Knights of the Sky WWI GB The End

ruddratt wrote:

"Stephen , that's why I was so pleasantly suprised with the F.1 Camel....tons of PE and markings for 8 different birds. I still think it's one of their best releases to date."

Yes I agree the old Profipacks and now the Combo, Limited Edition, Royal even the weekend kit issues have Eduard trying to broaden their outreach to get a bigger slice of the WW (in this case World Wide ) pie.

Here is one of a Combo I built last year and the review.

http://www.aeroscale.co.uk/modules.php?op=modload&name=Reviews&file=index&req=showcontent&id=2095

StephenLawson wrote:

Eduard aims its kits at mainstream modelers.  The average Joe or Josephine.   2-3 colour schemes. Roden aims its kits at detail loving modelers looking for variety.  5-6 colour schemes.

Stephen , that's why I was so pleasantly suprised with the F.1 Camel....tons of PE and markings for 8 different birds. I still think it's one of their best releases to date.

ollie wrote:

"How do you find the Roden kit?"

Why Ollie wih my hands unless I turn the light on!  Ok sorry couldn't resist.  The main difference between the Edaurd and Roden kits is buidability. Both are about equal. 

The Eduard kit goes together well but has no engine. There are only facades to mount the exhaust pipes to.

The Roden kit has tight fitting parts and a complete engine.  

Eduard aims its kits at mainstream modelers.  The average Joe or Josephine.   2-3 colour schemes.

Roden aims its kits at detail loving modelers looking for variety.  5-6 colour schemes.

StephenLawson wrote:

Greetings Ollie;  You will find that both Eduard and Roden have excellent 1/48 kits of the Brisfit.  I have one (Roden) in progress myself.

How do you find the Roden kit?

Greetings Ollie;

 You will find that both Eduard and Roden have excellent 1/48 kits of the Brisfit.  I have one (Roden) in progress myself.

Im up for this group build. I whant to do a Bristol Fighter as one is based just down the road frrom me (airworthy). I also watched all 3 airworthy origional Bristol Fighters flying together. Can someone recommend a good 1:48th scale kit of the Bristol Fighter please.

Heres a photo just to savour the moment:

If people are interested i am able to complete a photo walk around of the following aircraft which i would hapily burn the images to cd and mail it to you at a small cost: (note these aircraft are all origional unless otherwise noted, i even have cockpit photos of a few of them, again these are labelled)

Dr1 (replica) -

Sopwith Pup - cocpit shot included

Sopwith Triplane (late production) - cockpit shot included

Bristol M1C (replica) -

Avro 504k - cockpit shot included

Bristol F2b Fighter - cockpit shot included

SE5A -

Cauldron G3 -

Hanroit Hd1 -

Sopwith 1.5 Strutter -

Sopwith Tabloid (replica) -

Vickers Fb5 (replica i believe) -

Vickers Vimy (replica) -

If you are at all interested in these contact me by private message or by email.

ruddratt wrote:

Stephen, I have another question about the DH.2 kit. Eduard provides options for three different instrument panel/deck configurations. As I plan on building DH.2, No. 5998, Capt. J. O. Andrews mount (1916), do you know which configuration I should use? I could scan the instructions and post that section here if that would help. Thanks! Here's a scan of the instructions. I boxed in the step in question.

Greetings ruddratt;

Eduard had a minor screw up here.  Other wise it would be very clear.  I'll explain.  In your instructions the headers are 2 A, B & C.  These stand for the colour profile schemes provided in the kit.  The problem was someone forgot to add "D" to the instrument cluster that has "C".  So "C" should read "C & D."   Your choice is "C" so its the choice on the far right.  Both are 5xxx series machines and will have the same instrument cluster.

http://www.eduard.cz/products/pdf/n80/8094_15.pdf

Got my Dragon Fokker Dr I in the mail today-- GOSH!  That thing is small!  I was a little worried that I had accidentally gotten a 1/72 kit.  The Albatross is almost twice the size.  I had no idea it was such a small aircraft!

Stephen, I have another question about the DH.2 kit. Eduard provides options for three different instrument panel/deck configurations. As I plan on building DH.2, No. 5998, Capt. J. O. Andrews mount (1916), do you know which configuration I should use? I could scan the instructions and post that section here if that would help. Thanks!

(edit)

Here's a scan of the instructions. I boxed in the step in question. Thanks again!

