Knights of the Sky WWI GB The End

Frank, Marc some great looking progress.  I'm afraid to even start my build after seeing your work.

Stephen, flawless build (again)!  Gives the rest of us mere mortals something to aim at.

1/72 PE got you straining your eyes?   That's nothin' I tried a 1/700 scale aircraft carrier once.  Never again!!!!!  Nearly went blind.  In fact, half way through I had to take a two month break to let my eyes recover (or was it my nerves?)

I was going through a drawer and found a roll of 1/64" chart tape I bought like forever ago.  It looked like it would be perfect for the laminations on the camel prop.  After the clear orange dries I am going to sand it carefully and hit with some gloss.

Looking good, Marc!

I finally got some paint on my Camel last night. Should have some pics up by later today (if the football games get boring) or tomorrow (if they don't).

This is like building in 1/72... and I am too old and can't see 1/72

Only thing I dd was make the straps on the tank out of lead foil.  #11 for scale.  Fuselage gets buttoned up tonight.

Since it seems that I am slightly ahead of you… here are a few thing to watch out for.

I had a hell of a time getting some of these parts to fit.

The seat, tanks and frame fit fine so no worries there

The size of the pins and holes on the gun mount(?) and back of the IP don’t match but don’t just cut the pins off.  They provide spacing for the square ends and the bar on the front bottom of the IP to line up with the holes in the fuselage… bottom pg 5. Double check the fit of this assembly carefully.  Mine was short so when it was glued fuselage, it pinched the side in a bit so the engine mount would not go on the front. And the sides of the top piece, C2 or C7, stick way out over the edge.  It would have been nice if Eduard was a bit more clear in how these parts sit in relation to the square and round holes in the fuselage…. Flush? Recessed?

I have taken the IP assembly out and the engine mount just dropped right in and the cowl is also a perfect fit as is the top piece.  I just have to figure how to mount the IP back in there now.  The gas tank, B7, mounted to the back of the engine mount did not want to fit in the fuselage either.  I did some surgery on it but that was before I took out the IP and fixed the “width” problem

What is the correct green to use for the fuselage?  I am using kit decals and have no idea what H309 is. 

Greetings gents; If you are building the RFC / RAF version of the Sopwith F.1 Camel here is a bit of fun.

Click here

If you are going for the RNAS or RAF Sopwith 2F.1 Ship Camel there is another thread I could share. 

 Also the item behind the IP ("Instrument Panel" for the neophytes) is the ammo box and empty link chutes.  In all cases the empty shells were expelled from the upper chute on the pilot's left.  See page 3 of the link provided.

For the basic BEF upper surface paint coating "PC10" I use Testors Model Master Drab Earth.  Its available in enamel and acrylic and acts as a good base to spring board into PC 12  if it is called for.

Fillet spout tops are slightly recessed The tops are just above the opening lower lip on the F.1 & 2F.1 types.

Marc, thanks for the heads-up on the 'pit installation. My experience with Eduard bipes has shown me that some do not fit as well as others and require more than the usual amount of trimming and test fitting to get everything in. One installed, though, they are absolute jewels to look at!

Greetings, Stephen! I'm doing one of Barker's mounts. I was able to get my hands on some Pollyscale PC-10 and CDL, and plan on trying a few variations to existing pre-shading techniques to accentuate the rib detail on the wing, tailplane, and fuselage surfaces.

Here's a sharp looking Revell 1/28 Camel over on Hyperscale, check it out!

Sopwith Camel

StephenLawson wrote:

Greetings gents; If you are building the RFC / RAF version of the Sopwith F.1 Camel here is a bit of fun. Click here If you are going for the RNAS or RAF Sopwith 2F.1 Ship Camel there is another thread I could share.   Also the item behind the IP ("Instrument Panel" for the neophytes) is the ammo box and empty link chutes.  In all cases the empty shells were expelled from the upper chute on the pilot's left.  See page 3 of the link provided. For the basic BEF upper surface paint coating "PC10" I use Testors Model Master Drab Earth.  Its available in enamel and acrylic and acts as a good base to spring board into PC 12  if it is called for. Fillet spout tops are slightly recessed The tops are just above the opening lower lip on the F.1 & 2F.1 types.

Dan 

Daywalker wrote:

Here's a sharp looking Revell 1/28 Camel over on Hyperscale, check it out!Sopwith Camel

I have to admit she's a pretty bit of work, but just one or two caveats on this build.  Kris built the kit engine into a Clerget 130hp and in truth this machine B7270 was an RFC Sopwith Camel with a Bentley 150hp.  There is a pretty pronounced difference in the motors.  Also there is some question as to the markings on the day of 21 April, 1918.  No fuselage cockade for sure.  Just some thoughts.

ruddratt wrote:

". . .Greetings, Stephen! I'm doing one of Barker's mounts. I was able to get my hands on some Pollyscale PC-10 and CDL, and plan on trying a few variations to existing pre-shading techniques to accentuate the rib detail on the wing, tailplane, and fuselage surfaces."

