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Longest Day GB

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  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Wednesday, April 9, 2014 2:08 PM

silentbob33

I was thinking the same thing Stik, I have more .50s than I know what to do with now.  I'm sure I'll think of something though...

As much as I enjoy Italeri armor kits, their .50s are pretty anemic. I like to replace them with my Academy Ma Deuces.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Wednesday, April 9, 2014 12:31 PM

I know, you never even see them lose on the vehicle. I don't know if they can be un clipped or just broke off.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Wednesday, April 9, 2014 11:54 AM

Ahhh, that's pretty cool Bish. Thanks I learned something today, I've never seen the chain fitted like that!

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Wednesday, April 9, 2014 11:47 AM

Thanks gamera. That bit running down to the front MG mount is a chain for the cover that goes over the front of the mount. Its not seen much, but I decided to fit it as I am doing a tank away from the front line. This is one of few pics I have seen of it being used.

I just thought it would be something a little different. 

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Wednesday, April 9, 2014 11:41 AM

Trabi: Just friggin' fantastic! I love the bridge and all the extra work you put in there. Super cool work on something you don't see every day!

Bob: Nice work on the MGs!

Bish: Gorgeous work on the Panther, the drybrushing does look great on the zimmerit. Only question is about the cable running from the the headlight would be mounted into the front mg mount, did I miss your explanation?  

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Wednesday, April 9, 2014 8:31 AM

Thanks. I did just one layer of dry brushing using MiG's oil for 3 colour camo. I was not sure about using it, but I rather like it.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by SchattenSpartan on Wednesday, April 9, 2014 8:23 AM

She's looking absolutely gorgeous, mate! Your drybrushing really brings out the nice Zimmerit texture while not being too much to make it look wierd. Simply amazing work!

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Wednesday, April 9, 2014 6:08 AM

I think its about time I did an update. I keep getting carried away and forgetting to take pics. So better do so while I remember.

After adding the decals, the whole thing was sealed with future/Tamiya Flat base mix. I then gave it a very thin wash and a light bit of dry brushing, I don't want to go to heavy on this as it should be a pretty new vehicle on its way to the front. It was then sealed again with the same mix and I have now started adding the tools. I am just waiting for the wooden handles to dry before adding those. So here is where it stands.

Next up will be to finish the tracks and once added to dust and a little bit of chipping. 

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    February 2014
  • From: Michigan
Posted by silentbob33 on Tuesday, April 8, 2014 5:23 AM

I was thinking the same thing Stik, I have more .50s than I know what to do with now.  I'm sure I'll think of something though...

On my bench: Academy 1/35 UH-60L Black Hawk

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Monday, April 7, 2014 11:06 PM

I wish... ;-)

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    July 2013
  • From: Talent, OR
Posted by bitbite on Monday, April 7, 2014 10:46 PM

And another $5 in stik's pocket. Wink

"Resist the urge to greedily fondle the parts . . ." - Sheperd Paine "Modeling Tanks and Military Vehicles" Page 5

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Monday, April 7, 2014 10:41 PM

A great purchase, aren't they? Just wait til you need some .50's on a project...

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    February 2014
  • From: Michigan
Posted by silentbob33 on Monday, April 7, 2014 8:19 PM

I had some time tonight so I got the LCVP ready for decals, have most of the stowage assembled and painted, and I got the machine guns together.  I really like the Academy guns, a lot of detail in a small package.

On my bench: Academy 1/35 UH-60L Black Hawk

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Monday, April 7, 2014 6:48 PM

Most impressive AVRE now! Excellent!!!

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: New Jersey
Posted by 68GT on Monday, April 7, 2014 4:51 PM

WOW, I love it!

I'm going to sand down the stripes some, mask and shoot with Tamiya X-2 & their 87077 Lacquer thinner. It's the only white I like right now through the airbrush.

On Ed's bench, ???

  

  • Member since
    September 2007
  • From: Finland funland
Posted by Trabi on Monday, April 7, 2014 4:25 PM

It´s not paint if it doesn´t smell thinner

 

Well, instead of painting those markings I decided to put sticks under my fingernails. Way more painless. I managed to cut off all transparent parts from decals. Looks fine to me.

