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Painting the RFM 1/35 Tiger 1 Late Production

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  • Member since
    November 2004
Posted by snapdragonxxx on Friday, January 31, 2020 6:05 PM

Don't Panic.

When it comes to building armour there are multiple levels of building from different manufacturers from beginner to expert. No matter what you choose these are only so many variations on how to build armour. the main thing is time. This is unlimited. you can take as long as you want to build it. My recent 1/32 Avro Lancaster took 3 months!

At this moment I am sort of on my bench and not on my bench as I am easing myself back from an illness over Christmas and New Year which has totally worn me out and took some very large Penicillin tablets to help me overcome a nasty chest infection and then there was some other things on the top of that.

I am also having a declutter and being run ragged by a ladyfriend into getting my life back in order!

I am just launching into Airfix's 1/24 Hellcat (2 of them) and once those are done I will be coming back to the dark side.

I am very tempted after reading this thread and contributing to it to actually do a step by step build and going into depth on my own building and painting techniques as there seems to be quite a few beginners coming onto the forums.

I don't do videos, but my photographs are very clear and concise and if you look at some of my build posts then you will get the idea of what a high end armour kit has in it and what it takes to build them.

Rule 1. Familiarise yourself with the parts and the instructions. Read them over and over until you understand the parts, the instructions and the aim of the build.

Rule 2. If there are multiple variants in the instructions then pick one right at the beginning and STICK TO IT. You can cross out parts of other variants in the instruction book as you won't need them and it will cause less confusion.

Rule 3. Make a plan on how you want to build the kit. Factor in some flexibility and use the instruction book as a guide.

Rule 4. Gather everything you will need, paints glue, sharp knives, first aid kit etc. Be prepared for anything!

Rule 5. Use the internet. Ask questions, research the subject, read reviews of the kit etc. Nobody on these forums will yell at you for asking a question.

Rule 6. When starting a section, you have to totally know and understand what you have to do. Dry fit 5 times so you understand just how the parts go on and then glue once.

Rule 7. this is where the time comes in. Don't try and do too much at once. If you still have a problem with what goes where, how or why then take photos and post!

Rule 8. Every kit, subject and genre has a learning curve and this is how you get experience.

RFM are quality kits and will give you a really good build experience. they are expensive and I wouldn't really have recommended it to a first timer. Still, saying that, you will learn a lot from going through this build and there are many people here that will help and provide pearls of wisdom and so don't be afraid to ask. With this kit, it will be about the journey you make and what you learn, NOT the mistakes you make on the way... that's part of the learning experience.

Hint: if It doesn't look like the instructions when you build a bit then it is usually wrong. Don't Panic! look at the drawings a couple of steps ahead as the assembled bit you are struggling with will be shown in the instruction step in place and then a lightbulb will go on in the head.

Getting frustrated? Go and put the kettle on. It is not going anywhere is the kit. You will probably get a lightbulb moment too!

  • Member since
    April 2018
  • From: Australia
Posted by Panzer Joe on Saturday, February 1, 2020 4:21 AM
That some good advice there. I remember my on my first model, Academy's 35(t), I glued the turret straight onto the hull :).
  • Member since
    January 2020
Posted by Motley on Sunday, February 2, 2020 1:02 AM

Thank you all for all this great advice. Yes indeed this a real learning experience. My next kit will be Tamiya or Acadamy.

I worked on the wheels today, and it took me an hour to figrure out how they were installed. I did look ahead on the instructions which helped. But damn if the instructions had a close up view of the wheels, would make life easier for the modler. and how they are staggered. I actually installed them wrong at first, watched Andy's Hobby video and I noticed mine were slightly different. Eventually figured it out.

But I learned again today.

 

  • Member since
    January 2020
Posted by Motley on Saturday, February 8, 2020 11:23 PM

Not much progress has been made. I ordered a mini drill pine vise set, and photo etching bending tool from Megahobby.

I just got that yesterday, along with a few tank kits, and other supplies. And the Acadamy Sherman, I might start building the Sherman while I take my time with the Tiger.

I am at the upper deck portion now, and I can start drilling holes. Wish me luck.

 

  • Member since
    January 2020
Posted by Motley on Sunday, February 9, 2020 7:13 AM

Well I got all the holes drilled for the deck peice. Not gonna lie it was difficult because of the hard plastic and took forever.  Too much work for "options" build, not worth it to me. 

I can understand if I have to drill 2 or 3 holes, but dang 20 holes!

What I don't understand is why I am seemingly drilling the same holes as the commander version. There was 2 holes that were different out of 20 holes I drilled.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Sunday, February 9, 2020 7:43 AM

Nice work so far. What are all the holes your drilling, are those for the tools and other items on the deck. 20 does seem a lot.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    January 2020
Posted by Motley on Sunday, February 9, 2020 9:21 PM

Bish

Nice work so far. What are all the holes your drilling, are those for the tools and other items on the deck. 20 does seem a lot.

 

 
Yes correct they are for the tools and cable tie down. My fear was drilling the wrong hole, but I guess that could be fixed with putty.
 
I ended up getting the Eduard zimmerit photo etched set off ebay. I will start installing that now, probably easier than installing after its completed.
 
Should I use superglue for all the photo etch?
  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by KnightTemplar5150 on Monday, February 10, 2020 2:01 AM

Good to see that you're still plugging away at this kit.

Before you get too carried away with drilling holes, be sure to check everything against both the parts and the instructions of the Eduard parts. Introducing aftermarket parts sometimes causes unforseen issues, so check things before you go too far.

Once you get to that sick point where you want to incorporate working photo-etched tool clamps and such, you'll appreciate why they have you drill things out. But, if you find yourself having to fill a hole, use styrene rod that's the same diameter of the drill bit you used instead of fighting the putty. Once it's glued in place, trim it down and blend it back with a little sanding.

