Ships of the German Flag GB 2020

Thanks for the motivation guys 

doing some practice today. Started with the stack, small and easily rotated to get paint everywhere. You may be wondering why i primed in the white-grey color. 2 reasons actually, it's close to the color needed for the camo and it may allow me to modulate these light colors better. Instead of adding white to lighten the color I'm trying to put more or less coverage in an area. See what you think of these pics?

the white-grey is misted with grimey black(think tamiya smoke). It appears too brite yet i think. Maybe a little more, or maybe wait and do a little heavier weathering on those areas, what do you think?

Man that is one puzzle of a camp scheme but will look fantastic and unusual.

Marcus McBean

TheMongoose,

That is quite a camo pattern but it will look awesome when completed. 

As for laying the colors wouldn't you want to lay the green before the brown, darker over lighter?  Or are you hand painting each section?

Marcus  

Hmmmm, gotta think about that. I'm going to airbrush each section. One color won't go over the next so no worries about coverage. My thinking, all be it possibly flawed lol, is that green overspray would show strongly on the lighter brown but the lighter brown maynot show as much on the dark green making it easier to touch up. Short of that logic I hadn't come up with a specific order of spraying. Any advice from past experience would definitely be welcome :-)

Great job on those torpedo tubes Steve, very nicely done.

TheMongoose

 

 

modelcrazy

Hi guys.

...

So, during all this extra work I'm doing, including passing my Real Estate exam, sitting at open houses, working at HP and driving for Grubhub in the evening (actually really good money) I will be able to purchase the Pontos set for the Revell Bismarck. It's a supper nice set.

 

 

 

 

You've got to tell me about this! So I've been working hard to stay focussed on just building the Tirpitz out of the box and essentially using it to get ready for my Revell Bismalrk build. That one I want to knock outta da' park. I've just sarted looking at what's available for it. I bought the AK Interactice Modeling Straight Ahead book and plan to walk through it in detail. Let me in on your thoughts for aftermarket as well please!

 

I have a Lion Roar set for my Revell Bismarck. Like the Pontos one its huge. But i think the Pontos set comes with wood deck (Steve, correct me if i am wrong) i just went for the Artwox deck. I have repleaced all the AA guns with resin ones from vetren models. Still thinking about replaceing the ammo lockers, searchlights and a few other bits.

TheMongoose,

That is quite a camo pattern but it will look awesome when completed. 

As for laying the colors wouldn't you want to lay the green before the brown, darker over lighter?  Or are you hand painting each section?

Marcus

modelcrazy

Chris, take a look at the Pontos set for it, it's massive! I like AM sets very much, they really make a subject stand out but do add quite a bit to the build time.

The camo looks intense. I saw a drawing where the starboard side and deck had the camo and the port side, next to the cliff, was clean.

 

yep, that's the one I'm doing :-)

last time I looked at the clock it was 10:15. Guess it got away from me as it's after 1. Took longer than normal to mock this up. My current plan is to mask the white gray, paint the 2 different browns, then do the all over green by using what I've cut out in browns as the masks. Tomorrow though , or today I guess lol

Chris, take a look at the Pontos set for it, it's massive! I like AM sets very much, they really make a subject stand out but do add quite a bit to the build time.

The camo looks intense. I saw a drawing where the starboard side and deck had the camo and the port side, next to the cliff, was clean.

Prepping for paint! Check out the camo scheme...

modelcrazy

Hi guys.

...

So, during all this extra work I'm doing, including passing my Real Estate exam, sitting at open houses, working at HP and driving for Grubhub in the evening (actually really good money) I will be able to purchase the Pontos set for the Revell Bismarck. It's a supper nice set.

 

You've got to tell me about this! So I've been working hard to stay focussed on just building the Tirpitz out of the box and essentially using it to get ready for my Revell Bismalrk build. That one I want to knock outta da' park. I've just sarted looking at what's available for it. I bought the AK Interactice Modeling Straight Ahead book and plan to walk through it in detail. Let me in on your thoughts for aftermarket as well please!

Hi guys.

Sorry, I have been working long hours in a attempt to correct a serious misscalculation in my federal income tax withholdings, and I will be working more to save for the inevitable payment to come the first of next year.

