Currently building USS Juneau. 

Scale: 1/700

Manufacturer: Dragon

Originally: Pit Road

Kit: USS San Diego (Atlanta class)

In the stash: USS Vincennes. 

Scale: 1/700

Manufacturer: Pit Road

Originally: Pit Road

Kit: USS Miami (Cleveland class)

In the stash: USS ???. 

Scale: 1/700

Manufacturer: Niko

Originally: Niko

Kit: USS Savannah (Brooklyn class)

Welcome aboard, Joe. It’s awesome you are joining.

Bakster

I should have stayed with my Anthem 155. It is so reliable, 99% of the time it is no muss, no fuss.

Second go of it using my 155 went very well. I had no problems at all and the finish is much better. Like I said, no muss no fuss. No images to post at this time.

Thanks GM, on there now.

Most of the 1/700 CL kits originated from Pit Road/ Skywave. Dragon has re-issued some, I think Freetime sells others, and there's always eBay.

Ya know, of the 14 1/350s, 21 1/700s and one egg Lexington kit I own, I don't have a single light cruiser in the stash .

I need to remedy that.

Both of those are cool Joe. Guess I'm a little more partial to ships that cruise on top of the water though since they have more stuff on their decks instead of being a big metal tube. 

Joe, it's great to have you aboad Capt!

Ditto Mr Morrison, The CL's were a vittal part of the war effort and you don't see many of them built. Here is the link again for ship camos, per ship and year, along with a discription of each camo scheme.

http://www.shipcamouflage.com/camouflage_database.htm

The Gato would also be a fine entry, easer than the CL but probably not by much. If you're so inclined, you can get quite a few AM parts for the Gato. Not 100% sure about 1/200 scale avalibility, but they're probably out there. If nothing else you can always contact a Shapeways printer and ask if they could up-scale a 1/350 deck gun Etc. if desired.

I'll put you down for either and since you are entered, set back and relax until you're ready cast off all lines and build.

The Oakland would be a nice kit to start with. Anytime a CL is built is a good day.

The Oaklands were a version of the Atlantas, but the pair of twin 5" guns amidship were changed to quad 40's.

The camo is pretty simple: Blue.

The ship on the box is a fantasy. The following ships Reno, Flint and Tuscon were M33, M33 and M21. Dazzle, but probably not like the art; ditto; and blue.

The USN CL's from WW2 are ships that really helped win the war.

I'd like to see you build that. She's a modified Pit Road/ Skywave kit from a while back.

I'm working on a Juneau from that original as well.

There's a good amount of PE available too.

The Oakland would be a nice kit to start with. Anytime a CL is built is a good day.

The Oaklands were a version of the Atlantas, but the pair of twim 5" guns amidship were changed to quad 40's.

The camo is pretty simple: Blue.

Hey There Steve. Well, after several occesions where you have encouraged me try my hand at building a ship model, I have decided to take the plunge with you all here on your GB. Your rather extended deadline certainly makes this effort much easier to undertake. In addition, just the very fact that the folks involved here will help make this one very enjoyable build. This will be my first real try at ship modeling and it is something that I have been excited to try for quite some time.

I have taken the time to read through all the pages of the GB so far and I am just immensely impressed with quality of expertise and knowledge all the participants have. As a long time member here on FSM I am always confident of the quality of assistance and encouragement I can find here.

I have a dozen US ships from which to choose from in my stash. I don't want to jump into some thing too complex but, still want to test my metal. I haven't fully nailed down which kit I'm going to commit to but, I've narrowed it down to a couple of candidates.

1/200 Riich USS Gato 1944. This is rather nice kit that comes with it's own PE. Kit measures in at 18 in. so, a nice size to work with. 

or 1/700 Dragon USS Oakland. Kit also provides decals and paint guide to model this as USS Reno or USS Flint. I have Tom's Modelworks PE set for this as well as a set of 5 in. resin turrets in route.

I've got a couple of other builds I'm working to finish up so it may take me a while to get fully involved in this endeavor. Although it will be good to have this to work on as a break once in a while. I will do my best to keep up with everyone elses builds but, it may be sporadic as sometimes I tend to take a hiatus for other life events and distractions.

Here's hoping you will pipe me aboard Admiral.

