Wow! Its been two days since this site would let me log in. Anyone else having this issue? The new security protocols must be out of whack or something. But finally! I got to log in.

Have any of you tried wet blending with an AB before? I tried. Well it did not turn out well at all. It just looked like a really bad AB paint job. I had to basically repaint all over again. I'll show that in a bit.

Last thing I did two nights ago was pull out the TC figure and see what I'm working with. He's going to take almost as much scratch building as the tank itself!



So this is what I started with from two nights ago's painting session. A good solid coverage to start with.



From there I went with a very wet highlight, that honestly I had thought would blend on its own. Nope. It just stayed that way after it dried. </3 [sigh].



So after that I just darkened the paint with more of the base color and didn't add any more thinner to the mix. That thickened it up and I went over all of the lighter stuff again. This time it has dried far more subtly and you have to look close to see it. That's just what I've been looking for. I wanted just a touch of modulation just to bring out the shapes on the tank and give it just a hint more of contrast. This will not be noticeable when I'm done, but that's because it will trick your eyes into seeing only natural shading.




There's all sorts of subtle shading going on in these following pictures. All of the shades I kept respraying over each other has left a lot of very fine shading that is nearly invisible. Every real life Tanker, current or former, will tell you that they are not shaded and there is NO modulation. EVER. But in scale replication we artist's can have a bit of license to help our viewers see things a little clearer. As you all know very well, a straight color plain overall paint job on anything looks quite bland on anything in our preferred scales. The smaller you go, the more effects you need to bring out the details to the average viewer.

So here are some shots of the tank as the paint is still drying. It should look a whole lot better in the morning. Right now its still tacky in some areas where my respraying got a little crazy lol. The new highlights are darkening as they dry, so by then there may not be much to notice in anything but pure sunlight.










So yeah. That's done. I suppose some minor effects are in order next, eh? I'll keep you all posted.    Have a great day!

After the paint had dried it was almost undetectible in some areas, and slightly noticable in others. Saturday night I painted the mantlet dust cover to break up the monotony of the OD paint and added the decals last night. This morning I gave it another good cote of sealer so I can now just dink around with some effects to bring up the realism level a bit more. From this point forward it will all be effects and detail painting.

This is what it looked like before a clear cote and decals.

The clear cote has made the subtle modulation almost invisible, but if you go back and look at the first few pictures before the modulation you can tell the difference between the two.

I know, I know. Not really much of a difference. Just a lot of pictures of the same OD color, but I assure you this will look better as I progress. I'm following some of Gino's advice with this one and we all know he can make stunning models. So wish me luck that I can make this one just as good.

Looking real good Mike!

I know myself and a few others were unable to log in from Saturday nite until this morning, But I think we were all on "time out". 

A time out, eh? What kind of trouble have you guys been getting into? lol

Um, on the modelling side of things... I'm pretty tired tonight. I think I'll dink around with some weathering around the tracks or something. I've got an idea about using some of my oils to try an effect.

The oils worked out well. I'll have to keep working this out over the rest of the tank now.

That looks pretty good to me. A little dusty and rain streaked. Not too bad.  :)

I couldn't log in until right now as well. 

The tank is looking good with all the fine tuning you're doing. 

M. Brindos

A time out, eh? What kind of trouble have you guys been getting into? lol

oh nothing... 

Oh fine. Keep your secrets then. lol

Thanks to both of you. I tried a different method using AK Interactive rain streaks for the dirt build-up in the wheels. I'm not completely sold on it and I'd like some opinions.

I also gave the mantlet cover a nice brown wash and that turned out okay. I'll have to dry brush it later, but that's fine.

I'll definitely have to blend that all together later. Sticks out way too much, I think, right now and looks artificial still. Gotta work on that still.

M. Brindos

Oh fine. Keep your secrets then. lol

Wonderful build. You really do this thing well, in that you see right down to the heart of the AFV and then back out as needed and sensible.

Let me try to explain that. A lot of the time, ther's a tendency to take a look at a subject, read about it, bone up on the best model and then try to do it up real.

You sort of grab and go, then look into the subject, then make it happen.

