Battle of Britain GB 2008 - 21 June to 31 Oct 08

Hi sfcmac,-- foul beast it is! :-) The ailerons have great sinks top and bottom, I filled the tops last night, undersides today. Actually I think I'm just procrastinating so I don't have to scribe the other fuselage half...

Mike/TB379

Good work on the sink holes Mike. Mine has quite a few also but only one major one on the wing root. I will be doing the same procedure as you did, super glue and sanding. Good work on the 17.

Steve

Started on Hurricane I  number three yesterday. This time the Airfix offering. Well having finished the Hasegawa kit and the Classic Airframe kit just waiting on decals I can truely say this kit is by far the worst of the three offerings of the Hurricane I in 1/48 scale. Lets see lack of detail poor fit on all major assemblies and sink marks everywhere yup its an Airfix kit! Having said that though it cost all of $15 US dollars with shipping! Having build the other two kits I wanted to throw the Airfix kit in to the mix just to see and because it only seems right to use a British manufactored kit in a BoB group build. here is my progress so far. All of the major assemblies fitted and attached. Just waiting for the glue to set good and then i will start trowling on the putty to try and make a respectable kit out of her.

                                                                                          Soulcrusher

Looks good so far Soulcrusher.

Regards,  Rick

Nice progress SC, it's looking good. Loks like fun wing roots.

I have just finished a marathon session masking all the glass on the gondala and winscreen, boy those germans liked their glass on their aircraft.

Steve

Nice looking progress Mike, I was going to ask you how the Airfix kit compared with the others but I think you've made that pretty plain.

Cheers

Looking good SC, you sure can knock em out at a rate. I take an age to build anything . If thats the original airfix kit. I think i built that in 1977, when i was 8. Geeez. Yours looks better than mine did already LOL.

...Guy

Thanks everyone! Good news my decal set arrived by postal at lunch today.! Now I can finish my Classic Airframes kit!  Production is really stepping up now. Look out Luftwaffe here I come with my own fleet of Hurricanes! Ha Ha Ha!

                                                                                    Soulcrusher

Hi all,

Squadron delivered today, a nice package of decals and accessories. I got stuff for five projects, including four items for the Dornier. Here they are:

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The only new area for me will be the canopy, as I see it I have two options for doing the struts. 1: mask the clear areas and paint them, or 2: mask the whole canopy during painting, then apply the struts with decal strips, double-sprayed with the interior and exterior colors. If masking the glass panels, I'm feeling Bare Metal Foil might be the way to go. What did the other Luft-afficionados here do when "strutting" their stuff (unless it's a trade secret?!)

You know, Squadron delivered in no time at all (don't they always?) GMW haven't even replied to the email I sent them days ago. I'm getting browned off with them, if there was anywhere else to get the Airwaves PE set for the Merkava II ... I'd shop elsewhere.

Oh, and I just heard, with the Olympics slowing things up in Beijing, that Tamiya Emil only went in the post about a week ago.

Cheers,

Mike/TB379

Mike,

I've never had good luck with BMF as a masking agent, although some people get good results with it.  I could never completely get rid of the sticky residue.

Tamiya masking tape (Kabuki Tape) seems to work out the best for me.  It's a tedious process which is why I buy Eduard pre-cut masks whenever I can.

Mike looks like you have a nice package of goodies there. As for masking the canopy I would agree with luftwaffle. BMF is extremly delicate to work with, it will tear instead of cut if the blade is not perfect and it always leaves the glue residue behind on the canopy. Tamiya masking tape, the only way to go if there are not precut masks. I do not envy you having to mask that one! You can burnish the tamiya masking tape down with a toothpick and with some good lighting and a sharp blade trace the frames. if you get a little paint on the glass a little rubbing with a toothpick will usally clean up the frame to a nice sharp edge. good luck buddy!

                                                                               Soulcrusher

1000

In case anyone cares we just passed the 1000 post mark for this GB!!!

MIke, I always use 3M scotch tape to mask my canopies and it's worked just fine.  Tamiya tape is not readily available around these parts and I don't order online very often. 

I use the good old Tamiya tape. Really good stuff, sticks well and leaves no residue and can see through to see the canopy frames. I also use Para-Film. I use it only for german aircraft with the big greenhouses. You stretch it out and place over the canopy and it is heat activated from your fingers or hand. It is almost clear so it's great for canopies. I have only found it once so I use it for complicated work only. Best stuff I have ever used.

