Ju 87 Stuka GB

I completely agree Joe.  Those Hasegawa radios and other goodies look pretty good sitting in there.

I'm tellin you! Kitbashing's where its at for these old Monogram kits.

I've got the Hase "B" version in the stash (for a future BoB build) but if I rob from it, then it won't be there when it gets built.  I also have the old Airfix B in the stash (for BoB decals), not sure it will have much in the way of "goodies".

I hear you there on that point. My budget is sometimes a little high, but then again you should have seen my budget on a 1:1 scale Mustang....................................!!!!!!!!!!!!!and more lol

Whatever I've spent in here building models doesn't begin to touch what I spent on that thing. But then again there is a thread on another forum that builds a 460 Mustang Fox body on a $5500.00 budget for the whole car..............................................

All buttoned up, seems filled and primed.  Still need to re-scribe some of the panel lines.

(Sorry for the bad photography, just another technique I need to learn)

Nice work Tom, and the pics look just fine to me. I am still trying to get the hang of that.

What did you use for primer, most people go for grey, so that's a bit different.

I keep a jar (old Tamiya 23ml) that I throw what's left from my air brush cup into.  Then use it for primer.  So it's a mix of grays, greens, blues, etc.  

I'll usually only add more subdued colors (no reds or yellows etc).  It's handy since it's already thinned and easy to just gab.  Plus it saves a little $.

The only issue is that sometimes the color gets a little funky.  So occasionally I might just throw in some neutral gray to get back into a palatable color.

Oh, and I mostly use Tamiya thinned with ISO.

That's a good idea, a good way to use left over paint. Will the blue go over that ok.

It seems to.  Although, I'll say I haven't progressed in my skills yet to notice things like that.  It probably has some impact, but I've just sprayed the first coat of blue and it seems to look OK.  After the second coat I'll post a pic and let everyone tell me what they think.

I have been doing this for my last several builds and haven't seen anything I don't like yet.  

Well if it works it works. It might be a good method for pre shading.

After a second coat it looks blue to my eyes.  However, when I set it next to my earlier build (which used the same Tamiya paint, albeit many years ago) it looks darker.

The second pic makes it look grayer than it actually looks.

That looks good. The shade difference could be down to fading and the effects of a varnish coat. But I don't think we should get to hooked on colours being absolutely exactly. They could often vary depending on batch, who had made them etc. I doubt they had the computers we have these days that can mix up an exact colour.

I recall reading an account of a museum that was striping down a 251 halftrack, and I recall they found a number of different shades, 9 I think, of Dark Yellow, all on the same vehicle.

I think the paint looks great, I've bought MMpaint (and Tamiya) from two different sources and they are close but still very slightly different. And like bish said the dull cote and even the glossing (pre decaling) has a tendency to darken the color. All in all, good coverage and application.

Doug

Looks fine to me, that first pic sure does look blue, I better get crakin!

Thats looking good so far Tom!!

Well gang, I've finished the field applied camo on this thing finally after 2 weeks or so!!!!! Thank tha Lord!!!!!

Here goes: Tadaaa!

and the other side:

a little touch up here and there and this part is done!!

That's nice joe, really like the look of this.

Awesome job on the camo Joe!

I got her primed and the panels preshaded, here's hoping I can find some time this week to lay down my night camo scheme.

Looking good bob, can't wait to see that camo.

That'll make two of us Jim!! Can't wait to see some paint slingin'

Looking good fellas!

Ok, this my be a stupid question,  but on the Revell JU-87D I'm assembling,  the paint scheme should be RLM 70 and 71 over RLM 65 on the bottom? Is that correct?  the instructions give no RLM numbers.

John

John, yes that's right, assuming it is the standard European splinter scheme.

Bish,

  Thanks for the clarification.  Bugs me when I don't have the right colors,  a little OCD I suspect

John

And of course the early period -- 65 was replaced by 76 later on, and there are aircraft with the early top and late underside -- Rudel's G-2 that I built last year was one of those.

M/TB379

Mike, are you sure 76 was used later on. My reference seem to indicate 65 was retained right to the end of the war. And I thought 76 was only used on fighters.

I was curious about that myself and checked carefully at the time, it seemed to be correct -- my impression was that supplies of 65 may have been running out by '43 and 76 was substituted in the field.

M/TB379

Interesting. That could imply that 76 was used to touch up patches, I can't imagine why guys in the field would need to repaint a whole aircraft unless it was changing theatre or a different role, such as night attack. So far I have only seen captions which indicate aircraft in late 44 and 45 still in 65, but of course these could be wrong and if supplies of 65 did indeed run out in 43, using 76 both in the field and at the factory would make sense.

I do wonder why the Germans did not introduce a new scheme overall rather than sticking to the splinter. Mottling would be just as effective on a ground attack aircraft as it would a fighter.

falconmod

Bish,

  Thanks for the clarification.  Bugs me when I don't have the right colors,  a little OCD I suspect

John

Hi all.  I haven't been on much that last couple of weeks. My dog has been sick. His kidneys have now completely shut down. Today I have to take him to be put down. This is the hardest thing I've had to do in a long time.

Sorry to hear that TJ , they become more family then pet, I have a fat old Siamese cat, and I dred the day when she goes, and shes 17 yrs old! Again, sorry, and hope all goes easy for you.

Doug