Bill

The oils and streaking did turn out well.  The lower hull sides, inboard of the road wheels, look appropriately grimy.  The soil streaking at the front of the lower hull looks appropriate as well.  The upper hull streaking makes it seem like the tank has seen rain.  You said you were going for a lightly weathered look.  I think you're hitting the nail on the head.  I know these vehicles were often washed and prepped for inspection, but I doubt any of them ever saw a bottle of Turtle Wax.  Great work!

Chris

Its looking good.  The subtle weathing is pretty effective.  One comment though.  The USA serial number on the right side is off.  The USA always comes before the number, just as you have it on the left side.  Probably too late to fix though.  Other than that, it is looking really good.

GMorrison

 Wonderful build. You really do this thing well, in that you see right down to the heart of the AFV and then back out as needed and sensible.

Let me try to explain that. A lot of the time, ther's a tendency to take a look at a subject, read about it, bone up on the best model and then try to do it up real.

You sort of grab and go, then look into the subject, then make it happen.

 

Bill

 

I do tend to just grab and go, don't I? I do like to get a little info on the subject as well and then it just progresses. So yeah, that sounds about right lol. I kinda reside in-between realism and fiction with my builds I suppose.

Thank you, Bill.  :)

ridleusmc

The oils and streaking did turn out well.  The lower hull sides, inboard of the road wheels, look appropriately grimy.  The soil streaking at the front of the lower hull looks appropriate as well.  The upper hull streaking makes it seem like the tank has seen rain.  You said you were going for a lightly weathered look.  I think you're hitting the nail on the head.  I know these vehicles were often washed and prepped for inspection, but I doubt any of them ever saw a bottle of Turtle Wax.  Great work!

Chris

 

I don't think they ever did see a bottle of Turtle Wax lol. Thanks, Chris!

HeavyArty

Its looking good.  The subtle weathing is pretty effective.  One comment though.  The USA serial number on the right side is off.  The USA always comes before the number, just as you have it on the left side.  Probably too late to fix though.  Other than that, it is looking really good.

 

Thank you, Gino.

Tamiya has the U.S.A. as a separate decal from the serial numbers and I had added the serial numbers first and then hit them with the liquid cement. Once you do that there is no going back. I added the U.S.A. to the left side and then went to the right side. That's when I had the D'oh! moment. Now I have to live with it.  :/

I didn't do much with the tank today. Its the dust in the wheels that I've decided is bothering me. I feel the need to change it. It just looks too close to white and I don't like it. It doesn't jive with the rest of the weathering so far and looks very out of place to me.

I did, however, paint the Ma Deuce up a little.

From there I decided I wanted to do more painting today and my neglected little Albatros was calling to me. Check my other thread for details, lol.

I sorted out the wheels and tracks. I may play withthe tracks a little more later, but for now they look alright.

My M-2 got a good old rubdown with an actual Number 2 lead pencil I found. Its a little less worn looking than when I use a modern graphite pencil. Now I know.

The handles got a cote of Testors Rubber enamel to replicate the Bakelite they used in this time period.

The pack got a dose of MM Field Drab and the gas cans were painted with MM Olive Drab. I like the contrast of the different makes of OD.

The rear deck louvres got a black wash to fill them in.

So that's about it for this morning. Have a great day! Happy modelling!

:)

Hello! This project has been sitting on a shelf for years now and after seeing some of the more recent builds of this kit here I got the *** up for pushing it over the finish line.

I finished up the detail painting (tools, exhausts, headlights, vision blocks, etc.) and started in on the TC figure. You have two options with his left arm and one with his right holding a pair of binoculars. You can either choose to have both hands on the binoculars, or one arm hanging mystifyingly in mid air. 

I chose the hanging arm and decided I wanted to reposition it so he's holding onto the tank with his left hand. That meant cutting him off at the elbow and the hand to reposition them accordingly.

I drilled some holes in the separated pieces and bent them until they met my needs. After that I filled in the gaps with milliput, waited an hour and shaped the milliput into shape, leaving very little later to sand down.

After cleaning up that arm I went for the helmet. I tried to save the goggles, but they were too far out of round and irregularly shaped. I tried to correct it, but just made a mess of them instead. I pulled a spare set from Academy to replace them.

After a fresh coat of primer and a unifying overall spray of O.D. I got to work on the face. I don't know, but I knocked it out in about 30 or so minutes this time. That's a record for me. The eyes went easily without problems or repaints. That's unusual!

