Speaking about blast bags. I found this last year and saved it. This is the way I'm going to try to make some for the Bismarck.

Moongoose, I want to also say congratulations... This forum is filled with some really super skilled artesians..

I do not have much to report on my Arizona other than a bunch of PE folding and assembly. Pretty much all of the super structure is removed from the plastic deck and replaced with PE. (Conning Tower, Chart House, Pilot House, Fore Mast Forward Control, Main Mast Fire Control Tower, etc.) 

I also got my Scaledecks wood deck to replace my first one. It will eliminate the uguly spaces left from the other deck and PE. I got the PE splinter shields removed, the kit ladders and stairs and most all of the superstructure removed, and the PE replacement parts for these structures shaped. Now I have a couple questions:

- When looking through the PE sections of the superstructure pagoda, I can see from one sides windows through the other. In real life there were interior walls which would prohibit that kind of visibility. I am going to add inner walls inside my PE to make the area more realistic. In my mind, this will be especially true if ANY of the ships doors are to be shown open. I want to correct this before I assemble the structure. Has anyone else noticed this in some builds, or is it just me?

- I believe I found my solution to the main gun blast bags. It appears in photos that when the main guns were stored in the locked position, the blast bags were neatly tucked back into the turret mostly with only a very slight amount out and wrapped around the barrels. I am deducting that when they fire, the blast bag is pulled out of the turret (recoil) and sags from the turret around the barrel, can anyone confirm this or enlighten me? Also what color were they, black, dark gray, light gray, white?

- I saw one build of this kit on-line where the modeler removed the 4 poorly molded gipsy winches from the deck and built his own. Does anyone know if the same style of winch is available from the after market?

- If I build her in the early 41 scheme, she will be in the #5 standard gray scheme. From July 41 to Nov 41 she was in Camouflage measure 1 scheme (5-D dark gray with haze gray upper masts). In Oct-Dec 41 she was painted in the (5-S) sea blue scheme and retained the light haze gray top masts. Here are my questions; Was there ever a time after receiving the new OS2U-3 planes in early 41 that the gray ship had the red colored top of the main guns? When was the ships number removed from the top of the #2 turret and replaced with the red tops? Was there ever a time when she had both the red turret tops AND the ships number on turret #2? 

This turret color and ship number thing may be a moot point because based on the Eduard detail set I am using, it seems the PE makes the ship appear to be between July and Dec 41. I get this from the machine gun birds nest positions, antennas, etc.

I hope to have some worth while photos soon...

Ben

modelcrazy

Mongoose,

I just got around to looking through the April edition of FSM as saw your Perry. Excelent Chris, congradulations!

 

Holy cow, I didn't know that! Thanks! I hadn't opened the latest issue yet. Last year's secret santa GBis really paying dividends as I didn't do any ships before that. One more aircraft GB to finish up and then I'm getting back in the water 

Mongoose,

I just got around to looking through the April edition of FSM as saw your Perry. Excelent Chris, congradulations!

Thanks Scott 

Beautiful work Steve.  Really captures the feel that your years of experience at sea has been projected onto the model.  

Steve: OH WOW OH WOW!!!  Looks friggin' awesome!!! I bet even King Posiden would approve!!! I can smell the salt air from here! 

Ben: Ohhhhhh, looks cool! Looking forward to seeing you slap all those goodies into action! 

KC: Sorry to hear that and good luck! Still haven't started my kit in earnest yet. Guess there's still a little trepidation there. 

Thanks GH, just make sure you hurl over the stern, oh wait, the deck is secure except for essential watchstanders.

Mongoose. It's really much easer than it looks. Just some practice and you're there. Remember, there are no two wakes alike, that are like thumbprints so it's realy dificult to get it wrong.

KC, thanks. I was under the imperssion that Flyhawk was one on the better PE companies. I'll have to do some research before ordering from them. I do have a 1/700 Prince of Wales on the way for a sunk dio, but all I really need from it is the hull. Got it on the cheep from eBay and should be here in the next several months. Don't care about the shipping time frame, I have lots of stuff to work on prior to that and It'll probably sit in the stash for several more.

Steve, that's a wonderful job!! There's no way I will come close to that.

