Knights of the Sky WWI GB The End

Wow Stephen, that is cool!  Looks like a lot of work, but well worth it in the end.

PM received, and updates made.

And thanks for the clarification, I hope I didn't confuse anyone.

Daywalker wrote:

". . .OK, here's what I trying to figure out how to fix.  The step to glue the top panel to really sticks out like a sore thumb in my eyes, with the cockpit being so visable.  What do you guys think. . ."

Just a little clarification if I might. What Frank is concerned about are the mating horizontal areas of the fuselage sides (upper longeron areas) and their contact with the upper forward deck.  When you look into the cockpit you can see the areas where a pilot's right shoulder would be.   Not the spine area.  The mating areas leave quite a seam where these shelves meet.

Daywalker wrote:

"...Excellent work as always Stephen!  The amount of detail you pack into each of these little gems never ceases to astound me.  Everytime I read "And now for a bit of fun", I get really excited because I know it's gonna be cool!.."

Hey Frank, when you can pick up one of these for about 20 USD. It really is not that hard to get carried away.

More Power Scotty wrote:

Daywalker, Although you are probably beyond your upper fuselage fit by now, I do not recall that being an issue with the two DML Dr. 1's that I have built.  I have been using Tenax for several years now, and the plastic alone did a decent job of filling the gap during assembly.  I really enjoy the DML kits, but perhaps I have lower standards than some.

Thanks MPS.  I could fill the gap, it's the entire lip on both parts that are troubling me.  IIRC, it should be an even radius up the side of the fuse, but the shelf to provide gluing area really shouldn't be there. Not quite sure how to fix it at the moment, short of stripping the paint and lozenge decal off of the inside, then removing the shelf and redoing the inside.  Probably why I haven't done it yet!

Excellent work as always Stephen!  The amount of detail you pack into each of these little gems never ceases to astound me.  Everytime I read "And now for a bit of fun", I get really excited because I know it's gonna be cool!

Justin- I really do hope you decide to build another kit for this GB!  It's been wonderful having you here, and you have proven that you can build ANYTHING!!!

Thanks, guys!!!  I really, really appreciate the kind words.  Mike, tell the wife thanks as well!!

I'm kinda sad that I'll be finishing up on this one... it's been nice "hanging out" with you fellas.  I may just have to start on another WWI kit!!!  After all, we've got til October, right?!

I have a bit more to go on this one.  I'll post up as soon as I'm through!!

You all are very welcome.  I am glad that I can make this a bit more enjoyable.

Justin, very impressive. Nicely done!  You would be surprised to learn how many build this kit but never attempt to fix the wheel axle with bungees.

Justin....man, what can I say? My jaw hit the floor when I saw your build. My wife was looking over my shoulder, and even she went "Wow!!! Look at that!!" From her, that's a rave!

Stephen, thank you for the info on adding some dimension to PE. I've got a 1/72 Eduard strip-down E.III that will benefit greatly from those techniques. Can't wait to try it!

Daywalker,

Although you are probably beyond your upper fuselage fit by now, I do not recall that being an issue with the two DML Dr. 1's that I have built.  I have been using Tenax for several years now, and the plastic alone did a decent job of filling the gap during assembly.  I really enjoy the DML kits, but perhaps I have lower standards than some.

Stephen,

Thanks for sharing that link on the scratch-built plane.  I am really raring to go on my photoetch Fokker Dr. 1 now!  I have an old Renwall (sp?) two-plane kit that I acquired a few years ago that includes a "fabric" to cover the plastic fuselage frame.  There is also a liquid cement in the kit that is supposed to adhere the "fabric" to the plastic.  Although I bought the kit with every intention of building it, I am debating if I want to do that or leave the kit as is. 

Justin,

Dang, that is looking SWEET!  The subtle shading you did to break up the monotone color really makes this one "pop!"  Can't wait to see her finished, she's a stunner!

Stephen, as usual, that model is awe-inspiring! Wow!

Thanks for the comments on my prop-- I know that I've got a way to go on the "wood" technique!

