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Mobelwagen Flak 43 3.7cm Complete 09-01-08

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, August 4, 2008 9:14 AM
Wow...this is nice...looks like a later Mk IV chassis as the exhaust is of a later vehicle... 
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Monday, August 4, 2008 1:29 PM

 Mansteins revenge wrote:
Wow...this is nice...looks like a later Mk IV chassis as the exhaust is of a later vehicle... 

Thanks MR, the Mobelwagens were produced right up until the war's end on new Pz IV chassis (as opposed to those sent back for repair/refit like with the Wirbelwinds and Ostwinds), so they got the same features incorporated into them as well like the later style exhausts. There are photos in Spielberger's "Panzer IV and Variants" of an early Mobelwagen in plain dunkelgelb with the earlier type "standard" Pz IV exhaust system, so both were possible depending on when they were built.

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Kincheloe Michigan
Posted by Mikeym_us on Monday, August 4, 2008 1:39 PM
 wbill76 wrote:

Stick Man, appreciate the comments! It's been an enjoyable build so far, the usual Tamiya quality on fit and engineering. If you can find one, I recommend it.

 wing_nut wrote:
Nice PE work Bill.  The LR gun looks real nice too.   I was thinking about getting the LR barrel for the 251/17 Flak 38 I have been assigned in Dupes GB.  After seeing the barrel on your gun it is a must.

The one piece brass barrel with the flash guard integrated into it certainly makes for a nice touch. Not sure if their Flak 38 barrel is the same, usually for the 2.0cm barrel other makers like Armorscale or Griffon have the suppressor separate in brass from an aluminum barrel. Either way, it definitely is a plus over the typical styrene-molded barrels for sure.

Adler's Nest (a japanese company) makes some very nice Flak38 barrels I am concidering getting quite a few of them for my WirbelWind and Flak38 mounted MoelWagen both of which will either be in autum camo or the winter schemes.

On the workbench: Dragon 1/350 scale Ticonderoga class USS BunkerHill 1/720 scale Italeri USS Harry S. Truman 1/72 scale Encore Yak-6

The 71st Tactical Fighter Squadron the only Squadron to get an Air to Air kill and an Air to Ground kill in the same week with only a F-15   http://photobucket.com/albums/v332/Mikeym_us/

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Bournemouth UK
Posted by Luftwoller on Monday, August 4, 2008 1:59 PM

Wow, how come im always last to the party. This build is great Bill. I just love your photo blog and quality write up. Not long now by the looks of it. Any ideas on paint yet?

...Guy

..'Your an embarrassment to the human genus, makes me ashamed to call myself Homo'.
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Monday, August 4, 2008 2:03 PM
 Luftwoller wrote:

Wow, how come im always last to the party. This build is great Bill. I just love your photo blog and quality write up. Not long now by the looks of it. Any ideas on paint yet?

...Guy

Thanks Guy, getting closer at least! Paint scheme will be three-tone worm pattern to take advantage of the big slab sides.

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Kincheloe Michigan
Posted by Mikeym_us on Monday, August 4, 2008 5:45 PM
 wbill76 wrote:
 Luftwoller wrote:

Wow, how come im always last to the party. This build is great Bill. I just love your photo blog and quality write up. Not long now by the looks of it. Any ideas on paint yet?

...Guy

Thanks Guy, getting closer at least! Paint scheme will be three-tone worm pattern to take advantage of the big slab sides.

Now it would also be nice if there was a crew set to populate the Flak43 and also a set of metal 37mm ammo magazines this puppy would be ready for any diorama setting.

On the workbench: Dragon 1/350 scale Ticonderoga class USS BunkerHill 1/720 scale Italeri USS Harry S. Truman 1/72 scale Encore Yak-6

The 71st Tactical Fighter Squadron the only Squadron to get an Air to Air kill and an Air to Ground kill in the same week with only a F-15   http://photobucket.com/albums/v332/Mikeym_us/

  • Member since
    June 2005
  • From: Indiana U.S.A.
Posted by Panther F on Friday, August 8, 2008 6:55 PM
I hope to see more of this soon!  Big Smile [:D]
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Saturday, August 9, 2008 10:48 AM

 Panther F wrote:
I hope to see more of this soon!  Big Smile [:D]

The weekend is here, so an update will be forthcoming either today or tomorrow depending. Wink [;)]

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: in the tank factory in my basement
Posted by biffa on Saturday, August 9, 2008 12:22 PM

Heres a nice one to catch up on, great work Bill this kit has been on my ebay list for some time now i may step it up a little i really love the upgrades you have done Thumbs Up [tup]

Ron g.
  • Member since
    May 2007
Posted by Specter on Saturday, August 9, 2008 4:25 PM
Really looking good BillThumbs Up [tup]
Seth
  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Dublin Rep Of Ireland
Posted by terry35 on Saturday, August 9, 2008 5:30 PM

Thats going to be a beauty Bill. Can't wait to see some paint on it.

