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Formula One Group Build

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  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Monday, July 4, 2022 6:24 PM

Thank you, John.

I hope things aren't too hectic for you.

-Greg

  • Member since
    January 2020
  • From: Maryland
Posted by wpwar11 on Monday, July 4, 2022 6:28 PM

I always struggle with shocks on open wheel cars.  Yours look incredible.  Are the shocks also Molotow pen or a steady hand with a paint brush?  

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Monday, July 4, 2022 6:55 PM

wpwar11

I always struggle with shocks on open wheel cars.  Yours look incredible.  Are the shocks also Molotow pen or a steady hand with a paint brush?  

 

Thanks very much, Paul.

Having never painted shocks before, the shocks were a long experiment! I'll spare you all the details and fails and try to be concise (hard for me)

  • I started out spraying the shocks with Tamiya Gold leaf acrylic (X-12), then applied several black enamel wash applications to get the recesses as black as I wanted them.
  • I wasn't happy with the results after wiping away the excess at the spring outsides, and the gold wasn't gold enough. So I brush painted the circumference with Vallejo Metal Color Gold, using a flat brush. (The new Vallejo Metal color, not the original Model Air metal colors....and the 'new formula' of the VMC).
  • Hand painted the top ends with Molotow (didn't do anything to the bottom end, don't think they will be visible
  • Then I messed up the whole thing by applying a clear sealer. Something reacted with either the Vallejo water based or testors enamel, creating the stringy mess you see in one of the detail pics.

But I thought they still look decent, and I'm really happy you do too. If they were to be visible, I'd probably have stripped and redone, but.....

I have a plan for the rear shocks, which I think will be more visible. I picked up a square jar of good old Testors square bottle gold at Hobby Lobby the other day and will be a part of the new plan. Smile

Thanks again for asking!!

 

-Greg

  • Member since
    January 2020
  • From: Maryland
Posted by wpwar11 on Monday, July 4, 2022 7:29 PM

Thanks for the detailed response Greg.  I hope you are enjoying the holiday.

Cheers,

Paul

  • Member since
    May 2011
  • From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted by Real G on Wednesday, July 6, 2022 2:18 PM

Greg,

By coincidence I was diddling around with some F1 shocks too (no, not the Brabham's  Embarrassed), and really liked your results!

I wanted to avoid the tedious cleanup of the mold lines on my kit shocks, so naturally I had to complicate things.  I cut away the springs and cleaned up the ends of the shocks, then made new springs using 0.020" styrene rods.

[

This was trial #1 - the pitch spacing was not consistent.

There was some trial and error, but what eventually worked was to take two 0.020" rods and wrap them in parallel onto a drill of the appropriate diameter.  Using tape to hold the coiled rods nice and tight to the drill, the whole thing was plunged into boiling water.  After cooling it off under running tap water, the tape was carefully removed and the now formed rods were slid off the drill.

The smaller front shocks needed punched discs at the lower ends, since the brackets had insufficient flare.

And here is the wierd part.  By gently turning the two coils in opposite directions, they could be "unthreaded" apart.  The result were two sets of springs with a nice consistent pitch.  Being plastic, the ends could be easily ground and tapered like the real thing, and they take paint well.  Adjusting the length is also easy, as they only have light spring force.

OK confession time - I only used a single diameter rod for the struts.  I know they should be 2-part telescoping tubes, but I got LAZY.  I'll try to trick the eye by painting the struts in two contrasting metallic colors and leave it at that.  If it looks bogus after completion, I'll do the struts properly next time.  Pinkie promise.

“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Thursday, July 7, 2022 7:37 AM

Holy Wow, G.... those springs/shocks look awesome!!

So you were able to wind the .020" round Styrene tubing around the drill bit at room temperature? (Before taping/boiling)?

Brilliant to wrap them in parallel to get the spacing, even though you ended up 'unwinding' them a bit more anyway.

Also, what paint/process did you use on the aluminium chassis interior? It looks very clean and thin. I used Tamiya X-11 on the bottom of my 'tub', and I'm not very happy with it, but having little experience with spraying Tamiya, I probably layed it one way to thick.

