Good lookin mast Bakster.

KC, I have never worked with the Flyhawk PE, how are the instructions?

Good lookin mast Bakster.

KC, I ave never worked with the Flyhawk PE, how are the instructions?

Hey KC--I just tried the link I posted, and it posted hot. Rather than use the link icon on the toolbar, I tried going through the insert menu as you suggested. I don't know if it was my dumb luck, but it worked your way. It's silly that the icon does not work but what the hey--whatever works. Thanks for the tip!

My favorite part--applying paint brings things together. I lightened the black some by mixing white into the paint mixture.

I ordered and tried these pick-up pencils. They hold the piece well enough that I can draw glue along the edge of the PE and then glue them in place. Once the glue sets some, the pencil releases easily and thus far, I didn't see any residue.  I am optimistic about this purchase, it worked exactly how I hoped.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XK3CBGB/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bill: That modification is amazing! Great job!!! 

Bakster

 

 

Gamera

I was looking for my vacation photos of the Whisky for Bakster but not sure where I put them now

 

 

Buddy--maybe you drank them? Added the whisky to some coke? Hey--it happens. 

 

 

No comment... 

Good job!!

Permission granted captain. 

That is some mighty fine work on that hull and rudders  That had to take some fine measurement.

Captain Morrison requesting permission to come on the flag bridge.

The work on Midway's hull conversion is finally over.

I'm quite happy with the outcome. It probably doesn't much match the Midway's finer lines at the stern, but using the successor class Forrestal's hull lower parts made sense. Thanks again to Mike Ashey for the information and to Bill Morrison for the incentive to make a full hull Midway.

I have smoothed the many seams, and put enough putty and time into it to call it finished.

At the stern, I've added the skegs/ keelsons for the inboard props, modified and used several of the shafts that came with the Forrestal class kit for the outer two. Typing this I realize I still need to add a brace at the end bearing of each of those last two.

I want to say thanks to the members on another thread here who suggested thinning Tamiya Gray putty with Tamiya Extra Thin cement. It's kind of a miracle material. Generous use.

Nino (Jim) sent me the following marvelous photo which allowed me to build new rudder assemblies.

I then reduced it to scale, and made a pattern for building new ones. The kit parts are also shown here. They are the same half draft depth as the original kit hull.

And the new parts.

This GB is a good one. Everyone is doing fantastic work.

Bill

Kentucky Colonel

I'm going to tell you right now, those FlyHawk PE parts are very, very, very FRAGILE.

GMorrison

I like their attitude. I painted the flight deck of Midway with Testors Light Gunship Gray and it looks good to me.

 

Yeah, they seem like a nice bunch of guys. I stoped trying to get and exact match years ago. With weathering, fading and such, you can put two ships together and see a slight diffrence. Depends when they came out of the yard.

Kentucky Colonel

I just started to mess with my model last night while watching the ballgame. I wanted to try a couple of those PE parts since I have never use FlyHawk PE before.

I'm going to tell you right now, those FlyHawk PE parts are very, very, very FRAGILE.

I've used several other brands and none of them were this fragile. When I first removed a fret from the package I could tell it was not normal, very thin and very light. I took my tweezers and lightly pushed down on the end of the fret and it left a mark. I'm going to have to be very careful using this and then protecting it after it's finished.

 

Egads..  That could be difficult.

I just started to mess with my model last night while watching the ballgame. I wanted to try a couple of those PE parts since I have never use FlyHawk PE before.

I'm going to tell you right now, those FlyHawk PE parts are very, very, very FRAGILE.

I've used several other brands and none of them were this fragile. When I first removed a fret from the package I could tell it was not normal, very thin and very light. I took my tweezers and lightly pushed down on the end of the fret and it left a mark. I'm going to have to be very careful using this and then protecting it after it's finished.

I like their attitude. I painted the flight deck of Midway with Testors Light Gunship Gray and it looks good to me.

GM,

I got it from Modelmakers Redit

https://www.reddit.com/r/modelmakers/comments/6bupls/modern_navy_ship_colors/

I had read a simillar article somewhere last year while looking for colors for my Spruance.

It's probably like trying to match USCG "Spar". You kinda have to eyeball it.

Hi Modelcrazy.

I'm interested, no aguments planned, what source those FS color spec.s came from? 

It is hard to find post war Iowa color info.