Chris and PJ, I attempted to answer you guys yesterday but my phone locked up while trying to send 

So now that I'm at my copmputer I'll try to catch up.

Chris, you first. I agree with Bill, do your best, it can be done but with much work. I don't know why Tamiya did that instead of just giving a solid deck. As far as the stacks, I usually drill out holes and stick in coffee stir staws of diffrent sizes to add intrest. They aren't accurate but add some intrest. She's coming along great.

PJ, great job on the limber holes  That's going to make it awesome.

Docidle, Nice job, beautiful work. I really wasn't seeing it until the last couple of pictures. Once you got the door on I see what you were talking about. Sorry, I'm quite a bit scatter brained lately.

Did I miss anybody? Sorry if I did and you had a question I missed. Luckly Bill is in here and can answer some of them, thanks Bill!

So, during all this extra work I'm doing, including passing my Real Estate exam, sitting at open houses, working at HP and driving for Grubhub in the evening (actually really good money) I will be able to purchase the Pontos set for the Revell Bismarck. It's a supper nice set.

docidle wow does that look good! love the build up photos as well. I k how complicated that is, a perfectly round tube to complex geometry. Well done!

Mongoose,

I can't add anymore to Bill's(GMorrison) advice. As much as I'm not a fan of wood decks from various firms (there's no 3D effect) I also am a realist when it comes to multiple sectioned decks and sometimes only a wood deck will do. Unfortunetely, I think you're too far along to be able to fit a deck on with all the deck furniture in place.

Otherwise, your Tirpitz looks awesome.

Steve 

Continuing with the torpedo tubes, I started small by attaching PE to the lids first. Not a big deal but a step forward.

Steve

Next I marked off the size of the hole needed to be drilled. Then again starting small and working up to a point where I needed to measure again. It's always easier to take away tthan trying to replace plastic that you've removed...

To make sure that I had the angles right and to further hone the openings, I started drilling small holes on the exterior portions of the tubes which are kit parts.

As you can see, I was making small holes and then digging out portions. You can also see that I made a mistake and drilled way to close to the edge and had to fill in with Perfect Plastic Putty. Measure twice, cuss once or more...

And so on to this point.

Getting closer to where I want to be. I had to file at an angle so that the torpedo tubes would allign.

Then dry fitting to see how much more I needed to remove from the hull.

Now to dry fit all the components to see how they fit together. The PE is for the facing around the exterior tubes.

Note that the opening is completely round.

Everything lines up and now I need to clean up the openings to make them smoother.

Next up will be surgery on two of the smoke gererators stands and then onto the bridge and more major surgery.

My two bits.

Do the best you can.

when you splice pieces together with a piece of plastic on the underside, leaving space at the end for the edge of the hull; be sure to make the tops flush. The pieces may well be different thicknesses.

That alone may be enough. 

If not, mask an area as best you can considering the raised detail no morevthan 1/16" wide or so.

carefully try filling crack with a little Tamita Gray diluted in Tamiya liquid cement.

sick of fighting autocorrect with the Tamit's word!

Tight construction followed with super minimal repair should work well.

Bill

The initial primer is on. Everything here is just set in place.

Any suggestions on how to deal with the 4 deck joints? On the main deck Tamiya used raised lines to simulate decking. Everywhere else I've been able to eliminate the joints so would like to do that on these as well.

docidle

 

 

plasticjunkie

I have the hull sealed up and almost ready for the tower.

 

 

 

 

PJ,

Those holes cleaned up right nice. It really does look great. Did you place anything inside to block a see through or it the model small enough that it’s a moot point.

Steve

 

Thanks Steve. Yes I did  add something but forgot to mention and photograph the card stock I glued on the keel going up just under the deck to block that empty look. I painted the interior and the center card sheet black.

TheMongoose

Measure 6 times, cut once!

after looking at this for awhile i realized my sharpie lines weren't meeting up at the bow. Decided to backtrack, sand the bottom of the hull flat and THEN mark the cut lines out. Worked out great, definitely worth the time. A little sanding with the dremel and it sits water level right down the middle of the boot stripe  to me!

 

 

This is really looking cool Mongoose. And a very Happy Birthday big guy!