Greetings ruddratt;  Remember that the CDL is the only surface where you will see shadows from internal structures.  The overpainted upper surfaces will have more to do with highlights and  paint tone differences.  Good Luck.  Also there is a great Book titled "Barker VC" you should read.  William Barker was a remarkable fellow and pilot.  Its a good read and beginning about page 140-5 you see some great information on 139 RFC / RAF and in particular Barker's steed and her various schemes. 

Amazon link here

dostacos wrote:

"Stephen, I just read your 'teaser" and you said on one posting that you were going downstairs to work. The question is, are you painting inside, and if so, what is the set up? Dan

Depending on the medium and the total extent of the job I have several methods.  Brush and airbrush are obvious.  Acrylic and enamels are obvious.   For extensive airbrushing breather filter / mask and a booth and a forced air flow vent out of a nearby basement window.  But if its a nice day I stand on the back deck and spray away.

StephenLawson wrote:

dostacos wrote: "Stephen, I just read your 'teaser" and you said on one posting that you were going downstairs to work. The question is, are you painting inside, and if so, what is the set up? Dan  Depending on the medium and the total extent of the job I have several methods.  Brush and airbrush are obvious.  Acrylic and enamels are obvious.   For extensive airbrushing breather filter / mask and a booth and a forced air flow vent out of a nearby basement window.  But if its a nice day I stand on the back deck and spray away.

the good news, in Los Angeles I rarely cannot go out side it's just those times when I want to hit something with just a little primer

Dan 

Dan the man you gottta quit hitting that poor little guy's noggin against the wall!  Ouch!  I know fellows that use cardboard boxes "modified" as spray booths.  No worries.

Nice link Stepehen... sure wish I had that yesterday

Every time I look at the rigging on this thing it sneds a shiver down my spine. Might not have been a best 1st choice.   

Thanks for getting back to me on that, Stephen. You read my mind when describing how I am going to apply those pre-shading techniques. I think they will go far in giving some depth to what would otherwise be a very monochromatic look. That book looks awesome as well. I'll be showing that link to my wife in case she needs any ideas for Christmas.

Also, on the prop for the Camel, were they all of laminated construction? I've noticed on some pics of restorations where the laminated look was not very obvious. Going on these, I painted mine with a single color base coat, added some darker woodgrain effects, and finally an orange tinted clear coat. What is your opinion?

Marc, hang in there, my friend. With your skills, that rigging should be a breeze. Just go slowly, one line at a time, and work from the inside to the outside. Start with some of the shorter runs just to develope a technique you're comfortable with and go from there. Once you get into a rythym, you'll see how easy it really is. It's time-consuming for sure, but well worth the effort.

dostacos wrote:

the good news, in Los Angeles I rarely cannot go out side

Could be worse, Dan. You could be here trying to airbrush outside. There's 6" of the white stuff already on the ground and it's still coming down!

Not quite as cold as here, Justin. I'm seeing why they refer to here as the great white north. It sure does look Christmasy, though!

ruddratt wrote:

"Thanks for getting back to me on that, Stephen. . . Also, on the prop for the Camel, were they all of laminated construction? I've noticed on some pics of restorations where the laminated look was not very obvious. Going on these, I painted mine with a single color base coat, added some darker woodgrain effects, and finally an orange tinted clear coat. What is your opinion?. . ."

From Page 22 here - "The good news is that depending on the manufacturer most British props especially for the Sopwith F.1 camel were overcoated in a red brown shellac.  The French did this too.  Other aircraft  that had these red brown propellers were Spad XII & XIII, Nieuport 11-27 types and SE 5 & 5a types.  This shellac did not let wood laminations show through." 

Above I said most British Props, there is also a translucent red brown varnish that was employed and the woods were not always alternating light and dark.

StephenLawson wrote:

This shellac did not let wood laminations show through."

So then in that respect my prop is too stark. Correct? I need to tone down the lamination.  I did notice form a real prop pic I got the number of lams right.

wing_nut wrote:

StephenLawson wrote: This shellac did not let wood laminations show through."  So then in that respect my prop is too stark. Correct? I need to tone down the lamination.  I did notice form a real prop pic I got the number of lams right.

Greetings Marc.  Like anything in war there were shortages. Noting my translucent redbrown reference here is a bit of fun.  From Page 28 here.

Thanks again, Stephen! Looks like my prop is good to go then. I had a feeling that this particular topic had been brought up earlier, but must have missed the specific post/posts addressing it. Glad your memory is better than mine! LOL!

Frank, looks like the snow is finally ending here. I measured about 7" of the white stuff in total. Looks like winter is kicking in (and that can be a good thing, as it promotes much more indoor activity! ).

ruddratt wrote:

Frank, looks like the snow is finally ending here. I measured about 7" of the white stuff in total. Looks like winter is kicking in (and that can be a good thing, as it promotes much more indoor activity! ).

If it's ending there, it means it's prolly heading here!