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1944 Group Build

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  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Sunday, December 7, 2014 2:41 PM

wow check, she is an absolute beaut. I can't believe that only a couple of days ago she was still not fully assembled. But I can certainly see the logic of painting all those sections before fitting. Would you do that for every ship or does it depend on the scheme.

Amazing work buddy, thank for delivering her in the GB. And completed on Dec 7th as well, that had to be planned. Wink

One question, the Battle Stars. Were they awarded for each battle participated in, sort of like campaign medals.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Sunday, December 7, 2014 2:34 PM

JOE RIX

Holy Smokes Stik, That is some really tremendous modeling for busting a nad on it. It looks great.  Congratulations on such an excellent effort and for the deadline finish.

Thanks Bish, this really has been a fantastic GB. I'm dang sure participating the '45 GB. Bummed I missed out on the previous years.

Its been a pleasure. I only joined in for the 43 GB, which I think was the second one.

But, the fates willing, we will all be around for 2019 and we can start at the beginning. So start planning ahead Wink

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Sunday, December 7, 2014 2:31 PM

U.S.S. North Carolina (BB-55) was the lead ship in the North Carolina-class of battleship, of which there was only one other:  U.S.S. Washington.  Her keel was laid down on 27 October, 1937 (New York Naval Shipyard), she was launched on 13 June, 1940 , and commissioned on 9 April, 1941.  She is considered the first of the U.S. Navy’s “fast battleships,” and the first to be built in at least sixteen years.  Her design was influenced and limited by the Washington Naval Treaty and the London Naval Treaty.  Captain Olaf M. Hustvedt was in command.

Scheduled to transit to the Pacific Ocean in early 1942, the attack on Pearl Harbor found BB-55 still on the east coast, where she was ordered to remain as a counter to a potential excursion by the German battleship Tirpitz. 

By summer 1942, she was ordered to the Pacific, and arrived four days after the battle of Midway.  She was assigned to the task force centered on U.S.S. Enterprise (CV-6).

North Carolina took part in the Guadalcanal campaign (the only U.S. battleship in the South Pacific at that time), and participated in the Battle of the Eastern Solomons in August, 1942.  Here, she helped provide anti-aircraft defense for Enterprise, and is credited with destroying between seven and fourteen enemy aircraft.  Her volume of fire was so massive and intense, that she was signaled by Enterprise:  “Are you afire?”  In fact, North Carolina was undamaged, but suffered one sailor killed. 

On 15 September, 1942, she was damaged at the bow in the Japanese attack that sank the carrier U.S.S. Wasp.

In November, 1943, she participated in the Gilbert Islands campaign and in 1944 the Marshall Islands campaign, the Marianas and the Battle of the Philippine Sea.  After the latter encounter, she returned to Puget Sound Naval Yard for a major overhaul, which was finished in October.  When she emerged, she carried the particular design of Measure 32/18d in which she is depicted here.

On her return to the theater of combat, by November, she was assigned to Admiral Wm. Halsey’s Task Force 38, and survived Typhoon Cobra.  The year 1945 took her to both Iwo Jima and Okinawa.  The rest of the year, until the Japanese surrender, saw North Carolina involved in various raids and serving in the screen protecting U.S. naval carriers.  She sailed into Tokyo Bay on 5 September, 1945.

BB-55 was decommissioned on 27 June, 1947, and remained on the Navy List until 1 June, 1960.  In 1961, she was transferred to the State of North Carolina for a price of $330,000.  A memorial museum was dedicated in April, 1962, and you can still visit U.S.S. North Carolina at Wilmington, North Carolina:

http://www.battleshipnc.com/ 

U.S.S. North Carolina was armed with nine 16-inch guns, twenty 5-inch guns, fifteen quad 40mm AA guns and forty-six single 20mm cannon.  She earned fifteen battle stars during World War Ii, and was affectionately known as “the Showboat.” 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: MOAB, UTAH
Posted by JOE RIX on Saturday, December 6, 2014 7:58 PM

Holy Smokes Stik, That is some really tremendous modeling for busting a nad on it. It looks great.  Congratulations on such an excellent effort and for the deadline finish.

Thanks Bish, this really has been a fantastic GB. I'm dang sure participating the '45 GB. Bummed I missed out on the previous years.

