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The Road to Bastogne

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  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: North Pole, Alaska
Posted by richs26 on Friday, February 22, 2019 4:42 PM

Exactly that for a SCR-694 (BC-1306).  Stik's photo came from a 1963 USA TM which I believe used a different radio set.

WIP:  Monogram 1/72 B-26 (Snaptite) as 73rd BS B-26, 40-1408, torpedo bomber attempt on Ryujo

Monogram 1/72 B-26 (Snaptite) as 22nd BG B-26, 7-Mile Drome, New Guinea

Minicraft 1/72 B-24D as LB-30, AL-613, "Tough Boy", 28th Composite Group

  • Member since
    September 2018
  • From: Vancouver, Washington USA
Posted by Sergeant on Saturday, February 23, 2019 1:53 AM

richs26

Exactly that for a SCR-694 (BC-1306).  Stik's photo came from a 1963 USA TM which I believe used a different radio set.

 

richs26, apparently you have confirmed the TM Stik used was dated 1963, so it would be Vietnam era not World War 2 and would have a different radio set... If that is the point you are making I agree. However, let’s not overlook the fact the picture Stik posted does not have coiled wire cables and yet I know we had coiled wire cables on radios during the Vietnam War because I saw them.

Remember the Vietnam War spanned 14 years for the United States, but the conflict began November 1, 1955. U.S. Congress declared our involvement in the war was officially from 1961 to 1975, but we know the U.S. started out as advisers. By 1964, there were 23,000 U.S. troops in Vietnam. This escalated further following the 1964 Gulf of Tonkin incident. We also know the war ended for the U.S. and it’s Allies with the fall of Saigon on April 30, 1975. My point is technology changed over that long time period.

I also see what Stik is saying... He said and I paraphrase, the coiled wire (cable) came into effect somewhere between World War 2 and the Vietnam War and I believe he is right. His point was not lost on me that I used a coiled wire that was not in use by the U.S. military until more than 20 years later. It may be a small detail, but details are what Fine Scale Modeling is all about and that’s why I believe we love this hobby. 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Saturday, February 23, 2019 10:04 AM
Yup, my point was to show the old straight cables that were in use before the coiled type came along. Especially in regards to the headset. That image was the best one that I could find.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September 2018
  • From: Vancouver, Washington USA
Posted by Sergeant on Tuesday, February 26, 2019 8:07 PM

I found what appears to be the historical event that sent Sherman tanks of the 9th Armored Division to Bastogne from Neufchateau.

The following information is an excerpt from Blood for Time:

https://warfarehistorynetwork.com/daily/wwii/blood-for-time-9th-armored-at-bastogne-and-the-battle-of-the-bulge/

The Retreat to Bastogne:

With its primary mission now canceled with the destruction of Task Force Harper, Team Booth weighed its options of either defending in place or heading for Bastogne. Lt. Col. Booth’s outposts had reported the presence of enemy armor on the Bourcy-Noville road and a platoon of the 52nd AIB discovered enemy units to the west, northwest, and south. Based upon all available information, Booth estimated that his team was up against at least one armored division. On the morning of December 19, Booth decided to move what was left of his team plus about 100 stragglers, even a few from the 106th Infantry Division, to Bastogne.

Lieutenant DeRoche, after turning five of his Shermans over to Lt. Col. Harper, led his small force toward St. Hubert where they found supplies of fuel and ammunition. After stocking up, the DeRoche force proceeded to Neufchateau where General Middleton had relocated his command post. Once in Neufchateau, DeRoche located Captain Walter M. Meier, who was busy gathering and regrouping retreating CCR men and armor. After acquiring DeRoche’s small force and a few others, Captain Meier called 9th Armored Division headquarters in Mersch and received permission to take his force into Bastogne.

Captain Meier’s force, like most of CCR, 9th Armored and 28th Infantry Division soldiers and tankers retreating from the roadblock battles, eventually made it to Bastogne. However, many other retreating soldiers never made it, having fallen to the gauntlet of sporadic enemy artillery fire, snipers, and engagements with concealed enemy infantry and tanks. Men and armor retreating into Bastogne from the battles that preceded the arrival of the 101st Airborne Division continued to stream in throughout the day with valuable information concerning German deployment and strengths.

