ARMOR - Tamiya 1/16 Tiger 1 Group Build

Engine Screens: WARNING



I'll warn ANYONE using the Aber screens that the edge folds are ~bloody~ difficult!!! If you are buying separate frets, BUY THE TAMIYA! If you are worried, stuff the fold, and just cut the edges off!

I've tried 4 times, and so far have bent the ~full~ edge 4 times and come close to putting my thumb thru the screen during a fold attempt! (this being the larger screen)

I'm not an idiot, and not a klutz, but that etch-line is just too close to the screen edge to fold (see the ~real~ cause below~)

( Time-out ... )

I just gave it one last try, and it takes a FRESH fold-blade (if you don't have one, you're scr*w'd, go buy one ~now~) You also have to edge your way into the fold from one side. Try to do it as they tell you to will ~wreck~ your screen. Once you have blade clearance, toss the fold blade and use a chisel-tip X-acto to increase the fold.

WhiteWolf
(putting the PE away and having something alcoholic)

Additional:

After a bit of 'tranquilizer' (I don't advocate mixing hobby blades & alcohol) I've found that a decent share of the problem is the Hold & Fold! unit.

Its single knob and close-set side-pins prohibit using the outer corners as fold areas, something that would have been a ~distinct~ advantage with the screens. The pins are NOT removable, and the knob is small, though I used my camera tripod knob instead (both are 1/4-20)

I've contemplated a few alterations, but will sell this thing and buy an Etch-mate, and write this off as a learning experience (albeit a costly one)

Additional #2:

Well , looks like I have to move ~up~ to the 8" H&F, as the Etch-Mate as the same flaws that I've come up against with the 4" H&F. It actually has ~more~ alignment pins, also non-removable, and a single knob (though a better one) That means my 4" is still available, as I have to place ANOTHER order.

A rather unhappy WhiteWolf

Hello Gents,

Well I have excellent news. Thanks to you guys and a bro in my tank club I have successfully modified my transmitter with the momentary pushbutton switches! The switches I had worked, the problem was that they were momentary CLOSED. Ugh! I never claimed to be an electrician. Anyway, I went to Radioshack and picked up the momentary open switches and it worked! Man, I am soooo glad this got fixed. I didn't realize my mistake until I went home and looked at the back of the package where it said "closed". I also bought some 10k resistors, but they were not needed since the trim tabs were not at fault. Man, do I feel like a schmo. So yes, the Futaba Attack transmitter can be modified as per the instructions on the Fragarmor website. Thank you Lester; I think you were the first one to mention the different switches. A word of advice to anyone else planning on making these same mods: When you go to solder the wires to the switch terminals, use a heat sink between the soldering iron and the switch itself. Failure to do so usually results in a melted, ruined switch.

Roy

Hey WhiteWolf, You know you can bend the p/e from either end don't you? Put the short bend under the edge of the fold head and bend the long side up...save you buying stock in p/e bending tool companies.

Just a thought.

Eric

Roy, that's good news!
No need to feel like a schmo, bro! I wouldn't have known where to begin at all!

WhiteWolf, I'm afraid I don't quite understand the nature of your folding problem. I have the Etch Mate, and it does a great job on all sizes of folds, even using the outer tines or with the head reversed for big folds. Perhaps it is machined to tighter tolerences than the Hold n Fold, I don't know.

I sure will take extra care when attempting that fold on the grills, though.
Thanks for the warning!

Erush:

Yea, I know... thats how I b*ggered up the first screen! The thin strip is too finicky to do as easily as the side fenders (see my 'technique' that finally worked, after I'd damaged the screen)

I found it MUCH easier to put the majority under the head and fold the ~edge~ up with the rear screens, but due to placement of the head alignment pins, you CANNOT do that with the larger ones, ~unless~ you have the 8" Hold&Fold , which has no pins between the twin lock-knobs.