Here's where I am at the moment.  I've got some touch-ups left to do , and then I'll flat coat the thing, start my weathering process, and then attach the prop and spinner.  Then I'll be done-- I think!

Stephen very nice the craftsmanship is excellent one of the best I've seen.

I haven't accomplished much on my Hannover, been finishing other projects, hope to get back to it this weekend.

ruddratt wrote:

Stephen, that is extraordinary work! One of the sweetest builds I've ever seen! It really gives one a sense of what went into the construction of the 1:1 versions and how they worked, and was pulled off with exceptional skill! Well done, sir!

I was asked recently how do I "fix the flat sided appearance of the brass frets to look round like tubing."

At this scale the flatness of the brass is easy to fix.

You need accelerator, rubber gloves and a breather mask, baking soda. (They are standard on my workbench.)

1. I etched it mildly with "Blackenit" (Model Rail roaders have used this stuff for years.)  Wash the parts you have just etched in a stream of warm water and pat dry on a paper towel.   Then insert the parts into a clear jar and fill half way with baking soda.  Put the lid on the jar and turn it over and over in your hands.  The baking soda helps neutralize the acidic "Blackenit" residue.  Then wash it in a stream of warm water again and pat dry with a clean paper towel. 

Here you are inhibiting the acid and stopping it from working further.

2. I added accelerator to all of the inside areas / surfaces of the longerons.  Let this dry. This not only quick-dries the thin consistancy cyano but thickens it. 

3. Then one joint at a time add a small drop of cyano using a clipped  sewing needle.  Clip the eye of the needle so that it is a two pronged fork. Used the thin cyano.  This helps you get the joints only at first.

4. The Part of Poland fuselage frets are joined in sections of at least three with a fourth (usually the turtledeck) separate.  You simply fold like oragami.  Do one vertical side at a time.

5.  When a side is tacked in place make sure the longeron edges are at 90 degrees to each other.  Then start adding more of the cyano to these inside edges.  They will dry quickly so there is little chance of you screwing up later.

This last step fills in the open inside areas between the flat edges. It is almost like laying a caulk between porcelein edges.  Just don't try to wipe away any of it.

6. Add the turtledeck last.  When all inside edges are firmly glued with a bead of cyano on the interior angles add accelerator to the outside longeron edges you want to round off and let dry.

7. Now with the same  needle modified to a fork, drag thin cyano along the outside seams of the mating edges of the longerons. Later you can even go back and add a gel cyano if your looking to make it thicker.    I did not think I needed to.

8.  Add cyano to the horizontal and veritcal braces between the longerons.

9. After you have completed all four sides of the fuselage skeletal structure, shoot it with a non buffing metalizer - laquer paint.  Usually the hobby laquer is hot enought to etch slightly into the quick dried glue surface.  Let this act as a primer.  Do this with in an half hour of your completion.

10. Finally shoot with an enamel.  You will have to go back an repaint the bracing wires later but that is an quick and easy task.  Let it dry in a safe place for about two to three days in a dry moisture free area.

After that inspect your work and see if you need to round out any more edges.  (I did not need to.)

MrDrummy wrote:

". . .Ok, everyone- here's a shot of my prop.  It's definitely not the greatest looking thing ever, but here she is anyway: I tried a couple of different methods to get this thing looking right. . . So-- I just went back and handpainted the thing!  I airbrushed the prop with a yellow mixture I had lying around for the lighter color, and handpainted the Model Master leather for the dark brown.  After that had all dried, and sanded it down to get out any clumps or brush stroke marks, and then painted the dark brown again.  I repeated this process two or three times, and then put a burnt umber wash on the whole thing.  Once that had dried I brushed on Future tinted with orange food coloring to replicate the finish.  I think that it turned out ok. . ."

Not bad. Not bad at all.  Next time use images of the real thing and sharpen the backs of the brown lamination curves.   The first one is ok but should stick out a little beyond the edge of the spinner.  Dont kick yourself too hard this is a very decent attempt.  Next time it will be easier.  "A" for effort!