"Not only do I not know what's going on, I wouldn't know what to do about it if I did". George Carlin

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Saturday, December 6, 2014 7:26 PM

Thanks, Bish.  Kept on working in the shipyards today.  Have to add the secondary battery and the float planes--then she'll launch.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Saturday, December 6, 2014 7:24 PM

Good grief, stik, you're fast!  And what a great looking u-boat!  Exceptional!  It looks great.

And thanks for informing me on the conning tower.  Although I like to build ships, I don't know the nomenclature at all.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Saturday, December 6, 2014 5:35 PM

Guys, I want to thank you all for all the great work your doing and for all the help and advice that's being given out here. This is what really attracted me to GB's back in 2008. Its such a pleasure to be associated with such a great bunch who are happy to spend the time to help and encourage others.

We are now in the last 4 weeks and look like we are having a late flurry of builds, great job all.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Saturday, December 6, 2014 5:31 PM

William, some good advice from Eric there. Look forward to seeing some pics of that build.

Check, some more great work there, can't wait to see the end result.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Saturday, December 6, 2014 5:28 PM

Nomad, don't be so hard on yourself. You have done a nice job on this and the important thing is you have learned how to do things different next time. And it is important to know when to say enough, I am sure we all have those moments. If you don't, you either end up doing more harm than good or just drive yourself nuts. And most importantly you have stuck with it.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Saturday, December 6, 2014 5:25 PM

Holy smoke Stik. I didn't even get a chance to comment on the progress and now your done.  And its a lovely job you have done as well. Great looking build and thanks for adding it here.

I do like those comparison pics, especially that last one. I have both those boats in 72nd, nice to get n idea of the difference.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Saturday, December 6, 2014 4:52 PM

Check, that oval structure is the Armored Conning Tower. I recently went on board the Iowa here and that portion of the ship is quite impressive. The tubular object on top is likely some sort of optics like a rotating persicope.

Well the last in progress photo that I took was this morning of my U-Boat- Future coat on and ready for decals

then since I was building at a relaxed pace this year, I did the rest of the finishing, decals and wash, without any more progress photos. So at 1419 hrs PST, I am calling this one done for the purposes of the Weekend Madness GB. Gentlemen (and any Ladies who may happen to be looking in) I present Bronco's Type IXC U-Boat in the guise of U-505 on her final war patrol, May/June 1944.

I also took some comparison photos of this Type IX with some other 1/350 subs

with an IJN Fleet Submarine, I-19

with a modern 688 Flight II SSN

and with a Type VIIC U-Boat

I will probably at a later time add some drybrushing on the hull for marine growth and add some rigging before I take it to IPMS in a couple of weeks, but this build is pretty much done now

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Saturday, December 6, 2014 12:19 PM

Some photos of completed sub-assemblies.

First, the oval structure, with radar attached.  I don't know what the little thing in the front is; I had to scratch build it from plastic rod, since the kit piece went flying out of the tweezers and disappeared when I was cleaning up the mold seam.

Right behind the oval sits the structure with the foremast and PE SK II radar dish.

 

Finally, the midship structure with stack.

After I took these photos, I glued the structures in place on the deck; now waiting for the glue to set up. All that's left is some additional rigging between the structures, some small detail parts and placing the gun directors and 5-inch batteries.  I hope to get this done yet this weekend or early next week.

Thanks for looking. 

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Saturday, December 6, 2014 9:58 AM

Nice paint work, stik.  I had no idea U-boats came in two colors.  Looks great.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Saturday, December 6, 2014 3:00 AM

Yes, my dad took me to Chicago and to see the U-505 41 years ago... I don't remember any details now, just that I was there and that I saw it..... I do vaguely recall some sort of 1/48 scale aircraft carrier model inside the museum itself more...

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Saturday, December 6, 2014 12:50 AM

505 after its capture would be a heck of a diorama. That's not in my skill sets but some of the fanatics over at Model Warship build incredible stuff. They're not alone of course. I've learned a lot from watching YouTube videos concerning model railroads - some of their work is beyond impressive. I'd guess making big things small is the world's oldest hobby and remains one of the best. (Does inspire me though. I'll swap out two 1/700 DDs that sit underneath the wing of my 1/48 AM Avenger painted for Atlantic service put the subs there. The plane's a whopping big thing and I'd bet the subs would fit. I've got Tamiya's new 1/700 Bogue with PE - maybe that could make it into the 45 GB.)