I added two rolls of tarpaulin on sides of turret. I made those from toilet paper (Not used, color comes from paint). Also I found picture where was small fascine onboard of BL AVRE. I cut electrical wire in lenght and peeled it. Then I took small sheaf of it at the time and slightly bend it in curves. Then I put all sheafs together and tied them. Few layers of paint and done.

From pictures I noticed that some touch up painting is still needed. Otherwise it´s done.

Also I made wooden stand for it.

"Space may be the final frontier, but it´s made in Hollywood basement." RHCP, Californication

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Monday, April 7, 2014 11:39 AM

Yeah, I've had that happen before when the paint dried too fast. Not to that scale though. And almost always with light colours- like the white you used here or yellow.

Then again I've sanded it off and applied it slower and got the same cracks so it might be surface issues.

Sorry, I'm just shooting in the dark, I've had it happen few enough times to form some working theory of what's going on. I know the feeling of wanting to toss the blasted thing at the far wall and then stomp on the remains.

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Sunday, April 6, 2014 9:02 PM

"It is not life that counts, but a man"

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    July 2013
  • From: Talent, OR
Posted by bitbite on Sunday, April 6, 2014 8:29 PM

Aye, a short life but a merry one!  DrinksPirate

"Resist the urge to greedily fondle the parts . . ." - Sheperd Paine "Modeling Tanks and Military Vehicles" Page 5

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Sunday, April 6, 2014 7:44 PM

Lol! We're all gonna die one day, no matter how healthy we may or may not try to live ;-) enjoy the ride!

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Sunday, April 6, 2014 7:09 PM

Stik,

You're a hardier soul than I am. I wouldn't be modelling if acrylics hadn't come out.

Eric

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: New Jersey
Posted by 68GT on Sunday, April 6, 2014 5:08 PM

The green and silver paint are MM enamel and have been on there a few weeks and the aluminum is their Metelizer which I think is a lacquer.  The Future has had 5-7 days to cure so that shouldn't be a problem.

Straight from the jar I don't think I should have had this problem since I didn't add anything. It's nice and smooth with no clumps also. I think I'm going to have to trash the paint.

On Ed's bench, ???

  

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Sunday, April 6, 2014 4:58 PM

Enamels. Enough said.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Sunday, April 6, 2014 4:34 PM

Polyscale uses an agent that includes glycol ethers.  I've used it with generally good results in the past but do recall that the stuff can do odd things. A gent on a railroad board had trouble with clumping when he used PS thinner (I'd bet it had alcohol in it - I've seen that happen) and here's what Testors support told him:

"Dear Nelson,

We received your question concerning the Poly S thinner. You may have

done nothing wrong, sometimes there is a chemical breakdown with the thinner and when it is mixed with paint the clumping occurs. Weapologize for any inconvenience that this may have caused you. Pleasesend the paint and the thinner back to us at 440 Blackhawk Park Ave Rockford, IL 61104 Attn: customer service. When we are in receipt of the merchandise, we will be happy to replace x2 what was ruined. In place of the Polly S airbrush thinner, we will be sending you Acryl airbrush thinner, which is an excellent product and is not known to have the same problems. <customer service persons name edited out>Testors Customer Service"

You didn't have the same problem. When I see cracking like that, I'm thinking differences in drying time. PS dries very quickly and Pledge/Future is dry to the touch in 20 minutes but isn't cured for 24 hours - real possibility that as the Future dried and shrunk it cracked the already dry Poly S. I'd like to tell you there's an easy fix here - but I'd be thinking of stripping the paint (ISP works nicely) and starting over. If you want to use Poly Scale paints it might be a good idea to track down the Acryl thinner - or at least mix the stuff in a cup before putting it into the airbrush and watch for clumping. ISP or A-20 should work, but sometimes they don't. (If I was cutting PS with ISP I'd make sure some flow retarder was in it - PS and ISP both dry really fast and tip clog would happen easily.) Unless you're using something like Vallejo Model Air and are sure the consistency is right, it's never a good idea to mix paint inside the airbrush.