Stephen-

First off, WOW!!!  That truly is unbelievable work.  That one hass all of the detail of those big Hasegawa 1/16 birds.  How did you find the patience to do all of that detail in the rear fuselage?  I updated page 1 for you.  Beautiful work, my hat's off to you!

Thank you for the tip, I will try to remove it with a round bur in a motor tool.  I spent a lot of time holoowing out some drop tanks for my Corsair that way, so this one SHOULD be a walk in the park.  Thanks again!

searat12 wrote:

". . . Looking for some expertise here!!  I have a large number of unbuilt German WW1 models, many of which are equipped with lozenge-pattern camoflage sheets for the wings (and some cases fuselage as well) that are very large, and very awkward to work with. The biggest problem seems to be dealing with the edges of the wings, since the decals don't want to go around that sharp of an edge, dry up, curl up, split, etc, etc. Does anyone have any tried and true method for dealing with this issue? . . . is PARTICULARLY a problem with the AMERICAL/GRYPHON decals, because these are made of a particularly thick film, and nothing I do seeems to get them to soften up sufficiently!! Is there anyone out there with a better method, other than trying to paint over the rips and tears that seem to be inevitable (especially with AMERICAL)??

First I understand, let me start bt saying I used some 6 sheets of Americal / Gryphon lozenge on my Contrail Vacuform Zeppelin Staaken I feel your pain.  For single or two seat aircraft in 1/48 or 1/72 scale I would not use this brand.  But since you have the Americal /Gryphon decals your needing a fix for the edge problems.  So here it is.  "Heat"   You can lay Mirco Sol or Diesol down all day long with little effect. These decals work best when  dipped in HOT water.  Not boiling mind you.  Handle with tweezers and lay it down quickly.  Be cautious.  Heat will expand the decals, distilled water is your best bet.  Then lay down your Sol.

Cut the darts in the edge if you think it will help to work the compound curve. It really depends on the wing profile.

Daywalker wrote:

"OK, here's what I trying to figure out how to fix.  The step to glue the top panel to really sticks out like a sore thumb in my eyes, with the cockpit being so visable.  What do you guys think? "

Think about a ball or oblong  Dremel cutting bit.  It will bevel down the interior thickness of the shelf.  Simply take it at low speed.  Or a SHARP #11 Xacto  blade in a knife handle using only the tip of the  blade to slice away the deep edge of the shelf.  Ideally this should be done before you glue the fuselage halves together so you are still in a good place.

Looking for some expertise here!!  I have a large number of unbuilt German WW1 models, many of which are equipped with lozenge-pattern camoflage sheets for the wings (and some cases fuselage as well) that are very large, and very awkward to work with. The biggest problem seems to be dealing with the edges of the wings, since the decals don't want to go around that sharp of an edge, dry up, curl up, split, etc, etc. Does anyone have any tried and true method for dealing with this issue? I have tried several decal softening solutions, but they don't seem to work very well. I have also tried cutting a number of small slits in the decal itself around the ends of the wingtips to keep the decal from tearing or folding up, but with only limited success.....

...Had a look at some of the other comments, and none sounds particularly helpful, or better than what I am already doing. Again, I ordinarly put the TOP pieces on first (most people seem to put on the bottom first, strangely!), usually in pieces chordwise, measuring and cutting carefully to make sure the edges between two pieces end up on top of a rib (so rib tape decals can be added later). Around the wingtips, I roughly trim the decal to shape, then cut a series of small cuts all the way around the wingtip so that these can be folded around the tip without creating large folds or tears. Along the leading edge, I curl a small bit over, and leave a small bit hanging off the trailing edge. If all this goes according to plan, then I just need to cut the lower decals to size and place them so they overlap the curled over upper camoflage decals in front, and trim them closely aft so as to make a fine trailing edge. The big problem comes in getting the wingtip cuts to fold over smoothly and stay in place long enough to dry, and sometimes this is a problem with the leading edge too. It is PARTICULARLY a problem with the AMERICAL/GRYPHON decals, because these are made of a particularly thick film, and nothing I do seeems to get them to soften up sufficiently!! Is there anyone out there with a better method, other than trying to paint over the rips and tears that seem to be inevitable (especially with AMERICAL)??

