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Ju 87 Stuka GB

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  • Member since
    April 2005
Posted by Thunderbolt379 on Monday, September 29, 2014 8:10 AM

Zvezda, that is some serious preshading!

Okay, progress today -- I added some oil wash to the cockpit for dirt on the floor and walls, rust where paint us chipped on the seats, drybrushed silver for bare metal in the cockpit, white to pick out the radio boxes, and built up the engine cowling:

The interior of the cowling was brush painted RLM 65. I added some styrene shims to help align the lower section with the upper, which is without positive alignment features. The prop backplate is required to be added before the cowling mates to the fuselage, secured with a fitting from the inside, and dryfitting revealed a deliberate gap between the backplate and the cowling. I checked photos and it does not appear to be there all the time on the real thing or other models, although there could be a gap, just not so pronounced... I'm thinking of filing down the spacer ring on the backplate which creates this gap, to reduce the separation and, hopefully, make the prop fit a bit less 'wobbly.'

The intake in the upper part of the cowling was prepainted in dark metallic, and then masked with rubber solution before the part was added. Hopefully I can just peel away the rubber cleanly after spraying.

There are sink marks on the prop blades and these are now filled for smoothing out.

Target for tomorrow -- get to the etched harness, finish off the instrument panel, add the rudder pedals and bombsight, and just maybe mount the cockpit walls to the fuselage halves.

Cheers, M/TB379

http://worldinminiature.blogspot.com/

  • Member since
    January 2013
  • From: Athens, Greece
Posted by Zvezda1980 on Monday, September 29, 2014 4:16 AM

I must say I am drooling over the Stuka photos from all the builds in here.

Shooter the engine just needs a drop of gasoline and it will start roaring to life.

Tom the scheme is a great challenge.

Adj, this badge seems like a (not so good) replication of I/JG52, in the original the boar was smaller and the blue color lighter.

Apart from drooling, I managed to make some progress with my B' Stuka.

Canopy was masked with much care, using Eduard masks. The mask are not perfect and need some reinforcement with thin tape strips + adjustment in several cases.

Interior color was sprayed onthe canopy area.

Then the upper surfaces were rather heavily pre-shaded with two tones, since the upper colors are quite dark.

Under surface was pre-shaded with a lighter color (red brown), as well as the yellow cowlings.

Next will be the camo painting

Cheers

Kostas

  • Member since
    April 2005
Posted by Thunderbolt379 on Sunday, September 28, 2014 6:05 PM

PP -- Doug is onto something with the paint markers! Tamiya make them too, though I've no idea if they're enamel or acrylic. Given the way the original was not spray-applied, a marker might be the best way to replicate it.

Bish -- glad to be back with this schwarm and looking forward to making progress. I think I'll go the 65 route on the cowling interior.

Here's another question -- the coolant radiator under the nose. The kit instructions make no mention of final colours and for some reason it's hard to see clearly in photos, the best are B & W which kinda defeats the object. Was the rad in natural metal or did it carry RLM 65 on its primary vanes?

Cheers, Mike/TB379

http://worldinminiature.blogspot.com/

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Houston, Texas
Posted by panzerpilot on Sunday, September 28, 2014 5:26 PM

Good point, Bish. If things do go amiss, I can just blame. I was forced into this! They made me do it!

Thanks, Doug. I'll give those a shot. I'm willing to try anything. But, first this...Day one...HmmBig Smile

(Hey, SS. I read your set is coming in soon. Maybe we can battle this out together, or bounce ideas back and forth.) Oh, and Those two identical sprue, far left, are the replacement for the included sprue that had missing parts. Aires sent me not one replacement sprue...but two! Beer

-Tom

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: Georgia
Posted by Rigidrider on Sunday, September 28, 2014 4:18 PM

Tom... Just a wild thought... Paint marker! I have several that I use to mark replacement parts when installed on equipment for warranty purpose. They come in a variety of colors and I just so happen to have a white paint one that is like a ball point pen, that is it has a roller ball in the end. These can be found at most any welding supply store, and I think at most tool stores. The one I have came from the near-by Harbor Freight tool store. It would leave a line similar to a 1.0 to 1.2 mm pen. Just a thought my friend. They also dry super fast!

Doug

When Life Hands You A Bucket Of Lemons...

Make Lemonade!

Then Sell It Back At $2 Bucks A Glass...

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Sunday, September 28, 2014 1:05 PM

panzerpilot

Bish

Tom, I think you have been backed into a corner now buddy.

Yes, It seems my fate is sealed! Lest I be cast into the FSM dungeon of doom, I feel I must pursue this wild winter scheme. The die is cast. Besides, I woke up yesterday morning with Stuka on the brain. Apparently, I had been dreaming of a solution.

