Ben: That's one heck of an upgrade! Great show!!! 

Sorry, no advice here. I don't know much about ship models. I'm just watching and trying to learn something. 

Ben, as far as the blast bags, I have used tissue, milli-put, and acrylic filler like Perfect Plastic Putty. The most unrealistic, to me, was the tissue. The Milli-put and PPP seemed to work well.

As far as the gun emplacement blast shields, I'm not sure. I usualy raze the offending part down to the plastic deck and then add the PE. My concern is if you go just to the wood and it's too high, then you'll have a time getting it correct. the wood venere is usually so thin that I'm not sure it will make much of a diffrence though. If its too low you can always remove the PE and fill, then re-attach. 

Looking forward to one of my next steps, the blast bags for the main guns. Has anyone here used tissue with white glue or blue tack to make blast bags?

If so, what are the secrets?

Are there other options?

Ben

I found another issue when comparing the Banner kit to the after-market wood deck and the Eduard PE updates. I guess this is not a surprise that while the deck works well with the kit (since its made for it), it does not work well with the Eduard PE. The photo below shows how well the wood deck conforms around the kits gun emplacements. The problem is that they are way too thick in scale. When I removed a couple emplacements to add the PE it leaves rather larger gaps between the wood and the PE.   



I am starting to think I will leave the kit gun armor on and try some paint tricks to make it appear thinner. In the photo you can also see where I removed the bogus boat stays from the deck. They are going to be replaced with PE rigs and positioned correctly. I am already looking at filling those simple rectangles with scrap pieces of the wood decking. 

I still have to remove the plastic steps so I can add the ones made from PE. I will have to cut some of the scrap to cover the whole that will be there once the plastic steps are removed. I'm sure this is just the beginning of many little things I will find when trying to add stuff from 5 manufacturers.

Perhaps if I cut down the kit emplacements till they are flush with the wood deck, I can then add the PE on top of the remaining plastic? My concern is if I do this, will it make the emplacement armor sit too tall for the guns? What do you think, should I take the remaining gun emplacement armor off and replace it with the PE or leave it?

Ben

Thanks mmodelcrazy...

I am looking at ships photos between the 1936 updates and the 1941 final update. In the process I see photos of the main guns with blast bags around thier base and attached to the turret, and then I see some of the same guns without them during the near same timeframe. Does anyone know this mystery?

I also see the 5" guns at the bottom of the superstructure both closed and open, once again during the same timeline. My guess is that it is a type of weather shield to protect the gun stations from the corrosive salt water when not in use (?). Much the same reason for the barrel plugs when not in use. Is this correct?

Help....

Ben

Excelent work and research Ben 

I believe the chain guides are "races", but GM or others may know for sure.

I hadn't realized that kit had so many issues. I know it is just an upscale modle of the old Revell kit but I had though they had fixed a few items. Now I'm sure I'm going to turn it into what she looked like a month or so after the attack. I can still use the wood deck, guns and PE for that as well.

Great idea for the guns.

Great start Drum.  Looks like a lot of scratchbuilding and modifications ahead.  Thats the fun part of building ship models.  

Scott

While waiting for my paints and books, I have been looking at the kit and PE instructions. Right away it is clear that they do not match each others sequence of build at all. This means I have to carefully study the PE instructions and integrate them into the modeling sequence. 

One of the first (PE) instruction steps is to work on the front of the main deck. While the kit has a half relief of the molded in anchor chain, the PE instructions require it to be removed. In the same step there is a call out to drill and shape holes for the hawse pipes and anchors. 



After test fitting the wood deck I see that the chain guides (?) were no longer in the proper relief. My solution was to make another layer with very thin sheet plastic. The holes you see will have the wood deck and then PE around them. In this picture you can see the crude winches. I have not decided if I am going to replace, modify, or leave them. Perhaps a base coat, then wash, and highlight would make them appear more detailed (?). You can also see the kits raised relief for the deck planking. If you look close there are many little circles in the kit decking as well (?). 



Next I've jumped to the main guns as it is the next step in the PE instructions. After some research I found that the USS Arizona's main guns could not elevate individually, some of the sister ships made later in production could, but the gun battery in the Arizona's main guns operated together. The kit barrels do not measure up to ships drawings as they are short and fat. The replacement metal barrels appear to solve the problem. Another funky thing about the kit guns is the instructions tell you to leave them unglued so they can operate independently.







My solution is to make my own pivot pin and cradle for the barrels. I used basic brass rod and grooved plastic. 



Once I got everything measured out to fit inside the turret I drilled the pilot holes for fittment of the rear of the new barrels. Next I carefully glued the barrels to the plastic to ensure they were all at the same elevation and spread and then test fitted them again. Finally I added the brass pivot to the plastic And then a final test fit into the main gun.





Here are the metal turned replacement barrels in the turrets





Yes, this is little baby steps. Part of my problem is I am waiting for the books and paints. Another issues is I am being very careful not to remove something I shouldn't or build out of sequence. 

Next I think I will be working on the hull... till then.

Ben

Ben, you are correct. She was repainted and would have been in Bristal Fashion just after her stay in the body shop. There likely would have been very little if any rust around the overflows. The fighting tops would have been nearly white the the turet tops sparkly red and clean. The decks would probably have just been honed as well.

STEVE; I believe before the October incident with the Oklahoma the Arizona was still Navy Dark Gray (5-D), correct? 

If I'm reading of the above references correctly, the Arizona did not get the Sea Blue (5S) hull and verticle treatment  and Haze Gray (5-H) towers  until much later, most likely in November 41, right?

