SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

T54-E1 FINISHED PICS!

13280 views
222 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Fort Knox
Posted by Rob Gronovius on Sunday, May 7, 2017 10:12 AM

I like it, but I think the crew would have painted the canvas covering with the stripes and not stopped at the edges.

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Sunday, May 7, 2017 9:50 AM

Tojo72
That's an awesome camo job,also love the wrathering.
 

Thanks so much, Tojo! :)

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Sunday, May 7, 2017 9:48 AM

templar1099

I gotta say Doog that I've picked up more info from your approach to builds than most of the reading and videos I've done.

 

Well, that thrills me. Big Smile That's what I'm here for! Glad to hear it!

 

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Sunday, May 7, 2017 9:47 AM

warshipguy

Karl,

It's stunning!  However, I do have a question about the rain streaking on the turret.  Was this airbrushed in a mist from a distance so that it would run and streak, or is it painted with a fine brush?  It looks terrific!

Bill

 

Thanks so much, Bill!

That rain streak effect is always brushed on with a brush. You couldn't really put it on in any quantity to let it "run"--you'd have to glop it on to do that.

The skinnier the brush, the better. It's enamel based, so thinner is used to draw it down. You can also put dots of oil on the model and then use a wide brush soaked with thinner and then dabbed on a paper towel (to absorb the excess thinner) to draw them down in a nice, random fashion. A slightly more advance way would be to "spatter" the oil paint or WILDER product on and then do the wide-brush tango to draw it down. Try it on a scrap piece of painted plastic or an old model first.

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Sunday, May 7, 2017 8:36 AM
That's an awesome camo job,also love the wrathering.

  • Member since
    December 2015
  • From: providence ,r.i.
Posted by templar1099 on Sunday, May 7, 2017 8:31 AM

I gotta say Doog that I've picked up more info from your approach to builds than most of the reading and videos I've done.

"le plaisir delicieux et toujours nouveau d'une occupation inutile"

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Groton, CT
Posted by warshipguy on Sunday, May 7, 2017 6:57 AM

Karl,

It's stunning!  However, I do have a question about the rain streaking on the turret.  Was this airbrushed in a mist from a distance so that it would run and streak, or is it painted with a fine brush?  It looks terrific!

Bill

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Sunday, May 7, 2017 12:11 AM

Getting nice and muddy... as a tank should be... Yes

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Saturday, May 6, 2017 11:06 PM

Hey thanks, Steve, and Cliff, and everyone---I somehow muffed the whole post I made last time; only half of it showed up. Jeez, I hope they don't have a limit to how long posts can be?!?

Anyhoo....let's try this again...

I drybrushed the wheels--it's still a great way to get the bolt detail to come out..tires were painted with Panzer Gray.

This is the melange of colors that I used; honestly, a lot of times I just reach for whatever's close and mix up what I need.

I also used this combination to paint the mantlet cover. I then used a bit of oil paints--Olive Green + Raw Umber--to wash the creases to impart some depth to it.

I painted up the tools with craft store light tan and a grayish metallic mix. Streaking them with Raw Umber gives them nice grain.

By the way, I also put a "grease gun" into my crewman's hands. Thanks to everyone who set me straight on this proper weapon for the era.

And then it was on to the *shudder* tracks... These AFV Club "workable" tracks have to be cut from the sprue, but they are such a soft plastic that cutting them with a flush cutter leaves a nasty nub on each one--well, TWO, actually.. it sucks. So I tried cutting them with a single-edge razor blade, which seemed to actually work well.

It takes a while to assemble them alll with those tedious connectors, but I didn't do it on the sprue the way they recommend because these tracks are so notoriously fragile (last time I used them I almost had to completely scrap them becasue they broke into so many pieces, but that maye have been because of the wash solvent, which seems to really attack the track pins). I removes them all first, every piece, and then just assembled them by hand so I didn't have to cut them off as assembled pieces and stress the track pins and their connectors.

When they were done, I spray painted them Testor's Dark Tan and then drybrushed them with a blackish Metallic Grey before painting the track blocks with Panzer Grey.

After painting the blocks, I realized that there was no way that I could reasonably leave the knockout marks so visible, so it was back to the putty, to apply small dots with a toothpick and then to carefully sand them out....another delay in the tracks..

Next, time to add some gunk and dirt. I mixed up some mud with some paint, plaster, and real sifted dirt. I then used a paint brush to just slop it on the wheels and undercarriage.

I also used the same mixture to speckle the wheels and sporckets. Use a stiff-bristle brush to do this, and practice before you try it. You have to learn the dispersion pattern of the brush you are using, or you risk it going everywhere.

While this was solidifying, I started putting down some light chipping and scratching. I first used a sponge to add light green chips to all the OD parts of the tank. Then I used Metallic Gray to put chips on the edges of the fenders and hatches. FInally, I used some tan, and then also some brown "earth" tone on the yellow parts of the fenders to show wear and degradation on those parts.

I then used a light wash of Olive Green dulled with Raw Umber to tone down the contrast a bit. You can see the darker wear on the fender area..