Thanks for sharing this!! Yes

-Greg

  • Member since
    May 2011
  • From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted by Real G on Thursday, July 7, 2022 5:10 PM

Greg,

Yes, the 0.020" rod can be easily wound around a drill bit without snapping.  They fight a bit when you try to tighten them so no gaps are visble between the coils, and you really need a third hand when taping everything together.

When the finished coils are unwound, they actually retain their pitch.  It's almost like magic the way they just thread apart.  This seems like a lot of work, but it does make it easier if the spring and shocks are to be painted different colors.

A friend who builds primarily car models asked if 0.025" or 0.030" rod would also work, but I haven't tried yet.

“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Friday, July 8, 2022 6:22 AM

Thank you for the additional info.

Before you responded, I had been musing about winding those styrene rods and tryng to visualize how to even get the coil started, hang onto them, etc. It's funny to me that you mentioned really needing a third hand. Smile

-Greg

  • Member since
    May 2011
  • From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted by Real G on Saturday, July 9, 2022 12:53 PM

Greg,

Yeah you really have to fight the rods into place while winding them!  I prepared cut pieces of tape stuck to the edge of my table so I could just swipe them when needed.

Oh and the tape - don't use hardware store masking tape to hold down the springs.  They leave adhesive residue after their boiling water bath and it is quite a pain to remove.  Instead, I have found Tamiya tape works best, as it has enough holding power to keep the rods in place, yet peel off cleanly afterwards.

The metallic paints I have been using are all Alclad.  I have heard Tamiya's aircraft aluminum in the spray can has a finer grain compared to other rattle can silvers.  The nice thing about the tamiya sprays is that even the metallics are durable and can take handling as well as some weathering washes.

“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Sunday, July 10, 2022 10:52 AM

Real G
Yeah you really have to fight the rods into place while winding them! I prepared cut pieces of tape stuck to the edge of my table so I could just swipe them when needed.

About as I figured, G. I tip my hat to your persistence.

Real G
Oh and the tape - don't use hardware store masking tape to hold down the springs. They leave adhesive residue after their boiling water bath and it is quite a pain to remove. Instead, I have found Tamiya tape works best, as it has enough holding power to keep the rods in place, yet peel off cleanly afterwards.

That's a great and timeless tip. I wouldn't have thought about effect of the boiling water bath. That said, I learned my lesson with hardware store masking tape some yrs ago, and use Tamiya exclusively. I figure the cost is worth it.

Real G
The metallic paints I have been using are all Alclad. I have heard Tamiya's aircraft aluminum in the spray can has a finer grain compared to other rattle can silvers. The nice thing about the tamiya sprays is that even the metallics are durable and can take handling as well as some weathering washes.

3 comments that hit home with me in your one post. Oddly, I started out with Tamiya Silver acryl from the bottle, airbrushed on, on the main 'tub' of my monocoque chassis. Very impressed with the durability, but it looked like painted plastic so I stripped it and tried various things. I stripped that poor part so many times, but ended up going full circle back to Alclad polished alum over a nice gloss black coat.

I'll have to try the Tamiya rattle can aircraft alum, thank you for the tip.

-Greg

  • Member since
    June 2018
  • From: Ohio (USA)
Posted by DRUMS01 on Thursday, July 14, 2022 4:14 PM

Real G: The  method for your coil over shocks is sweet. That is one of the many reasons I read and contribute to this forum, all the good tips and advise. Ive also used fine solder to make those springs (depending on the model scale). Sure can't argue with your result though as they look amazing!

jeaton01: Following your Honda build really brought back some good memories when I built mine. Your results is spot on and looks great! That engine is almost too nice to cover up (plumbed or not). 

Greg: I'm the same way regarding the little details that will eventually be covered up. But, like you I enjoy detailing them anyway (and I know the details are there). Also like how the fire bottles came out, they look great!

GMorrison: How is that Ferrari 312 coming along?

I'm finally feeling good and finished my 1/350 IJN Yamato, so I want to say I'm "ALL IN" on the F1 build now. First post about the Auto Union coming soon. 

Ben / DRUMS01

"Everyones the normal until you get to know them" (Unknown)

PROJECTS:

1/350 Tamiya Yamato - DONE

1/20 Revival 1936-37 Auto Union Tipo C  - WIP

1/32 Hasegawa F-16C - Staged

 

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2011
  • From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted by Real G on Thursday, July 14, 2022 5:22 PM

Ben and Greg,

I'm not sure if I'm the first guy to make springs in that manner, but I am glad they turned out OK.  And like cooties in kindergarten, I'm happy to share!  Stick out tongue  Hopefully others will find the technique useful.  (Remember all those silly tips on what to use empty 35mm film cannisters for?)

