Kentucky Colonel

 

While we're on that subject, Does the Missouri in the Korea War have some of her decks and the tops of her main guns darker gray or is it Deck Blue or Navy Blue? I've only seen black and white pictures of Korea War with a tan wood deck and "darker" color on some tops than the gray on the sides. If anybody has any idea what those "darker" colors are it would be a big help to me.

 

 

 

KC--I just found this old thread on Haze Gray. It might be helpfull to you.

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/7/t/165797.aspx

Kentucky Colonel

 

While we're on that subject, Does the Missouri in the Korea War have some of her decks and the tops of her main guns darker gray or is it Deck Blue or Navy Blue? I've only seen black and white pictures of Korea War with a tan wood deck and "darker" color on some tops than the gray on the sides. If anybody has any idea what those "darker" colors are it would be a big help to me.

 

I repaired the support legs using brass tubing and glued them with CA. I was not sure how well the CA would hold, but they are. I ran them through stresses by test fitting and surprisingly they didn't snap off. That assembly is not glued in because it should be painted black and I'll mount it after all the painting.

Also--I removed the railing I did on the deck below the stack. I will follow GMs advice by painting first and then add the rails. I could have left the rails on, but I didn't want to deal with hand painting all that. Maybe it was foolish at this point but hey, it will give me more PE practice and, it will allow me the opportunity to try GMs workflow.

While we're on that subject, Does the Missouri in the Korea War have some of her decks and the tops of her main guns darker gray or is it Deck Blue or Navy Blue? I've only seen black and white pictures of Korea War with a tan wood deck and "darker" color on some tops than the gray on the sides. If anybody has any idea what those "darker" colors are it would be a big help to me.

GMorrison

An old adage of ship models is to build from the bottom up, and from the inside out.

I generally find that it is easiest to paint the steel decks first, and then mask those flat surfaces off and paint the verticals. Exceptions do exist, say a smaller gun tub. There, it might be easier to paint the whole part the vertical color and then paint the small area of deck with a fine brush. Esp. if theres then a gun, direction finder or radar sitting in it.

I'm not at all sure what all of the decks are painted currently on the Whisky. It's always difficult with museum ships, which often follows after what is available via donations. Looking at a number of photos of the Iowas in the 1980s, the decks that are not natural wood are a dark gray non-skid. The verticals are Haze Gray.

 

They are pretty looking for sure.

Don't be tricked by the AM advertising. They love to add all that brass on unpainted plastic because it looks much more striking than when camouflaged.

 

 

Does anyone have advice regarding the hull color? I was probably just gonna use Tamiyas light gray. 

Mach71: She looks fantastic! Great job considering all the extra work you put in there modding her.

Bakster: Looks good. Yeah, I'd build from the inside out too, to keep myself from knocking exterior stuff off as I work on the interior.

An old adage of ship models is to build from the bottom up, and from the inside out.

I generally find that it is easiest to paint the steel decks first, and then mask those flat surfaces off and paint the verticals. Exceptions do exist, say a smaller gun tub. There, it might be easier to paint the whole part the vertical color and then paint the small area of deck with a fine brush. Esp. if theres then a gun, direction finder or radar sitting in it.

I'm not at all sure what all of the decks are painted currently on the Whisky. It's always difficult with museum ships, which often follows after what is available via donations. Looking at a number of photos of the Iowas in the 1980s, the decks that are not natural wood are a dark gray non-skid. The verticals are Haze Gray.

They are pretty looking for sure.

Don't be tricked by the AM advertising. They love to add all that brass on unpainted plastic because it looks much more striking than when camouflaged.

GMorrison

Bakster, might I suggest you paint the assembly before adding the PE.

While the railings are the same color as the verticals, the decks are a darker gray color.

And the stack cap is black.

 

Bill

 

Say GM, for that reason I planned on adding the stack caps later and after everything else is painted. I didn't know though that the decks are a different color, that complicates things. Blah. Thanks for bringing that to my attention, and I will give that some thought.

modelcrazy

At 1/700 scale, it is extreamly difficult to get everything perfectly aligned.

Amen. Thanks for the encouragement, Admiral.

Bakster, might I suggest you paint the assembly before adding the PE.

While the railings are the same color as the verticals, the decks are a darker gray color.

And the stack cap is black.

Bill

Bakster, nice looking job on the PE. At 1/700 scale, it is extreamly difficult to get everything perfectly aligned.