These retreating soldiers and tankers were not, despite some postwar accounts, a bunch of dispirited, demoralized, and undisciplined panic mongers. The great majority of these men had given it their all. They came through the 101st defensive lines having had very little sleep or food for three days and in almost constant battle with an enemy that not only had the full advantage of surprise but was also far superior in numbers, the quantity and quality of its armor, and in its battle experience. The personnel of CCR, 9th Armored Division who managed to make it to Bastogne and regroup were able to assist the 101st Airborne Division by acting as either mobile emergency relief strike forces, armored support for the lightly armed paratroopers, or direct infantry augmentation to the defense line.

After the war, General Manteuffel wrote: “On the whole the delaying action of the withdrawing American Army was a success. It slowed down the German advance, though it could not prevent the pursuing German spearheads from coming within 4 km from the Meuse near Dinant without any major engagements. But the resistance by delaying actions gained the time needed to bring up their tactical reserves at the correct moment.”

  • Member since
    September 2018
  • From: Vancouver, Washington USA
Posted by Sergeant on Thursday, February 28, 2019 6:30 PM
Ready to apply Archer Fine Transfer decals. The registration number will be 20305148-S, and bumper codes are 9 [triangle] for 9th Armored Division, 149-S for 149th Armored Signal Company and on the other end of the bumper 007 which will be the vehicle number. Thanks to richs26, stikpusher and Pawel for help with this information.

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Rifle, CO. USA
Posted by M1GarandFan on Thursday, February 28, 2019 6:45 PM

The Jeep, figure and radio look excellent! Will you be applying the shovel, axe and other tools, or have the doughs stolen all of them? Can't wait to see the finished product.

  • Member since
    September 2018
  • From: Vancouver, Washington USA
Posted by Sergeant on Thursday, February 28, 2019 7:38 PM

M1GarandFan

The Jeep, figure and radio look excellent! Will you be applying the shovel, axe and other tools, or have the doughs stolen all of them? Can't wait to see the finished product.

 

Thank you M1GarandFan, yes I plan to include all the normal equipment except a tow bar. I wanted to get the decals on before I attach the more delicate items, so I don’t break something.

Harold

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Rifle, CO. USA
Posted by M1GarandFan on Thursday, February 28, 2019 8:20 PM

Yes. I understand completely. One of my biggest problems is always the assembly order which never follows the instruction sheet. About the last things I add to my tanks is the tracks, tools and radio antenna. What you're doing is working!

John

  • Member since
    September 2018
  • From: Vancouver, Washington USA
Posted by Sergeant on Monday, March 4, 2019 2:23 PM

stikpusher

Below it is a photo of a 9th Armored Division M4A3 76mm fresh out of the Engineer Camouflage Battalion paint shop. You can see the mods peculiar to the 9th in this photo [second photograph below].

  

Stik, I’m ready to start on the M4A3, but have a few questions about the 9th Armored Division camouflage, dust-shields/fenders, and T-23 turret (76mm).

1. What colors are used in this camouflage?

2. Is there netting over the camouflage, or is that netting pattern on the side of the hull in the second photograph above part of the camouflage paint?

3. In the photograph above it’s clear the camouflage paint comes down over the dust-shields/fenders. So assembly of my model requires the dust-shields/fenders to be glued on before I prime the hull... Is that correct?

4. The turret in the second photograph looks like a later T-23 with an oval loaders hatch, but the photograph I’m building the diorama to represent (first photograph) has a split loaders hatch and the 76mm cannon, so that’s how we know it’s an early T-23 turret... Is that correct?

Harold

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: North Pole, Alaska
Posted by richs26 on Monday, March 4, 2019 3:10 PM

Both photos show the split loader's hatch (2 sections) so they are both early T-23 turrets with the 76mm, and no muzzle brake with just the thread protector.  The chicken wire is over the paint.  There is also chicken wire over the front glacis.