I'm starting slowly since I have very little time to spend on my models .

I do have ANOTHER complain about the Flyhawk PE set. They had 9 main gun barrels like they were suppose to. Well after putting in 3 I discovered one of them was NOT for the USS Missouri, it did not match the others, shorter, not the same size and this was a factory sealed pack. Glad I had bought BMK barrels when I first bought the model. I used all 9 of those.

After reading the problems on the deck the other post said I started to check mine and it might be off a little but then again I have not cut anything off the deck yet. I guess we will have to wait and see.

Steve it's just amazing how much action your water portrays! 1st you see the Spruane crashing through waves and then whenyou see the OHP my first impression was how calm the seas got. Crazy good. Can't wait to try this. I'm done with my major project now so I'll post up soon, I've got several ships now to try.

Absolutely supurb work on both Adrimal.

That bow splash says "hard ride" in spades.  Almost wants to make me lose the greasy slider I had for dinner.

OK captains, I'm done with both the Spruance and Perry. I completed them within a hour of each other.

Lots of pics so grab a cup of something.

Spruance

Oliver Hazard Perry

Super nice Ben. I bought the Lifecolor US set and like it. Let us know how that AK works.

The rest of that booty is awsome. Lot's of reading coming up.

New items arrived for my Arizona build:

Ben

Yeah, love that bow wave!!!!! 

Steve: That is looking really nice! I like the pitch of the boat, the swells and the bow spray as they begin to tell a good story. I think you have the right idea extending the bow spray as it will match the picture perfectly.

While the ocean work captures your first look, the details and finish on her brings you in for more. I only hope that I can emulate your work when I'm done with the Arizona. 

Ben

I'm now back to completing the Spruance and Perry. Here is where the Spruance is as of last night. I'm not 100% happy with the bow spray but studing actual pictires I need to extend the splash a little further back down the bow. Easy addition while I finish one more motor small boat.

Ben...got it now.  Way better solution.

MC..know all about that.  Buried myself in the three out of production upgrades for Hase's escort carrier.

Wow Ben, I didn't know the plastic shelds were so thick . Your going ahead with the new deck is a good idea since you're doing a qualty job on her. I was going to sugest I send you my deck to use to fill the gaps but I think it's the same quality of the one you already have. I'll have to check into that manufacturer. There's just no scrimping on cost when it comes to wood deck verneer or PE quality. I bought a TON of AM for my Akagi, which I will start next year when the Japanese Ships GB starts, and I spent three times on the AM than I did on the kit . 5 sets of PE, metal guns, wood deck, extra planes ETC, ETC.

I have no idea what to do there Ben, good luck though. Crossing my fingers you get it all shipshape (if you'll excuse the pun). 

goldhammer: no, there is no punch outs for the kit shields, it is solid, like the one in the right of the picture. This means there will be no gaps at all. The PE guns, and superstructure will simply lay on top of the solid deck. I hope to have it in my hands in a week or less.

Ben

If made to fit around the thick kit splinter shields, you'll probably still have a gap since the PE is going to be thinner.  Hopefully not as bad and can hide somewhat on the inside.

GMorrison: While you are correct about the cluttered gun batterys, I just cannot be happy with my $15.00 wood deal from overseas that is not fitting anything anymore. Regardless if I use the PE or thicker plastic, it will not be the build quality that I would be satisfied with. For all the money I already have wrapped up in this kit so far, I should not be concerned over a $60.00 wood deck if it is the quality the reviews say it is. 

Here is a photo of the one I have now. You can see the natural wood grain that is not in scale going the length of the deck. And you can see that the pre-cut punch outs for the kit splinter shields are HUGE. I do not think that I want to compromise my build to that extent. 

Here is a photo of the "other" premium deck by a company called believe it or not "Scaledecks". It is an American company and the feedback I have seen on-line indicates they make a really nice product. You can see the planks are individually colored. It also has a micro felt back and not a press and stick one. This will allow me to move it around to get it where I want it before I let it dry. Plus it will eliminate all of my splinter shield gaps, as well as holes made by the stair and boat cut-outs. It will also help me on the clean removal of the gun bays on the lower rear deck. They are suppose to be elivated. This new product will make that a clean process too.