Hence my 4" is going out the door soonest, and i've got to order the 8" unit (another $25 & whatever loss I take on the 4", plus more shipping)

WhiteWolf (wishing he'd blown for the 8" right off)
( realizing he's ordered Dirk's turret track holders )

Roy! I'm so glad your were able to get your radio mod to finally work! You're welcome! Good advice about the heatsink. I almost melted one of my switches too. It's so much nicer operating the tanks with those gun control modifications. I tried emailing the top brass at FragArmor about the typos and problems with their instructions on their website, but the email addresses were no longer valid. Maybe somebody there reads this forum and will make the corrections. Have fun!
Lester

Congrats on getting it to work Roy! I just knew you weren't going to rest until you got the kinks worked out



Progress on mine.....

We have color!

Looking GOOD Eric!!! I thought Wittman's was gray under the white wash though?? I don't claim to be any expert, or are you doing the gray over that?

Well I'm a long way from color yet. Here's a pic of the tool box on the rear that I just finished up though. Slowly but surely



I'll have to relink this when it gets moved.
Edit: relinked photo

Eric

QUOTE: Looking GOOD Eric!!! I thought Wittman's was gray under the white wash though?? I don't claim to be any expert, or are you doing the gray over that?

Eric,

Believe it or not, his Tiger S04 was a 3 color scheme. It's tough to tell from the normal photos that are on the web. I got as many pics together as I could regarding this particular tank.

I got confimation on this when I got Hussar's decals. If you look at the paint guide on the decals, you see that it also calls out for a 3 color scheme.

Hey Eric, I forgot to mention this...

Did you make a 1/16 set of wrenches to put in the toolbox?

.....And you better have a spare key for that lock!

DOH!! Ok, like I said I'm no expert!! I hadn't look at his scheme close I guess! Well keep up the good work and keep the pictures coming!!

Eric

Hey guys,

Dang Eric, she is looking GOOOOOOOD! I have to ask, are you using a spray can or an airbrush for the base color? I noticed a difference in the surface consistency and look between the two. Erush (I have to use your screen name or else I get discombobulated!), that tool box is seriously detailed. Is the lock part of the Aber set, or did you scratch build it? Looks outstanding. I'm chomping at the bit to see ya'lls completed work. Especially J-Hulk's... (Hint hint!) Hopefully I gave him the camo bug. I'm kinda nervous about being the first one finished, since I know you guys are going to show me up. Keep rolling!

Roy

Thanks Roy, The lock is part of the Aber set, it even has a key too!! All the latches work on it btw. I'm actually starting to get the hang of working with those itty bitty parts!

You have nothing to be nervous about, you did an outstanding job on your Tiger and I'm hoping mine looks as good as yours when I'm done!! Don't sell your self short, you did a lot of mods and detail with the zimmerit on yours and it's great!! We aren't going to show you up after that!

Eric

Okay, I have something to confess. I've been eyeing Tamiya's 1/16 Full Option Sherman... Is it wrong to buy and build the Sherman just so I can have something for my Tiger to shoot?

Okie:

It is ok if the Sherman isn't allowed to shoot back from cover!

Just kidding. But a more worthy opponent would be the Pershing.

Stripped the T1 down to parts for chassis plate production (I'm making my own due to shipping costs, and a machinist in the building)

Mike :

Lemme know soon on the gearbox pair, ok? I'm arranging a deal with Willy now, and want to know if I'm getting them off him, or you.

Word from Dirk:

... is that things are delayed and backed up due to a move on his part (residential) Things should be back to normal in January, but I'll keep ya up to date.

Willy is helping me tag the images properly, and with his help we've deciphered the few last items on the price list (with some items clarified)

WhiteWolf (with a box fulla Tiger bits!)

QUOTE: Originally posted by okieboy Okay, I have something to confess. I've been eyeing Tamiya's 1/16 Full Option Sherman... Is it wrong to buy and build the Sherman just so I can have something for my Tiger to shoot?

YES

Hey Sherm you should check out Henry Mergner's ebay auction items when they get posted Sunday 11/24/03. He's selling (among other things) a Tamiya Full Option Sherman. It was painted and weathered by another guy in the club who is really good at it. That is, if you're interested in something that's already built. You can see his R/C collection at the MAAD website.

Roy

QUOTE: Okay, I have something to confess. I've been eyeing Tamiya's 1/16 Full Option Sherman... Is it wrong to buy and build the Sherman just so I can have something for my Tiger to shoot?

NO

Roy,

I airbrushed the entire basecoat. I started off by using low air pressure for all the tight spots, then let it dry before the final coat.