I'll confess that I'm working on the Tyrrell P34 again, but I'll get on the Brabham right after.

“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”

  • Member since
    June 2018
  • From: Ohio (USA)
Posted by DRUMS01 on Thursday, July 14, 2022 5:38 PM

Finally opened the box for my build, 1/20 Revival multi media model of the 1936/37 Tipo "C". Here is a brief history about the pre-war Auto Unions (Wikipedia):

The Auto Union Grand Prix Racing cars, types A to D, were developed and built by a specialist racing department of Auto Union's Horch works in Zwickau, Germany, between 1933 and 1939, after the company bought a design by Dr. Porsche in 1933.

Of the 4 Auto Union racing cars, the Types A, B and C, used from 1934 to 1937 had supercharged V16 engines that developed almost 620 horsepower. All of the designs were difficult to handle due to extreme power/weight ratios (wheelspin could be induced at over 100 mph (160 km/h)), and marked oversteer due to uneven weight distribution (all models were tail heavy). The Type D was easier to drive because of its smaller, lower mass engine that was better positioned toward the vehicle's center of mass.

Between 1935 and 1937, Auto Unions won 25 races. Auto Union proved particularly successful in the 1936 and 1937 seasons. Their main competition came from the Mercedes Benz team, which also raced sleek, silver cars. Known as the "Silver Arrows", the cars of the two German teams dominated Grand Prix racing until the outbreak of World War 2 in 1939.

For 1936, the engine had grown to the full 6 litres, and was now producing 620 bhp (460 kW); and reaching 258 mph (415 km/h) in the hands of Rosemeyer and his teammates, the Auto Union Type C dominated the racing world. Rosemeyer won the Eifelrennen,  German, Swiss and Italian Grands Prix and the Coppa Acerbo (as well as second in the Hungarian Grand Prix). He was crowned European Champion (Auto Union's only win of the driver's championship), and for good measure also took the European Mountain Championship. Varzi won the Tripoli Grand Prix (and took second at the Monaco, Milan  and Swiss Grands Prix). Stuck placed second in the Tripoli and German Grands Prix, and Ernst Von Delius took second in the Coppa Acerbo. In 1937, the car was basically unchanged and did surprisingly well against the new Mercedes W125, winning 5 races to the 7 of Mercedes-Benz. 

My build will represent the dual rear wheeled 1936 car championed my Hans Stuk during the hill climbing events. 

For those not knowledgible of the Revival brand of model kits, they make a economy level kit with plastic wheels and bodies, and a high end kit with metal pre-painted bodies, full metal chassis and running gear, and beautiful metal spoked wire wheels; the kit I'm building is the latter. 

The box comes with a nice photo of the completed model on the top:

After taking the cardboard box top off, you see this (covered in a plastic shell):

While the large instruction book is nice, underneath the instructions is better:

Here are the little parts:

The large metal bags of parts:

Plastic:

Dually wheels and decals:

The four major complaints with the Revival kits are (a) the lack of accurate details, (b) many large mold or casting lines and flash on all metal parts, (c) many instances where the applied paint on the bodies bubble or flake off, and (d) extreme difficulty putting the rubber wheels over the metal inner liners. Oh!, and one other thing with the Revival kit line is the inconsistant engineering quality from kit to kit. While some build beautifully, some are much more difficult to fit correctly. Other than the mold lines and flash I hope to not run into any of the other issues during the Auto Union build, but at least it will not be a surprise if I do.

The instructions sheet is laid out in typical Revival manner, meaning if you are expecting part by part arrow and written instructions and paint call outs you will be disappointed:

I've built several Revival Grand Prix kits over the years, so I think I know what to expect. Up next, the build starts....

Ben / DRUMS01

 

"Everyones the normal until you get to know them" (Unknown)

PROJECTS:

1/350 Tamiya Yamato - DONE

1/20 Revival 1936-37 Auto Union Tipo C  - WIP

1/32 Hasegawa F-16C - Staged

 

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2011
  • From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted by Real G on Thursday, July 14, 2022 7:21 PM

Ben,

That is a stunning model you have chosen for the GB - and SIX WHEELS!  Yes  I love it already,

“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by keavdog on Thursday, July 14, 2022 9:05 PM

Man that looks like a fun kit!