If that is true, then the ship would have little or no discoloration, rust, or wear prior to the attack; it would've been a days old new paint job, right?

Help me out, as I really want to get the colors correct for the period I am building.... 

Thanks you all for your historical expertise, I appreciate everyone's comments

Ben

modelcrazy

 The nice thing about indivudal barrels is they can be placed in diffrent elevations, if displayed in a battle.

 

KC, I use CA and some bracing, IE a piece of sprue, paintbrush etc to prop them up. Make sure they are lined up and leave till dry. The nice thing about indivudal barrels is they can be placed in diffrent elevations, if displayed in a battle.

Stupid question.

How do you guys get the brass cannons to line up like the plastic ones do? I'm having the hardest time trying them to line up in threes on the turret. I never had a problem with the tanks and I know the ships are different.

I'm just coming along slowly with all the other stuff I've been doing that takes time away from my models.

Good info Ben,

Are you planning on before or after her fender bender with the Oklahoma in Oct 41?

And here is more from "waynec" regarding the ships colors:

I found this in a very old FSM thread, by "waynec":

Thank you for the book suggestion, I just ordered it.....

As for the colors, I have heard of both the battleship gray, and a more recent discovery of the darker blue/gray: 

According to new findings released 07dec2006, she was mediterannean blue with red turret tops to signy the float plane squadron

http://starbulletin.com/2006/12/07/news/story04.html

Are there any other paint schemes after the new upgrades, 1940 - 1941?

Ben

Decided on the colors?

An important one to add would be Battleship Arizona; an illustrated history by Stillwell.

Wow, this GB is really fun to follow! Scott, I have to agree that your water effect looks really convincing. 

I thought I would have something to show by now, but actually when I said I would start earlier this week that word "start" would also include research. A significant part of this week was researching the best photos and build reviews on the web. I've also been studying the stand alone instructions associated with both Tom's and Eduard's PE. 

As I look closer at the kit I find that it looks very familuar and then it dawned on me. It is very close to the box scale Revell kit I built in the early 70's. So I'm trying to use previous on-line builders knowledge, research, and what the existing kit has to offer. In that process I have found many issues with both the accuracy and fit of this model:

- bildge keels are incorrect on lower hull

- poor fit of the lower and upper hull

- poor fit of the 3 piece main deck

- poorly molded kingfisher aircraft

- missing the boat cradles

- over simplified deck details (example: gipsy wenches)

- main gun blast bags or no bags?

- hull armor belts leading edge wrong

- docking keels missing under lower hull

- incorrect 5" destroyer gun stations under superstructure

I could keep going, but I will identify the issues as the build moves forward. 

Most of the detail issues will be fixed with the PE I already have, but some of it will have to be purchased or built from scratch. I already bought the 1/350 OS2U kingfisher aircraft in clear from Trumpter. The gipsy wenches on the deck by the main guns will have to be reworked or created. 

I purchased three books to help me make some of the correct choices as I want to make the ship appear as the updated 1941 variant: a) The Battleship USS Arizona by Waldemar Goralski, b) Squadron At Sea, USS Arizona,  c) USS Arizona Ship’s Data, Photo History. I hope these books will provide what I need (they are currently in the mail). 

Now that I know the version (period) I want to build next is to determine if I want it to be a full hull or waterline model. Seeing some of the nice work here, and since I have never done an ocean scene, I am leaning toward the waterline version. The waterline kit would also eliminate all of the lower hull issues and it would most likely look better with the little people on it; what do you think?

According to the PE instructions I have a lot of plastic removal for water tight doors, ladders, stairs, verticle walls, etc. I have my trusty dremel, files, sanders, and hobby knives ready so once again, I hope to have photos soon....I promise.

Ben

Looks great Scott. The foil really does look good! 

Not sure about flying fish but I'd guess you could make some 1/540th dolphins and porposes.. 

Maybe even a giant sea turtle... 

It looks great Scottrc. Nice work sir.

scottrc

Anyone know who might make 1/540 scale flying fish?

Not sure you would see it in 1/540, but you can try purposes possably.

Yeah, the foil is a game changer for me.

Thanks everyone.

The tinfoil really adds to the 3D effect.  It still gives of translucents with the blues and greens painted over it.  Lots of fun experimenting going on tonight with the cotton and varnish.  Anyone know who might make 1/540 scale flying fish?

Scott i love the wake, especially off the stern!

That's some really nice work there Scott! I hope mine, whenever I get around to it, looks half as good! 

BTW: I think the ship in Titanic was the S.S. Lollipop. 

She was a good ship... 

scottrc

Where are you guys getting your history from, a modern textbook?

"What ship was in the movie Titanic?"   Thats easy, it was the Poseidon.

Anyway, some small progress with adding more cotton, white, and getting ready to put on a coat of varnish.

Baby steps.  

 

Trumpeter makes a great little Curtiss SOC Seagull.

Where are you guys getting your history from, a modern textbook?

"What ship was in the movie Titanic?"   Thats easy, it was the Poseidon.

Anyway, some small progress with adding more cotton, white, and getting ready to put on a coat of varnish.

Baby steps.  

modelcrazy

 

 

Gamera

And it reminds me of the old joke about the blonde who asked 'why is there a memorial to Arizona in Hawaii???' 

 

 

I saw a Tweet that someone was joking about, deservedly BTW.

"What ship was in the movie Titanic?"

 

It was the one that was sunk by a Japanese submarine pulling the US into the Vietnam war... 

Gamera

And it reminds me of the old joke about the blonde who asked 'why is there a memorial to Arizona in Hawaii???' 

I saw a Tweet that someone was joking about, deservedly BTW.

"What ship was in the movie Titanic?"