SPITFIRE GROUP BUILD 2007-2008

Hey Guys, just a progress update.  I masked and sprayed the strip I forgot and man it was hard.  I hope it is in the right place.

Tell me what you guys think.  And also I want to spray my model with future but I have never done it. Can someone give me some advice to let me know if I can just spray it through the brush or not?  And if there are any problems I may encounter?

Chris

Thanks Frank.  I will be using the kit decals for No. 610 Squadron.  They look o.k. so I figured I would use them.

Chris

phoenix7187 wrote:

Anyway here are some tips for weathering in your decals. ....  Another method of weathering decals and camo in general is called dusting.  .... Start off light and work you way up slowly. It's easy to over weather.

Thank you a lot for the tips !!!!!

I will use them with my Spit for sure :)

Thanks again

Greg 

David, Greg, and Roy Thanks for the comments.

Greg, I used MM Dark Earth, RAF Sky Type S, and Dark Green.

Roy, I used a light ghost grey but for the MKII I'm doing for the build I will use RAF Interior Green.

Thanks Chris

Chris, well done my friend   What color did you use for the cockpit?

Roy

Chris,

Nice Spit !

It looks to me you are closer to take off than I am :) - its nice you used the open door , I missed this one :( - but my cockpit is pretty bad :)

What paints did you use ???

Greg

Looks good, the only thing I note is that in the last pic the green seems really light but I'm sure its just the camera flash.

David

Hey guys, I finally am posting the pics. This is the first camo mask I have ever done. The first pics are before I went over it again.

Let me know what you think.

Chris

On the real deal those marking would have been painted on and in most cases not new either. The marking then should be just as weathered as the surface around it. The model lacks consistency when you see a moderate to heavily weathered paint, dirt, gease, oil and such but the marking (decals) look like they were painted on yesterday by dupont. There are exceptions like JV44 aircraft. The added JV44 marking should look fresh while all there other marking should be pretty worn.

  Anyway here are some tips for weathering in your decals. Any panel line with discoloration around it, the discoloration should also pass through any decal as well. I do this by using a very fine airbruch nozzel (.025) and use what ever color I used to post/preshade the panel lines with. Do this after you have placed a clear coat of your choice over the decals. Another way to do this is if you like the weathering powers you can get pointed Qtips from most beauty suppy store and run this over the decal were the panel line passes through. I use both in some cases depending on the look I want.

Another method of weathering decals and camo in general is called dusting. I try to use what ever color is under the decal, or the most predominate color. Thin down the color you want and turn up the pressure on your compressor.  Next hold the model about 12 to 16 inches away. Start off with light spray and just lightly mist the model with paint. By moving the model closer and further away you will get a varying degree the overspray. this will make the decals blend into the weather finsh. IT will also soften the camo up and give it a sandy beaten look.  It takes some time to get it right. When you get good at this you can use it at adjust fade, camo depth and contrast, as well as lighten up shaded panel lines, and even fix minor decal edges that show up.

Don't forget if you marking close to or no any hatches, service panels, or were maintance personal walk you can use paint chipping and actually remove small piece of the decal with a knife to help give them that in service war look.

The best way to make realistic weathered marking is to paint with on. This method allows you to do alot of things in the appilaction process that make them look better than most any decal.

Start off light and work you way up slowly. It's easy to over weather.  

Thanks Phoenix.

I appreciate a bit more info - how to do all what you just mentioned ? ??

I have at least two days befre I touch this plane - time for a next lesson :)

Greg 

Thanks Mike :)

most of it is based on try and ... scrap :)

I should use Monogram for that :) it slows me down a lot, because I am a bit scared I will ruin the model if something goes wrong :)

Greg

Marc, Chris, Frank, Jon, Darren, David and Roy:

Thanks a lot. Yes it is my first AB job with Pre and post shading. My first AB job is my P51 - still working on it. However, at the time I did the P51 I did not know about shading at all. Since the Spitfire ws painted with a can and had a wrongly set UC I decided to redo it. In the meantime decided to jump into Mk II but I do not have enough data to go into Mk IIb so it will be Mk IIa instead. 