I saw 505 when I was 12. It was outside then. It looked graceful and extremely impressive from the outside. When you got inside, yikes! how did forty guys live in a closet for a month? Pompanito is in San Francisco Bay and sits in the water. (It's still in great shape. About ten years ago Hollywood refurbished the sub in and out to make a pretty funny movie called Up Periscope - it's on Netflix now. I doubt the boat actually submerged but it was used as the set for the high seas shots.) It's a lot bigger than 505, but so was the crew and the missions longer. The weird thing was that you can hear the water running up against the hull when you get inside. Been told that submerging was accompanied by a kind of groaning noise at any depth. I'll stick to pontoon boats on Minnesota lakes. Also saw some "boomers" at Norfolk in 1976 (we're talking ten feet away from three of them - docked next to the Franklin - security was very lax then) and the things are as big as a WWII cruiser. But they still call them boats.

Eric

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Friday, December 5, 2014 10:01 PM

Yes, I have an I-19 on my workbench needing its final touches, along with a Los Angeles Class Flight II boat. I'll do a comparison shot with them at the end of the build. I am not sure if I want to depict 505 as she looked at the beginning of her last war patrol, or how she looked before her encounter with the Guadalcan's Task Group. I have until morning to decide...

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Friday, December 5, 2014 9:24 PM

I glue magic tracks to the rollers themselves with a bit of CA. If the fenders are on, take some paper towel in small wads and stick it in between the tracks and the fenders to push them down on top of the wheels and a little more where you want sag. If the tracks are not set before you put them on, you can just leave them that way as the white glue sets. I've never had MT go together without a hitch - the trick is make sure the top sections are as you like and clean on both front and rear - then use a little patience and make some kind of connection underneath - if it ain't perfect, nobody will ever see it. There are always more MT than you need.

Stik

I did a AFV Club Type VII a while back. It was a cute kit, you'd never think of a 1/350 ship being that blinking tiny. I built it along with the AFV I-19 and the IJN boat dwarfed it. Really should do a Gato.

Yours will look great I'm sure. The GB doesn't have enough over-weathered models so if you're feeling nasty this would be a really good choice. I did a lot of reading when I was building those boats and some of the U-boats, especially if they got sea borne supply, were out for 8-10 weeks and were a real fright by the time they came home. (If you track down my build log on those boats, I think I quoted some of the U-boat officers on this subject.)

Eric

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    June 2007
  • From: Seabrook, TX
Posted by Axemanwb on Friday, December 5, 2014 8:32 PM

Hi Guys. I'm starting to put the Dragon "magic" tracks together for the Pz IVJ I'm building. I've not done this before and I find that getting the "slack" between the return rollers is daunting. How do you get that right with these individual link tracks?

William 'Axeman' Hawes

In Progress: Tamiya 1/35 Panzer II

'Just' Completed: Testors P-51 1:48

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Friday, December 5, 2014 8:11 PM

And here we are as of T+26 Hours (actually a few minutes shy of that when I took the latest photos)

in order of work today

conning tower and parts to be mounted there primed with Humbrol Primer (#1)

and then later painted in a dark blue black color (Humbrol Tarmac). Researching U-505 says that she was most likely in DunkelGrau 51 on the Hull and Blaugrau 58 on the Conning Tower. Only Lifecolor and White Ensign Make that in their lines and neither are carried by any LHS, so I approximated...

Hull base coated in Tamiya German Gray 

then I masked that off after giving it some time to dry and painted the upper hull sides with Model Master Acryl Marine Colors Dunkelgrau 51

then a photo with the conning tower placed on the hull for an idea of she will look when finished

detail painting on the conning tower fiddly bits

and finally a photo of all the wood horizontal surfaces painted with Floquil Weathered Black to represent the Teerfirness applied to the wood for camouflage and as a preservative against the sea water

I'm gonna let all this cure overnite before tomorrow's coat of Future, decals, washes, sealing topcoat and finally glue all the last bits in place...

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Friday, December 5, 2014 6:20 PM

I've got the Revell Baltimore at home that I plan to build as St. Paul - it'll join another old Revell Ward and be my Minnesota Navy. (The Ward sunk a IJN mini-sub at Pearl Harbor and the gun crew that fired the first shots of the war were Minnesota Naval Reserve: the gun's at the state capital.)

