The Official F4U Corsair Group Build 4/01/08 - rolling end date

Okay, I just found this....... "The first F4U-4 was delivered to the US Navy on 31 October 1944. The F4U-4 was powered by C-series Double Wasp engine. The installed model was the R-2800-18W, later replaced by the R-2800-42W. It had a war emergency power of 2760hp. A four-bladed propeller replaced the three-bladed one of the F4U-1. A chin scoop was added to the underside of the engine cowling. ".......... at http://www.f4ucorsair.com/tdata/history.htm.

Is there a way to figure out if a plane had the -18W or the -42W? And what is the C-series?

Is there a "visible to the naked eye, looking at the engine from the front" difference?

Hartmann352 wrote:

Okay, I just found this....... "The first F4U-4 was delivered to the US Navy on 31 October 1944. The F4U-4 was powered by C-series Double Wasp engine. The installed model was the R-2800-18W, later replaced by the R-2800-42W. It had a war emergency power of 2760hp. A four-bladed propeller replaced the three-bladed one of the F4U-1. A chin scoop was added to the underside of the engine cowling. ".......... at http://www.f4ucorsair.com/tdata/history.htm. Is there a way to figure out if a plane had the -18W or the -42W? And what is the C-series? Is there a "visible to the naked eye, looking at the engine from the front" difference?

Well Hart, there are differences between them. It really depends on how accurate you want to be with it. One source I found said that just the first XF4U-4 prototypes had the -18W and the production models had the -42W. Others say that the -18W was later replaced with the -42W, and another said -18W or -42W. Couldn't find specific model pics other than the -39 that gzt posted on page #3 of this thread. Don't know what the C-series is.

The engines I got from Engines&Things via Roll Models, are the CB-16/CB-17 which is a civil version of the -103. In loooking at my DC-6 AirlinerTech series book it says they used CA-15, CA-18, CB-16, -34, and -83A versions. Here are some pics to show the subtle differences between different models:

*The third photo is courtesy of gzt from a previous post*

Notice the very angular crankcase on the resin engine which is correct according to other photos of DC-6 engines I have.

The part numbers for the engines from Roll Models' fantastic catalog are:

-18, -18W: ENG7228005

-42W: ENG7228017

Hope this info is helpful and not too confusing for you. Not to off topic I hope, I tend to waffle on when it comes to engines.

Cheers, Richie

I saw somewhere that the 42 was on the F4U-4B.

I was hoping to ge a quickboost rather than use the kit supplied engine for the simple fact that I an having issue, (mentally), with the idea that the engine in the kit is its own kit. Quickboost seems to be considerably less parts.

, Dave.

Yes Dave, Quickboost engines are very nice! This pic is the -32W(I assume, as the package only says F4U-5 Corsair Engine) I got for my Revell F4U-5. It comes as one piece.

The ones for my DC-6 are just 2 pieces, front and back.

Again, notice the different crankcase.

, Richie

The Quickboost engine does not look like the correct nose case for a -4 or -5 Corsair to me.  I've photographed a -5 at Reno, but since I can't find those photos right now here are some pictures from the Detail and Scale books on the Corsair, which I think are great refs for modelling the F4U's details.  I changed the exposure to enhance the nose case details.  As to the C engine, that is a civil model number, while 32W or 42W are military designations.  It is the same as airplanes, when a major change was made to the engine on the civil side it got a new letter suffix.  There is not a cross reference between the civil and military models because each model number is for a specific installation with all the accessories and other stuff to mate up to the airframe.  For the 42W and 18W the difference is water injection allowing higher boost on the 42W over the 18W to get more short duration power.  Detail and Scale says there was no visible difference between the 18W and 42W, but of course there will be the external plumbing for the water injection.   

The easiest way to quickly identify the right nose case for an 18W/42W or a 32W is a constant diameter on a section next to the front row of cylinders, and a row of bolts on each side of that constant section, then another casting with a bunch of bolted on covers which has a pretty steep taper.  The other nose case design has only one bolted flange and has a longer taper to the prop shaft.  The photo on the bottom of an earlier post (with the DC-6) is of the other more tapered single flange nose case type, as on the F4U-1 variants, as Richie was saying.

Hey guys,

I'm enjoying the engine discussion.  It's funny how engine configurations can vary greatly and only have a simple anotation from the manufacturer.  It's another strange anomoly of the aircraft industy, but I can't think of a better way.

I've been making progress, but it doesn't show very well.  It's been all about sub-assemblies and external parts for me.  I did go nuts with an Eduard PE set, and that's been taking up my modeling time.  I may not be able to make much progress in the near future, so I thought I'd show what I had. 

This is my collection of loose parts, most of which are ready for primer and paint.

Here's the landing gear.  I like how the PE turned out. 

Flaps and Landing Gear Doors add up to alot of parts on a Corsair. 

Here are the fuel tanks, which seem more appropriate (for a night fighter) than 500lb bombs.

It's going to be a busy weekend, I'll be surprised if I touch this F4U-5N over the weekend. 

Semper Fi,

Chris

Looking really good, Chris

I've been scratchbuilding the fiddly parts for the wing-fold .  I hope I finish this kit by the deadline

-Fred

Chris: Looking very nice! Landing gear look great with PE!