WIP:  Monogram 1/72 B-26 (Snaptite) as 73rd BS B-26, 40-1408, torpedo bomber attempt on Ryujo

Monogram 1/72 B-26 (Snaptite) as 22nd BG B-26, 7-Mile Drome, New Guinea

Minicraft 1/72 B-24D as LB-30, AL-613, "Tough Boy", 28th Composite Group

  • Member since
    September 2018
  • From: Vancouver, Washington USA
Posted by Sergeant on Monday, March 4, 2019 3:21 PM

richs26

Both photos show the split loader's hatch (2 sections) so they are both early T-23 turrets with the 76mm, and no muzzle brake with just the thread protector.  The chicken wire is over the paint.  There is also chicken wire over the front glacis.

 

Thank you richs26... So, the solider we see in the second photograph is in the loaders hatch?

I found this picture of camouflage used by the 9th Armored Division, do you think this is accurate?

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Rifle, CO. USA
Posted by M1GarandFan on Monday, March 4, 2019 6:26 PM

Sergeant, I've got that same picture on p.63 of my Squadron Signal, WWII U.S. Sherman Tank in Action book. It purports to show the 9th's 3 color camo with black and a lighter green over the standard O.D. The matting is Sommerfield matting welded to strips on the hull. I've never tried it, but I think using some tule (available at Walmart and sewing and craft stores) would be a decent substitute for the matting. Some of the other guys here on the site may have a better solution to modeling that particular material.

  • Member since
    September 2018
  • From: Vancouver, Washington USA
Posted by Sergeant on Monday, March 4, 2019 8:36 PM

M1GarandFan

Sergeant, I've got that same picture on p.63 of my Squadron Signal, WWII U.S. Sherman Tank in Action book. It purports to show the 9th's 3 color camo with black and a lighter green over the standard O.D. The matting is Sommerfield matting welded to strips on the hull. I've never tried it, but I think using some tule (available at Walmart and sewing and craft stores) would be a decent substitute for the matting. Some of the other guys here on the site may have a better solution to modeling that particular material.

 

John thank you, for confirming the camouflage and name of the matting, which I agree with richs26 looks like chicken wire. I found some interesting examples of nylon net fabric and micro miniature expanded metal in addition to tulle that could represent Sommerfeld matting on 1/35 scale models, please see photographs below. I also calculated the opening of 1/35 scale Sommerfeld matting would be approximately 1/8" (3.175mm) or less.

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Tuesday, March 5, 2019 8:43 AM

Sarge, it looks like most of your questions here have already been answered. As for the particular shade of green applied over the OD along with the black, it is called “Light Green”. It is the same color as Interior Green used on US aircraft cockpits and today goes by the FS# 34151. 

The Army had 12 standard colors (including OD) that were supplied for use on vehicles to better blend with local conditions. In Italy, colors like Sand, Earth Yellow, or Earth Red, as well as White counter shading, were often seen on US Army vehicles. In Nothern Europe, Black was the most commonly seen color. Other colors included Forest Green, Loam, Field Drab, and Earth Brown. Many of these same colors would be incorporated into the 70’s era MERDC camo colors.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Tuesday, March 5, 2019 9:46 AM

Oh wow I had no idea about the Sommerfeld matting until now. When I saw it in photos I just assumed it was chicken wire 'liberated' from French farmers... Tongue Tied

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    January 2019
Posted by Edwin on Tuesday, March 5, 2019 10:56 AM

WOW, JUST WOW!!!

Is this a clear case of collective knowledge at work or what? Great job, gentlemen!

The finished work is gonna be a stunner, I’ll bet YesYes!

  • Member since
    September 2018
  • From: Vancouver, Washington USA
Posted by Sergeant on Tuesday, March 5, 2019 11:58 AM

stikpusher

Sarge, it looks like most of your questions here have already been answered. As for the particular shade of green applied over the OD along with the black, it is called “Light Green”. It is the same color as Interior Green used on US aircraft cockpits and today goes by the FS# 34151. 