I had no idea that Revell kits had rigging points. I did an Academy biplane that had them but had little plastic bars that you'd tie the line too inside the fuselage - anyway you didn't glue into a hole.

I avoid anchoring or ending a rigging point in a hole or straight into the superstructure. One thing nice about railings and ladders is that they multiply connection points for rigging. Thin line will slip right between those things really easy. I also use discreet bits of PE waste or even small bits of plastic and glue them into places on the ship where they're very hard to see and use them for rigging points. Cutting fly tying line should be pretty easy - one it's advantages over monofilament or fly tippet line. What you want are mini-scissors - 21/2" blades and strong reading glasses. Even Squadron brand - about $5 will do very nicely. The problem with bigger blades is that you have to get them pretty far beyond the cutting point and it can get clumsy - again even worse with mono.

Future ships. If you want to keep budget down there are very nice big ships in 1/700 scale. Some of the best modelers prefer the scale - probably because most resin kits at in it. In some ways I think 1/350 is easier, but the part count is higher. The Revell kits are all very old and none were ever "state of the art."  (That's why they're in such an odd scale - in the 60s standard scales were still kind of up in the air and did get settled until the mid-70s.) If you want a decent model for low cost, I'd check Airfix. They are 1/600 scale, several are still widely available and they are well under $20. (The HMS Sulfolk which was part of the Bismarck battle is under $10. I've got the kit and it looks good.) Airfix kits, like old Revell, vary considerably in quality. (I built a clunker and it didn't help the cause.) Go on our ships section and ask someone to recommend a good Airfix ship. Better would be to register and ask on the general forum at Model Warship: the place is great for advice like that. If you do want a Revell you could look either at the classic PT109 (1/72 scale) and HMS Campbeltown (which also appeared as USS Ward) which is 1/240 scale. There are some pretty straight forward and afordable models in 1/350. The Tamiya Fletcher ($25) is a Tamiya, which means really good even if it's from the late 70s. Academy makes a perfectly good Graf Spee (with it's own railings) for about $35. Dragon offers incredible destroyers for great prices, but Dragons are a handful with very high part counts.

The Mo is perfectly good. Get all the guns in place and throw on some filters, washes and some streaks - that'll help break up the overly sharp color distinctions. If you know how to weather tanks you can weather ships. If you don't have enamel stuff and dont want to buy it, go on YouTube and look for Acrylic AFV Weathering Techniques and watch the whole 55 minute Mig Jimenez video. It's absolutely crackerjack. I've weathered several kits with all acrylic and it can most certainly be done. There's also a really neat small video on YT called "Faux Rust Painting" shows how to make a rust pattern with acrylics that can be used for any size. It uses big brushes but is almost identical to how I make mine on smaller scale: big emphasis on the fact that "rust" is actually several different colors. Acrylics are great though.  I'm getting less fond of fumes as time passes, and there's something to be said for using paints and solvents that you could drink with no harm. Anyway, finish her all up and show it off.

Eric  

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Friday, December 5, 2014 6:16 PM

Thanks guys! I will have photos up in a bit here. I have the initial base colors on now and am letting those dry before I tackle detail painting in awhile here.

Nomad, she is looking pretty darn good for a kit that dates back to the Eisenhower Administration. You gotta look at it from that perspective. When she is all finished I am sure that you will have her looking quite proper.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Friday, December 5, 2014 4:15 PM

Even with your dissatisfaction, I think you did a commendable job, Doug.  I often have trouble with the first kit I build of any particular model.  It never helps, either, when the kit itself leaves much to be desired.

Probably most of us are never completely happy with the way things turn out; he who builds also knows where all the mistakes and inadequacies are.  I think it's OK to be satisfied with "good enough."

As Admiral Kirk said, "we learn by doing," and you certainly have done a great deal.  I bet from a normal viewing distance, things look fine!

Keep pluggin' away, anyhow!

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2014
Posted by Nomad53 on Friday, December 5, 2014 2:42 PM

Looking good there Stik.

Eric: Got me some 6/0 fly tying thread. I love it. here are some photos of it in use.

I like the way things came out over all but I dislike the way I did things. I tried to use what everyone has told me and that worked but I had already ruined the paint and other things. I broke off the mast where the flag is and the old glue marks are eating at me big time. I still have to work out how to trim the thread without pulling something lose or breaking the thread.