MrDrummy wrote:

Hey Stephen-- Well, after reading your list, it does look like I've got a few things to get before I get going on this aircraft!  I think that a lot of the things will be taken care of when I get the Eduard photoetch set, such as the guns, the radiator, and instrument switches.  I've got the monofilament already in the drawer. Here are a couple of questions: 1.  Can you actually see the wiring once the engine is mounted? 2.   I'm guessing that the brass rod through the wings and fuselage are for added strength.  This seems like a pretty easy task.  What guage of brass rod would you recommend? I don't want to get for free what you sell on CD, but at the point the model money is drying up!!

Greetings Mr Drummy;

1. Only seen on the pilot's left.  (unless you use white painted wiring)

2. Make it easy on your self keep it the same diameter as the front locator hole in the fuselage for the lower wing.  (I don't have the gauge with me right now but I'll check later.)

3. No worries.  If I offer it (like I did in the list above) you can ask about it.

Modelers come here to get help.  But I used to get requests like ". . .give me everything you have on . . .fill in the blank. "  I have been writing about WWI aviation kits and its real history for years.  My website does that, fills in the blanks.  By the way the list I posted is just the stuff I did.  If your budget doesn't permit certain things. . . hey you got to eat right? 

The downloads are quick and have a few images.

The CD's have everything I can burn into the Disk about the subject and that includes 40 -60 images. 

So far the site pays for itself and a couple of kit purchases for me.  Yahoo!

Hey Stephen--

Well, after reading your list, it does look like I've got a few things to get before I get going on this aircraft!  I think that a lot of the things will be taken care of when I get the Eduard photoetch set, such as the guns, the radiator, and instrument switches.  I've got the monofilament already in the drawer.

Here are a couple of questions:

1.  Can you actually see the wiring once the engine is mounted?

2.   I'm guessing that the brass rod through the wings and fuselage are for added strength.  This seems like a pretty easy task.  What guage of brass rod would you recommend?

I don't want to get for free what you sell on CD, but at the point the model money is drying up!!

MrDrummy wrote:

"...I'd love to hear more about your a/c.  I know that I'm doing one of the early versions of the DIII, though.  I think that I'm going to build Richtofen's D.III and Fokker D.I.  I AM going to get that Eduard PE set for it, though, as soon as the cash comes rolling in.  I've got to calm the model accessories buying a little bit...whew.  Sometimes one just gets carried away... Check this out--stunning work. http://hsfeatures.com/albatrosdiiitb_1.htm

Greetings  MrDrummy:

As ruddratt has discovered I have kit reviews on my website BUT The older out of production kits are usually no longer offered as downloads.  While they are all still available on CD's  My stuff is aimed at helping the average modeler who has little or no knowledge about WWI aviation.

That said Here is a list of what I did to "improve" the basic Eduard Albatros kit #8017. 

1. a Copper State Models resin pilot,
2. an extra radiator facade and
3. some instrument switches from Eduard's aftermarket set,
4. a couple of cut and shaped brass rods plumbing to the radiator,
5. some motor wiring,
6. scratchbuilt fuel cell (Upper half only), 
7. monofilament rigging,
8. the four control horns for the elevator
9. landing gear legs and axle parts are cut and shaped brass rod.
10. Grandt line hex head nuts  for the strut tie - in's on the top wing,
11. Cabane struts are cut and shaped brass rod, 4 pieces per side,
12. photoetch Spandau machine gun jackets, end caps, gun sights  and etc.

THE MOST IMPORTANT MODIFICATIONS TO THIS KIT ARE,

". . .Step 3.) Remove the forward plastic locator pin in the lower wings (B2&3) and have a brass pin/ rod inserted into predrilled holes through both sides of the fuselage with corresponding holes in the lower wings. Leave the rear plastic pins intact. This provides a rigid structure to hang the wings from.

While in the area there is a vertically scribed line between the forward engine compartment vent and the rear edge of the cowling ring. It needs to be filled and sanded smooth. Lay common masking tape over the details you want to save and then sand and fill with gap filling "Super Glue" cynoacrylate. . ."

Trapping the axle bar ends in the lower end of the landing gear per the original.  Wrap upholstery thread around the langing gear legs above the axle.  See photo images or your references.

I have a list I can recommend.

wing_nut wrote:

OK... Stephen has set the bar...  and I can almost see it from way down here Nice job.

Lucky you...I can`t even see the bar, it?s so F***ing far away....but we are ale going to (hopefully) learn from this exirence so I`ll try my best:D:D

Yeah- my kit came without any PE parts-- all plastic. 

I'd love to hear more about your a/c.  I know that I'm doing one of the early versions of the DIII, though.  I think that I'm going to build Richtofen's D.III and Fokker D.I. 

