80 Years of Airfix GB

The Russians flew them!
Thanks Stick 

Yeeehaa - when I get out of my 2019  Hawker phase I know where to go ;)

Svenne

Hi Again,

A few misshapes here, mayor one the warped wing.

Think I have got arround that, focused on getting the wing to fuselage join as smooth as possible and then slowly and in short sections brought upper and lower wing together, each section under pressure.

Tiffy is flying now :)

Filler has been sanded, canopy clear parts are masked but not fixed.
Tomorrow I need to decide on relevant Tamiya mixtures for:

Humbrol  90 - XF-21 Sky
Humbrol 106 - XF-83 Medium Sea Grey
Humbrol 123 - XF-82 Ocean Grey
Humbrol 155 - XF-81 Dark Green 2
Humbrol 165 - XF-19 Sky Grey
Humbrol 224 - XF-51 Khaki Drab

As you might have noticed I forgott the cannons when joining the upper and lower wing together - happens when the "wingwarping-gods" turn on you...

Thank you for your time!

Svenne

Armor_Aficionado

Blue nose painted and masked off, now for an overall coat of auminum:

 

Looking good AA. What colour did you use for the blue.

Hi Bish,

The big Typhoone had me hooked but WOW; what a learning experience!

Never paid enough / serioues interest in the flying section, bit odd since my stash is sort of 50/50 but anyway...

Hawker and Sir Sidney Camm!

This time only the ledgends in a line up:

Hawker Fury
Hawker Hurricane 
Hawker Typhoone
Hawker Tempest
Hawker Sea Fury
(Hawker Hunter)
(Hawker Harrier)

wow...

Svenne

Haven't popped my head in here for a couple of weeks due to a free-lance project I'm working on, and trying to finish up the Fw-190 on my bench.
Some really beautiful work going on in here!  I hope I can measure up with...

The 1910 Type B Omnibus!

Now that the butcher bird is off my bench I can start this... fiasco. 
(I don't think I've ever built a ground vehicle.  Ever.  It's always been airplanes, and a few ships as a kid.)

I did some research on this kit, as well as the real Omnibus.  One thing that several people who did this kit mentioned, was missing parts.  So I decided to do a full parts inventory, and get everything off the sprues and into bags for each step in the directions.  Not something I would normally do, but the giant, malformed sprues are best gotten rid of at the offset.

First, dealing with the absurd amount of ejector pin marks.  Holy cow!  Here's a shot of the left, OUTSIDE facing part of the lower seating area.  Sixteen large and small EPMs.

Some of the EPMs even overhanged into the molding, like this:

Here's the same part after two hours of sanding, filling, sanding... etc.

I'm torn between removing all the EPMs as I progress through the build, or taking a week to fix them all, before starting assembly.  What do you guys think?

Cheers,
Mark

Mr. Stecks, I'd say "one step at a time." Do the ejector pin marks as you get to that part of the assembly. You don't want to exhaust your enthusiam for the build before you start.

fotofrank

Mr. Stecks, I'd say "one step at a time." Do the ejector pin marks as you get to that part of the assembly. You don't want to exhaust your enthusiam for the build before you start.

That's a really good point. 

I’m looking forward to seeing this Omnibus come together!  Unfortunate EPM locations but you’ve made great work of those parts!

So today, I took a few new better photos of the OD over the black base

Any feedback on if this is sufficient or needs change would be appreciated

Svenne Duva

Hi Stick,
I like that. Wanna share the recipie?

Svenne

 

Svenne, the Tamiya recipe for SCC 15 Olive Drab is 5 parts XF-81, 1 part X—58, and 1 part XF-71.

With Humbrol use 5 parts 150, 2 parts 159, and 2 parts 33, or an alternate mix of 8 parts 159 and 1 part 33

Svenne Duva

The Russians flew them!
Thanks Stick 

Yeeehaa - when I get out of my 2019  Hawker phase I know where to go ;)

Svenne

 

Youre welcome Svenne! Here’s a link to an article on Soviet P-40s. 

http://lend-lease.airforce.ru/english/articles/romanenko/p-40/index.htm

MrStecks

Haven't popped my head in here for a couple of weeks due to a free-lance project I'm working on, and trying to finish up the Fw-190 on my bench.
Some really beautiful work going on in here!  I hope I can measure up with...

The 1910 Type B Omnibus!

Now that the butcher bird is off my bench I can start this... fiasco. 
(I don't think I've ever built a ground vehicle.  Ever.  It's always been airplanes, and a few ships as a kid.)

I did some research on this kit, as well as the real Omnibus.  One thing that several people who did this kit mentioned, was missing parts.  So I decided to do a full parts inventory, and get everything off the sprues and into bags for each step in the directions.  Not something I would normally do, but the giant, malformed sprues are best gotten rid of at the offset.

First, dealing with the absurd amount of ejector pin marks.  Holy cow!  Here's a shot of the left, OUTSIDE facing part of the lower seating area.  Sixteen large and small EPMs.

Some of the EPMs even overhanged into the molding, like this:

Here's the same part after two hours of sanding, filling, sanding... etc.

I'm torn between removing all the EPMs as I progress through the build, or taking a week to fix them all, before starting assembly.  What do you guys think?

 

Cheers,
Mark

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now thats the Airfix i remember. Goes to show that the olden days were not aleays better. I am sure you will fill and file it into shape.