Use CA ("Super") glue or epoxy for the PE zimmerit. I prefer the epoxy since it's mostly flat plates. It gives me a little more time to fiddle with the placement.

When it comes to the turret bits, try annealing the parts before bending the curves into the plates. It makes the job a lot simpler than gluing down one section, bending, and then gluing the next bit down. Just gently heat the part, let it cool, and bend it to fit the sides of the turret. Once you're satisfied with the fit, glue it down and your Tiger has its stripes.

  • Member since
    January 2020
Posted by Motley on Monday, February 10, 2020 2:56 AM

Thank you Knight for the tips on installing the zimmerate.

I am on Step 12, and boy its a doosie. The instructions are absolutley horrid. There are long lines for each part, with attaching like 100 parts in one step. My head hurts just looking at it.

I just got a Tamiya kit, and looked at the instructions and they are very good, with short steps, and even close ups of attached part placement, no long lines anywhere.

 

  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by GreySnake on Monday, February 10, 2020 8:07 AM
One thing that I do to help with instructions that have a lot going on in one step is use a pencil to mark which piece you’ve glued on already. It makes it more manageable at least for me and easier to keep track of what’s already been done. I’ve had a few kits that gave me a massive headache building and just took a break from working on them.
  • Member since
    May 2017
  • From: Park City, Utah
Posted by Frankenpanzer on Monday, February 10, 2020 8:28 AM

Have you tried taking a pencil and crossing off the completed steps? That's what I do with the notorious Dragon instruction sheets. 

  • Member since
    January 2020
Posted by Motley on Monday, February 10, 2020 9:35 AM

Ok thank you I will use a penci and mark off the parts I install.

Also I was watching a youtube build video and the guy mentioned putting a large lable on the sprues to help identify which sprue to look for. I was having trouble with this.

  • Member since
    January 2020
Posted by Motley on Friday, February 14, 2020 3:18 AM

Well I finished step 12. Took me 4 days. (an hour or so each night).

Still looking at all the parts left on 8 sprues. At this point its gonna be another month before I finish.

I've got like 20 hours into this thing already. When I started this I was all excited, now not so much.

Maybe this whole armor modeling thing isn't for me.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, February 14, 2020 5:08 AM

I would not get to disheartened, you have picked a detailed kit. Next time try a Tamiya and forget about PE and all that stuff.

As for the PE, i think i am correct in that you said you are useing some. If so and it includes tool clamps and the like, you could save some work and not drill all those holes. The PE lays flat on the surface and the holes are not needed, if you are useing PE clamps.

In many ways i prefer armour to aircraft. You don't have to be so fussy with seams and i find a lot more interest in armour subjects.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    January 2020
Posted by Motley on Friday, February 14, 2020 9:41 AM

Bish

I would not get to disheartened, you have picked a detailed kit. Next time try a Tamiya and forget about PE and all that stuff.

As for the PE, i think i am correct in that you said you are useing some. If so and it includes tool clamps and the like, you could save some work and not drill all those holes. The PE lays flat on the surface and the holes are not needed, if you are useing PE clamps.

In many ways i prefer armour to aircraft. You don't have to be so fussy with seams and i find a lot more interest in armour subjects.

 

 
I appreciate the encouragement. I got the Tamiya Panzer III last week. I think I will start working on that. I will still work on the Tiger, but in little steps at a time.
 
The PE I got for this is for the zimmerate. Not any clamp details or anything.
 
I would also like to try building WWII aircraft. Maybe next month for that.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, February 14, 2020 1:47 PM

The Tamiya Pz III's are nice kits. I've built the Ausf N and have the L in the stash. You should find that a lot less trouble.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    January 2020
Posted by Motley on Friday, February 14, 2020 3:25 PM

Bish

The Tamiya Pz III's are nice kits. I've built the Ausf N and have the L in the stash. You should find that a lot less trouble.

 

 
That is good to hear. Looking forward to building that with less hassel. And I now know where the drive housing goes. lol
  • Member since
    November 2004
Posted by snapdragonxxx on Friday, February 14, 2020 5:23 PM

Don't get downhearted. It doesn't matter how long it takes to build and paint your model. This is your hobby and everything is a learning experience. RFM kits can be complex ones and if you can build these then you can build anything.

As has been said above, always keep track of your build on the instructions and it doesn't matter how long a section takes. Mark off parts as they are fitted with a pencil and make notes if needed to remind yourself about painting etc. This way you are not going to get lost or miss anything. This is why I always spend a week with the instructions so I can figure out just how things go together and where they go and the best way to tackle things.

Don't rush things. walk away and have a break do a little and then go and do something else and then come back later. so long as you keep up to date with the instructions and what you have actiually done then there is no real reason to panic and the seasoned builders on here are always ready to help. Just post a photo and the question.

By the way.... Now you know why armour modelling is called "The Dark Side".

Once the two Large Hellcats are done (you can take a look on the Aircraft section) then I will be launching in to an armour build and I will do an indepth build for you. The kit maybe a bit more than you are expecting detail wise, but I am sure that you will find it interesting.

 

 

James

  • Member since
    January 2020
Posted by Motley on Saturday, February 15, 2020 5:26 AM

Thanks James I appreciate all the help with this. For step 12 I was marking all the completed parts. Parts like the tools I skipped so I can paint them seperately, then attach at final assembly.

I'm looking forward to seeing your new build.

  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by GreySnake on Saturday, February 15, 2020 8:41 AM
I’ll second Bish on the Tamiya Panzer III. Built the Ausf L version last year and it falls together pretty much.
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