know what to do about it if I did". George Carlin

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: Georgia
Posted by Rigidrider on Thursday, January 24, 2013 5:01 AM

Thank you Joe R.

For the panel lines I've tried to pre shade, and it just doesn't work for me, I have tried premixed (store bought) wash, and get mixed results, the only thing I really like and have any sucess with is "sludge". Depending on the color, and the desired effect, I start with about 1/4 color,(paint) 3/4 water (thinner) and several drops of liquid dish soap mixed together. You can adjust the mixture as desired. Usually you just dip a fine brush in the mix, and daub it to the area. It will usually run the lines nicely. Again depending on the effect desired a second or third application may or may not be applied. Allow to set for awhile, then dampen a Qtip and remove excess wash. I  dip Qtip in water then squeeze out. Make sure before application that your Gloss coat is dry! if not it will rub off too. After you get it on and are satisfied just apply your dull coat and sit back and admire your work!. The exhaust is airbrushed black then a dark brown , sieanna, or any shade your going for, again depending on the effect you want.

Thanks

Doug

PS Oils work great too, I just like the water clean up better.

When Life Hands You A Bucket Of Lemons...

Make Lemonade!

Then Sell It Back At $2 Bucks A Glass...

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: MOAB, UTAH
Posted by JOE RIX on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 10:48 PM

Looking Sweet Doug. Mind letting me know what you used to highlight/wash the panel lines? They look good. Also nice job on the exhaust.

"Not only do I not know what's going on, I wouldn't know what to do about it if I did". George Carlin

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: Georgia
Posted by Rigidrider on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 7:59 PM

OK guys... a little more decal work... Man, I love that Micro-Sol and Micro-Set. Like they say, For that painted on look. I have ran into some decals that are just plain TOUGH and take alot of work, But most all of the Name brands (Strike Eagle etc) are very easy to work with and just "melt" into the paint,rivets, and body lines. I've slacked off some this week, but I want to make extra sure the paint has set for at least a week before decals... no need to rush the finish.

Doug

When Life Hands You A Bucket Of Lemons...

Make Lemonade!

Then Sell It Back At $2 Bucks A Glass...

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Corpus Christi, Tx
Posted by mustang1989 on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 7:07 PM

Thanks Doug and Joe! Can't wait to clean up some of the mess on the gun platform and start on the wings tomorrow! Progress at last! I was thinking about building the wings minus landing gear, installing them,doing all the sanding and filling, prime and paint the fuselage and wings and then start attaching the engine mounts and engine to the firewall. A little bass ackwards I know but I can't bear the thought of building all of that stuff at the front of the plane ( there is ALOT of stuff up front too) and attempting to mask around that. All I can see is not only something that's difficult to work with but also all of that work being redone due to breakage from handling.

Oh well I've got myself a plan. Hopefully everything goes smoothly. If not...............that's modelling! I do love me a challenge!

                   

 Forum | Modelers Social Club Forum (proboards.com) 

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: MOAB, UTAH
Posted by JOE RIX on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 6:46 PM

Pablon - Welcome to the GB. Sure glad to have you participate and share your 190 with us.

Joe - What can I say  except that your efforts on the recovery is some sweet action. Well done.

"Not only do I not know what's going on, I wouldn't know what to do about it if I did". George Carlin

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Corpus Christi, Tx
Posted by mustang1989 on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 6:13 PM

handiabled

 

 

                        Looking at the tabs it looks like it needs to slide back tward the rear about 2 or 3 mm  I guess with the halves together slide it more back and see if it gets happy ,,  imo    hth

 

                                                                           

Hey Brent! I almost forgot to thank you but I was thinking earlier today, "hey I saw a post from Brent on the 190 forum". Thanks a million. You did make me look twice. Just glad I'm over THIS hump.

                   

 Forum | Modelers Social Club Forum (proboards.com) 

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Corpus Christi, Tx
Posted by mustang1989 on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 6:10 PM

Good to have you in here pablon! I already have you down in the intro post. Lets go!

                   

 Forum | Modelers Social Club Forum (proboards.com) 

  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: Córdoba, Argentina
Posted by pablon77 on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 4:12 PM
I would like to join with an 1/48 th Eduard FW-190A8 R2

Time is money... el tiempo es un maní

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: Georgia
Posted by Rigidrider on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 4:12 PM

WHEW!!! Glad you got it Joe... that was a close one! (grin) Seriously, shes looking great! Looking forward to seeing more.

Doug

When Life Hands You A Bucket Of Lemons...

Make Lemonade!

Then Sell It Back At $2 Bucks A Glass...

  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: N. Georgia
Posted by Jester75 on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 12:20 PM

That wing looks perfect now! And a cup of tea to boot!!

Eric

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 12:13 PM

Mustang, nice save on both accounts. I can't say i have had any problems with warped kits (touch wood). But now i know what to do if i do.

Joe, i am more worried about the cold getting to mine. they are in an brick shed and its been getting down to -8 here. When it warms up a bit, i think i will have to check through.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Corpus Christi, Tx
Posted by mustang1989 on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 11:45 AM

Thanks Nathan, Joe and Jester! After seeing that wing the way it was I decided to make some tea. So I boiled a little water but just before the boiling point I dipped the wing in for about 5 seconds and straightened her out. Updated photo of the wing taken while I was enjoying a glass of iced cold tea here at lunch:

                   

 Forum | Modelers Social Club Forum (proboards.com) 

  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: N. Georgia
Posted by Jester75 on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 8:25 AM

Grats on getting the warp out of that one Joe!! It didnt even look like the firewall was for that kit in the earlier pictures you posted.

