The Official F4U Corsair Group Build 4/01/08 - rolling end date

Harv-

Yikes!  Not such a good looking powerplant.  Does Quickboost make one for it?  I have one of theirs in 1/48 that I use as a guide for modifyling kit engines.  If they make one and it's as nice as the 1/48 version, it is DEFINATELY worht the $$$ IMHO.  HTH!

  Moning all. I have another delima. Its the revell engine. Or lack of. Its so inacurate and not sure what to do. I guess I could fix the push rods & add wiring, but would it be better to spend the $16 or so ang get a resin AM engine. Would anyone be willing to sell a Trump engin?? Yea thats what I thought. But where the mags are ,are two humps and thats it. All the pics I`ve seen, I`d have to do some seious cutting to make it look right.Any sugestions? Heres a pic to show what I mean.Sorry about the fuzziness......Harv

Spent some time on the Corsair this weekend, managed to button up the fuse and spray the front under the windscreen.  Also added a few wires to the boxes on the dash for a little extra detail.  Started cleaning up the seams, and hope to put the wing on in a couple of days.  Here she is:

Sean-

WHen I paint exhausts, I usually give them an overall coat of black first.  Then I dry-brush them with raw umber, burnt sienna, and tan.  After glueing them in place, I dust them with similarly colored pastels.  Here's a look at the effect on my P-40E:

dirtball wrote:

Navy, sounds fantastic! Cant wait to see some pics. Should be a true KILLER!!.........Harv

  well, it'll be a while before i post any pics of this one, at least until after i return stateside. although as soon as my F2G and accessories show up i'll get started on it and then post some pics.

Hey Frank,

Mr. Surfacer is supposed to be one of the best filler/primers out there (if you believe the hype).  It comes in 3 grades 500, 1000 and 1200.  500 is for filling seams, scratches and sink holes. 1000 is a filler/primer - basically a primer that is good at filling surface scrathes.  And 1200 is a finishing primer that can be sanded glass smooth.

Sean, thank you for the offer.  But since I won't get a chance to get to my bench until sometime around the 19th (girlfriend seems to be keeping me extra busy over the next couple of days ), it really doesn't matter when it shows up.  But thank you again for the offer.

-Fred

 Hi Fred,

 Just a simple question,what do you use the Mr. Surfacer for?

 Frank

 ps

 just getting back into my half done f4U

I orderd 3 bottles from missionmodels.com.  Hopefully, they get here before the end date of the build

-Fred

Fred, Sprue Brothers are showing to have it in Stock ! I just ordered me a bunch from Hong Kong, took about 3 weeks to get them. 

Fred & Frank your Progress looks Great !  

well, construction is on extended hiatus.  I've been having a heck of a time with the seams, so I finally tracked down a place that carries brushable Mr. Surfacer 500.  Lord knows how long it will be before I get  the stuff - and hopefully, it does what it promises.

-Fred

Thanks Harv, I appreciate that!

Fred- Looking good my friend!

Ok, lest you guys think I don't plan on particimipatin' in my own group build, here's what I've done over the weekend

First, I cut out the gun and ammo bay from the port wing as well as removed the flaps.  I built and painted te PE gun/ammo bay and attached the PE parts to the resin flaps. 

I also built, painted and poorly photograped the resin pit

Thankfully, it looks much better in person

P.S. don't mind the bent IP - I fixed it after I took the photos.

I've also assembled and painted hasegawa's extremely complex engine.  For real, this thing was 3 parts.  Do they think everyone has a Ph.D in model building?  I almost gave up on the kit while working on this part.  I took up this hobby to relax, not be frustrated.

I've also assembled the fuselage and replaced the cowl flaps (terrible, terrible experience).  I'm in the least favorite part of the build - sanding and filling

Next up is to cut up the starboard wing for a folding wing conversion.  Apparently, I'm  glutton for frustration and punishment.

Between work and a busy weekend coming up, progress is going to be slow for a while.

-Fred

Well, I spent a lotta time yesterday and this morning in the shop working on the prop and engine for the Corsair.  The prop got the blade tips painted yellow, then masked for the black.  It was quite a chore to mask around each blade with Handitac for the black color.  Then a little chipping on the leading edges and voila!  This morning I put the logo decals on and she is done waiting for a clearcoat.

On the engine, I added a little brown to the plug wires and some silver where they connect to the ring on the housung.  The front of the engine looks very blue in the photos, but I think a lot of that is it picking up the blue from the background.  It is acually light blueish-grey.  Well, here's my progress thus far:

Hey Sean,

As someone who has built several of the P&W R2800 double wasps, I can tell you what I've found through my research.  The gear covers are light grey, the piston cases can be either steel or aluminium in color, the pushrod cases are either black or aluminium in color and the rocker covers are either black or aluminium in color.  I've seen ignition wiring in aluminium, grey, black and copper color.  Pretty much any combination of those is correct.  I don't know if they came that way from the factory or those were restoration colors.  Unfortunately, most pictures of war-time engines are black and white.

-Fred

Here are a few shots of some radial engines. These are Wright Cyclones from B-17's but generally other models are very similar.

A front view, note the ignition wiring harness  has been removed:

Here's a rear view:

Here's a shot from an engine in the plane. Note the black pushrod tubes, the chrome wiring harness cover, and the fabric insulated spark plug wires.:

Finally, here's a shot of the engine peeking out from behind the cowl and spinner of a modified F2G Corsair:

Hope you find these helpful.

Sean,

Here's a link to a fantastic reference site, Prime Portal.  These photos I got from there:

For radial engines, I usually paint the cylinders a light tannish grey and drybrush silver onto them to give them a metallic look.  The crankcase on mine was painted a lightened blue-grey.  HTH!

Chris,

Glad to help, can't wait to see pics as yours progresses!

Frank,

Looking good,I was going to be building OOB but figured with a year to do the build I'll try to add a few bits and pieces and adding extra detail to the crank shaft was one of the tasks I'm gonna try.

So thanks for posting your photos as they will help heaps..

Cheers

Chris