Steve

Hi guys,

Vinyl masks! Why didn't I think of that! I searched Squadron at once but can't find them, and they're not in the last printed catalog I received - which is wierd as I have a wheel mask set or two and they can only have come from Squadron... Any recommendations for an outlet for Eduard canopy masks? I can at lest see if a set is made for this subject.

I'll forget BMF -- thanks for the tip! More frustration in my life I don't need! Tamiya tape -- love it, have plenty, I can give it a shot. I was thinking of perhaps masking the panels while the parts are on their sheet for rigidity, then scoring them out, cleaning up and attaching them. Would you recommend a #11 scalpel blade for a job as delicate as this? I have a handle in my toolkit from years back. (I usually use a cheap carton-ripper for all my craftsmanship, sounds crass but it just comes naturally after all these years!)

Can you also suggest a good clear-parts cement? I don't think white glue is going to be good enough.

My other option is to go with double-sprayed decal film, which I've had good results with, but never on this scale.

Steve -- I remember Parafilm-M, I used it in the university labs many years ago. Very clingy! But maybe a bit thick for this type of application -- we'll see, it might end up being an unorthodox solution.

There's also a fisk-film/frisket material made by Revell, my local toystore has some on special (or they did have last week). Might be of use...

Cheers guys! Well, I have no excuse not to get on with this thing now...

Update -- just did some surfing and while Eduard don't have a set for the Do 17Z they sure have one for the Do 215, which was the export variant of the Z series, and the planes appear to have shared almost identical canopies. CX-187 is the factory ref on the set -- now all I need is an outlet!

Mike/TB379

Thunderbolt379 wrote:

Update -- just did some surfing and while Eduard don't have a set for the Do 17Z they sure have one for the Do 215, which was the export variant of the Z series, and the planes appear to have shared almost identical canopies. CX-187 is the factory ref on the set -- now all I need is an outlet! Mike/TB379

Mike, that's most likely for the ICM kit, may fit, may not.  Even though it's supposed to be the same canopy on the real airplane there can be some serious differences when it translates to plastic.

Hi Mike,

That's a very good point -- there could be milimetres difference between the canopies on the two kits and the set will be designed to exctly fit only the ICM... Okay, I think it'll be Tamiya tape, then, applied with the parts on the sheet.

Cheers & thanks,

Mike/TB379

Steve, great progress on the Kondor, she looks huge!

SC, I'll second everything you've written on the Airfix Hurricane, however I must admit I'm enjoying building this old bruiser of a kit.

OzMike, I've often wondered about using the Eduard masks for kits other than their intended victim. Always figured even it they didn't fit perfectly, it was probably better than starting from scratch.

As for my Hurricane, wings are now on, and I will be in a position to attach the clear parts tomorrow.

Now I'm back from the bad lands of Dorset, having consumed too much local beer and cakes I should be able to make some progress.

While on hollies I did manage to bet buzzed on several occasions by the flyboys of the Royal Navy, seeing a Sea Harrier, Seaking and Lynx, all at very low altitude!

Karl

H Karl,

Another good point. If the tape technique doesn't feel comfortable, I'll chase down the 215 set and at least give it a go.

Luftwaffle -- Mike, I was just looking back at your 1:72 109, linking on to Promodeller and finally having a chance to look at their how-to vid. Great stuff, but it automatically demands clearcoats. Assuming Future as the working base, what would you recommend as the flat topcoat? We have limited ranges here in Aus, Humbrol, Testor, Gunze, maybe one other. I've seen such disasters with crazing, fogging (dare I mention decals falling off?) that I have the greatest trepidation where clear coats are concerned. But it's a means to get the look!

Cheers,

Mike/TB379

In the spirit of full disclosure, I may have to withdraw from this GB, as much as I like it.

The Airfix control tower is in fact a model 1941.

Which means that Susannah York will not be taking off her pants any time soon. At least in my house.

Disappointing, to say the least.

In 1940, the watch towers were brick, with round corners and whitish window frames.

And of course photos are few, begging your pardon, as d' ye ken there's a war a'startin'.

I intend to perservere, but in mind as how there is such an attention to accuracy, by the rest of you.

I propose that I, and Bondojuniouress, continue as an Addendum if you will, for the entertainment.

Thunderbolt379 wrote:

Luftwaffle -- Mike, I was just looking back at your 1:72 109, linking on to Promodeller and finally having a chance to look at their how-to vid. Great stuff, but it automatically demands clearcoats. Assuming Future as the working base, what would you recommend as the flat topcoat? We have limited ranges here in Aus, Humbrol, Testor, Gunze, maybe one other. I've seen such disasters with crazing, fogging (dare I mention decals falling off?) that I have the greatest trepidation where clear coats are concerned. But it's a means to get the look! Cheers, Mike/TB379

Mike, Phil Flory (who makes the stuff) claims that he has used just about every clear flat coat you can think of and they all work.  I am an acrylic guy and I use Pollyscale clear flat for all my projects.  I have an old test mule on the workbench that I use to test reactions when I try something new (most of the time), that way there are no unpleasant surprises.

