1/72 O' Mania!!!

This working for a living is seriously cutting into my modelling time. Haven't been home before 7:00pm all week. today it 9:00. I don't want to start decaling my builds and fall asleep at the bench. John

Are cross overs welcome? I will be doing a Minicraft 1/72 B-24J Liberator - The Dragon and His Tail for the Natural Metal Finish GB, I haven't started that yet. Looks like there will be plenty of time.

Taps, my build is a cross over, so i think your ok.

Bish

Taps, my build is a cross over, so i think your ok.

Thanks Bish, I guess I'm in then.

Here's my kit:

Acquired a Reference copy of the WC-51 with 1:72 decals included. Airbrushed the chassis and body with AK Yellow Primer.

Looking forward to seeing how that builds up Eric. I have the Hasegawa version of the kit with those markings, so will be nice to compare it.

Bruce, that's looking good.

Ok I'm back guys, very sorry for not updating regularly. Anyway I'm back on the bench with the Vietnam Air War GB. I will update both threads.

Welcome back Tcepilot !

Bish

Looking forward to seeing how that builds up Eric. I have the Hasegawa version of the kit with those markings, so will be nice to compare it.

Bruce, that's looking good.

Bish,

To be honest, this is one build that I'm worried about. In the past, I have done Tamiya's 1/16 Tiger 1 RC, with a ton of add-ons and photo etched parts. The kit alone, was big $. I am more concerned about this build.

This Liberator is also in the NMF GB. I have never done one...............yep, never.....ever!  I was too afraid of messing up.

Well, the time has come to learn some new skills, which I why I bought the kit, in the first place.

The past few days, I have been doing research on NMF and really not sure what paint to use. Alclad and Tamiya sprays have my attention. Although, I'm an airbrush guy, I like the control. Not sure how good of controlled coverage, I can get with those Tamiya sprays.  I have also read that, you have to make sure that your construction is almost dead on. No forgiveness with the metal finish. A tough task when doing a bomber.

Seems like no pressure at all....  I'm up for it though. Like I posted in the other GB...Go big or go home!

I admire you for doing this as your first NMF. I have been working up to larger NMF builds using Alclad. I do like the results, but I have found it tricky to use. Of the 3 builds so far, all have things I am not happy with. I want to practice more on some smaller builds before I do something big. The construction does have to be spot on when using Alclad at least, it will show up any mark or scratch.

Don't worry to much, Eric! I'm sure you are able to pull this off! I can only recommend the Alclad paints. They are perfect for airbrushing (you don't even have to thin them down) and produce a nice finish when you do it right. The tricky part should be getting the surface nice and flawless (any mistake will be visible when painting a NMF scheme) and getting a nice base coat. You want the surface and the basecoat as smooth as possible, or you'll end up with a very dull finish (which looks good on some models though)

I've only done a single NMF bird before, so my builds for the NMF GB are going to be as challenging as yours

Cheers, Clemens

Bish / Clemens,

Thanks for the vote of confidence!

I will not be running through that build quickly at all. So, I will be extra careful.

Now, Bish, What problems did you have with the Alclad? If both of you have any pointers, please let me know.

Either let me know here or message me PLEASE!

I have another tipp for ya, mate! Don't ever use Alclad's microfiller as a base coat! You will end up with a dull finish, no matter what you do about it.

Eric:  you could also consider Floquil model RR paints.  I haven't used Alclad and once I tried Testors MM Aluminum, but didn't care for the results.

Anyway, for an example, here is Academy's original B-17C, done up with Floquil some years ago. 

The problem on the horizon is that Testors acquired Floquil a while back, and recently announced discontinuing that label along with the Polly S brand, so I don't know if the same paint will be available under the Testors brand.  Currently it's still available, and Floquil's silvers come in three varieties:  Platinum Mist, Bright Silver and Old Silver.  I can't tell them apart, though, once they are on the model.

As with any metallic finish, you still have to be sure to remove all scratch marks, sanding marks, blemishes, etc., since they show up really well.  Usually it means polishing the plastic.  For that, I just use toothpaste.

The Douglas Devastator I'm working on for this GB had a NMF interior, and I used Floquil there.  I just haven't gotten around to posting any photos.

Whatever you end up doing, practicing first with a new technique on something that doesn't matter is a good thing to do, rather than risk ruining the major project.

And good luck to you!

checkmateking02

Eric:  you could also consider Floquil model RR paints.  I haven't used Alclad and once I tried Testors MM Aluminum, but didn't care for the results.

Anyway, for an example, here is Academy's original B-17C, done up with Floquil some years ago. 

 

The problem on the horizon is that Testors acquired Floquil a while back, and recently announced discontinuing that label along with the Polly S brand, so I don't know if the same paint will be available under the Testors brand.  Currently it's still available, and Floquil's silvers come in three varieties:  Platinum Mist, Bright Silver and Old Silver.  I can't tell them apart, though, once they are on the model.

As with any metallic finish, you still have to be sure to remove all scratch marks, sanding marks, blemishes, etc., since they show up really well.  Usually it means polishing the plastic.  For that, I just use toothpaste.

The Douglas Devastator I'm working on for this GB had a NMF interior, and I used Floquil there.  I just haven't gotten around to posting any photos.

Whatever you end up doing, practicing first with a new technique on something that doesn't matter is a good thing to do, rather than risk ruining the major project.