Can't see anything wrong with that Stik. The OD over the black has come out well.

modelcrazy

As far as Silly Putty vs Blu Tac, I far prefer Silly Putty. For me Blu Tac is more sticky and difficult to remove, also it's harder to form. I've never had an issue with residue.

 

I used Blu-Tac to hold down a piece of the mask on the Lanc. It was only on there a day or two. I had a heck of a time getting it off the wing. Never again.

Cary

stikpusher

So today, I took a few new better photos of the OD over the black base

 

 

 

 

 

Any feedback on if this is sufficient or needs change would be appreciated

 

 

 

Svenne Duva

Hi Stick,
I like that. Wanna share the recipie?

Svenne

 

 

 

 

 

Svenne, the Tamiya recipe for SCC 15 Olive Drab is 5 parts XF-81, 1 part X—58, and 1 part XF-71.

With Humbrol use 5 parts 150, 2 parts 159, and 2 parts 33, or an alternate mix of 8 parts 159 and 1 part 33

 

I think it looks good. I wish I could achieve effects like that when I paint. I think I'm just too heavy handed when I paint.

Cary

I think the OD over black creates a nice matte faded finish.

Bish - I'd like to jump in with Airfix's newer 1/48 P40B offering if that's alright?

Andy, yep, thats fine. Welcome aboard.

stikpusher

Any feedback on if this is sufficient or needs change would be appreciated

 

Stikpusher, I really like the OD over the black.  It has a very natural "aged" look to it.  Nicely done. 

Cheers,
Mark

Tales of the Omnibus - Chapter 1

Hey guys.  As you can see in the picture below, the floor of the Omnibus is pretty badly warped.  This is a thick chunk of plastic and the foundation for the whole vehicle, so I know if I glue the chassis and body to this it's all going to end up wonky.

Any thoughts on how to square up this floor?  My only idea is to screw it down to a plank of wood and the glue in some brass rod (in strategically hidden areas), to keep it straight.  Would that work, or is there a better solution?

Cheers,
Mark

Bad day in paradise...

The trusty old AB gave up, after +20 years of service, she sort of looked at me and said:
"hey dude, my o-rings are older then your kids"...
Been spitting badly lately the old lady :|

No good Carma...

Then on to my new favourit line of AC, the Hawker family...

First off, and this will be a different thread, my new 1/48" Tempest (the brand name will not be mentioned in this thread) :)

Trying to prepare myself for the big "Tiffy" I decided to go 1/48 (nonamementioned) as well.

So I got this kit, was warned that the parts are brittle, decided to cut the sprues open to relive any any tention and... the xxx dremel disc gets stuck in the carrier frame and the part is ripped in 3.
Repair on its way...

No good Carma...

But it has been a long day.

So next is the 1/72 Typhoone I have been working on.
Putty was  done, masking was done and I had put on a layer of Vallejo primer.

Cut some Tamiya XF-82 with the yellow cap thinner and started the compressor:

The frosty surface is something I have not seen before. 

Moved on to XF-83, same procedure, paint cut with yellow cap until milky...

What I think is happening is that the Tamiya Yellow cap reacts with the Valejo primer.

This is how the cup looks when I clean it with Valejo cleaner:

No good Carma...

So, tomorrow is a new day.

I will add a 1/48 Sea Hurricane to my lst if you do not mind Bish?

@ Frank, sorry it has been a bad week.

Forgott to mention,
the painting session created so much fumes the fire alarm went off, nice bill to follow there...

And it is raining...

Crap - tomorrow is another day :|

Thanks, Bish.  I used Revell Enamel, RV32152, Gloss Blue.  Painting and assembly is al done now; just waiting for the gloss coat to dry so I can start with the decals.

Svenne Duva - Sorry about all the mishaps you've had.  I hope things get better for you.  A good airbrush is like a good friend.  It sucks to lose one.

AA - Looking good.  Looking forward to seeing the decals.  A plane always seems to come alive when the decals go on.

Cheers,
Mark

Tales of the Omnibus - Chapter 1  (cont.)

Well, I watched a number of Youtube videos on correcting warped parts, and spent about an hour last night trying variations of the hot water method.  Some recommended hot tap water, others recommended boiling water.  I started with hot tap water and when that didn't work I started microwaving the water at longer durations until...  Success!

The floor is almost completely flat.  There is still a very small deviation, but I think it's okay.
Here are before and after pics:

Actually, I'm kind of amazed it worked.  I don't know what the temperature of the water was, but it wasn't too far short of boiling.  I live at 6000 ft. altitude, so water usually boils somewhere around 205 F.  I'm guessing the water that worked here was around 170 F.

Alright, on with the adventure!

Cheers,
Mark

Hi Mark,

Thx,

Good to see that the hot water treatment worked out.

I was going to suggest get the walls up and start getting some shere to push the missalignment.

Looks as if you are good now. looking forward to your next update :)

Svenne

Nice one Mark, good fix.

Looks good AA.

I was able to wrap up building the crew figures yesterday... 

Painting them will probably be my biggest challenge...

Alright, you can mark this one as DONE!  Here's the final result on the P-51D:

Nice looking 51 AA.

I started on the BV. It's typical of the old Airfix, lots of flash, nonexistent detail, raised panel lines and oversized rivets.....OK the rivets constitute some detail. It should go together quickly and probably take twice as long to fill the seams.

I started in my usual way with a black primer.