ARMOR - Panther (PzKpfw V) Group Build (any scale)

Forgot a couple of things:

Kenneth see:
http://www3.ocn.ne.jp/%7Em.a.mori/c_conversionpart.html
A resin 'G' cupola for under USD$14 that looks real good too. Now if we can wait another week, will we find one that is another $6 cheaper?

Derek:
Found out on Saturday that Archer don't make any replacement decals for the Panther "D' (yet) Going to have to look elsewhere or borrow from another kit if any are suitable. Might be a set back to me now. Thanks anyway.

QUOTE: Originally posted by claymore68 Geuss I'll have to fix that! RE Verlinden radiators: My info appers to show the intake plenums divided in 2 sections. I will be using mine as-is. RE Tracks: I believe the early A used the same track as the D but it was changed for the late A and later models. I have seen at least 1 pic that mixedtracks on one vehicle and believe that any model could have ended up with either style installed when it was recovered and repaired after a battle.

Only mentioned it cause I wanted everyone to be able to see your work.

Re: Radiators have you seen this:
http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/misc/mgp09.htm
This is what I've based my home built version for my D on (the USD $20+ price tag is a bit much for me seeing as the compartment is going to be closed anyway)

I have seen a few pics of both tracks on the A, and I was just being a bit cheeky here. I have actually seen a museum pic of an early G with the old tracks too, but have a feeling they may have been scrounged to complete an otherwise neglected exhibit.

Are you going to zim, or make one of the very first 'A's' that didn't have it. Just interested to see if you were going to add to the zim saga above.

Timbo:
I agree with petbat on the paint, test first!
You could use regular spray cans also. Use silly putty to mask and hold the can perpendicular to the surface, this should leave a "soft" edge insted of the "hard" edge of a brush.

I'll leave the zim question for those that have done it!

Timbo
The zim needs to be very thin. Use just enough putty to cover the vehicle so that when you rake the putty, the valley grooves will just cover the base plastic.

Yes. Paint the vehicle the Dark Yellow and paint the camo colours over that. Most craft paints are not designed for spraying on plastic. They are for primered wood, etc. These paints would probably be effected by the weathering process, so I wouldn't use them myself - at least not without testing it on an old kit or something first.

QUOTE: Originally posted by petbat Derek Just a quickie. On the web site I get the dreaded red X on some pics on your page two, and the buttons at the bottom of the pages won't link you back and forth to your other pages like they do on Wild William's page. Stoopid question 1. The Verlinden radiator and cooling fans - are there other 'fins/louvers' to put in the radiator compartments? The resin ones only seem to have one central fin whereas all pics I have, or have seen, of the Panther's radiators clearly show 3 evenly spaced in each compartment. Stoopid Question 2. Dragon/DML's Panther Ausf A's, both early and late, have the later angled cleat type tracks in them. Did the 'A' have the 'D' pattern tracks (rectangular 'cut out' track-face type) too? (if not, do you want to sell yer 'D' type cheap? )

Geuss I'll have to fix that!

RE Verlinden radiators: My info appers to show the intake plenums divided in 2 sections. I will be using mine as-is.

RE Tracks: I believe the early A used the same track as the D but it was changed for the late A and later models. I have seen at least 1 pic that mixedtracks on one vehicle and believe that any model could have ended up with either style installed when it was recovered and repaired after a battle.

Hello everyone,

I thought I have read this somewhere, rad throught the entire forums and didnt see or missed it one. Could someone tell me about how thick to make the zimmeret on a panther G early, I am going to use a filler putty to make it, I believe this will work, It is the filler I have for my r/c planes its sandable after it dries, just will be tedious but should be fun.
Also on paint it is difficult to find tamiya paint in the local area, and was wondering if someone has ever used craft paints to paint with like apple barrel etc. if so what colors did they use, I am wanting the camo scheme.
Also I have an airbrush that is for spraying wide areas will be good for base coat on panther but after that not much good. Since if im not mistaken the panthers came just base coat dark yellow from the factory then the crews painted on the camo for the initial runs, is that correct and if so I should be ok with brushing on the camo after base coat to be more realistic? Is this correct ?
Sorry for the long windedness, these are my main concerns at the moment.
Thanks for all the help
Timbo

Derek

Just a quickie. On the web site I get the dreaded red X on some pics on your page two, and the buttons at the bottom of the pages won't link you back and forth to your other pages like they do on Wild William's page.

Stoopid question 1. The Verlinden radiator and cooling fans - are there other 'fins/louvers' to put in the radiator compartments? The resin ones only seem to have one central fin whereas all pics I have, or have seen, of the Panther's radiators clearly show 3 evenly spaced in each compartment.

Stoopid Question 2. Dragon/DML's Panther Ausf A's, both early and late, have the later angled cleat type tracks in them. Did the 'A' have the 'D' pattern tracks (rectangular 'cut out' track-face type) too? (if not, do you want to sell yer 'D' type cheap? )

Coming along nicely Derek. Thanks for the tip. I'll look close and see if anything needs some grindng on.

Looking good there Derek.

Chris:My A had the same problem. I used a small file to clean out some flash and exend the notches by the fenders just a hair. Fit is excelent now.