I still have a big problem with fixing the cockpit. It will decide if I keep the cockpit open or closed.

Thanks again for your kind words

Greg 

Greg-  That's your first AB paint job?   Looks to me like you have been painting with one for years.  It really is outstanding.  Love the faded paint, really looks the part!  I can't wait to see this one all dressed up.

Thanks Greg, that will come in handy!!

Chris

Chris,

this was a Tamiya 1/48 Mk Ia, I put a starter bumb and got Mk IIa - spinner will follow :)

It is my first Pre and Post shading - you may see my whole story on this craft :) here:

 /forums/786316/ShowPost.aspx

 I use Model Master enamel paint.

RAF Dark Green and RAF Dark Earth.

1. the whole craft with white primer

2. all panel lines with black

3. first coat of Dark Earth

4. added some white paint into Dark Earth and sprayed INSIDE panels - just a mist

5. Masked the Dark Earth

6. redo black panel lines (what visible)

7. put coat of Dark Green

8. added some white (about10%-20%) to Dark Green and painted INSIDE visible panels

DONE 

I used a scheme from Tamiya (A I think) but modified it a bit accordingly to the pictures of the P7962.

 The whole process is as described by Swanny (Thanks Swanny for a DVD - BTW when the next one will show up ? ) but an additional step is required caused by a second color (Dark Green) - Redo Black Panel lines - Thanks to Marc  

I may overdo this one but ... the plane was in service on other Squadron first and than came to 303 for service, so it was not new when showed up in Northolt (and I did not know better so it is what it is :) - at least found an excuse :) )

Greg 

Greg, looks great.  I have a few old models that I want to do the same thing as you did, repaint them.  Great job so far on your Spitfire.

Roy

Greg I just finished spraying the MKI.  Yours looks really good.  What did you do for the shading?  I will post pics within the next few hours.

Chris

here it is !

Mk IIa with just removed masking of the camo - I could not wait any longert to see the result. My first AB painted camo with Pre- and Post-shading !

 Next step will be painting the whole thing with glossy coat and Ihave to work on  the cockpit. Since it was my first model, I did not do good job - in fact I did a horrible job and now I need to fix it.

I will try to fit an Aduard panel and replace the current seat with the resin (with seat belts)

I will also try to redo side panels paint but not sure yet how to approach it. The worst scenario - I will make just a gun sight with Eduard part and close the cockpit :(

Another challange will be custom decals - Serial No and some special markings on both sides of the fuselage : INSPIRATION

This will be my first - from four committed to this group :) Spitfires everywhere !!!

Greg 

Cool, can't wait to see it done.

David

Hey Greg,

nice progress so far. Looking forward tom seeing more.

My Mk IIa - update

Just painted second coat of dark green - mask is stil on

soon this bird will look like Spitfire working hard for 303 Sdrn :)

Greg 

ps. this it hte one I stripped paint off and repainting as Mk IIa 

OK I am getting ready...  Just picked up an Eduard color PE cockpit and detail set which I will pick and choose some details with an old True Detail resin set. Got resin exhausts.  (I love shopping with a Father's Day gift certificate) And just got notification from Ultracast the Rotol prop blades/spinner, tires, and "C" wing cannons have been shipped. 

As long as I was there I picked up a Mk XIVc PE set and ordered another Academy kit... I liked the last one so much.  But alas... the gift certificate... she is no more  But that's OK... birthday coming up in August

I personally think that my best builds are ones where I kept it simple and cheap. It also makes me less nervous knowing that I am not going to ruin a $40 kit. But $5 for a Tamiya Zero, man you are one lucky guy.

David

David-

You really can't beat a $5 kit!  I bought a 1/48 Tamiya Zero for about the same price at a hobby store with a coupon, and turned out what I thought was a nice model with it.  I think there's absolutely nothing wrong with an inexpensive, simple build!  In fact, those are some of my favorites.