Steve

plasticjunkie

I have the hull sealed up and almost ready for the tower.

 

PJ,

Those holes cleaned up right nice. It really does look great. Did you place anything inside to block a see through or it the model small enough that it’s a moot point.

Steve

So Happy Brthday !!! Boy this is looking very interesting indeed.  

Measure 6 times, cut once!

after looking at this for awhile i realized my sharpie lines weren't meeting up at the bow. Decided to backtrack, sand the bottom of the hull flat and THEN mark the cut lines out. Worked out great, definitely worth the time. A little sanding with the dremel and it sits water level right down the middle of the boot stripe  to me!

TheMongoose

That's gonna be a beautiful looking sub!

 

That's gonna be a beautiful looking sub!

I have the hull sealed up and almost ready for the tower.

I've been making slow and steady progress on the Tirpitz. This is an out of the box build for me and I decided to focus and do the ModelCrazy paint technique. Yes, I am going to build the whole thing, prime it, and then do the camo! I've tried this before and always end up doing something in the middle rather than getting it all primed. For that reason there hasn't been much to show as I've been building. Here's where I'm at.

All the parts are built, cleaned up, prepped and ready for primer. I left a few guns and such off for now so they wouldn't shadow parts behind them when I spray.

I put  5thou sheet in the bottom of all the boats to hide the seam lines. There was no way to really sand them away. Did something similar for the seams on the crane that would show on 2 sides.

Oooh, looking at it now I probably should have drilled out the stack. Dang I missed that. Do you guys think it's better to open it up when there isn't anything inside or should I do some painting to make it have some depth instead?

And I decided to make the change to the bow so the profile looked right. Bondo is easy :-)

Hopefully I will have her all in primer this weekend. It's nice outside so that may be a struggle ;-)

Thanks PJ. Ye, i am useing that site as well as the AMP article and a host of books. I am now in the process of correcting the inside of the tower which is taking a bit of work.

That is fantastic work Bish and a must on this larger scale. UBoat.net haa excellent reference materials on these boats. I used that site a while back when I built my Type VII/C. Their flood hole patterns varied from yard to yard, some having more and others having less.

docidle

Bish,

Outstanding work so far! Having built this kit I can now say that I wish I had drilled out all of those limber and flood holes and vents. I wash trying to get it built as a Christmas gift to my younger brother. After seeing what you’re doing I might have to revisit it and put her in dry dock for an upgrade...

I really want to know who makes the metal periscopes and do they have them for the Revell 1/72 Gato? I REALLY need them for the U-Boat and Gato.

Steve

 

I know how you feel mate, as you know, i wish i had drilled out the holes in my S-Boat.

They are from Schatton Modellbau. They do a set for the Type IX U-Boat, but i just checked scalemates and it doesn't appear they do them for the GATO.

https://www.scalemates.com/kits/schatton-modellbau-7241-periskope-fuer-das-revell-u-boot-vii-c--103551

This is the Type VII set.

TheMongoose

Docidle looks like if you can mount the tube inside where you want it, that would be the starting point. Then you can open a small hole from the ouside and make it progressively bigger. That way you don't risk having a hole bigger than the tube or that doesn't match the slanted profile that you're going to have. To me that's the hardest part about those compound curves.

 

Mongoose,

I agree with you on your methods and I got a good chunk of the drilling, reaming and sanding done today using your advice. I was sweating bullets to say the least on the exterior portions of the tubes. I used the kit parts and started drilling with a small diameter and enlarging the size as I went. 

Anyway, I’ll post some photos in the next couple of days to show the progress. So far, I’m mildly optimistic!

Steve

GMorrison

The base looks good, and walnut seems a nice choice.

The display is a choice many use, usually for larger ships!

It actually in no way represents how a drydock works. No worry there; it looks better than the real thing by far.

So I would think more of the same finish as the base plate, maybe one shade lighter; would look nice.

 

Bill,

Thanks for the input sir, I always appreciate it. Since the base is Red Oak and the blocks are Basswood the stain would react differently with each, So your idea of a lighter and darker look would work. I was also thinking of using my old standby stain mix for restoring Oak antiques, which is Golden Oak with Walnut added for depth. Maybe more Walnut added to give it an English Oak look.

Steve