MrDrummy wrote: |
Ok. Question time! How do you make those photo-etched gun cooling dealies bend so nicely? I can get them to turn into little angled deals, but not circular tubes. I've had to flatten them back out a couple of times now. Hopefully this next time, I can do it right! Tips? Hints? |
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MrDrummy Forgive me but, Dude you got to quit hitting your head like that. . .ouch!
The answer is simple. Heat. Most companies try to avoid litigation by not mentioning it. (If you set your house on fire they don't want you suing them.) BUT you must apply heat to pre 2002 designed photoetch parts to get it to bend smoothly. I am doing a "how to" on that other site concerning PE so we're right on time.
PE that consists of brass over 0.15 thou thick usually requires annealing, depending on the part it represents. Machine gun jackets are the main concern. Gripping the part in a metal clamp pass it over an open candle or lighter flame until it glows red and remove. Let the part cool down thoroughly and wipe gently to remove any soot (usually from the burned nickel coating.) DML used to include a jacket roller in their kits. I would break off the thin end of the roller and wrap the gunjacket by curling one end over it. Then on a ceramic tile or sheet of glass from a common picture frame use your index finger and roll the jacket onto the plastic roller / rod. Viola! or Whallah if you prefer. Don't forget to remove the roller by pushing it out of one of the open ends.
Newer photoetch designed after 2002 maybe made of metal that is commonly called silver nickel (which is neither silver or nickel.) Prime examples are in the newer Eduard kits Fokker D.VII kit PE. These never need annealing with heat. Also the Tom's Modelworks PE is too thin to ever need annealing.