I'm not sure whether using Pledge/Future as thinner would help or not. I use it as part of my brew for thinning Vallejo Model Color paints and it works nicely there. But Future is a liquid acrylic so it's closely related to the polymer agents found in paints like Vallejo - wouldn't guarantee results with solvent based paints like Tamiya but it would be an interesting idea to try if you don't mind a satin finish. Water can probably be used in any acrylic but only in small quantities - maybe 10% - use a lot of it and the paint will spray but the finish will be poor because the paint's structure will break down.

The one thing you did that I don't is to seal the acrylic base with Pledge and then put more acrylic on top. The only time I did that was when I did the P51 MKIII for this build. As noted earlier I weathered the plane completely and then put the stripes on at the end. I distinctly remember letting the plane dry at least 24 hours because I knew I was going to be masking over the Pledge and wanted it fully cured so the tape wouldn't pull anything off..

Everybody gets hit with paint strangeness sometimes. That's one good reason to stay with one brand and there's no doubt Tamiya is the most airbrush friendly paint on the market. It dries so fast that some folk have trouble with clogging or a rough finish but those problems are easily handled by thinning the stuff with Tamiya or Gunze lacquer thinner (A-20 is not as good - it works and many good modelers have learned to use it but that's testimony to skill not A-20). That will keep a nice flow and because lacquer thinner dries much slower than A-20 (mostly ISP) it helps with both tip clogging and rough surface. It also allows a thin mixture which makes Tamiya extremely easy to clean - I use 30-50% thinner in normal circumstances when using Tamiya with lacquer thinner. (Not hardware store lacquers - that stuff is much too strong and will attack plastic. Stick with Tamiya or Gunze's own brand - either work fine.) So there's good reason for Tamiya's popularity. (Gunze is basically the same as Tamiya in my experience.)  I've used MM only rarely and can't comment. All other brands like Vallejo and Polly S require a learning curve. (If you don't have one get a "medical experiment" kit for use as a lab rat. I've got a Revell P-38 that's a poor kit but has helped me through many problems - you should see the color scheme it has now.)  I think it's worth the effort to master Vallejo, but wouldn't hesitate to recommend Tamiya for modelers who don't want to their head against wall a few times when the airbrush betrays them.

Eric

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: New Jersey
Posted by 68GT on Sunday, April 6, 2014 3:44 PM

I could see if I thinned it but this came straight out of the jar.  I use to use Poly S all the time but that was way before Testors bought them up.  They must have changed the formula.  I swear the MM enamel smells differently than it did back in the 80s also.

On Ed's bench, ???

  

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: ON, Canada
Posted by jgeratic on Sunday, April 6, 2014 2:12 PM

I've had that happen also, but can't recall what brand of flat acrylic.  

Partly as a pre-caution, and as a way of thinning acrylics, I always add a few drops of future clear.  This way, if spraying over a gloss, this problem should not crop up.

regards,

Jack

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Sunday, April 6, 2014 1:49 PM

I had that happen on my Graf Spee build a couple years back with Testors MM Marine Colors Acryl White. It is the only time that has happened to me. Although it was over Gunze Aqueous, not any enamel. I went back, sanded it smooth with fine and extra fine grit sanding sticks. I went back and checked my thread where that happened and it was recommended to reduce the amount of thinner in the paint mix ratio. That worked on the respray after the sanding clean up. Not perfect because the old cracked texture showed thru under the final top coat, but you have to look real close and real hard to see it.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: New Jersey
Posted by 68GT on Sunday, April 6, 2014 10:26 AM

Makes me think there is too much thinner but I didn't add any.  

On Ed's bench, ???

  

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: New Jersey
Posted by 68GT on Sunday, April 6, 2014 10:08 AM

Not sure.  I've never painted with this stuff over future before and it did the same thing over enamel.  I just bought the paint a few months ago so it was an unopened jar

I should have sprayed it with Tamiya and called it a day.

On Ed's bench, ???

  

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Sunday, April 6, 2014 9:35 AM

Now that's not good. Never had this happen before. Could it be old paint, or do you think its whats underneath.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

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