The Army had 12 standard colors (including OD) that were supplied for use on vehicles to better blend with local conditions. In Italy, colors like Sand, Earth Yellow, or Earth Red, as well as White counter shading, were often seen on US Army vehicles. In Nothern Europe, Black was the most commonly seen color. Other colors included Forest Green, Loam, Field Drab, and Earth Brown. Many of these same colors would be incorporated into the 70’s era MERDC camo colors.

 

Carlos, thank you for the information about the light green paint and 12 standard Army colors, I never heard that before. One of my questions was answered accidentally when I went looking for material to represent Sommerfeld matting. Now I know the matting needs to go on before the dust-shields/fenders and other delicate parts so I don’t break something.

Harold

  • Member since
    September 2018
  • From: Vancouver, Washington USA
Posted by Sergeant on Tuesday, March 5, 2019 12:03 PM

Gamera

Oh wow I had no idea about the Sommerfeld matting until now. When I saw it in photos I just assumed it was chicken wire 'liberated' from French farmers... Tongue Tied

 

Gamera, you may know this already, but the Sommerfeld matting was designed by a German engineer living in Britain called Kurt Joachim Sommerfeld. The matting was originally called Sommerfeld Tracking, nicknamed Tin Lino (linoleum) and used extensively by the RAF and USAAF for creating landing strips in soggy farm land of Great Britain.

Harold

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Tuesday, March 5, 2019 12:35 PM

Sergeant

 

 
stikpusher

Sarge, it looks like most of your questions here have already been answered. As for the particular shade of green applied over the OD along with the black, it is called “Light Green”. It is the same color as Interior Green used on US aircraft cockpits and today goes by the FS# 34151. 

The Army had 12 standard colors (including OD) that were supplied for use on vehicles to better blend with local conditions. In Italy, colors like Sand, Earth Yellow, or Earth Red, as well as White counter shading, were often seen on US Army vehicles. In Nothern Europe, Black was the most commonly seen color. Other colors included Forest Green, Loam, Field Drab, and Earth Brown. Many of these same colors would be incorporated into the 70’s era MERDC camo colors.

 

 

 

Carlos, thank you for the information about the light green paint and 12 standard Army colors, I never heard that before. One of my questions was answered accidentally when I went looking for material to represent Sommerfeld matting. Now I know the matting needs to go on before the dust-shields/fenders and other delicate parts so I don’t break something.

 

Harold

 

I have a couple of books by Steve Zaloga on US Armor camouflage and markings. The colors are listed there, along with information on how they are recommended to be used. I’ll try to get more information from the books posted on here later on if you’d like.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September 2018
  • From: Vancouver, Washington USA
Posted by Sergeant on Tuesday, March 5, 2019 1:30 PM

stikpusher

 

 
Sergeant

 

 
stikpusher

Sarge, it looks like most of your questions here have already been answered. As for the particular shade of green applied over the OD along with the black, it is called “Light Green”. It is the same color as Interior Green used on US aircraft cockpits and today goes by the FS# 34151. 

The Army had 12 standard colors (including OD) that were supplied for use on vehicles to better blend with local conditions. In Italy, colors like Sand, Earth Yellow, or Earth Red, as well as White counter shading, were often seen on US Army vehicles. In Nothern Europe, Black was the most commonly seen color. Other colors included Forest Green, Loam, Field Drab, and Earth Brown. Many of these same colors would be incorporated into the 70’s era MERDC camo colors.

 

 

 

Carlos, thank you for the information about the light green paint and 12 standard Army colors, I never heard that before. One of my questions was answered accidentally when I went looking for material to represent Sommerfeld matting. Now I know the matting needs to go on before the dust-shields/fenders and other delicate parts so I don’t break something.

 

Harold

 

 

 

I have a couple of books by Steve Zaloga on US Armor camouflage and markings. The colors are listed there, along with information on how they are recommended to be used. I’ll try to get more information from the books posted on here later on if you’d like.