And good luck to you!

 

That's a nice looking build!

One confusing thing, that I have run into with researching this: some people say the base coat has to be gloss black, others say not necessary. Any advice? Does it (gloss black base coat) matter on which brand of paint I ultimately go with?

I've also read that people normally mask with post-it notes..so any masking tape or painters tape, is out of the question?

***EDIT*** I have something in my stash, that I started working on this afternoon. It's an old Testors F2H-2 Banshee. This will be my test subject. It's not 1/72 but will give me an idea of what I'm doing, for the NMF:

checkmate: that's a nice NMF bird! I like the look of it, although I still prefer Alclad for NMF...

Eric: You don't have to use a black base-coat, although it gives you the best results. The only really important thing to do is to get a nice and even coat on your model. Tamiya's gloss black (TS-14) works really well, if you spray it on with an airbrush...

You should have a look at this

I got this link from Cliff (Gamera). That is how I'll try to paint my big Mustang for the NMF GB. I won't use that exact paints on my Thunderbolts though, because I want them to be (only a little bit) less shiny to look more rugged...

I hope I could help

Cheers, Clemens

Taps88

Bish / Clemens,

Thanks for the vote of confidence!

I will not be running through that build quickly at all. So, I will be extra careful.

Now, Bish, What problems did you have with the Alclad? If both of you have any pointers, please let me know.

Either let me know here or message me PLEASE!

I think the problems I had were all self inflicted. I have heard a lot of good comments about Alclad, so I am sure it wasn't that. I use Humbrol black gloss as an undercoat. On the first one I didn't polish it, and when I polished the Alclad, there was a few lumps and bumps in the black and those came through. On my second build I masked some of the panels to give them different shades and when I lifted the tap some of the Alclad came up. I think someone suggested I may not have left the black long enough to sure. On the final one, some patches of Alclad bubbled up. I may have had some airbrush cleaner residue left in the airbrush. So with all these lessons learnt, hopefully my next attempt will be a good one. I might be doing a MiG for the NMF GB, if I can fit it in.

Erich:  when using Floquil I just paint it over the bare plastic.  It doesn't need any kind of undercoat, but it seems some finishes do.

Sorry I missed your question about masking, Eric.  

Again, I can only speak about the Floquil.  It's pretty tough.  I thin it with lacquer thinner, in about a one-to-one ratio.  Once it dries, I use regular painters' masking tape, with a low tack, and usually it doesn't pull up.  I do let it cure a fairly long time--maybe a week or two, just to be sure.

NMF's can be fragile.

Bish

Taps88

Bish / Clemens,

Thanks for the vote of confidence!

I will not be running through that build quickly at all. So, I will be extra careful.

Now, Bish, What problems did you have with the Alclad? If both of you have any pointers, please let me know.

Either let me know here or message me PLEASE!

I think the problems I had were all self inflicted. I have heard a lot of good comments about Alclad, so I am sure it wasn't that. I use Humbrol black gloss as an undercoat. On the first one I didn't polish it, and when I polished the Alclad, there was a few lumps and bumps in the black and those came through. On my second build I masked some of the panels to give them different shades and when I lifted the tap some of the Alclad came up. I think someone suggested I may not have left the black long enough to sure. On the final one, some patches of Alclad bubbled up. I may have had some airbrush cleaner residue left in the airbrush. So with all these lessons learnt, hopefully my next attempt will be a good one. I might be doing a MiG for the NMF GB, if I can fit it in.

As it goes with a lot of what we do modeling, there's a learning curve where you kind of mess around and try things, until you find a system that seems to work.

And then, the manufacturers change things, and we're back where we started.

Since today is June 4th, I will enter this GB commemorating the Battle of Midway's 71st anniversary with an A6M2 Type 0, and a Douglas SBD Dauntless. Additionally, since June 6th is just around the corner I will also do a C-47 in honor of Operation Overlord.

Torque92

Since today is June 4th, I will enter this GB commemorating the Battle of Midway's 71st anniversary with an A6M2 Type 0, and a Douglas SBD Dauntless. Additionally, since June 6th is just around the corner I will also do a C-47 in honor of Operation Overlord.

  ... Check up with me at the Vietnam Air War GB. I just extended it for another year.

That is a nice looking pile of scrap, tcepilot!

This week I started on this thing. I plan to do the aircraft depicted on the box top.

Firstly I cajoled a Pavla resin bang seat to fit into the cockpit.

Basic construction goes pretty well. The difficult seams are around the nose cone, the intakes and the rear fuselage.

I replaced the pitot with Microtube.

Tamiya aerosol fine white primer. The first coat revealed that I need to work a bit hard on some seams.

Finally got some of the yellow down. It's Gunze #4 yellow as recommended by the kit instructions. I love the lines of the Draken, seems to me that it looks how a jet fighter should look.

Cheers

Tony

Really nice-looking, Tony.  The yellow is very eye-catching.

Looking good Tony, I do like the yellow.

How was the pavla set.

That yellow is very catchy - looks good.

I'm still trying to truck through my CF-18, buts its being painful in the seams.  More gaps then I like to fill......

Looking good, Tony!

That is going to be an eye catcher for sure!

You Guys are doing Fantastic!! Did some painting on the Dodge WC-51.

Wow you guys are doing a great job. I've got to get motivated. work is killing me.  John