Thanks,

John

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Thursday, July 14, 2022 9:27 PM

Monster car and kit!

John

To see build logs for my models:  http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.htm

 

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Friday, July 15, 2022 9:50 AM

Ben, that looks like quite a project. And based on your description, a challenge as well.

The packaging reminds me of the classic Pocher kits back in the 60's/70's.

I wonder if they know they have the steering wheel facing the wrong way?? Smile

Meanwhile, I've been away for a week and am looking forward to getting back to my Lotus build at home.

 

-Greg

  • Member since
    June 2018
  • From: Ohio (USA)
Posted by DRUMS01 on Friday, July 15, 2022 7:48 PM

Thanks everyone for the great words. I can only hope to earn them through this build. 

Greg: They are no where near as difficult as the Pocher 1/8 kits, but they are plenty challenging enough in thier own right. I look forward to your next Lotus update. As for the backwards steering wheel, you know the Germans had a "thing" going on back then, so that most likely explains the unique engineering. Plus remember that these cars were originally designed by Dr. Porsche all the way back in 1933. If I remember correctly, Porsche finally made a successful series of rear engine cars. Wink

Well, prior to starting the build I always recommend you study and inventory of any Revival kit. Fortunately for me Revival's part 1 to step 1 is rather simple as far as parts counts go. Revival was also thoughtful to keep all the small parts needed for part 1 in one small bag which minimized the searching for parts (especially since they are not numbered or marked other than the bag itself). 

Next is to take out the necessary tools needed to complete a Revival kit; files, sandpaper, and various jewelers screwdrivers and pliers and snips (along with the regular modeling stuff). 

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Every part in part 1 of step 1 is made in cast metal. This means that every part will need considerable filing and cleaning to remove flash and ejection pin marks. I recommend taking special attention to all mating surfaces and holes or cutouts for future items. While thin flash can be removed by a dull hobby knife, the larger areas and those connected at the sprue point will need filing. 

One neat thing I noticed was the internal axles inserted inside and protruding as screws out of the transaxle are made of brass and they articulate, good job and kudo's to Revival. Here is what I'm referring to.

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To attach the engine / transaxle sides together it requires two very small screws. How small you say? Just the typical Revival type of screw...... look.

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I cannot stress how important it is to test fit and clean and true everything prior to assembly. If you do not there will be gaps or parts laying crooked within assemblies. Both screw holes are then covered with plugs glued in representing an engine or transaxle part. 

Once the halves were screwed together I also dropped some CA cement into the inside seams of the block which filled the small gaps. Now take another look at the engine halves and true the sides to one another by filing, which will also removed the stepped seams in the cast metal. The top part of the engine is attached by a long screw through the bottom of the oil pan and up into a joint under the top engine head and intake. The kit does not provide any fill for that screw, but I will make an oil drain plug to cover it from spares.

The left, right, and center camshaft covers are attached by glue. Again filing and truing the parts for a flush fit will be necessary. In fact, the center cam cover was bent by at least 1/32 inch so careful pressure and bending was needed for the correct fit.

In the photo below you can see some of the filing done to the transaxle casing. It still needs further work to remove the file marks. Then there's also the need for some scratch detailing on top of the transaxle and perhaps some bolt heads on the intake and other areas; and later on to painting. 

Image

Next update will be paint, then part 2 step 2. Till then, comments or constructive input is welcome.Yes

Ben / DRUMS01

"Everyones the normal until you get to know them" (Unknown)

PROJECTS:

1/350 Tamiya Yamato - DONE

1/20 Revival 1936-37 Auto Union Tipo C  - WIP

1/32 Hasegawa F-16C - Staged

 

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Saturday, July 16, 2022 8:55 AM

I'm worn out from you putting that engine block together, Ben.

You've reminded me of a cast classic car I tried to build as a kid. Never got anywhere at all with it. Had no idea what to do, really.

-Greg

  • Member since
    June 2018
  • From: Ohio (USA)
Posted by DRUMS01 on Sunday, July 17, 2022 7:40 PM

Moving to phase 2 of part 1 in the instructions problems occurred right away. 