 

Yes please do... One question I have about the 9th Armored Division camouflage is the density of the black and light green paint. It looks like the paint was sprayed on casually without concern for how well it covered the olive drab. My thought is the colors were intended to represent the foliage and shadows in French and Belgium farm lands so a tank would blend in with the hedgerows. But then I realized most of the tanks at that time had tree branches and shrubs attached to the Sommerfeld matting, so maybe it was more of a paint availability issue or time needed to do the painting?

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Tuesday, March 5, 2019 2:17 PM

I think the quality of the paintwork is pretty much a case of the engineer battalion having to paint all the vehicles as rapidly as the could. Not to mention the weather conditions and hours of daylight available in NW Europe in the fall. This was applied in field workshops, and looked like that as a result.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September 2018
  • From: Vancouver, Washington USA
Posted by Sergeant on Tuesday, March 5, 2019 2:43 PM

stikpusher

I think the quality of the paintwork is pretty much a case of the engineer battalion having to paint all the vehicles as rapidly as the could. Not to mention the weather conditions and hours of daylight available in NW Europe in the fall. This was applied in field workshops, and looked like that as a result.

 

That makes sense, plus paint needs to be applied at a temperature above 40 or 50 degrees F. and remain above that level long enough to dry. This limitation would reduce the hours available in Autumn that a field workshop could get the painting done.

  • Member since
    September 2018
  • From: Vancouver, Washington USA
Posted by Sergeant on Thursday, March 7, 2019 8:32 PM

Sergeant

 

 
snapdragonxxx

Vallejo is my primary go to paint at is chipset accurate and is a very high quality paint with a strong pigment which means that you don't need to use much to get the right depth.

I only use other brands when I have to and when I need colours that are not in the Vallejo range. The only exclusion to this is AK's Xtreme Metal range which beats Alclad hands down and won't melt your model! That and Vallejo's Metal colour range sits and co-exists side by side on my bench and gives me a huge tonal metal colour variety.

many other brands(mission, AK etc) use scale correctness formulae quoting light reflectability, which according to what a leading ophthalmic surgeon here in the UK says is total BS as the colours we see depend on the rods and cones in our eyes and differ from person to person as well as our subconscious lightning or darkening what we see in order to bring out detail.

Vallejo can always be modulated anyway by the depth of paint you apply although this takes some practice and thinning the paint a little.

 

I love how the Jeep has turned out with the Vallejo OD and the dry transfers directly on to that paint will look great. No varnishes needed!

 

 

James

 

 

 

James, Carlos, Pawel or any members who are familiar with Archer Transfer decals I need some help. Below is a photograph of the decals that came with my Willys Jeep kit. None of them are directly related to the 9th Armored Division. I have decided to try the dry-transfer type of decals instead of the water-slide type on this project, but I am uncertain about vehicle registration numbers and bumper codes.

 

First of all is the correct registration number series and bumper codes an important detail in a diorama? If so, how do you find the right information? I have been reading this article https://olive-drab.com/od_mvg_markings.php from the Olive-Drab website which leads me to believe this subject is as confusing as the discussion of which olive drab paint or camouflage color is right for a specific time period.

The following numbers are the Archer items I selected, but I’m not sure about either the registration numbers or bumper codes: AR35048W, AR35058W and AR35066.

 

I received the Archer Fine Transfers James recommended, plus I received the AK stainless steel shakers for my Vallejo paint. Now is the time for steady hands, James said these decals stick like dog poop on a rug, so I better get it right the first time.

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Thursday, March 7, 2019 9:23 PM

You’ll be ok. I might suggest some practice on a test mule to get the feel for them before you work on the Jeep.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September 2018
  • From: Vancouver, Washington USA
Posted by Sergeant on Thursday, March 7, 2019 10:20 PM

stikpusher

You’ll be ok. I might suggest some practice on a test mule to get the feel for them before you work on the Jeep.

 

I will do that! Thanks

  • Member since
    September 2018
  • From: Vancouver, Washington USA
Posted by Sergeant on Saturday, March 9, 2019 2:44 AM

richs26

After looking at the vehicle markings site, I would mark the bumper as 9triangle-149S-unit vehicle number (made up).