Kenneth: Idlers and drives have arrived, thanks.

All: Want to find out how to fit dragon wheels on the Tamiya A? Check out my build page!

here's a teaser:

I had a problem with the upper and lower hull too. No gap on the front, but the there are gaps on the left and right undersides. They cant be seen unless you flip my tank so its not too noticable. I'll probably putty it though. It might be the first tamiya tank that had a slight fit problem for me, or it could be that i misglued the two front things that the upperhull slides onto.

Yea I did dry fit it so it was not a suprise. The back plate went on fine with no gaps at all. Looks like each kit with this has it's own little problems.

Sorry Chris, mine fits like a glove. Might be the only thing to go right so far. LOL Possibly, the rear plate might not have been postioned correctly, I checked it out a few times to be sure. Sadly, we learn lessons the hard way if we gon't dryfit (not to suggest you didn't).

lizardqing2, I too am using a Tamiya Panther and I have not glued much together yet, but I can foresee a problem with the fit of the hull. My fit problems are with the rear plate. . I think I will be using quite a bit of putty and sandpaper to get this puppy together.

Got the base color down yesterday. Just wondering if anyone with this kit has fitted the top and bottom hull together yet and also has that big gap in that front angle? I've got the top half as snug as it'll go and cant get it to seal up. See thi pic below to see what I am talking about. Going to start on the road wheels today YEA!!!!! Now that I have gotten over my excitement here is the pic.
Got a few more at http://www.geocities.com/lizardqing/panther5.html.


Let me know if there is something that needs attention.

Well I figured out how to mount Dragon wheels to the Tamiya kit and then started on the turret. I don't know why templates can't be drawn the size needed, It sure is a pain to cut the pieces out and then trim them. Updates on the site soon.

Chris - i seem to have trouble getting enough light where i am shooting w/o the flash.
i have tried w/ some pseudo spot lights and 'natural lighting',
but the pics w/ the flash were always better.
of course, i was doing pictures of airplanes at the time . . . [:0]
so perhaps i should try again. i have a lot of zim pics to do, so it would be the perfect time.
and w/ all the snow on the ground and the sun out today, there is plenty of light reflected in the apt.

Nick - i have no info for you, but wanted to thank you for the link. maybe Derek will add it to his page o' links.

and speaking of Derek, - thanks for putting up my new stuff on the group page!
now everyone can go view my frantic attempts to keep pace w/ Chris!!


ed.

hi guys
good to see that people seem to be making progress (unlike me)...
i've got the tamiya early g and am getting conflicting information as to the unit/origins of tank red #135...

tamiya's instructions list the tank as being from the 9th panzer division; after a bit of research i found that they were refitting in avignon, and were only sent into action later on after the d-day landings, most tanks probably lost in the falaise pocket.

then i this link with lots of colour plates
www.panzerv-panther.fsnet.co.uk/markings.html
very cool but i think there are some mistakes (they label some a's as g's etc...), notably there is a pic of my tamiya tank, this time described as being 12th ss hitlerjugend in bretteville june '44!![:0][:0][:0]

can anyone tell me which is "my" tank?? i know it doesn't actually change what the thing looks like but it makes a difference to me as i always like to know the history behind what i build.

many thanks as always for putting up with my interminable questioning!!

regards,
nick

Ed- If you are using digital have you tried not useing the flash? I never have it on when I take pics and they always come out better. My uncle who is a prof. photographer told me about that, someting with digital.

Chris - i seem to get one good picture for every 5 i take. i just shoot five or six of each pose now, varying depth and zoom. i do ok w/ the telephoto, but sometimes that PE Zim is like a mirror for the flash!
i have been shooting them on the stool in front of my bench, on a brown
shopping bag to gut down the glare and provide some contrast.
good thing it's a digital camera, as i have shot over 150 pics to get the 40
or so ready to post w/ Derek. (some still in the hopper on my end)
but that telephoto drains the batteries FAST !!

i guess i will have to putty between the gaps of the zim, as i know it will just look worse when i paint it!
have to decide of i will open that new tube of Tamiya Putty.
had to buy some after i heard such good things about it.

Gotter - i guess i should have known that, but i didn't!
now if i only knew where the towing pintle was . . .

i figure that Eduard made the pieces to fit Tamiya's panels,
as opposed to measuring a tank or going from drawings.
no point in being 'right' if they don't fit.

what did you use for adhesive, Gotter?
we all found the CA to be awfully fast, but you seemed to have no trouble.
i put my long right hull side piece on in four steps to make sure it stayed straight. started at the front and only put CA on the first inch of hull,
then worked my way back a few inches at a time.
kind of a pain in the butt, but it went better than the left side!

ed.

Wildwilliam
The Kugelblende is the ball mount for the bow machine gun.
I put the hull together today and I must humbly like to apologise to Eduard, the hull zim went on a treat. Verry little tweaking or filling was needed. I,m still not happy about the wierd gap in the zim around the towing pintle. It just don,t look right and I cant find any examples that look like this.Can anyone put me straight before I fill it in
The zim for the "kugelblende" was tricky (as expected), but with a bit of pushing& pulling and glue and filler it came together looking good.
I,ve decided not to use my aber set as it was earmarked for another project ( Kampgruppe Peiper Ardennes diorama). So I,m going to usa a Tamiya engine deck screen set and some do some scratch building.
Bye for now, Gotter.