Thunderbolt379 wrote:

H Karl, Another good point. If the tape technique doesn't feel comfortable, I'll chase down the 215 set and at least give it a go. Luftwaffle -- Mike, I was just looking back at your 1:72 109, linking on to Promodeller and finally having a chance to look at their how-to vid. Great stuff, but it automatically demands clearcoats. Assuming Future as the working base, what would you recommend as the flat topcoat? We have limited ranges here in Aus, Humbrol, Testor, Gunze, maybe one other. I've seen such disasters with crazing, fogging (dare I mention decals falling off?) that I have the greatest trepidation where clear coats are concerned. But it's a means to get the look! Cheers, Mike/TB379

You mean something like this Mike? All of the decals with a clear carrier film wrinkled up like a chip. The dullcoat was Testors Acrylic over Testors Acrylic paints. i have no idea why it happened but I had to strip the whole model back down and buy two different decal sets to replace the damaged ones as this is a fabric wing Hurricane and there are not alot of choiced for ones that participated in the BoB. I have her all painted agian and i am going to use testors glosscoat to smooth things over for the decals this time.

                                                                          Soulcrusher

Hi sc -- yes, exactly like that! What a disaster! I was comparing it to a recent armour build in which a flat coat caused frosting and crazing on a beautifully finished Jagdpanther. To me it feels like a dangerously uncontrolable extra step, what my dear departed Dad used to call 'just something else to go wrong!' Yet lots of folks get it to work all the time. It may be we don't have the range of materials to work with here, though, there's no Future and precious few finishing product ranges. I once experimented with Tamiya clear gloss, but it looked less-bright than the paint it was ging over, so I didn't bother!

Cheers,

TB379

I only use Future for a gloss top-coat & Polly Scale flat for the final top coat.  Never had a reaction with the decals, although I did have one bad bottle of Polly Scale flat that dried cloudy.

Regards,  Rick

I've never had a top coat react badly with decals, but then I've screwed up enough decals with over doing the setting and softening solutions!

I think the key is the second coat of Future over the decals as a barrier.

Couple of pics of the Hurricane...

I've drilled out the exhaust recesses ready to accept a pair of Hase ones from the spares box, much better looking than the airfix ones which look like blobs!

The silver on the leading edges of the wing are for the landing lights. Airfix just provide a blank box with a clear cover, so I've added a couple of punched discs to replicate the reflectors.

You can't see it in either of the above shots, but I've also hollowed out the front of the carburettor intake below the wing.

I should finally get to attach the canopy tomorrow, then it's off to the paint shop.

Karl

Looking good there Karl. I also borrowed some parts from the Hasegawa kit. The Airfix wheels were crappy so i pulled them from one of my Hasegawa kit that was already missing a seat. Now i think i am going to use the Hasegawa kit for all of the small detail parts to bring the kit quality up. I also am using the Aeromaster decals to finish it off.

                                                                            Soulcrusher

Karl, nice work and its looking good. Keep it up and keep the progress comming.

Steve

Thanks guys.

I put some primer down last night, and looks like I have a little work to do before painting starts in earnest.

SC, the Hase kit is a useful source of upgrade parts. I've used the radiator faces as well, but have a set of MDC wheels, which only differ from the Hase ones in that they are weighted.

One thing I have found is that the Rotol spinner is way too big for the rest of the model. At first I thought it was me, however the MDC DeHaviland spinner fits perfectly.

Karl

Hi lads. Me again. Ive not deserted you all. Reading with interest the BMF and masking quandries. I only ever use pre cut masks or tamiya tape. If you cant get Tamiya tape where you live, id seriously recommend ordering the stuff in bulk. Its invaluable in my workshop. I even get twitchy when stocks start to run a little low. As for the clearcoat issues. I Have always used either Tamiya Clear or xtracrylics flat base. I did have issues with my Tamiya clear. God nows why. The model i did after was perfect. Who knows eh?

Bondoman, Its a bummer to be losing you from the GB. Are you sure they didnt make that type of building in 1940? Im sure you could have an Honoury 'Let in' as youve been so prevalent in this GB. Id personally love to see the control tower in all its glory.

...Guy

Looks good so far Karl.  Should be another sweet looking Hurricane.

Regards,  Rick