To be honest, that's the same spot that I stalled on when I was building my Dr1.  I've not tackled it yet, but I was thinking I'd knock it out with good ol' putty and elbow grease, then coming back and rescribing the line afterwards. 

The nasty join on the rear of the fuselage wasn't too bad though.  I simply fit it as best I could, and left the nasty join for the bottom of the fuselage, where it won't be near as visible in the end!

I guess that the DML kits aren't known for their perfect fit, huh? 

OK, here's what I trying to figure out how to fix.  The step to glue the top panel to really sticks out like a sore thumb in my eyes, with the cockpit being so visable.  What do you guys think?

Thanks Mike and Frank!

Frank, shoot some photos of your issues--maybe one of us can shed some light on the issue!

I was thinking about picking up that kit for my next build, but if it's that bad, I don't know if I will! 

MrDrummy wrote:

Frank- Yeah, I remember seeing those pictures.  You've definitely got a lot more patience than I do!!!!

Whew!  I thought it was because I was crazy!

MrDrummy wrote:

I'm nearing completion of the Albatros, so keep your eyes open for some "FINISHED!!!" pics pretty soon!

I can't wait Justin!  You are doing a bang-up job my friend, truly awe-inspiring work.

I gotta be honest, this Fokker is kicking my .  Every time I go to work on it, some issue pops up with it that kills my enthusiasm for it.  Now, I test fit the fuse halves and the top deck and noticed a HUGE step for the upper panel to fit onto, and it is painfully obvious that it's not supposed to be there in the real thing.  Not quite sure at this point how to fix it.

Justin, the prop looks great from where I'm sitting, my friend!

I am eagerly awaiting the completed build!

Frank- Yeah, I remember seeing those pictures.  You've definitely got a lot more patience than I do!!!!

Ok, everyone- here's a shot of my prop.  It's definitely not the greatest looking thing ever, but here she is anyway:

I tried a couple of different methods to get this thing looking right.  I tried using oil paints-to no avail.  I just couldn't make it look right.  Next I tried Marc's method of taping it off using chart tape, but I couldn't make the tape stick very well, and after about 30 tries I gave up in frustration!!

So-- I just went back and handpainted the thing! 

I airbrushed the prop with a yellow mixture I had lying around for the lighter color, and handpainted the Model Master leather for the dark brown.  After that had all dried, and sanded it down to get out any clumps or brush stroke marks, and then painted the dark brown again.  I repeated this process two or three times, and then put a burnt umber wash on the whole thing.  Once that had dried I brushed on Future tinted with orange food coloring to replicate the finish.  I think that it turned out ok.  

Like I said-- not the prettiest thing out there!

I'm nearing completion of the Albatros, so keep your eyes open for some "FINISHED!!!" pics pretty soon! 

MrDrummy wrote:

Nice to hear that you're making a little progress, Frank.  I've found it takes me a LOT of nerve to strip down something that I've already thought was finished!!  It's hard sometimes.

Thanks Justin.  As for stripping down parts, I had LOTS of experience doing that last year!

Corsair:

Zero:

Spitfire:

But, they all turned out OK:

Corsair:

Zero:

Spitfire:

Nice to hear that you're making a little progress, Frank.  I've found it takes me a LOT of nerve to strip down something that I've already thought was finished!!  It's hard sometimes.

I attached the landing gear struts last night, aided with a little bit of brass wire to strengthen the bond. 

My next step is doing the bungee cord shocks.  Does anyone have any photos of these?  I'd like to see the pattern that I need to wrap on them before I get after that! 

I'm in the final stages, and since I have very little in the way of research material, I'm leaning on some of you that may be able to help a bit!!

Thanks, guys!