Eric

 

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 8:20 AM

Glad you got it Joe! Now you can move on with the build. Might wanna dry fit the windscreen quick to make sure the tops of the fuselage are closed in enough. The wing warp is nasty though. Will glueing the wing halves together straighten it out?

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Corpus Christi, Tx
Posted by mustang1989 on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 7:33 AM

Thanks Joe. You won't notice anything warped.....until you start building. I checked this one a couple of times just because I spent so much money on it and didn't notice anything either. As far as how I corrected it? A hair dryer and immediately after 5 minutes of heating positioned the firewall, glued into place and held it with my friggin hands for 25 minutes. Did you know thats enough time to drink two cups of coffee, look over the kit  instructions and let 3 dogs out? I didn't! It felt like an eternity!

 Just wanted to make sure that it stayed!

                   

 Forum | Modelers Social Club Forum (proboards.com) 

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: MOAB, UTAH
Posted by JOE RIX on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 6:38 AM

Good Show Joe! So, how did you correct the warp on the fuselage? I understand kits sitting in a storage with an uncontrolled environment. I have some 40+ kits in my old school bus that kits up to130+ degrees plus inside. I check them each year and so far I haven't noticed any real damage. Yet.

"Not only do I not know what's going on, I wouldn't know what to do about it if I did". George Carlin

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Corpus Christi, Tx
Posted by mustang1989 on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 6:18 AM

Thanks for you all's input and help here. It all got me thinking....

                   

 Forum | Modelers Social Club Forum (proboards.com) 

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Corpus Christi, Tx
Posted by mustang1989 on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 6:17 AM

Hey guys. Got it. I finally got the thing to fit. There's a little clean up to do but I have it. It WAS warped dangit! I have two photos: The first is the firewall now glued into place. Just have to tidy up a bit and that'll be done. The second photo is the wing. At the left hand side you can see just how badly warped it is. I guess thats what 7 years of sitting in a stash in the garage will do at god only knows what temperatures at times. Here goes:

                   

 Forum | Modelers Social Club Forum (proboards.com) 

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: Georgia
Posted by Rigidrider on Tuesday, January 22, 2013 4:18 PM

Hey Joe...

When I did my pit, it was a Verlinden for a Hasagawa and I am doing a Revell, Now to get it to Fit I had to do a considerable amount of trimming and fitting to get it into into the fuselage. No way you should heat or squeeze. A little maybe but not what your having to do now. A little hint...Paint the sides and edges of the pit with a water color like paint and insert into fuselage, then remove, any where paint is missing , shave a bit off the bare spot, then repete, little by little you will see it getting deeper and deeper until it fits. I used to carve and inlet custom rifle stocks and that was the process I used, except I used a hurricane lamp and got the action sooty. Where ever I saw soot on the wood, I would remove just that (at first) spot, before long the action was bedded into the stock and if careful and done properly  it looked as if the wood was poured and hardened around the action. You got something standing you off the fuselage walls Bud, likely the width of the new resin?

When Life Hands You A Bucket Of Lemons...

Make Lemonade!

Then Sell It Back At $2 Bucks A Glass...

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Tuesday, January 22, 2013 1:30 PM

...Also make sure the cockpit is slid back as far as its supposed to go.

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2011
  • From: minnesota
Posted by handiabled on Tuesday, January 22, 2013 12:48 PM

 

 

                        Looking at the tabs it looks like it needs to slide back tward the rear about 2 or 3 mm  I guess with the halves together slide it more back and see if it gets happy ,,  imo    hth

 

                                                                           

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Tuesday, January 22, 2013 12:44 PM

Wow Joe! Somethings way off, if you still get that great of gap when the firewall is lined up against the fuselage tabs....Is there any PE detail sticking out that is getting in the way? Is the cockpit lined up in the right spot in the fuselage? Is everything just dry fitted?, or did you glue the fuselage halves together already?

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Corpus Christi, Tx
Posted by mustang1989 on Tuesday, January 22, 2013 12:12 PM

Ok guys. I have two pictures and this is with me squeezing the sides of the fuselage together to try to retain the firewall into the fuselage while the other hand is holding the camera. The pictures show the firewall and the tabs not lined up but when I have two hands free to line them up I still end up with the nasty gap at the windscreen mounting area at the very top and the gap between the firewall and the fuselage, UNLESS I squeeze the very top of the fuselage together where the windscreen goes. Then everything lines up. Anyhow I am open to any avenues of approach that will yield a good fit as I know that this is a very critical stage of the build. Thanks you all, Joe

                   

 Forum | Modelers Social Club Forum (proboards.com) 

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Tuesday, January 22, 2013 8:27 AM

Nice choice Matt. Just finished that kit myself. You're in for a pretty solid build IMO. Just take care on the wings as the lower wing tips are warped. Joe, we need pics to help man! No way should you need heat! Somethings not where it should be....is the firewall sitting against the tabs on the fuselage sides?

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Corpus Christi, Tx
Posted by mustang1989 on Tuesday, January 22, 2013 7:36 AM

Ok gang. I have been having a little problem with mine the last couple of days. The Eduard way of doing things is smart in a way but hindering me a little. I am attemptinig to install the cockpit and firewall. I made it to the cockpit between the fuselage halves and have an issue with the top of the fuselage at the front bending or flexing at the right angle so that I don't have a gap between the machine gun mount/firewall at the top of the fuselage when assembled. I have to heat and twist the fuselage. I have the inside of the fuselage painted so unless I want to totally strip the paint from inside the fuselage then hot water isn't my ticket. I've given thought to a blow dryer to heat the halves so I could accomplish my feat here. Anybody got any ideas? Will post pictures later this morning/ lunch.

                   

 Forum | Modelers Social Club Forum (proboards.com) 

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.