Battle of Britain GB 2008 - 21 June to 31 Oct 08

Another quick update on the fw-200 and the 109. On the subject of canopy masks here is how I usually do luftwaffe canopies. Thin strips for the framework and then fill in the centers. The small strips gives me more controle over complex curves and big greenhouses.

It takes a little more time but I like the way it turnes out.

Steve

Hi Steve -- yes, the 'tiny bits of tape' method! It's time consuming but tried and tested. Do you fill the interior areas with more tape or with masking fluid? I might try combining methods, tape plus masks if I can find that Eduard set, at the least it would offer a comparison for future reference on the benefits and shortcomings of each.

I visited the LHS today and picked up RLM-02 and -04. That means I'm all set to do the interior of the Dornier, not that Matchbox provide much under that greenhouse. The most visible detail will be the four crew figures, so I guess it's time to ask if anybody has done a pilot figure in this GB? I have a reference in an old Purnell volume for the Luft flying uniform of 1940, and if I can match the colors they should be an interesting bit of paintwork. The figures are molded quite well, well enough to pass muster through the transparency though I wouldn't want to use them in an open cockpit. I won't bother with extra cockpit detailing, four sets of PE harnesses sounds like the punchline to a joke to me...!

Then I can get the fuselage together, mate the wing and deal with the joints, then rescribe all lines crossing the centreline. I can also get the engines and cowls together.

Cheers,

Mike/TB379

Hey Mike, I am not masking the inside as the canopies are installed and sealed in place. After masking I paint the frames interior RLM02 so the topcoat will seal it inside. In the event I paint the canopy seperately I do tape the whole interior so as to prevent bleedthrough. I do have figures on the fw-200 and you can see a little bit of them on an earlier post. All I did was paint them the same colours as in the BOB movie. Tan overalls with leather flying helmets. I also painted my little Galland but he is sealed up inside the masked canopy and wont see daylight till the build is done. I painted him in his blue uniform colour with tan lifevest. Hope that helpes.

Steve

Hi Steve,

Yes, that's good advice! I was planning to do the interior color as a show-through under the exterior paint. I'm thinking of leaving the vacform parts on their carrier sheet until they're all masked, then grafting them over onto the fuselage so there's minimum stress placed on them until its time to unmask.

Well, I guess I'd better pull out those refs and match the uniform colors -- with a bit of luck I'll have the fuselage assembled in the next day or two.

Cheers,

Mike/TB379

Mike, here are some figures I did to go with my Dornier.

Nice work on the masking of the condor. Thats the way i do it, accept with Maskol in the centres. Showes the sheer size of the thing compared against your 109. Shes a monster.

...Guy

Hi Mike,

I remember that shot, great work, it feels really atmospheric. It remains to be seen how well the figures will come out, I test-painted one this evening and it's not bad -- I matched the colors to the tan flightsuit with gloves, helmet and boots, all in leather, based on a photo in Salamander's 50th anniversary book. Hmmm, now I remember why I build armor, in large scales! I just wanna get to the good stuff: finally assembly, spraying and decals!!!

Mike/TB379

Steve, great progress on the Fw200 and the 109.

I use the same approach with Tamiya masking tape. Be careful if using Maskol over Futured canopies as it reacts with the Future.

Go on, ask how I know?

Mike, looking forward to some more shots of the Dornier. 

I was in my WHS, that is work hobby shop, at lunchtime and spotted a Matchbox Heinkel He115 in mint condition, boy was i tempted, but then I thought about all that canopy masking.

The Hurricane is still having it's various foibles exposed by the primer coat fixed, but is now pretty much ready for the final coat of primer before it get's a coat of Sky.

Karl

Thanks for the advise Karl, dont worry I wont ask as I dont want to dredge up old memories for you. I have used liquid masks before and never seem to be able to get it all off so I have quit using it.

Steve

Hi all,

A postman's knock a few minutes ago -- and there's my new box of goodies from Beijing. Somewhat crushed, even by airmail (aren't they always from China???) but I am now the proud owner of a Tamiya Emil. I'm up to the RLM-02 for the Dornier so I may as well lay it onto both at the same time. For an Emil of mid-1940, that's cockpit, instrument panel, wheel wells, gear struts and wheel hubs, right?

I think this'll be a mostly OOB build, this is Tamiya we're talking out -- all the same, can anyone recommend anything in particular this beast needs that isn't in the box?

Cheers,

Mike/TB379

Hi Mike,

Gotcha -- black! I'm looking forward to building a model that won't fight me at every step, and it'll be my first Bf 109 since I was a kid. A learning experience, to be sure! The instructions quote a camo of RLM 65 underside and a splinter scheme on top of RLM 71 and 02. Does this sound correct? I'm no expert on Luftwaffe colors, I know more about Panzers!

Cheers,

TB379

Hi Mike,

Right -- thanks for the confirmation! I'll need to pick up the 65 and 71 next week. It looks like a Model Master enamels job, it'll be good to work with enamels again, my last three jobs have been acrylics.

I'm thinking an open canopy, flaps and slats down, maybe the rudder offset, though the latter would mean trimming away the mounting tabs. Question -- did the Bf 109 have a control stick/surfaces lock that would 'zero' the rudder and elevators when on the ground? I can't recall this feature on planes other than the P-51, but I'm only an expert to that level on Mustangs.