So I've finished blocking in that work and spraying a clear coat to seal it. I'll get to work on all of the helmet details next.

Thanks for looking!

I built it OOTB and added a resin detail set for a Vietnam example, along with some gear from a Tamiya vehicle accessory set. It turned out pretty decent! In several years of retrospect there are a few things I'd change about it, eg: adding vision blocks for the driver, but I'm still happy with it.

Oh, that's a fantastic job on the tank commander Mike!

Coffeepoweredprof

I built it OOTB and added a resin detail set for a Vietnam example, along with some gear from a Tamiya vehicle accessory set. It turned out pretty decent! In several years of retrospect there are a few things I'd change about it, eg: adding vision blocks for the driver, but I'm still happy with it.

 

I did use a few pieces from the Academy Tanker Accessories Set, but most of the details and improvements have been scratch built.

As of last night I did notice I'm missing the periscope guard in front of the loaders hatch and I have to fix that.

Thanks for your reply!

Thanks, Gamera! They just keep getting easier with each one I paint.

Did a bit of research and dug into the net for answers about where I should place this tank. But it's a bit confusing. There was no 5∆2∆37 532 that I can find. 

The 37th Armor Regiment has a long history dating back to 1941 and commanded by Abrams himself.

However the M-41 was only produced between '51-'54 and leaves a very specific window of U.S. operations as far as I can tell with the limited information available.

The 37th Armor Regiment was assigned to the 4th Armored Division in 1953 at Ft Hood, Texas. I can find no record of it being assigned to the 5th Armored Division and this leads me to believe these markings for the time period are incorrect.

The 532 on the the turret are fine, being 5th Co. 3rd Pl. Tank number 2.

In conclusion I think the markings should be 4∆2∆37 for the time period of 1953-1957 when the M-41 was active with the 37th Armor Regiment.

If anyone has any more information please feel free to share. I'm sure I'm missing a ton of information.

******

On another note, aside from a bit more weathering the model is finished and I just have to decide how clean I want it. Pictures to come later.

Well done mate.

As an aside, the M41 chassis became the base for the first large scale production tracked US APC, the M59 with about 6500 units. The earlier M75 was based on the Hellcat, at about 1,750 units.

Dodgy

Well done mate.

 

Thank you, Rob.

GMorrison

As an aside, the M41 chassis became the base for the first large scale production tracked US APC, the M59 with about 6500 units. The earlier M75 was based on the Hellcat, at about 1,750 units.

 

 

I didn't find that information in my search. That's an interesting factoid. 

Mike,

Wow!  You have an incredible eye for detail.  Well done!  I do have one question. Should there be some form of rank insignia on the TC?  I was Navy so I only have limited information on Army work uniforms.

Bill Morrison

He's wearing a set of coveralls and I haven't seen any pictures of rank and unit patches on any of the coveralls. 

I'm not confirming that it never happened, only that I haven't seen it. 

Mike,

Thanks.  It is different in the Navy.  That is why I asked.

Bill

No problem, Bill.

But I think I need to be more specific. I found no evidence that and insignias were worn on Tnker coveralls at Fort Hood between 1953-1957. Period photographs I've dug up show almost no one wearing the coveralls. So I'm left to imagine that they were either seldom worn, or just not issued to some companies. 

To be honest I wouldn't mind tossing some Sargeant's stripes on the figure for more visual interest, as well as more crew stowage. These things can be added later if I feel like it.

Overall I feel like this build has become more than basic. I've put a lot of details into it and I think it really stands out. The completed figure really stands out as the crowning jewel and I'm really happy with how I've finished the build. Now I just have to make up my mind about the final touches.

I may finally make a base. Maybe I'll invest in some indy links. I'm happy with this one.

Mike,

I agree!  You have a work of art with this model.  Considering the fundamental limitations of the original kit, your work is nothing short of remarkable!  You have every right to be proud of your work.  Well done, sir!

Bill

warshipguy

Mike,

I agree!  You have a work of art with this model.  Considering the fundamental limitations of the original kit, your work is nothing short of remarkable!  You have every right to be proud of your work.  Well done, sir!

Bill

 

Wow! Thank you!

I took these pictures between torrential downpours and I'm satisfied with them. I still think the tank needs more dirt and possibly more stowage. I'll have to find some reference photos and see if that was something done in that time period at Fort Hood.