This is the way I am moving forward. I think it will bring the whole build to another level, provided I don't booger it up in some other way. Wish me luck...(again).

Ben

Great pic

One thing that doesn't get modeled often is that these gun positions are very busy places. Here's BB-40 USS New Mexico.

Put together one of the 5" guns with its platform and see how much of the deck inside the shield but forward of the gun is actually visible. If you can get the PE to be at the front of the slot in the deck, it may be OK.

Well Steve.... the problem is that the PE does not match the plastic that was removed in shape, bend points, length, etc. I am totally disgusted right now and have to think about it some more; here is what I have to work with:

I think there is a company that makes a wood deck without the cut-outs for the stairs and splinter shields, etc., basically a solid wood deck. The problem is the deck once purchased and delivered costs more than the model kit! (around $60.00). 

So I thought I would remove the PE and scribe the deck then paint it, but it would never match the wooden main deck. 

To add insult to injury, the splinter shields have numerous reinforcement ribs that I had to remove to get them to fit this flush with the wood edge. They will have to be added individually after the deck is installed (around 40 of them). 

Oh and I also trimmed the wood to fit the PE as well in a couple spots so..... 

Deep in my gut, I think I will have to buy the premium deck to make this work for the standard I am going for. 

Unless.... I remove the PE and cut plastic strip for the splinter shields to fit the openings exactly. That may be one saving attempt and still be able to use the wood deck. 

Time to step back for a while and think about this.... cry, spit, kick, have a tantrum, etc. then gather myself and proceed forward.

Ben

DRUMS01

And now my delemma; When going with the wood and PE there will be some gaps. That will require me to correct them as best as possible with glue and paint? With the spare scrap I have from the wood deck punch outs, perhaps I could use it to fill the more prominent or visual spaces on the deck to minimise any disparity of grain and color. If I do it right, most of the gaps will be behind the splinter shields and not in plain sight. Perhaps after the fill and paint inside the splinter shields along with the guns being installed you will not really see it (?). I believe that is the route I will take, wish me luck... photos soon. Ben

Yeah Ben, I'm not sure in the big scheme of thing they would be noticable, although I have used scrap wood venere to fill some areas with success.

Steve: Thanks for the tips concerning the plastic putty or milliput. I will use one of them, white glue, or blue tack, as I believe all can be painted. 

Gamera: Thanks brother for your kind words, I just started and there is still much to do.

GMorrison: I appreciate your insight. I did indeed see what you said concerning the incorrect plastic shields versus the more accurate shapes of the PE splinter shields. While the PE is close, it is indeed different in numerous areas (more accurate). With that in mind, I removed the remaining splinter shields for several reasons:

- simply because they are grossly out of scale.

- since I already removed the front two splinter tubs and replaced them with PE it would look funny to keep the others.

- the PE is much more accurate in shape, length, and thickness.

- and the only two places I see this as an issue are the splinter shields and the steps on the wood decks. Everything else on the wood deck appears just fine.

And now my delemma; When going with the wood and PE there will be some gaps. That will require me to correct them as best as possible with glue and paint? With the spare scrap I have from the wood deck punch outs, perhaps I could use it to fill the more prominent or visual spaces on the deck to minimise any disparity of grain and color. If I do it right, most of the gaps will be behind the splinter shields and not in plain sight. Perhaps after the fill and paint inside the splinter shields along with the guns being installed you will not really see it (?).

I believe that is the route I will take, wish me luck... photos soon.

Ben

There's just no thing as a free lunch anymore. I see the problem with the splinter shields.

Grinding them down to be flush with the deck might be your best bet. Before you do that though, check to see whether the PE ones are the same shape. The Eduard folks may have said; well the kit ones are wrong and since the modeler is taking them off, we'll shape them correctly.

For the gun bloomers, blast bags, whatever (IMO they were primarily weather seals), I like to use straignt white glue and build up a number of layers. Tissue is way too fiddly.

Interesting little tidbit of useless information...University of Arizona main quad, there is a full size outline of her deck done in brick.

I know the hull 5 inchers were gone at the time of her loss, but but no idea on the superstructure mounts.