John: Thanks for the info bout the engines! The lil sheet that came with my engines for my DC-6 it says that the CB16 is the engine of choice for many warbird restorers despite the fact that CB16s are totally incorrect for F4Us and P-47s. From the pics you posted, a CB16 looks alot like a 42W. When restoring I can imagine you use what you can get your hands on and what looks right.

Cheers, Richie

Alrighty then, the Pratt & Whitney R-2800-18 it is. (or should it be the 18W for a Korean war F4U-4?)

I can get one from engines & things for 22.10....is that okay for price?

, Dave

   Cris, looking GOOD! That is a TRUMP, right? Keep it up

   Dave,that seems to be an average price. I would check with Sprue Bro. and check thier price, and mabey other on line stores. What scale are you building?? Good luck...............Harv 

Chris: if you don't mind  would like to use your pics for refernce to fix my kits ones

Heres the tub to mine about 99% done, little bit more weathering to do to call it done

Heres the new sides,

before:

and after: The only kit pieces left are the basic shape of the sides and the bottom of the control stick

and now everything together in paint

comments welcome

cheers

cliff

Hartmann352 wrote:

Alrighty then, the Pratt & Whitney R-2800-18 it is. (or should it be the 18W for a Korean war F4U-4?) I can get one from engines & things for 22.10....is that okay for price? , Dave

Pit is looking great Cliff! Dave: I just received a Roll Models catalog and the list shows, 1/32 $22.10, 1/48 $9.95, and 1/72 at $5.30. If you are building in 1/32, the price is about right, I reckon.

, Richie

Richie, sorry, should have stated it before, it is 1/32.

Harve & Richie, thanks for the pricing.

Harv, Yup, finally found it there for the 20 bucks...okay okay...19.90. I guess that's the going price....roughly, from anywhere.

P.S. I got the "Engines & things" catalog (in Word Format) e-mailed to me today, WHOLE BUNCHES OF ENGINES!  if anyone wants it, just PM me with e-mail addy, I'll forward it to you, they have 1/32, 1/48, & 1/72, (don't know how you see that scale though..), & some jet engines.

, Dave.

Dave inbound PM

Cheers, Richie

Hi Guys,

Haven't had a chance to visit and or build over the last couple of weeks as my daughter has been in hospital with a bone infection,we are home now but its going to a busy 6-8 weeks as she will need antibiotics every 6 hours.and regular visitsback to hospital.

FRED,

a question if I may?

How did you scratch build the cowling fins?

I have to scratch build a set,. as once I fitted the engine its slightly larger than the kit part

is it a case of meauring each fin and transferring to metal or what?????

Cheers

Chris aka spong 

   Chris, first off, I`m very glad to hear your daughter is ok. I truely hope she continues a good and speedy recovery!!I know lots on this and other forums will wish the same.

  Now for your question. I believe Fred useed an EDUARDS PE set. Fred correct me if I`m wrong, Eduards makes detail sets of high quality brass or steel metal pieces you need to cut from spures and in most casses bend to form the part. Price wise they very, but affordable. You can go to thier web sit and check what they have available for what your building...............Harv 

Well guy's I survived Spring Chores on the Ranch. First morning there May 3rd woke up to the outside temp of 3 degrees... Burrrr.......Had a Great time out helping my Dad and listening to "Navy Stories"     My wife had a super neato gift for me when I got home - A Edward Royal Class Fw 190A-8/R2 kit she scored off ebay for a c-note... How cool is that ?  Glad to see lots of New Faces and Progress Pictures for this GB. Will post some pics myself soon. 

Chris- Lots of Good Karma being sent your way from my family for your little girl. 

Chris my thoughts and prayers are with you and your family as well! Hope she continues on a speedy recovery and gets well soon!!! Must be a terrifying experience.

Keep the Faith!

Cheers, Richie

I have managed to make quite a bit of progress in the last few days!  I have had the last couple of days off from work, and have spent a large portion of it at the bench.  I put a final satin coat on the airframe, then noticed the cracking sometimes found in Future finishes.  I fear that the last wash I applied wasn't fully cured and that is what caused it.  Ah, well... live and learn!  I also added the exhaust and gun stains, and did a tiny amount of paint chipping on the leading edges of the flying surfaces and around the cockpit.  I have decided to use the engine and prop from my failed Corsair attempt last year on this one, and save the super-detailed one for my next Corsair (Oh yes, there WILL be more!).  The hub needs to painted yet, as well as the cap.  I also assembled the LG, and removed the masking from the canopy.  The gear parts almost look like one solid color with te dark blue gear, black tires, and grease/oil stains.  After looking at it, I realized that I accidentally used the -1A hood with the bracing instead of the -1D version.  OOPS!  Guess this one is an EARLY model D.  I also sprayed the no-slip walkways on the wings, and finished up the paint on the drop tanks and rockets.  I wanted the tanks to look really old and beat up, to show that they had been around a while.  I like the contrast of the old beat up tanks and the relatively clean airframe.  Lots of WIP photos!  SHe's really moving along now.  Tomorrow I plan to finish up the detail painting (wingtip, formation, landing, and IFF lights) then possibly even the LG. 

Frank, she be looking mighty fine!!!! Love the tanks!

Cheers, Richie

OMG! Frank! You freaking master you!

That's absolutly fantastic! The canopies are perfect as are the rockets! WOW! I'm very impressed, this is by far the best one I've seen from you yet! Well done friend, well done! Luv the beat up tanks, right on!! 

Q: Did you use Tamiya paint for the blue? Awwe man, what a flawless finish!