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Trumpeters Karl-Morser in 1/35 Build

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  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by jibber on Saturday, September 12, 2015 11:31 AM

One thing I forgot, you can see on the cleats the rust tones vary just a bit but the rails (that are really bad to see) is a solid rust color. Sometimes the cleats rust a bit differently from the many rail photos I have, so from my mix you can see the slight variation in colors.

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Tumwater, WA.
Posted by M. Brindos on Wednesday, September 16, 2015 1:28 PM

Love it, love it, love it! :)

- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by jibber on Friday, September 18, 2015 2:20 PM

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Friday, October 2, 2015 10:01 PM

jibber

Wow, THAT came out great, Terry! Nice progress so far!

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by jibber on Saturday, October 3, 2015 7:14 AM

Karl thanks for showing that, with so much going on I forgot to put a wash over the decals. Busy, Terry

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by jibber on Tuesday, October 13, 2015 11:06 AM

One quick update, The stone wall that'll be located as a backdrop to the rail lines is cut out and painted. I'm waiting for the glues to set before I color in any missed spots and work on the top of the wall. I think the colors and stone came out alright.

Terry

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Tuesday, October 13, 2015 12:05 PM
Some more great work there Terry. I like your idea for the back drop.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by jibber on Tuesday, October 13, 2015 4:02 PM

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by jibber on Tuesday, October 13, 2015 4:10 PM

Geez I forgot what I wanted to post with the stonework, IDIOT....

I experimented with a lot of things to get the right "look" for the wall and in the end I used a couple Woodland Scenic rubber molds with lightweight Hydrocal, in all I think I have about 10 different poured rocks in there.

I also used just (4) paints to get the color I wanted. Woodland Scenic Stone Gray as my base color, then a black acrylic (with some water) as a wash over craggy areas then drybrushed some acryllic Milk Chocolate color and basic white on the tips. I think it was  effective. 

Terry

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by jibber on Tuesday, October 13, 2015 4:13 PM

My next bit of work is to shape up the foam board I used as a platform to glue the stone to and then cut away and tint those areas where the rocks connect. A grass, weed an gravel ground cover will go on top creating a guards pathway.  

Terry

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Tuesday, October 13, 2015 4:13 PM
I'd swear you grabbed a rock from the back yard and are just giving us a bunch of whoie. Wink

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Tuesday, October 13, 2015 4:16 PM
Ye, I would go with that layout. I find most of my dio's evolve as they progress. Even though I start off by drawing them out, once they become 3D they star to look very different. The main thing is to stick to your idea even if the scene is tweaked a bit.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Tuesday, October 13, 2015 8:39 PM

Realy nice work there once again, Terry! Big Smile

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: Denver, Colorado
Posted by waynec on Tuesday, October 13, 2015 9:43 PM

jibber

Karl thanks for showing that, with so much going on I forgot to put a wash over the decals. Busy, Terry

 

that's funny. i have a bad habit of forgeting to put decals on becasue i want to get to the weathering. everything is looking good. i like the tracks. as was suggested, i think by Karl a while back, to add some dark stains along the mddle of the ties from oil, grease, passenger waste, etc. my low side gondola took a first in miscellaneous at a local contest on 10OCT.

Никто не Забыт    (No one is Forgotten)
Ничто не Забыто  (Nothing is Forgotten)

 

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by jibber on Wednesday, October 14, 2015 8:15 AM

Great Wayne and thanks for all the support. As to the oil track along the ties, I just haven't got their yet. It's on a long list of TTD. I'm tackling them one at a time and I still have figures to add...

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: Denver, Colorado
Posted by waynec on Wednesday, October 14, 2015 9:19 AM

jibber

Geez I forgot what I wanted to post with the stonework, IDIOT....

I experimented with a lot of things to get the right "look" for the wall and in the end I used a couple Woodland Scenic rubber molds with lightweight Hydrocal, in all I think I have about 10 different poured rocks in there.

I also used just (4) paints to get the color I wanted. Woodland Scenic Stone Gray as my base color, then a black acrylic (with some water) as a wash over craggy areas then drybrushed some acryllic Milk Chocolate color and basic white on the tips. I think it was  effective. 

Terry

 

 

that's how i do mine too. i usually add a hint of color on the rocks, green if a mossy area, reds and yellows otherwise. then what you do with darker colors in the cracks. save the broken pieces from the mold. i have an entire container of scree, which are big rocks in 1/72.. have you found a way to seal the rocks after painting? only problem with hydrocal is it chips really easily.

as for the tracks, yes long list of little things. i understand from doing the K-5.

Никто не Забыт    (No one is Forgotten)
Ничто не Забыто  (Nothing is Forgotten)

 

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Tumwater, WA.
Posted by M. Brindos on Wednesday, October 14, 2015 12:59 PM

Those rocks look like real rocks. O.O

- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by jibber on Wednesday, October 14, 2015 2:55 PM

Wayne small cracks I'll fill with Hydrocal but larger ones its plaster cloth. Just wet it and form it in place, sets really hard and paintable. 

Thanks Mike I agree, even close up they have a nice color and shape to them, little more work to do before I set the wall in.

Terry

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Wednesday, October 14, 2015 3:03 PM

Hey Terry, I keep forgeting you're posting a few things over here you're not posting on the GB and I'm missing out! Great job on the rocks, I'd swear they were the real thing. 

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by jibber on Wednesday, October 28, 2015 3:06 PM

I'm running a little slow lately but I've almost completed my rock wall, I still have to finish the top after laying a thin sheet of artist clay. I'm really happy in how realistic its looking. I still have a ways to go but I think nows a good time to make some real progress.

A close up of any of the photos will show how intricate the stone is. Thanks for looking, I cant wait to finish this one.

Terry 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Wednesday, October 28, 2015 4:16 PM

I like the look of that rock Terry. I have been wanting to do something like for armour dio's and have been eyeing up those Woodland moulds. Very nice indeed.

The woodland scenice pigment, is that painted onto the rock or added to the Hryocal before adding into the mold.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    March 2013
  • From: Puebla, Mexico
Posted by garzonh on Wednesday, October 28, 2015 7:26 PM

WOW, the dio looks great..all paintwork is magnificent.

I would had saved me a lot of time and just add real rocks...hehehe..but yours really give a nice scaled rocks.

Thumbs up.

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by jibber on Wednesday, October 28, 2015 8:58 PM

Thank you both, I rarely get to excited over this stuff but I think the rocks look cool.

Bish I made the forms and gave it a base coat. In this case I used Woodland Scenic Slate Gray, let it dry and dry brushed a cheap craft brown as an iron tint. Then I watered down a cheap acrylic black to gave it a wash and then to finish, a dry brushing of an acrylic white on the tips.

Relatively easy but looks great.

Terry 

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Tumwater, WA.
Posted by M. Brindos on Wednesday, October 28, 2015 9:08 PM

It looks better than great, it looks real! Those look like real friggin rocks, man.

- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by jibber on Thursday, October 29, 2015 4:05 AM

Thanks Mike. I've done some before but to me this technique has been the best so far, a little messy but good results in the end.  

Terry

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by jibber on Friday, October 30, 2015 2:26 PM

A little more work on the base and groundcover. Still much to go but its starting to look like a scene, minus the Morser.

 

 

More to do, thanks for looking.

Terry

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, October 30, 2015 2:41 PM

I think those rocks look brilliant and I like the buffers as well.

But if that was not enough, that last pic just got my attention. I love the /20.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

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