 

richs26, I’ve read AR850-5 several times and can not decide if the bumper code on my Jeep should be:

9Δ - 149S - X - 10  or  9Δ - 149 - S - 10

Could you look at your reference and let me know how you think the second and third groups should look?

Thank you,
Harold

  • Member since
    November 2004
Posted by snapdragonxxx on Saturday, March 9, 2019 7:31 AM

Cut round the transfer and put in place and secure with some masking tape that will hold it then rub on applying some pressure.

For this I used a cocktail stick which I had blunted and rounded the end.

The above was done directly onto the rough coating of zimmeritt and once the paper was removed I used a cotton bud to press the transfer into the hollows. On a flat surface still use a cotton bud (dry to go over the transfer to make sure that it is firmly in place.

The finished thing...

Just looks like it has been painted on and no need for all the gloss coat, set solution, soft solution, matt coat. Rub on and go!

  • Member since
    September 2018
  • From: Vancouver, Washington USA
Posted by Sergeant on Saturday, March 9, 2019 10:46 AM

James, I’m having very good results with Archer Fine Transfers. Just clarifying some marking details like bumper code and placement of national symbols.

Harold

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Saturday, March 9, 2019 11:04 AM

Sergeant

 

 
richs26

After looking at the vehicle markings site, I would mark the bumper as 9triangle-149S-unit vehicle number (made up).

 

 

 

richs26, I’ve read AR850-5 several times and can not decide if the bumper code on my Jeep should be:

 

9Δ - 149S - X - 10  or  9Δ - 149 - S - 10

Could you look at your reference and let me know how you think the second and third groups should look?

Thank you,
Harold
 

How does the signal unit break down? TO&E wise? The X suffix is usually for sub units of division HQ that are not a separate company. When I was in LRS our bumper codes were for Divison HQ, who was our higher HQ: 40X  **** LRS ____

Division Band also used the 40X prefix. 

My educated guess says 9^ 149S on the left side... the right side, gonna have to work on that...

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September 2018
  • From: Vancouver, Washington USA
Posted by Sergeant on Saturday, March 9, 2019 11:53 AM

stikpusher

 

 
Sergeant

 

 
richs26

After looking at the vehicle markings site, I would mark the bumper as 9triangle-149S-unit vehicle number (made up).

 

 

 

richs26, I’ve read AR850-5 several times and can not decide if the bumper code on my Jeep should be:

 

9Δ - 149S - X - 10  or  9Δ - 149 - S - 10

Could you look at your reference and let me know how you think the second and third groups should look?

Thank you,
Harold
 

 

 

How does the signal unit break down? TO&E wise? The X suffix is usually for sub units of division HQ that are not a separate company. When I was in LRS our bumper codes were for Divison HQ, who was our higher HQ: 40X  **** LRS ____

Division Band also used the 40X prefix. 

My educated guess says 9^ 149S on the left side... the right side, gonna have to work on that...

 

Stik, that’s my thinking too (149S), it is the right side of bumper that has me confused.

On another subject all the reading about SCR-506, 507, 508, 509 and 510 radios for BDelph got me thinking the BC-1306 I used in my Jeep is an AM radio. However, the 149 Armored Signal Company was part of the 9th Armored Division. Did all of the Sherman tanks in that Division have FM or AM radios? If they were FM (SCR-508) then how would the 149 Armored Signal Company Jeep/radio operator communicate with those tanks on the Road to Bastogne?

One possibility; when I was in the Army the Jeep I was assigned had both AM and FM radios. They were two completely different sets using a common antenna with high and low bypass filters. The M109‘s did not have radios, but used field telephone for fire control. The radio was used to communicate with FO, HQ and other Batteries. Maybe my Jeep/radio operator from the 149th had two radios? Or maybe they simply stopped the tanks and talked to the crew? The radio in that Jeep was then used to communicate with HQ?

Harold

 

 

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