To the Erics: Fine work, lads! The paint looks great, and that wee toolbox rox!! Erush, you are a master of the clean fold!

Roy, your camo sure has made me think...But to me, the perfect image of a Tiger I has always been big 'n' gray!
And with a kit of this magnitude, I gotta go with my perfect image!

I may just do a 1/35 Kitty in three-tone one of these days!

Today's progress:

I added a bit of Tamiya's XF-10 (Flat Brown) to the basecoat color and then highlighted the edges, panels and hatches. I then backed away and then shot the entire Tiger. It's just a tad shade darker but, gives it that "not so fresh" look, when compared to the pics posted above

I have also updated the website!

That does give it a bit of a "dirty" look Eric. Have you decided how you're going to do the white wash? Are you going to use a heavy oil wash to do it?

BTW I meant to mention that you probably made a good choice not using all the Aber stuff on your Tiger. I think most of it would end up coming off with a bit running around the yard, house, cats etc.!! I seem to bump something off everytime I work on it.

And Brian, Thank you for the compliment! Coming from you I gratefully except! They're not that clean if you could really see it close

Eric

Eric,

To tell you the truth, I'm a bit nervous about it. More than likely, I AM going to take the plunge! Being all that went into this so far, how could I not??

I have a few articles about applying the wash (one has the WW done with white chalk, mixed with water, if you mess up, it can be removed) I have a test model that I will be practicing it on.

What else on the Aber have you got for it Eric? I thought you gave most of it to WW?

I was thinking things like the front/rear fenders in particular. I know mine are not that sturdy. I figure the little pieces won't be that bad but anything with some weight to it or near the tracks will be succeptable.

Eric

Erock, that paint job is kick a$$ bro. After seeing your base coat, your finished product with white wash is guaranteed to be awesome. I can't wait to see it. (Sniff, makes me wanna dirty up my own now!) I might go back and postshade some with the buff/black mix. This is getting good.

Roy

Erush:

He sent me all the fenders (front/side/rear), plus the exhaust guard fret. I'm geting up the courage to glue the reinforcement underpieces to the side-fenders, hope to have 'em done this week (first applied glue to my PE!)

The engine grills were finished without further incident, though that odd curve where the rear grille flanges aren't bent down is finicky to get just right.

Not sure if I'll tackle the front or rear fenders next, though I'll probably assemble all the eye-bolts and other similar parts in one shot. May try to make a jig for the wingnuts like someone else did (Erock?)

I may tackle some of the single-part assemblies in between, like the fire extinguisher, toolbox, jack block, but i wanna give those hinges, latches and catches a shot. Probably the turret bins first!

WhiteWolf
(off to write to fellow tenant to get his belly plates made)
(and then to make up the blueprints for 'em!)

Eric, the chalk and water wash sounds like a good plan to me. It should be easy enough to remove if you need to. I'm curious to see how that will turn out. I'm sure you'll do a good job of it regardless. I can't wait to see it finished!

Eric

QUOTE: Erush: He sent me all the fenders (front/side/rear), plus the exhaust guard fret. I'm geting up the courage to glue the reinforcement underpieces to the side-fenders, hope to have 'em done this week (first applied glue to my PE!)

Sorry I didn't answer this sooner but, WW beat me to it

I kept the smaller detail pieces. One's that I think enhance the fine work Tamiya has already done. There were a few cases where, I had the PE ready to go, started examining the original and found that, I was going to be cutting and sanding off the same detail I would be gluing on.

Of course there were some that needed the detail. I.E. the smoke dischargers.

I hear you on the detail stuff Eric. Just like the tool box I did. It has good molded detail but I figured it would look even better with the p/e on there and especially since mine is a static kit, i've decided to do as much as I can that does improve it even if it's a small improvement. I wouldn't blame you for anything you decide not to do on your's since it's r/c and going to be run.

Eric

Today's progress,

Can you say Dark Green? I knew you could....






I don't know what it was but, the first shot out of the airbrush and my hand was shaking I guess I was nervous but, after that, It just took over!

I lightly penciled the pattern, directly on the Tiger and went from there.

Multi color!!!!

Oops, forgot..."Dark Green"

Eric