Thanks, 

Bill

modelcrazy

OK, this is what my research found regarding the post war Iowa class deck colors, other than it is difficult to get an answer. For the 80's, since I believe you Bakster, building the Wiski and KC, the Missouri for Korea, give or take a few years. The horizonal surfaces and turret tops should be FS 26270 Medium Grey, upper deck, FS 36118 Gunship Grey and the flight deck and non-skid areas around the D turret ETC, FS 36076 Engine Grey. Now depending on which picture you find, assuming you can, the areas may change but the colors shouldn't. The Navy is a stickler for uniformity. Now ALL colors will fade on a ship. The sea is the harshest environment for something made of steel to operate in given constant UV, salt, wind, waves, water and the wee little ants crawling around on the monster all day and night. Plus, the fact that all of these environmental conditions, and your enemies, are working together to sink you

 

 

Thanks Admiral--awseome info.

Gamera

I was looking for my vacation photos of the Whisky for Bakster but not sure where I put them now

modelcrazy

Oh, I see what you mean. Yeah, those have not been hot links for some time for me. I just hightlight them and open them in a new tab. A little anoying.

 

Tanker-Builder

Hey Gamera!

     I built a lot on the Whisky for the BaD shipmodel guys before they shipped it to Nauticus. Aside from the new hardware for At Sea refueling and such and minus a few guns and the Cats with Planes, they are fairly good to go.

      Now granted they now have Ciws and other systems. That does Not detract from their sheer massive beauty. The only thing is, the After end of the ship looks naked without the Cat's and Planes.

 

I've got some photos around somewhere of your model TB. I was looking for my vacation photos of the Whisky for Bakster but not sure where I put them now... 

Bakster

I repaired the support legs using brass tubing and glued them with CA. I was not sure how well the CA would hold, but they are. I ran them through stresses by test fitting and surprisingly they didn't snap off. That assembly is not glued in because it should be painted black and I'll mount it after all the painting.

Also--I removed the railing I did on the deck below the stack. I will follow GMs advice by painting first and then add the rails. I could have left the rails on, but I didn't want to deal with hand painting all that. Maybe it was foolish at this point but hey, it will give me more PE practice and, it will allow me the opportunity to try GMs workflow.

 

 

 

It looks good to me! 

Oh, I see what you mean. Yeah, those have not been hot links for some time for me. I just hightlight them and open them in a new tab. A little anoying.

Hey Gamera!

     I built a lot on the Whisky for the BaD shipmodel guys before they shipped it to Nauticus. Aside from the new hardware for At Sea refueling and such and minus a few guns and the Cats with Planes, they are fairly good to go.

      Now granted they now have Ciws and other systems. That does Not detract from their sheer massive beauty. The only thing is, the After end of the ship looks naked without the Cat's and Planes.

Bakster

 

 

Kentucky Colonel

 

While we're on that subject, Does the Missouri in the Korea War have some of her decks and the tops of her main guns darker gray or is it Deck Blue or Navy Blue? I've only seen black and white pictures of Korea War with a tan wood deck and "darker" color on some tops than the gray on the sides. If anybody has any idea what those "darker" colors are it would be a big help to me.

 

 

 

 

 

 

KC--I just found this old thread on Haze Gray. It might be helpfull to you.

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/7/t/165797.aspx

 

 

 

Thanks for the links. I bought the AK US Naval paints and I plan to use them. So I need to make up my mind on which ones where. I DO want to keep my wood deck and not paint over that.

There is this guy on YouTube and has a Missouri model painted in Measure 22 but he did not paint the deck "Deck Blue", just left it wood. I'm thinking about doing mine like that. He did use "Deck Blue" on certain decks that did not have the wood. The AK Deck Blue and Navy Blue are not quite the same, there is a small difference.

Bakster

 

 

modelcrazy

That link looks good guys. I'd go with MM Neutral Grey, FS 36270 myself.

Bakster, what do you mean?

 

 

 

 

Admiral, I posted that link and from this side it is not hot. In other words, if you tap on it it is dead. A person has to copy the link into their browser. Or is it appearing that way from my side only and it works for you guys?

 

 

I used to have that problem but then I learned to post links the same way I post pictures, though the "insert" on the top of the post body.  Once I hit "Insert" it's drop down window has "Insert Link" I post the link inside the URL and hit OK.

And another link I found.

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/7/t/159337.aspx

modelcrazy

That link looks good guys. I'd go with MM Neutral Grey, FS 36270 myself.

Bakster, what do you mean?

 

That link looks good guys. I'd go with MM Neutral Grey, FS 36270 myself.

Bakster, what do you mean?

PS: Anyone else have issues posting links not being hot? This is going on months for me...irritating.