Knights of the Sky WWI GB The End

Thanks Stephen !

It maybe a bit over my head since I never build a biplane of this kind. It will be a real challange for me. I think I will use the Glencoe kit as a test field for my Eduard kit. I have to figure out how to make all those wires looking so good on your planes.

Any suggestion on those ???

Greg 

MrDrummy wrote:

HaHA!  I knew you'd come through, Stephen!  Those are some FINE looking models.  Wow!  That yellow and blue one is quite interesting, as is the blue and red striped one.  I think that I'll go ahead and do one of the all black aircraft.  Easy to do, AND quite sinister!  Thanks for that.

You can see by the captions that these all black Fok. Dr.I types were the mounts of Ltn. Josef Jacobs.  His diary was published in several installments of Cross & Cockade Intl. & Over the Front by the same plugger.  The captions that go with the images will give you the correct application of serial numbers. 

gzt wrote:

Guys, I just got back home and guess what: a fedex package is waiting. Inside is a Glencoe 1/48 Austrian Albatros D.III. . .Anyone ever build Glencoe 1/48 Albratros D.III ?  I am just curious if I just wasted $20 or it is worth anything. Greg

Greetings Greg;

The Glencoe kit is very simple.  I built several but the one I was happy with is this one.  Here it is in a diorama called "Home from the Front." The mechanic figure offering up a cup-o-java is a CMK figure. The figure posing as Jasta 5 pilot Ltn Strobel is unfortunately Out of production from Van's Scale Models. The Albatros D.III was built before the Eduard kit was available from a heavily modified Glencoe Alb. D.III fuselage and resin poured copies of the Eduard Alb.D.V kit wings.. It took three attempts to get it right. .

Guys,

I just got back home and guess what: a fedex package is waiting. Inside is a Glencoe 1/48 Austrian Albatros D.III.

Tjhis kit is pretty simple, has some options (engine and nose (53 and 153 options) but the overall parts especially the wings look a bit rought - just like some parts are missing. THe top portion has a correct texture but buttom side do not have any - just like the buttom portion of the wing is not there. I checked the parts and all are there according to the instruction. It is juts made this way.

I compared the parts with Eduard Albatros D.III (German) and the fuselage is a bit different - cockpit opening has a different shape. Fuselage does not have any panel lines. 

Anyone ever build Glencoe 1/48 Albratros D.III ?  I am just curious if I just wasted $20 or it is worth anything. 

Greg 

HaHA!  I knew you'd come through, Stephen!  Those are some FINE looking models.  Wow!  That yellow and blue one is quite interesting, as is the blue and white striped one. 

I think that I'll go ahead and do one of the all black aircraft.  Easy to do, AND quite sinister!  Thanks for that.

MrDrummy wrote:

". . .I'm building a Fokker Dr I as a warmup for the group build, and I'm trying to stay away from the all-red Richthofen aircraft, AND the typical funky green stripey lookin' fabric.  Do I have any other options? Thanks!!

Greetings I know of some plugger doing a series on the ones he built ( 33 of the DML / Dragon kits) Don't miss the fact that there are two pages of images. See:

http://www.aeroscale.co.uk/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=1379

Here's a question for you guys out there who are a lot more in the know than I am.

I'm building a Fokker Dr I as a warmup for the group build, and I'm trying to stay away from the all-red Richthofen aircraft, AND the typical funky green stripey lookin' fabric.  Do I have any other options?

Thanks!!

MrDrummy wrote:

Hey Stephen-- Do you think that WWII British interior green would work well for the interior workings of my Fokker DrI?  It's about as close as I can get at the moment.  Looks pretty similar to my eye..

For painting metal fixtures try mixing about two parts green with one part light gull grey.  That will put you in the ball park.

Hey Stephen--

Do you think that WWII British interior green would work well for the interior workings of my Fokker DrI?  It's about as close as I can get at the moment.  Looks pretty similar to my eye..

Sanman-

to our GB!  Glad to have you here, you're are among some of the best modelers on this site and a bunch of us WWI newbies as well!  Feel free to grab the GB badge on page one, and get ready to have some fun!

Well gang, that makes 25 of us now!

Like to get in on this one. My build is a Revell 1:28 SPAD XIII.

This also is my 1st WWI A/C.

Sanman

Greetings gentle folk:

It is very kind of you to include me.  I thank you sincerely.  Rigging the Rumpler is going along well I might have been finished by now but family obligations do take precidence.   I now also have a 1/32 Pfalz D.III to prepare a review on.  Busy busy busy! 

ruddratt wrote:

Nice! That is some high praise indeed! Superb model, Stephen!

Steven!  I am proud to be amongst some of the best modelers in the world here.  Wonderful people with not only tremendous skills, but personalities that reflect the best attributes one could hope for from their closest friends.  Thank you everyone!

It appears as if Roden has taken a fondeness for my white Sop. 1 1/2  Strutter.

http://www.rodenplant.com/Gallery/402/402.htm

Here is a bit of fun on a modern replica.  Everything is very close except these metal cocking handles were only seen on Fokker built - Fokker D.VII (there were 3 licensed builders).  Never on any Dr.I types. 

 Spandau machine guns were coated in a baked on black enamel.  The chutes were basic unpainted aluminum in most cases.  Here are several British soldiers inspecting the twin Spandaus of Fokker Dr.I 425/17 on about 22 April 1918.

Nothing special to look at, but here they are.  Stephen and Jeaton--thanks for the tips!! One of them has a little bit of an issue with the shape of the tip...

Now to figure out the color of the ammo chutes (grayish?) and the ammo itself.  Don't want to paint it brass, because that'd be a little too bright, I think.  A toned down brass maybe?  Or is that part of the chute covered?

I noticed on some of the photos of one of the rebuilds, that the cocking handles were wooden.  Was that so on the service aircraft? 

Yeah, buddy!!  It really helped out a lot, I think.  I was a bit worried that they would break, as per Stephen's warning, but luckily they held together, and it was fine.

I just got the MG's assembled and painted, so now I'll get after the detailing, and then I'm going to post them. 

I'm pretty stoked about them--they're my firsts and they may not be perfect, but I'm a bit proud! 

MrDrummy wrote:

Well, I don't know if it was your idea, Jeaton, but, the little jacket sure bent a lot easier after I put it in the water quickly after removing it from the fire!  It also knocked a bunch of the soot off the metal.  I got a two-fer. I'm on my way to a couple of good looking machine guns.

Very cool!

jeaton01 wrote:

Stephen, won't brass or copper go even softer if you quench it in water quickly, just the opposite of ferrous metals or aluminum?

jeaton01, In many cases you could be correct. But in dealing things like Spandau jackets (highly fretted) you may only make it more suseptable to breaking. 

This also brings up the the topic of "Blacken it."  This a substance used to patina metals for better paint adhesion.  Not a good replacement for annealing.

Well, I don't know if it was your idea, Jeaton, but, the little jacket sure bent a lot easier after I put it in the water quickly after removing it from the fire!  It also knocked a bunch of the soot off the metal.  I got a two-fer.

I'm on my way to a couple of good looking machine guns.

jeaton01 wrote:

Stephen, won't brass or copper go even softer if you quench it in water quickly, just the opposite of ferrous metals or aluminum?

If that were the case, it'd be nice-- I'm still having a heck of a time getting the jackets to bend around the little plastic roller.  This is some tough stuff!!