I just figured I would find any problems with my kit so I could give every one plenty of time to come up with something tho fix thiers . Actually I've had a couple of rain days off work this week so lots of build time.

Ed- I feel your pain about getting good shots. It took about 10 to get those 3. I figured out alot so far with the lighting and such. My photo dooth is actually a chair sitting on the dining room table right under the chandalier with a desk lamp sitting on something at the model level. Then I put down printer paper for a back ground and of coarse take lots of pics and make lots of trips to the computer to check them out.

I got the base coat on awhile ago. I know what tigerman is saying about the pe zim but I'll just deal with it on this build. Got a few places that showed some nasty gaps with the paint on it that I have to try and fix. Spare tracks are going to cover a few of them so don't have to worry about them. I'll try to get some more pics up with the paint job tonite.

Hi gang. Actually Ed, my beef was two-fold. I started to hate the texture of the zim, lacks depth and is too uniform. The big problem was a piece I glued on was crooked, because the glue set so fast. It was ruined. That made my mind up to try it myself. [:0] I'm hoping by Monday to get started. I'm going to complete as much of the turret as I can before I start.
Chris, seems that your way ahead of the group. Glad yours is turning out okay. Til later.

hello everyone,

Finely getting to start on mine this weekend also, Ill throw a web page together with some pics, for some cri, er critiq. err ahh ever how you spell it, tell me how to do things better.

Also going to try doing the pe with putty, that looks like it would be fun.

Modeling Fiend

Chris,
looking GREAT!

i really feel like i am lagging behind!
good thing the rest of the gang is moving at a more moderate pace.

i have been getting some stuff done today, and trying to take lots of pictures.
i still am floundering about trying to get decent closeups.
i have to take 5 or 6 pics to get one tight, in focus shot.
your pictures look like what i am trying to get, but usually don't.

i got my road wheels painted, camo'd, rubber put on w/ Sharpie & washed.
that killed some time!
now i have gone back to Zim & working on hull.

i should get enough done today & tomorrow to post a new page on the group build page.

ed.

yea I got some of the ideas from you Ed. No real mods were needed to fix it, and the only problem I had arise out of the whole ordeal is that some glur ran somewhere it shuld not have and the barrel won't elevate now. No big deal though it's stuck about where I'd like it to be any way. Here's the pics of mine as it right now awaiting a nice yellow paint job it's getting this eveing when I get back from some errands.







Hope it's looking fine. Should be some color to it next pic post!

Chris,
glad to hear it!
but that sounds suspiciously like what i was suggesting in one of my many posts.
of course, getting any nuggets of useful info from those wild guesses is like finding the needle in the haystack!
so C56 fit ok w/ the rails taken out and you did not have to replace them w/ anything?
good to know no drastic mods are needed.

i sent Derek some more build stuff, so it should be up soon, or in a day or so.
don't know how he is getting any work done on his Panther while building the group site for the rest of it, but it is greatly appreciated.


i am getting a good amount of work done w/ the weather like it is here (SNOW!),
and hope to get a bunch more done today & tomorrow and maybe another page or so sent in.
ed.

Ok I got the problem solved . . It was sort of two fold as I came to find out. First problem was that the mantlet cover would not slide over the piece below as needed. I removed the ridges from piece C 56 ( for those with the kit ) on the inside back. I also noticed the the screw that is on the loading breech had slid back causing the breech to push back also. I removed the breech and tightented the screw , instructions say not to overtighten but I had it snug origanaly, repositioned and tightened it a little tighter than I had before. Put all pieces back on put glu on the front of the loading breech and put the mantlet cover in place. Everything fits great now. Wish I had gotten a few pics of the process but I got into it and was just glad it finally fit. Should get it painted today and have some pics up

Gotter- The only fit problems I noticed were a couple of pieces were a bit to long. I just wrapped them around the side though and worked it into that side. Still trying to figure out how to fill the very small spaces I have on the gun ball on the front. Other than those 2 things I thought it went on pretty good. Be sure on the side of the mantlet to get the small d shaped pieces of pe that go on the side of part D 10 all the way flush with the turret side. This may be what is causeing a little of my fit problem in that area.

Gotter,
not sure which pieces are disappointing you, because i don't know which the kugelblende is!
but i have about 80% of the PE Zim down and have had few fit problems.
most of my trouble comes from the CA grabbing the piece before i have it aligned,
or putting the pieces on in an order that creates gaps.
once i started to go from one piece to the next, it has been working fine.

i just looked at the zim for the back piece of the turret and mine
does match up pretty well. i guess it is the missling upper right corner
that has gotten your goat.
i assume they did that on purpose to make it look like some got knocked off?

Chris is zimmed up, so maybe he will chime in!

and Eric (Tigerman) was doing this kit and switched to putty zim,
but i thought his quarrel was texture & not fit.
but i could be wrong.

ed.