Image

Specifically, the casting sprue that contained the fuel pump (the item in front of the engine block), the fuel pick-up tube (the item attaching to the fuel pump, and the water pump (the item that inserts in the left front of the engine block that also has a fully with belts), are all missing from the kit. This is now the third Revival kit in a row that has one or more parts missing (?), so I question the quality control of Revival in general. Now I am researching the details of the real parts so I can scratch build them.

So at this point I am stuck in phase2 of part 1 until I can find detailed images or drawings of those parts. That gave me time to start looking at other parts a little closer; here is what I found out:

(a) The main body has a heavy seam through the top center running the entire length front to back.

Image

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(b) Every body part will need attention to remove ejection pin marks, tabs, etc.

Image

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(c) The engine cover has a couple tabs molded into one of the sides and the thickness from one side or the panel to the other is grossly inconsistent (see photo). And yes, this does impact the fit of the engine cover on the body.

Image

(d) The front cover not only has ejection pin marks, but also flash inside the vent that needs cleaning. I would've thought the flash should've been removed prior to painting the part (?).

Image

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(e) The seam between the upper body and the belly pan is not uniformed, flat, but instead partially rounded which causes gaps between both.

Image

(f) The water, and fuel tanks are made of plastic and have large seam issues when assembled. Also the tube chassis has seams and ejection pin marks to be resolved.

Image

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(g) And the rubber / flexible hoses show fittings, junctions, and cylinders molded in within the instructions but they are not on the part or a separate themselves. These fittings and cylinders will need to be scratch built. In addition the instructions do not show where the transaxle hoses join with the axle boot covers (?) or that they show attached to the side of the transaxle but there is no means or direction to do that on the model kit.

(h) There is no molded in details inside the body work but actual source photos show reinforcement ribs and joints that will also need to be scratch built to authentically replicate the real car. 

With all this said, I am locating the detail pictures and will be working those areas before moving forward.

Till next time...

Ben / DRUMS01

"Everyones the normal until you get to know them" (Unknown)

PROJECTS:

1/350 Tamiya Yamato - DONE

1/20 Revival 1936-37 Auto Union Tipo C  - WIP

1/32 Hasegawa F-16C - Staged

 

 

 

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by keavdog on Sunday, July 17, 2022 7:54 PM

Maybe not so fun... Tongue Tied.  Looks like a lot of work and a bit of a different skill set.  What do you fill with?  I guess bondo would work.  Still fun to watch the build of this car.

Thanks,

John

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Monday, July 18, 2022 8:03 AM

keavdog
Looks like a lot of work and a bit of a different skill set.

I was thinking the same.

keavdog
What do you fill with?

Ditto that.

-Greg

  • Member since
    March 2015
  • From: Close to Chicago
Posted by JohnnyK on Monday, July 18, 2022 1:50 PM

I enjoy building challenging kits, but this kit does not look like a fun build. Good luck with this one.

Your comments and questions are always welcome.

  • Member since
    June 2018
  • From: Ohio (USA)
Posted by DRUMS01 on Monday, July 18, 2022 11:49 PM

JonnyK: I have to agree, while I thought it may be a little challenging, it is already becoming a monster. 

Moving on with part 2 or phase 2 of Step 1. I managed to get some photos for the parts I'm going to replicate:

Image

Image

Perhaps I should've done a step-by-step picture shoot on how I made the parts:

- FRONT OF BLOCK PUMP(?) It started as an extruded plastic rod cut to the proper length. The center was drilled and small extruded plastic rod was added around the outside of the main part to replicate the contours where the bolts ran through the part. Next was adding the steps or features of the casting where I used solder for the facing and filed to shape. I still need to detail paint the bolt heads. The tube coming out of the pump is make of hollow aluminum simply cut and bent to shape with a spares fitting added to the end. 

- SIDE WATER PUMP(?): This part was a little more complex. It started as a larger size hollow plastic extruded tube. I cut and filed two holes across from each other. A similar sized hollow aluminum rod was bent to the approximate angle shown in the instructions and photo then inserted through both holes. Next was more solder built up and shaped for the external fitting. The face and rear of the pump was covered with a die round stamping of sheet plastic that was glued to main part, The facing was then drilled and a brass rode added to represent the shaft for the fully to go on. The I added the same diameter small plastic rod outside the body of the pump to replicate the contours and bolts that run through the assembly. Last a very fine precision solder was wound around a same brass rod that was used as the pull shaft. It was cut with a razor knife thus creating very fine circles. One of this circles was added to the base of the shaft for a spacer for the pully. 