Cheers, Joe

TheMongoose

I tried to dip my PE in apple cider vinegar and clean lightly with a toothbrush. I still have issues with paint peeling off of PE . I've also tried spraying an acid etching metal primer on the PE. Still no luck. Maybe, maybe I say again, it is ever so slightly better. Not really noteable considering the time it takes to decant it and spray it on thin enough to maintain the details. Agree with the "don't touch it" mantra above! 

 

Thanks guys, this explains some things.

I tried to dip my PE in apple cider vinegar and clean lightly with a toothbrush. I still have issues with paint peeling off of PE . I've also tried spraying an acid etching metal primer on the PE. Still no luck. Maybe, maybe I say again, it is ever so slightly better. Not really noteable considering the time it takes to decant it and spray it on thin enough to maintain the details. Agree with the "don't touch it" mantra above! 

It is very difficult to get paint to stick to PE anyway regardless of the prep, acylic is the hardest. I will usually spray a lacqure coat to protect it, but that sometimes doesn't stop the paint from chipping off. Your best bet is to not touch it after painting 

modelcrazy

I agree with GM.

It should be cleaned to remove the etching agents or any protective coating prior to paint. I am really bad about that and too often pay the price for it. 

 

I should have stayed with my Anthem 155. It is so reliable, 99% of the time it is no muss, no fuss. With the 200, I can't think of time where I didn't have issues of some kind, it is always a fight. 

That said, it could be the paint, the brush, something on the barrels, a combination of all three.

I soaked the assemblies for a bit in SuperClean and they are ready to go for another pass. Before I do, I will clean them with IPA and this time, I will reach for the 155, then see where that gets me.

Thanks for the advice guys.

I agree with GM.

It should be cleaned to remove the etching agents or any protective coating prior to paint. I am really bad about that and too often pay the price for it. 

It can't hurt. Cleaning it at a minimu. Try not to touch it with bare fingers, and clean with high % alcohol. But dont rub it.

Question: does brass need to be treated before painting? The reason I ask is because I thought I read that somewhere and I just experienced a weak paint bond on my brass tubing guns. 

Here's an example of the other side of the coin.

Prince of Wales, guns not attached.

Seperate after superstructure, not attached. I don't have an updated pic of the camo, mast w/PE, boats and fiddly bits attached.

You've seen enough of my work GM, just hang with me. 

TheMongoose

MC do you paint everything at once after assembly? I'm goping to have to pay close attention to this as you run down the stretch with it.

 

OMG no. Decks a color. Verticals a different color. Arms a combination of above and other colors.

Under-the-water another color.

Here's a short course of what Bill does:

Put together the hull, including details, all the way up to the main deck. Do all the putty and fill required.

Paint it the above waterline color.

Mask to the waterline and paint the belolw waterline color.

Mount on base (I use a temporary base of Morrison Design 1.1 which allows the model to be put on it's side)

Mask the bootstripe top and bottom and paint it.

Take all topside horizontals like decks and paint them deck color.

Mask off deck areas and paint verticals the correct color. Paint verticals like deck houses, islands etc. the big stuff the vertical colors.

Remove masks, touch up.

Assemble.

Start adding turrets, directs and railings. Up from below, inside to out.

Paint pieces a lot, not after assembly.

It takes more tim e, but time is the only thing we own.

I do on modern ships since they are the same color, not on ships with wood or painted decks or camo.

MC do you paint everything at once after assembly? I'm goping to have to pay close attention to this as you run down the stretch with it.

German flaged ships, any era.

A German GB?

Ships only or anything German?

Thanks for staying with us Mach, are you going to be intrested in the German GB in Aug? Maybe a nice type XXI U-boat?

Not much to add. I'm just lurking and following everyones builds.

I'm impressed with them all!

Back to lurking mode...

Thank you Gam and Steves.

I finally received the wax pencils yesterday and will give them a try. I probably won't get to it tonight though.

That's looking really nice modelcrazy , I'm still learning how to use PE properly , yours looks great .

modelcrazy

 

 

GMorrison

HECEPOBs.

Hideously Expensive Central European Plank On Bulkhead kits.

 

 

 

 

That's it.

Bakster, keep plugging. That's why the GB is open ended, I know how long it can take.

Here's some more progress on mine.

 

Hey Steve, yeah, I like your low stress no end date GB. I don't need anymore stress in my life.

Your build is looking great! Everything looks tight!

Bill: Looks good, seems like the best way to paint the boot stripe. The masking on the stern looks like a pain to get right though. 

Steve: That looks good, you're making great progress. 

GH: Sounds cool, looking forward to photos.