How to get the lines, with texture, to replicate a white washed field mod? White, with a tad of grey...Oil paint!..brushed on. Fairly forgiving, but if...I touch..it, all bets are off. How long does it take oil paint dry? Is it 5, or 10 years? I can't recall.

I did look into white sharpies, but dont think it would be adequate over a dark undercoat. Still, that is a viable idea. Thanks, Archangel.Oh, and stop posting pics of real engines, would ya? Great work!

Well, in the unlikely event it goes wrong, you can blame us lt.

And waking up with Stuka's on the brain, my idea of heaven Big Smile

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Houston, Texas
Posted by panzerpilot on Sunday, September 28, 2014 12:59 PM

Bish

Tom, I think you have been backed into a corner now buddy.

Yes, It seems my fate is sealed! Lest I be cast into the FSM dungeon of doom, I feel I must pursue this wild winter scheme. The die is cast. Besides, I woke up yesterday morning with Stuka on the brain. Apparently, I had been dreaming of a solution.

How to get the lines, with texture, to replicate a white washed field mod? White, with a tad of grey...Oil paint!..brushed on. Fairly forgiving, but if...I touch..it, all bets are off. How long does it take oil paint dry? Is it 5, or 10 years? I can't recall.

I did look into white sharpies, but dont think it would be adequate over a dark undercoat. Still, that is a viable idea. Thanks, Archangel.Oh, and stop posting pics of real engines, would ya? Great work!

-Tom

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Sunday, September 28, 2014 12:49 PM

Those little steps can be a real pain. I have an Excel sanding stick that a good friend gave me and I first used it a few months back and it was perfect for sanding those parts with damaging the wing detail. Nice to see it coming together Steve.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    September 2013
Posted by Raven728 on Sunday, September 28, 2014 12:30 PM

Last night I assembled the pit and sealed it up in the fuselage. I was going to put it aside at this point but decided to forge ahead with the wing assembly (sorry, forgot to take pics). One thing I've noticed about this kit is that the glue (Model Master) seems to set very quickly - I only have to hold the parts together for about 30 seconds or so. I guess it's a different type of styrene than the Revell kits I'm used to? So I had the fuselage and wing assemblies set aside, then I literally woke up in the middle of the night realizing I hadn't dry-fit them before the glue set (not that I would have had enough time to make adjustments anyway). Luckily I had spent quite a bit of time adjusting the wing tops with the bottom, so I didn't have any major fit problems - just a very small step that I may choose to leave as is rather than taking a chance on sanding away any of the lovely recessed detail.

- Steve

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Sunday, September 28, 2014 9:01 AM

Tom, I think you have been backed into a corner now buddy.

Mike, looking good. Interesting idea on the tires, I have found NATO black to have more of a grey tone to it, I normally use the Tamiya Rubber black for none German builds, but I do like the look you have there.

Good question about the rear of the cowling. I always go for blue as the area is exposed, the colour pics I have seen of a museum He 111 (same engine as the 87 and similar cowlings) they are blue. I would be interested to see what others think.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    April 2005
Posted by Thunderbolt379 on Sunday, September 28, 2014 8:47 AM

Bish, thanks! Well, I'm putting my best foot forward and have a progress report today. I realise I didn't post any shots of my cockpit and wing work from earlier, so here's the first pics (box top shot coming tomorrow).

I assembled the wheels and sprayed the hubs way back, and today applied the masks and worked out how to hold them to be sprayed, thus:

Instead of straight NATO black, this time I mixed a paler shade by going 1:1 with Panzer Grey, as I've seen plenty of examples of German rubber being a pronounced grey rather than black -- here's hoping it works out okay:

As today's main job, I assembled the landing gear around the wheels, dressed the joints and installed fairing caps over the siren mounts. They may have been removed completely by May '41 but I didn't feel like doing plastic surgery at this point. The spats are marked up for port and starboard as there is a fractional difference in the inner and outer faces of the wheel hubs, not that they are really visible. The handed adaptors to the wing are already installed on the wing subassembly that I built in the first half of the year:

The wheels will be masked and the spats airbrushed off the model, then added in final assembly, assuming the various small parts on the underside of the wing clear the resting surface and won't be damaged by handling minus the gear. Overall progress to date:

As you can see, I made a start on the engine cowling, which is fiddly, though parts fit seems appreciably good. Regarding this last part, I have a question for die experten here: the wide open view into the cowling from the back is troublesome, I have no plans to build anything in there but would like to get the colour right -- was the interior 02 or 65 to match the underside?