I hate the way Revell did this kit on where the rigging points are. They are out of place, to big and not enough. No attachment points really at all. Just over-sized holes. As far as putting on rails that would be fine but there are two placed, one on each side, where rails need to go around the main deck but there is no place to put them. The gun deck goes all the way to the edge of the deck.

If I get another Revell Kit like this one I am going to fill in the rigging holes and drill some smaller ones that will let the thread go in them so I can have a clean glue surface. No more CA for me on rigging unless needed. Hate the cloudy film it leaves. Even in very small amounts. At least it does for me.

I will get better at all of this but to me I ruined this model. Now it is a test model for trying new things. Like PE railings and ladders. What fun that is going to be. I still need to get what Eric was telling me about to use to bend the PE.

No money left this month to get that right now. I do have some put back to get another Revell kit if I need to.

Okay now for the photos:

Nomad53


 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, December 5, 2014 12:39 PM

Stik, now that's what I call a late entry. After seeing the S Boat I am looking forward to this. Looks a nice little kit.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: MOAB, UTAH
Posted by JOE RIX on Friday, December 5, 2014 7:46 AM

That is some sort of awesome Stik. Certainly looking forward to the paint work. Way to crank it out.

"Not only do I not know what's going on, I wouldn't know what to do about it if I did". George Carlin

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by SchattenSpartan on Friday, December 5, 2014 5:51 AM

Stik: She looks really great so far!

Joe: It's nice to see your kitten painted up!

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Friday, December 5, 2014 12:22 AM

Thank you sir... if it was not for the PE headaches and speed bump, I probably would have started some painting tonite...

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Friday, December 5, 2014 12:20 AM

Fast work, stik.  Looks good.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Friday, December 5, 2014 12:03 AM

OK, I'm in! well here is my kit choice, Bronco's 1/350 Type IX C U-Boat, to be built as U-505. I am modifying the kit to show her as she was on her last war patrol. I am doing this as a crossover build with the Weekend Madness 2014 GB, so off we go.

the kit and my start time, 1500 hrs, Pacific Standard Time, 12/4/14

kit parts in their sealed bags....

out of their bags...

as you can see, a low parts count... but there are PE railings.... grrr....Bang Head

so anyways, to modify the kit to depict U-505 as on her last war patrol, one has to fill the hole for her forward deck gun mount. She did not carry one in Spring 1944.

so I sanded a styrene rod to fit 

glued it in place... nipped off the excess

then sanded it flush

I deviated a bit from the instructions to speed up the build and finishing process... since I had learned some lessons on this on my Bronco Schnellboot that I built this Spring...

The hull is divided into upper and lower halves... I glued the screws, rudders and after dive planes in place... and some oval shaped fixture to the fore of the keel 

and later the bow dive planes as well

Then I built the stand, since it will assist me in later steps for how to keep the kit somewhere during this project

then I added the few parts that I would to the upper hull and conning tower (an oops there learned a bit later)... support structures to the fantail (that broke during sprue removal and took a bit of time to fix and place)

and a screen type assembly to the conning tower (I know the U-boats did not have a radar, so I presume this is some sort of RDF antenna screen)

this left these parts for painting on the sprues and attachment later (while I Later decided to add the bow diving planes)

Up to this point took me a bit over an hour... perfect for Weekend Madness... Then came the Censored part... adding the PE railings... many Censored and almost another 90 minutes later I had them on... 

along the way I decided to yank out the kit RDF antenna out and replace it with a bit of wire and mesh...

and then there was the easy bit of kit PE, the 37mm gun shield...

and after 3 hours, and 1 1/2 Whiskey on the Rocks to unwind, this is where it stands, all ready for primer and paint in the morning...

More to come tomorrow...

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Thursday, December 4, 2014 9:50 PM

The main reason for Measure 33 "Dazzle" schemes in 1944 vs. Measure 21 Overall Sea Blue in 1945 in the PTO was that the nature of the Japanese theat had changed. In 1944 Japanese subs and surface ships were still a significant threat to USN ships. By 1945, after Leyte Gulf the threat had changed to the Kamikaze. Measure 21 provided superior camouflage to Measure 33 against the air threat.

Ok, tonite I finally began my 1944 GB project, Bronco's 1/350 Type IXC U-Boat as U-505. I will have photos up soon here.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

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