Dying to build this beast!

Cheers,

Mike/TB379

Made some good progress on the fabric wing Hurricane the last two days. I've got a coat of future down and all of the decals in place. Working on all the little bits now like the under carrige wheeels and prop. Should be able to seal it all up tomorrow under a coat of future.

                                                                                     Soulcrusher

Looking good Soulcrusher .

Regards,  Rick

very nice job SC. It's looking like the end is near in sight and its turning out well.

Steve

Soulcrusher Great progress You sure like your hurricanes

Steve great progress too.

Well its been a month since I sent a letter and instructions to Revell for my missing prop and still no response from them. Couple of questions, Is that normal and if they dont have the part do they let you know its not comming?. I have never done this before so I dont know. Lastly, I have looked a little for an aftermarket replacement and no luck yet. So does anyone know if there are resin or other aftermarket parts for a fw-200?. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.

Steve

sidure wrote:

Well its been a month since I sent a letter and instructions to Revell for my missing prop and still no response from them. Couple of questions, Is that normal and if they dont have the part do they let you know its not comming?. I have never done this before so I dont know. Lastly, I have looked a little for an aftermarket replacement and no luck yet. So does anyone know if there are resin or other aftermarket parts for a fw-200?. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. Steve

Hmmmm if you are indeed desparate enough I have a solution. You have to tax your memory and look back at my Dornier progress. Remember that mold Making stuff I used to replicate and clone parts. I did an engine and a bunch of figures. I am guessing you have 3 good props for that beast.  A little work with that stuff and you could have all the props you need for a fleet of Condors in about 2 days.

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn135/sfcmac65/ModelPics014-2.jpg

Had to look it was way back on page 13 of this GB.  Cheapest place to get that stuff is Hobby Lobby using the 40 % off internet coupon. The sets range in size and cost between $30-$70 on the size of the set so the coupon is a big saver.

If things are really bad you could mail me one and I could make a few and send them back your way.  Anything to see this great bird fly!  Great work everyone!

SC you have a definite hurricane complex! Better hurry Eagle day is in 2 weeks!

That mold making stuff is buy  Aluminite here is the web site.

http://www.alumilite.com/

SC, great progress on the Hurricane.

Steve, I've got a number of spare props from BMW 801 engined machines that might fit your Kondor. Let me know if you want me to send you some.

My Hurricane is almost ready for some top coat now, just fairing in the canopy with Micro Krystal Klear, as the fit is next to useless at the front.

Karl

Thanks for the advise guy's. I did think if I could find the stuff I would attempt to make one but that is a whole new world to me. I may take you up on the offer to mail you one of the kits props if you would not mind doing that.

How close does your prop look like the ones I have KJ. I will take a close up photo and post it to make a comparison.

Which ever way is easiest. Thanks a lot for the offers, I will let ya know soon.

Steve

Thanks everyone for the great comments.

Karl I know what you mean about the canopy fit on that Airfix kit. Mine want to sit sideways in the opening. i had to spendal ot of time filling the opening to get it to sit right.

Aaron i will have my trio of Hurri's ready for Adler Tag!

                                                                                  Soulcrusher

Hi Steve,

Pity Revell are dragging their feet, I've usually had good service where replacement parts are concerned, just recently I got a part from Testors in no time, and I got a replacement for a broken prop on the Ar 196 from Airfix a few years ago. You could drop them a line, open an email dialog -- chances are the business has been lost in the system, not ignored. Don't give up!

But if you need to fabricate a replacement, you can. It'll take work, but it can be done. I've used Alumilite for about three years and it's good stuff. It's neither magic nor rocket science, and there are many ways for the job to go wrong, so be prepared for plenty of reject parts.

You'd need to sacrifice one of the props as a pattern. My impression is you'd need to cast the spinner and the blades seperately, allowing for one-part molds, a LOT easier than a two-part mold -- though you could cast the prop in one go in a two-parter (base of the blades would be very fragile, it might not be worth the effort if they snapped straight away). Air bubbles are the biggest problem in home molding, as it's not usually possible to afford a vacuum chamber to de-gas the resin (nor does Alumilite's three-minute pot-life really give you time to).

The ins and outs of casting are detailed on Alumilite's website and they always include plenty of technique paperwork with their products, there's a how-to booklet that's always lots of help. Give it some thought -- if you need to enter the world of casting, it's a great skill that'll serve you in future. I use it for repetitive structures in SF scratchbuilding and it makes possible many projects which would otherwise be non-starters.

Cheers,

Mike/TB379

Karl, Steve, SC, great work guys. keep the pics coming. 

Sorry I have not been around much.  My house has been turned upside down by recent renovation work and I have lost my modeling bench temporarily.  Hopefully I'll be back up and running soon. 

What a fella that Aaron is. Ive had stuff sent to me by fab modellers on this site fom America. All the way across the atlantic. This forum is full of blokes (And girls) who rock. Aaron your a top man.

...Guy

Thanks for all the assistance guys, its really appreciated. You guys should work for Revell customer department. Aaron, PM inbound and thanks for the favour.

Should have some updates on the 200 and 109 tonight, got some bench time last nite and there is actually some paint getting flung around now.

Steve