Target for tomorrow, complete the cowling and continue with drybrush detailing in the cockpit, plus possibly broach the etched harness.

Cheers, Mike/TB379

http://worldinminiature.blogspot.com/

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: Georgia
Posted by Rigidrider on Sunday, September 28, 2014 6:50 AM

Angel... That is one fine looking power plant!

When Life Hands You A Bucket Of Lemons...

Make Lemonade!

Then Sell It Back At $2 Bucks A Glass...

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: Georgia
Posted by Rigidrider on Sunday, September 28, 2014 6:48 AM

Do it Tom, Do it! I love doing seemingly impossible schemes like that just to push my self. Just do section at a time, and move with a purpose when spraying. Yes a tad of overspray is a problem at times, but if you cant control with a booth (I dont have one but am going to build one) start with a darker base color then called for.

My observations are that once the gun is in the groove its hard to stop, and even if reloading with paint it takes me a bit to get it flowing again , seems like something is always different even with the same mix. But again, Do it! Would love to see this one on the staging area! LOL...

Doug

When Life Hands You A Bucket Of Lemons...

Make Lemonade!

Then Sell It Back At $2 Bucks A Glass...

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Sunday, September 28, 2014 2:37 AM

Mike, good to see you back, after those 190's, I am looking forward to your Stuka.

Shooter, the engine is looking really good and nice work on the exhausts.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Saturday, September 27, 2014 9:50 PM

Shooter, that powerplant of yours makes me drool a little.

Hey Steve (Raven), just realised we are building the same kit. Thought that office of yours looked familiar!

  • Member since
    October 2006
  • From: Tucson, AZ
Posted by Archangel Shooter on Saturday, September 27, 2014 9:45 PM

Been off the last 5 days and thought I would have made more progress like getting it primed and painted but something always comes up. I'm just about done with the engine and ready to mount it to the airframe than add wires tubing etc. Here's a few progress pics, hope I don't bore anyone....

I decided to try and drill out the exhaust nozzles using a pin vise and x-acto knife to give it some depth. So far I haven't mess it up. In this kit you get 4 nozzles assemblies, the choice being having the cowling closed or opened.

I just see here that I need to readjust that one clamp on the bottom before Q.A. sees it. I'm using pics on the web for references but Airfix does have a good photo of the engine in their instruction sheet. Using that, I added a piece of foil on the upper sides of the radiator which looks like it would be a reinforcing plate, I dimpled it with a seam maker tool.

The prop is just inserted for display right now. Also used foil on the prop clamps which looks better than painting it. I added  tubing to the back of the gearbox and up over the block to the other side, along with a oil filler line/cap. And yes this is why it takes me forever to finish a kit or it becomes an unfinished hanger queen. But this one is fun so I'm pressing on.

I had to fill in the sprue craters that were on the backsides of the prop blades.

Next I would be adding some placards on the engine components then detailing the firewall. Looking at the fuselage assembly right now, I might go ahead and add the wings and stabilizers and start painting her since the engine won't be in the way.  More later.....

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 On the bench: So many hanger queens.

 

 

  • Member since
    October 2006
  • From: Tucson, AZ
Posted by Archangel Shooter on Saturday, September 27, 2014 8:51 PM

Panzer...That paint scheme makes my eyes crossed let alone tempting it but I'll say go for it for it does look awesome! I wonder if something like a White Sharpie pen would work or something similar?

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 On the bench: So many hanger queens.

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Saturday, September 27, 2014 7:44 PM

Good to see some Stuka work going on here.

Steve, that cockpit is looking real good.

Panzer, that scheme scares me. Have at it man. :)

Good to see you going at the Stuka, Mike.

  • Member since
    April 2005
Posted by Thunderbolt379 on Saturday, September 27, 2014 6:37 PM

Hi all! Well, with the completion of my third and last entry for the Fw 190 GB, I can give the bench a quick tidy and turn to other projects which have been clamouring for attention. Yesterday I took stock of the Stuka I began for this GB and added a couple of parts, did a few spots of cockpit painting and started to get my head around the engine assembly (yes, it's a Hasegawa...)

I have Eduard harness for the pilot's seat but as the cockpit will be closed I'm thinking of using a spare "1935 - 1939" type harness from one of the frets I'm currently working with. It might not be quite correct for a 1941 aircraft, but it'll look good in the pit and save sending away for more accessories at this stage.

I have the mask set and need to work out how to hold the masked wheels so I can paint the tires, then assemble the landing gear as subassemblies which can hopefully go on after main painting to ease masking.

I'll have a state-of-the-project photo later.

Cheers, M/TB379

http://worldinminiature.blogspot.com/

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by SchattenSpartan on Saturday, September 27, 2014 6:20 PM

Nathan, Steve, those cockpits are looking great!