The oil wash also gave the base coat a slightly warmer tone.

I then painted in some metallic grey chips inside the light green ones to give a 3-D impression.

With the tracks now dry, I spattered some craft store light sand onto the track faces, both sides...

And now the scary part---I was waiting for the tracks to just disintegrate when I tried to put them on, but since I didn't use any washes or solvent-based paint on these, it seems to have really made a difference. I threaded the track through the glued-on wheels--about the only advantage to "workable" tracks that I can think of unless you aticulate the suspension--and placed the sprocket into the ends, and then carefully joined the ends with some connectors. I then used some superglue to strengthen these joints to add strength and reliability to the tracks.

I spattered the rear, and entire hull below the fenders.

One thing I DIDN'T like was the spattering being on the wheel travel inside the tracks.

I wondered if I could remove this using some kind of solvent? I wet a brush with lacquer thinner, dabbed most of it off on a tissue, and ran it over the inside of the tracks. It worked like a charm.

Next, I used some "Gray Dirt Spatter" from Adam Wilder's line to do rain marks and streaks. Thes dry a semi-gloss, so are great for simulating this kind of effect.

I also did light spattering on the fender tops and sides to tie the effect in to the hull. Wear gloves when you spatter with enamel-based products.

In order to add some depth to the plaster "mud" mix, I then used some WILDER "Dark Street Dirt Effect" and painted this on to the hull and inner wheels. I also spattered it onto the bottom hull.

Here's where I am so far----vry close to being done!

Well, that's it for now, guys! Thanks for looking in. Be watching for the completed build some time next week! :) As always, comments and questions are always welcomed! Beer

 

  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: California
Posted by SprueOne on Saturday, May 6, 2017 7:42 PM

the doog

Screwed up update, will have to report at some point. Bang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang Head

 

 

What?

What happened?

Anyone with a good car don't need to be justified - Hazel Motes

 

Iron Rails 2015 by Wayne Cassell Weekend Madness sprueone

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Saturday, May 6, 2017 12:30 PM

Funny, showed up fine on my phone this morning. I waited to fire up the laptop so I'd have a real keyboard to type on. I love the way you did the mud and dirt.

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Saturday, May 6, 2017 10:02 AM

Screwed up update, will have to report at some point. Bang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang HeadBang Head

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: On my kitchen counter top somewhere in central North Carolina.
Posted by disastermaster on Thursday, May 4, 2017 6:56 PM



Hey Karl,
 Been away from the keyboard a couple weeks or so
but yikes, look at what you've done now!
Another rabbit outta the hat!
http://www.netanimations.net/rabbithat.gif
                                    
 This is just a spectacular showing of your many talents.

                              http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b232/gluetank/Animated/th_1-Animated-Disastermaster.gif?t=1296616998

 https://i.imgur.com/LjRRaV1.png

 

 

 
  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Thursday, May 4, 2017 12:09 PM

Just wanted to point out that if anyone wants the kit it's on sale today (May 4th, 2017) at Dragon USA for $34.89 which is the cheapest I've seen it. 

Personally I think I'm going to pass, I still have way too much stuff before I even look at another AFV. 

http://www.dragonusaonline.com/item_detail.aspx?ItemCode=DRA3560

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Groton, CT
Posted by warshipguy on Sunday, April 23, 2017 7:34 AM

Karl,

That is a beautiful job!  It looks Grrrrreeeeeaaaaattt!

Rob and Stik,

I remember throughout my Navy career as a Hospital Corpsman, the entire Medical Department went from being under the Bureau of Medicine and Surgery to Navy Medical Command to the Navy Department of Medicine and Surgery and finally back to the Bureau of Medicine and Surgery.  Individual medical facilities would change from Naval Hospitals to Health Care Facilities to Primary Care Clinics to Regional Branch Clinics, all while giving the same services as always.  I always figured that some Admiral or Captain in Washington needed another Navy Commendation Medal.

At least the Navy doesn't change the names of its ships!

Bill

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Saturday, April 22, 2017 4:21 PM

Rob Gronovius
 

Yeah, I'm full of useless information. Back in the day, armor units were tought of as support and were not regimentalized. Cavalry units that eventually evolved into armor battalions did carry on some pre-WW2 lineage as did some previous infantry regiments that became armor regiments (68th Armor Regiment jumps to mind as one of the infantry regiments that became an armor regiment). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/68th_Armor_Regiment

My first battalion, 5/77 Armor had been 3/68 Armor until a couple of years before I got there. The Army does stupid stuff like that without thinking. Men who had been a part of one named unit for years get the unit name changed.