I AM going to get that Eduard PE set for it, though, as soon as the cash comes rolling in. 
I've got to calm the model accessories buying a little bit...whew.  Sometimes one just gets carried away...

Check this out--stunning work.

http://hsfeatures.com/albatrosdiiitb_1.htm 

gzt wrote:

". . .At this moment I am not sure what aftermarket parts I can get - its Eduard kit anyway - so some PE parts are included, masks etc. Greg"

MrDrummy wrote:

Hey GZT-- Looks like you and I are building the same kit/plane.     Are you building straight OOB?  Going to detail it up?

Hi Drummy !

I got an Eduard kit of D.III - and I plan to convert it to OEF version 253. This one used Austro Daimpler engines - 225 HP. I just got a book on OEF Albatros - plans for 1/72 and 1/48 scale. I know that I have plenty of reading before I will start building this bird and I will be more than happy if I can share it with you - if you are interested in OEF version, if not I will share my findings anyway

At this moment I am not sure what aftermarket parts I can get - its Eduard kit anyway - so some PE parts are included, masks etc.

Greg 

Hey GZT--

Looks like you and I are building the same kit/plane.  

Are you building straight OOB?  Going to detail it up? 

Stephen,

THanks for the tip. I just received "Albatros D.III(OEF)" by P.M. Grosz. Its a great source of information on those planes. Thanks again !! Now its time to digg through it

Greg 

StephenLawson wrote:

Just cruising through the previous pages I picked up on darson's interest in the Eduard Weekend kit #8426 Nieuport 16.  I happen to know of some plugger that did a review on the kit.

Hey, I know that guy!!!

This build will deal with the Planet Models kit. As it is mostly resin these parts will be referred to as RP. Additional resin parts are referred to as PX. Though the instructions clearly label them as photoetch the PX items are in fact resin. Originally the parts marked PX were supposed to be white metal.

This details the assembly of the 260hp Mercedes D.IVa inline six motor. On the basic motor ( RP 34 ) water jackets covering the cylinders should be painted a "blued gun metal" color. The crank housing would be a bare aluminum color. Note the rectangular plate on the back of the motor is supposed fit over the etch rectangle on the face of the fuselage former (RP 22.) NOTE!!! This is the key that helps you set the engine at the correct attitude. It will be canted to the pilot's right. Don't be alarmed. It was like that on the original airframes, I kid you not. The overhead cam & rockers on the cylinder tops will be steel and aluminum tinged with a black wash or painted black. The air induction pipes ( RP 32 & 27 ) appear to be copper based items. The twin magnetos and tower assembly will need to be scratchbuilt and will be aluminum with a black wash and fitted behind the rear cylinder. Later you will find that the engine cowlings don't really permit a view to the crankcase. Use fine wire to add small sections to each side of the cylinders and paint to represent spark plug wires.

darson wrote:

". . .Great to have you back Mike & thanks a bunch for the info on those kits.  I think I will go for the Ni-16 MAX kit, so you can that down as my build.  Cheers"

 Just cruising through the previous pages I picked up on darson's interest in the Eduard Weekend kit #8426 Nieuport 16.  I happen to know of some plugger that did a review on the kit.  Some people seem to like it. I hope it helps.  Model On!

http://www.aeroscale.co.uk/modules.php?op=modload&name=Reviews&file=index&req=showcontent&id=2590

They can usually be found at Buffy's Best.com or alternately the Pavlka resin Mercedes (180 -200hp) is very nice.  Hi-Tech has just re-released their version of 180hp.   Most of the early Albatros D.III type had the 170hp Mercedes.  The late models (OAW) types seemd to all have the 180hp Mercedes.  You will find unless you want to open up the cowling panels, you won't see much except the cylinder heads.

MrDrummy wrote:

Frank, just add both to my list, and I'll do one of them! HA!  Sorry, buddy.

NP buddy, I put them both on for ya.

Also-- I saw over on Hyperscale that Vector out of Moscow is now producing a 1/48 Mercedes DIII/DIIIa resin engine, and boy does it look nice!!

It sure would look nice in my Albatross.... 

StephenLawson wrote:

For instance on the Alb. D.III there are 24 paths for rigging...

Well, looks like I goofed!!  Oh well.  I think I'll make it, though.  Maybe I'll do the Albatross now, and wait til October to do the DR I.  Frank, just add both to my list, and I'll do one of them! HA!  Sorry, buddy.

Wyoroy--

Thanks!  Glad you like the sound!