Anyway, here is what I ended up with to create the three missing parts:

Image

Image

All this scratch work has got me thinking of how I can improve other elements of the engine or simply add more detail. One of the first things that came to mind was the replacement of the rubber ignition lines and conduit. The kist hat a rather thick ignition line leading into a rubber conduit that is suppose to be metal. The kit part looks terrible, but I may use part 9or none) of the rubber along with a polished aluminum conduit replacement. At this point I'm still brain storming.

Image

As you can tell by the last engine photo, I've also began painting the engine. There is still much to do with the ignition lines, file injection assembly, other hoses, the entire supercharger, the exhaust headers, detail painting, etc. Here are some detail images of the real engine to give you an idea what I'm working towards:

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And here is a photo of the interior body reinforcements I may replicate after filling in the ejection pin marks and seams:

Image

I've also been cleaning up the tube chassis and its corresponding supports and brackets while the paint dries on the engine. 

Image

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It's hard to believe there were men willing to sit on this chassis with zero safety standards and half their body exposed going over 250 MPH. I can only imagine that the braking points with those skinny tires were W-A-Y longer that what we see today. Thank goodness they had that large windscreen to protect them (just kidding... that was a joke):

Image

I should have more to show tomorrow.

Ben / DRUMS01

"Everyones the normal until you get to know them" (Unknown)

PROJECTS:

1/350 Tamiya Yamato - DONE

1/20 Revival 1936-37 Auto Union Tipo C  - WIP

1/32 Hasegawa F-16C - Staged

 

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Wednesday, July 20, 2022 8:24 AM

This is rather petty after Ben's scratchbuilding report above, but I'm posting it anyway.

I don't remember ever improvising or scratchbuilding anything, ever. I had a tweezer disaster last night, sent two tiny parts flying. This almost led to a new rant thread about tweezers, but......

So anyway, after spending almost 3 hrs crawling about the floor, under the bench, you all know the drill....decided to be proactive and whittled out the two little do-dads below from left over sprues and a piece of .025 piano wire.

The two do-dads are in the center of the image.

Almost time to move on to the engine, just have to finish the cockpit.

Thanks for the incentive, Ben.

-Greg

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Wednesday, July 20, 2022 12:27 PM

Nice recovery, Greg.  Some kind of valve handles?

That engine in back, 250 mph car?  In a crash how is the driver not going to be a bug on a windshield!

John

To see build logs for my models:  http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.htm

 

  • Member since
    May 2011
  • From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted by Real G on Wednesday, July 20, 2022 1:25 PM

Greg, if the "doo-dads" are to connect hoses, your fix will be more durable anyway.  Good job! Yes

“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Wednesday, July 20, 2022 1:30 PM

jeaton01
Nice recovery, Greg. Some kind of valve handles?

Thank you, John. Smile The lower one definitely looks like a valve handle. The upper one looks more like a hose connector, as G mentions above.

jeaton01
That engine in back, 250 mph car? In a crash how is the driver not going to be a bug on a windshield!

I know! Building this model has me thinking about so many things about these cars that I have never considered before.

And not only that, I presume that is the gas tank directly behind the driver. Yikes.

-Greg

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Wednesday, July 20, 2022 1:33 PM

Real G

Greg, if the "doo-dads" are to connect hoses, your fix will be more durable anyway.  Good job! Yes

 

Thank you, G!

Say, that is true, it will be. I hope I didn't make these things too big so they restrict the engine/rear chassis assy later!

I just realized how handy it was that some of the US kit instructions labeled parts so we knew what they were/are. As a kid, I really didn't care. I do now and would like to know what a lot model parts represent.

-Greg

  • Member since
    June 2018
  • From: Ohio (USA)
Posted by DRUMS01 on Wednesday, July 20, 2022 3:51 PM

Great save Greg, I knew you had it in you even if you were not too sure. They sure came out looking like the real deal. Like you say, the "valve" and Fitting"(?). I am in the same situation with the Auto union (no part descriptions, part numbers, color call-outs, etc.). Good skills there mate....