 

The United States Army- 242 years of tradition unhampered by progress Wink. I arrived at my first line unit out of OSUT and the division replacement detachment and was assigned to the TOW Platoon of a CSC, Combat Support Company, of a Mech Infantry Battalion, 3/10. That morning the battalion was re organized under the Divison 86 TO&E and CSC was no more. The TOW platoon was enlarged to a full company, E Company, my new home. CSC was disbanded with Scouts and Mortars going to HHC, and the Redeye and GSR sections returning to ADA and MI Battalions respectively. Later that year, under COHORT plans, we changed colors from 3/10 Infantry, which had a long history with the Division, into 4/6 Infantry, which had no prior association with it. But was associated with our opposite COHORT unit, 1st Armored Division in Germany. 6 months in three different units, by name only. I had not gone anywhere but on paper.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Fort Knox
Posted by Rob Gronovius on Saturday, April 22, 2017 10:01 AM

the doog
 

Wow, again, great info. I swear, I love doing these blog builds because of all the cool, arcane knowledge that you guys post; the guys who really know these things that would take you ages to find through google. Thanks for posting it, Rob. Great info for anyone who's interested in the whole numbering process and particulars of the various decades. BeerBeerBeer

 

Yeah, I'm full of useless information. Back in the day, armor units were tought of as support and were not regimentalized. Cavalry units that eventually evolved into armor battalions did carry on some pre-WW2 lineage as did some previous infantry regiments that became armor regiments (68th Armor Regiment jumps to mind as one of the infantry regiments that became an armor regiment). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/68th_Armor_Regiment

My first battalion, 5/77 Armor had been 3/68 Armor until a couple of years before I got there. The Army does stupid stuff like that without thinking. Men who had been a part of one named unit for years get the unit name changed.

  • Member since
    January 2015
Posted by Moff on Saturday, April 22, 2017 8:02 AM

Wow, that's turning out amazing! 

"Gaiety is the most outstanding feature of the Soviet Union." - Josef Stalin 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Fort Knox
Posted by Rob Gronovius on Friday, April 21, 2017 9:39 AM

stikpusher

Now that looks pretty awesome! It may not be tactical for camouflage... but those cat faced tanks sure look just plain mean! 

 

That was the reasoning; it was thought that the Chinese feared the tiger so painting tiger faces on the tanks would be a bad omen to them.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Friday, April 21, 2017 7:45 AM

Fantastic! 

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Tumwater, WA.
Posted by M. Brindos on Friday, April 21, 2017 12:38 AM

That needs to be in a movie, bursting out from some jungle! That's wicked!!

- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Friday, April 21, 2017 12:38 AM

My that's a big one.

needs little " mouse" kill marks.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    January 2015
Posted by PFJN on Thursday, April 20, 2017 10:03 PM

stikpusher

Now that looks pretty awesome! It may not be tactical for camouflage... but those cat faced tanks sure look just plain mean! 

 

Hi,

I guess if maybe you're operating in an area known to have large tigers, it could maybe be considered tactical camoflage Stick out tongue

Pat

1st Group BuildSP

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Thursday, April 20, 2017 9:18 PM

Now that looks pretty awesome! It may not be tactical for camouflage... but those cat faced tanks sure look just plain mean! 

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Thursday, April 20, 2017 7:56 PM

Hey, thanks to everyone who's following along and looking in. I have a small update; the tiger stripes are finished. I also changed my tank number to three after incorrectly decaling in an "8". Whistling

 

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Thursday, April 20, 2017 7:50 PM

Rob Gronovius

 

 
the doog

 

Rob, looks like you company was "Medium", or I would use that just to say thanks. Smile

 

 

 

By the 1980s, the US Army went to what was called the J-series MTOE as part of the Division '86 reorganization. Tank platoons went from the five tank formation (ex. A21 thru A25) to a four tank formation. With the exception of the 82nd Airborne's 3/73rd Sheridan battalion, there were no longer differentiations between between light, heavy and medium tank battalions.

The J-series MTOE also added a fourth tank company, D Co. with the three tanks swiped from each tank company (9 tanks) and an additional 5 tanks added to each battalion. Tank battalions went from 53 to 58 tanks.

The HQs and CSC (combat support companies) were combined into the HHC (Headquarters and Headquarters Company) we have today.

The US Army Combat Arms Regimental System had not taken place by the time of the Korean War. Separate numbered tank battalions were still being used.

 

Wow, again, great info. I swear, I love doing these blog builds because of all the cool, arcane knowledge that you guys post; the guys who really know these things that would take you ages to find through google. Thanks for posting it, Rob. Great info for anyone who's interested in the whole numbering process and particulars of the various decades. BeerBeerBeer

I DID change my number from 8 to 3... :) :)

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Thursday, April 20, 2017 2:32 PM

Gamera

Looking very cool Karl!!! 

Bish, do a websearch on 'tiger face sherman (or m26 etc) korean war' and you'll get piles of photos. 

 

Blimey, your not kidding. Cheers.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Thursday, April 20, 2017 11:53 AM

Looking very cool Karl!!! 

Bish, do a websearch on 'tiger face sherman (or m26 etc) korean war' and you'll get piles of photos. 

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Thursday, April 20, 2017 11:27 AM

Bish

Now thats different. So from what carlos is saying, is this based on real designs worn in Korea.

 

Yes, the examples that I gave are based off of Korean War era information and photos.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Thursday, April 20, 2017 8:19 AM

Now thats different. So from what carlos is saying, is this based on real designs worn in Korea.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.