Mach71, another sweet looking sub  I love the modifications you made.

Now liberty liberty liberty, liberty call for the Blueback!

Here is your achevement ribbon and grab the badge on your way to the liberty chest for a beverage of your choice. 

There's still plenty of time to sign up for another Capt. Also, don't forget about the German GB starting next Aug, just 10 months away.

Thanks Mach, and your Sub looks gorgeous. Congrats!

steve5

nice work steve , I think the railings were never dead straight anyway .

 

Mach...nicely done. 

I think OMSI would be proud to have it if you ever decide to pass her on.

Looking nice Bakster!

I think I'm going to call the Blueback done. I might make a stand for it, but I'll call her done.

I sealed her in flat clear. 

nice work steve , I think the railings were never dead straight anyway .

Not much to show but here is a little of what I am working on.

Below: This piece is part of the ships funnel. The actual ship has a catwalk that goes around the upper most section. The kit accounts for that by supplying a horseshoe shaped ring that glues to the funnel. I thought it looked stupid, so I sanded it as flat as I felt safe to, and added railing.

A little other railing work I am doing. It is a bit wonky here and there but for now it will have to do.

Oh, lastly--I tried the Grease Pencil (China Pencil). It does seem to work but I have a concern with the residue that is left behind. For that reason, I think I'll order and try the wax ones. Those might leave some residue too but I am hoping less so, because the grease pencil is designed to leave marks behind. 

mach71

I think I have the diesel farings worked out.

 

 

I'll paint them soon and see how they look.

 

Again that looks good! You're doing a great job. 

Mach, the sub is really looking sharp 

KC, Bakster, you're welcome. The host, while he seems to have the slightest pro British slant, I could be wrong there since he is also a naval engineer, is funny and extremely knowlagable (and he can make a mess of some American ship names like St Louis, Wichata and Muskegon LOL). I have been bingeing his vids for 2 weeks now. He comes up with some intresting conclusions that most of the rest of us have never thought of or heard. Such as the Bismarck was not that well designed, since all of her supply lines, power and communications were outside the armor. This proved disastrous since she fell silent fairly quickly after the battle started due to power, communication and supply loss' to her guns. The Tirpitz on the other hand, incorperated these learned lessons and would probaly would have lasted longer in a gun fight had she not been bombed out of existence by what was, in essence, the grandfather of the MOAB. His recount of the Battle off Samar is excelent.

Hey Steve, thanks for the link. I watched it and it was cool....

March71,

Good job on the sub.

modelcrazy

Bakster, I ran across this video and though you might be intrested. In fact, this guy does excelent videos on several ships from Sail to WW2.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xDOTezQddY0&list=PLMK9a-vDE5zHuLrcOMv3FfCy8LgWd5JNH&index=1

 

Thanks for the link!! I found the USS Missouri on one of the videos and saved it. It showed a couple pictures from Korea War that I plan to use.

I think I have the diesel farings worked out.

I'll paint them soon and see how they look.

Bakster, I ran across this video and though you might be intrested. In fact, this guy does excelent videos on several ships from Sail to WW2.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xDOTezQddY0&list=PLMK9a-vDE5zHuLrcOMv3FfCy8LgWd5JNH&index=1

Mach71: Even if the decals aren't exactly right they look good! Nice work!!! 

Your sub looks great, Mach. It looks ready to prowl the waters looking for prey.

beautiful sub...

The carrier breakdown is odd. Unlike most aftermarket decals I've used, that are printed on a solid sheet of decal film and need to be cut out, or kit decals that have film around the graphic only, these are grouped together with a few graphics on decal small film sections.

They are also very thick, come off the paper almost on contact with water, and dry very fast. Lastly they dont seem to react to micro sol/set.

But they look very nice!

The Blueback is looking good Mach. What's intresting about the decals? Are they rub on?

I'm learning lots about PE, good stuff!

The decals came from China, they are interesting. I ended up using only the hull numbers from China. I used the depth markings from the Skipjack kit. They are 1/230 scale and the Blueback is 1/200, so they are off a little. I could not find any that were closer.

I got them on tonight:

As near as I can figure the lower sonar dome was not on the boat for long, if at all. 

I have some googly eyes I used for detail on another kit that will work. I'm just not sure

it was really on the boat. The onlt reference for it is a side drawing, but that does not

have the "H" tail.

The last thing I need to address is diesel snorkle faring.

Edit:

looks like I'll have to try and reposition the port side sail numbers.