Hey John, I think I have to retract the 250mph. I saw that in a web site but I believe it was suppose to be 250 kph (155+ mph), not mph. The reason I say this is because the enclosed streamliner world record cars were only rising a little above 200 mph at the time and they were both more powerful and more aerodynamic. Still, with no seatbelts or zero other safety devices, I think the bug on the windshield analogoy is still on the money.

I am sharing this build on a couple other forums and was asked about Hans Stuk. Specifically, why didn't the Revival Model Company make the car for Rosemeyer, or one of the other 36-37 racers versus Stuk? Not having a solid answer I did some investigating and have this biography concerning Stuk. I think it fully explains why:

HANS STUK (King of the Mountains 1900 - 1978):

Hans Stuck was known as the 'King of the Mountains'. His forte was hill-climbing-or mountain races - but he was also an accomplished Grand Prix driver and record breaker. He competed until the early 1960s, collecting trophies and championships before finally retiring from motor sport to coach his son Hans-Joachim, who by the 1970s was one of Germany's leading racing drivers. Born in Warsaw (his parents were in business in Poland) on 7 December 1900, Hans Stuck enlisted in the artillery during World War 1. Afterwards he studied agriculture and engineering before settling down to help manage his parents' estates. His first car was a Diirkopp, little known outside Germany it was both fast and well-constructed. Hans soon set his engineering knowledge to good use modifying it for competition.

A quick road driver, his friends suggested he should compete in the Baden-Baden hill-climb in 1925, and bet him a crate of champagne he could not survive the distance! He did, and won his class. The following winter, Stuck tried his hand at ice racing while on holiday at Garmisch and won again. Then he decided to try some more famous events in 1926, entering his 2-liter Diirkopp P8B in the Salzberg and Latisbon hill-climbs and the Solitude races for fun. Again, he won his class each time. In 1927, Stuck was approached by Austro-Daimler to race one of their sports cars. Later, he graduated to a special, short-wheelbase 3-liter racing version. He won seven events in 1927, fourteen in 1928, nine in 1929 and twelve in 1930. In 1928, he was Swiss Mountain Champion, in 1929 and 1930 he was acclaimed as Austrian Mountain Champion and in 1930 he was European Mountain Champion. He was known as the 'King of the Mountains'. The crowds loved the spectacular driving style of the 6 ft 2 in blond extrovert.

In 1930, he visited Britain, and set a new course record at Shelsley Walsh. In 1931, Stuck was approached by Mercedes- Benz to drive their 7-liter SSK cars, and he won the Lemberg Grand Prix. The following year, when Mercedes withdrew, he bought his own SSK and took it to South America where he won the Brazilian Mountain Grand Prix. Upon his return to Europe, he repeated his win in the European Mountain Championship once more. In 1934, Stuck was chosen to lead the new Auto Union Grand Prix team, and soon learned how to handle the difficult, sixteen cylinder, rear-engined machines. After establishing new records for one-hour, 100 miles and 200 km on the banked Avus track in Berlin, Stuck won the German, Swiss and Czechoslovakian Grands Prix, was second in Italy and fourth in Spain. With four hill-climb victories to add to this list of achievements, he was undisputed German Champion (had there been a World Championship in pre-war times, Stuck would almost certainly have won this, too). He concluded his most successful season by taking a streamlined Auto Union to a 201 mph flying-mile record.

In 1957, Stuck joined BMW as a demonstration and racing driver. Driving a 3-liter BMW 507, he won the GT class in many hill-climbs. Later, he switched to the 700CC BMW saloon; in 1960, he won a twelve-hour race at Hockenheim with the little BMW, co-driving with Sepp Greger. In 1963, Stuck finally retired at the age of 62. He had participated behind the wheel in over 700 events during the 38 years, and won 427 times.

So, in that span of racing (more than one of the early era's), to survive let alone thrive is quite remarkable in itself. For him to create his legend in motor racing that has endured even today is exceptional. This is the drivers car I'm attempting to replicate.

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Ben / DRUMS01

"Everyones the normal until you get to know them" (Unknown)

PROJECTS:

1/350 Tamiya Yamato - DONE

1/20 Revival 1936-37 Auto Union Tipo C  - WIP

1/32 Hasegawa F-16C - Staged

 

 

 

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