My LHS called today and told me my resin cutting equipment arrived! I'm going to get it next week and then finally start working on that aires pit!

  • Member since
    September 2013
Posted by Raven728 on Saturday, September 27, 2014 9:23 AM

Panzer, that scheme is gorgeous. Pulling that off would be legendary.

Thanks Mustang! It's the Italeri 1/48 B-2 kit. I like it so far, it's well-molded, no flash. It definitely feels like a step up from the Revell kits I've been banging away on all year so far. Wink

Edit: Just noticed that there are a couple of control levers there. Now why didn't I see those before? May be time to invest in a pair of optivisors.... Geeked

- Steve

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Corpus Christi, Tx
Posted by mustang1989 on Saturday, September 27, 2014 7:40 AM

Raven that cockpit looks great so don't cut yourself short man.Yes  Whch kit is this?

                   

 Forum | Modelers Social Club Forum (proboards.com) 

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Corpus Christi, Tx
Posted by mustang1989 on Saturday, September 27, 2014 7:37 AM

panzerpilot

I am wondering....would I be absolutely nuts to tackle this scheme?  I've already done a 'dry run' with the air brush to see if such fine white lines are possible. They are..but with a tiny bit of overspray with the tamiya white I tried. I will tinker with other airbrushes and paint brands.There will be NO room for error! Maybe there is another way to get those lines. Hmmm?? Still 'scheming' about my G-2 scheme. as it will be a while until I get I the thing together anyway. I may chicken out and go with the usual Rudel scheme...Or, I may not! Devil

Two words.................DO IT!!!!

                   

 Forum | Modelers Social Club Forum (proboards.com) 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Saturday, September 27, 2014 12:35 AM

Tom, S7 is the code for StG 3/SG 3. Your aircraft would be the latter. I would imagine this scheme is from the winter of 44/45 as SG 3 didn't get Ju 87G's until Fed 44 in which case the 10 Pz Staffel was based in East Prussia  from Oct to Dec 44 and then moved to Saxony for the rest of the war.

Raven, that's looking good, don't worry, you have plenty of time.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    September 2013
Posted by Raven728 on Friday, September 26, 2014 9:14 PM

Love the work everyone's doing in this GB! Today at work I had that "Holy crap, only three months to go! Better get my hintern in gear." moment, so I finished up my half-completed cockpit this evening. Not terribly great, but the most work I've put into a pit to date, so I'm pretty proud of myself. I did a wash and some dry brushing with a lightened version of RLM02 to bring out the highlights. I was a bit disappointed that there weren't any levers for my to pick out in red & yellow, but c'est la vie.

The IP was a bit odd (for me at least), being a styrene 'base', with two sets of decals sandwiched between two pieces of PE. I think it turned out pretty ok, except that you can spot a bit of the brass-colored PE around the gauges. Not too worried about it though, since it'll be buttoned up in the fuselage anyway.

- Steve

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Houston, Texas
Posted by panzerpilot on Friday, September 26, 2014 8:32 PM

A photographic example of the same scheme. Definitely looks brushed (white washed on). Of note, painted on ID lettering. There's another in the background.

-Tom

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Houston, Texas
Posted by panzerpilot on Friday, September 26, 2014 4:55 PM

Good eye on the S7. I hadn't noticed that before. I have no info. about unit, location, etc. Just the picture. I think you're right. I can imagine a few men in black. with paint brushes and buckets of white out there doing a field mod. Slow and meticulous with some enamel white and a fine brush, here. I'll do more research on the lettering..

-Tom

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, September 26, 2014 4:41 PM

painting it on with a brush could be the way to go, I would imagine that could have been how its done. There are plenty of decals sets out there for letters, but of course it means a whole set. It looks like there is also the small code to the front of the cross, it looks like S7 on this one.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Houston, Texas
Posted by panzerpilot on Friday, September 26, 2014 4:32 PM

Bish

Now that would be one hell of an impressive scheme. Even in 32nd, that would be some achievement, but if pulled off, it would be well worth it.

I would be pretty impressive! I think it would be the pinnacle of personal airbrush achievement to pull that one off! I'd have to lay off coffee a while for that one! Cool However, it may not be too overly difficult...testors paint sticks! I have never dealt with those, but an initial splinter scheme in MM, then the lines. I may even get by with a fine brush, painted on. Then, there's the more simple obstacle..where to get the B and U decals?. I may have some..somewhere.

-Tom

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, September 26, 2014 4:15 PM

Now that would be one hell of an impressive scheme. Even in 32nd, that would be some achievement, but if pulled off, it would be well worth it.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

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