Terry.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Saturday, August 9, 2008 11:31 PM

Thanks Ron, glad to see you've returned safe-and-sound from your Caribbean get-away! Wink [;)]

Terry, thanks for the comments! Spent the day today working on the gun shield and the spent shell basket, all that's left before paint now is putting on the various tool brackets on the fenders and such. That means painting is likely for next weekend depending. Thumbs Up [tup]

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, August 10, 2008 11:04 PM

After much back and forth comparing the pros and cons of the LR and Eduard PE sets for the gun shield, I ultimately decided in favor of the Eduard shield. While both required soldering to assemble, the Eduard set required far less although what was required did involve some very tricky joins to produce the desired result. I also realized that the LR shield was designed with the towed position in mind vs. deployed or on a vehicle and didn't easily allow for things like the small gunner's scope doors to be opened, a big negative for this particular project. I don't do a lot of soldering for the most part, but I keep a Radio Shack variable 20/40w iron handy along with solder, flux, and a "helping hands" set of clamps for when I do need it. After a couple of hours of careful work with the solder and bending the various angles, the shield was ready.

With the exterior completed, next up was adding all the interior side detail. This involved quite a few extra pieces from the Eduard set, all attached using Gator Glue into their various positions. I used one of the locking arms from the Tamiya kit and one from the LR kit as only one of the LR arms was long enough to do the job.

After numerous test fits, I used CA gel to attach the shield to the base of the gun and then installed the doors for the gunner's sight in the open position.

To round things out with the gun, I assembled the LR styrene parts for the spent shell basket and used the LR parts for the mesh as it had a finer pattern vs. what was supplied in the Eduard set. Ironically, these are the only major parts of PE from the LR kit that I ended up using. All of the pieces fit as designed and only the larger rectangular piece needed to be annealed to get it to fit to shape. Annealing something delicate like this takes extra care and I accomplished this by holding it above the flame on my kitchen stove burner so it would heat up but didn't put it directly into the flame. Delicate pieces that heat up too quickly can incinerate, a lesson I've learned the hard way in the past and was sure not to repeat this time around. I used liquid glue and the handle of a paint brush to carefully shape and attach the screens.

With that taken care of, the final task before painting could begin was to install all the various tools and clamps/hardware. I'd left this off until this stage to minimize the amount of handling and potential for breakage. I started first with the hull front, installing the jack, wire cutters, towing clevises, and the axe. Putty was required to fill in the mount holes and careful scraping away of the tread plate pattern to provide a smooth surface for the metal parts to bond to.

The right rear fender also got some attention with the installation of the hex wrench and the idler tensioning wrenches. The tensioning wrenches as originally supplied by Tamiya had no visible means of support or attachment, so the Eduard set helped tremendously here.

To round out the day's activity, I also installed the pry bar for the left fender and the fire extinguisher. The rear engine deck also received the pick axe

Weather permitting, painting should start next week!

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Sunday, August 10, 2008 11:11 PM

You're a brave man, Bill, taking up that soldering iron! I applaud your work there; it looks tight!

What a great looking model in the raw! Should look delicious with a coat of DY on it!  

  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: N.H.
Posted by panzerguy on Sunday, August 10, 2008 11:33 PM

 

  Hey Bill once again an awsume wip of a very interesting subject.   

   Love the PE. The idea of soldering parts that small , I just dont know if I could do it!

   One question, would this be a veh. that originaly had the quad 2 cm Flak on it. 

"Happiness is a belt fed weapon"

  • Member since
    September 2007
  • From: Relocating
Posted by Mobious on Monday, August 11, 2008 4:12 AM

 Hello wbill76,

 The gun shield looks like a lot of detail soldering, but well worth the effort. The spent round basket is very detailed and looks the part. A good looking WIP and will be looking forward to the paint.

 Best Regards,

"It's a problem of applied physics" Roy Brown

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Bournemouth UK
Posted by Luftwoller on Monday, August 11, 2008 5:45 AM

A simple trick to annealing brass is to wipe a bit of normal, common or garden house soap on the piece to be annealed. Then hold the flame to the other side. When the soap turns black. Its done.

I thank you.

...Guy

..'Your an embarrassment to the human genus, makes me ashamed to call myself Homo'.
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Monday, August 11, 2008 8:39 AM
 the doog wrote:

You're a brave man, Bill, taking up that soldering iron! I applaud your work there; it looks tight!

What a great looking model in the raw! Should look delicious with a coat of DY on it!  

Thanks doog, soldering can be intimidating but the neat thing about it is that, if you screw-up, it's very easy to "undo" and start over. This particular soldering job was complicated in that the angled step on the shield was a separate piece and the rest of it was all one single piece. That meant all the facets had to be bent just so for it to work, then they had to be mated up and soldered...couldn't have done it without the "helping hands", definitely required that extra pair! Laugh [(-D]

 panzerguy wrote:
   Hey Bill once again an awsume wip of a very interesting subject.   

   Love the PE. The idea of soldering parts that small , I just dont know if I could do it!

   One question, would this be a veh. that originaly had the quad 2 cm Flak on it.

Panzerguy, appreciate the comments! I didn't solder everything (there are those out there who do though and my hat's off to them!), only the one angled piece. There are some things that can only be joined by soldering but once you take the plunge, it's not as hard as it looks, just needs patience and familiarity with the right tools/equipment.

On your other question, the Mobelwagen was originally intended to mount the quad 2.0cm Flakvierling but only the one prototype was built. Tests determined that the heavier punch and better altitude performance of the 3.7cm was needed and it was adopted instead as the production variant.

Mobious,

Thanks for the comments! Thumbs Up [tup]

 Luftwoller wrote:
A simple trick to annealing brass is to wipe a bit of normal, common or garden house soap on the piece to be annealed. Then hold the flame to the other side. When the soap turns black. Its done.

I thank you.

...Guy

Guy, that's a great tip, will have to try it out sometime. For those who anneal with a candle flame or other low-heat source, that would be an excellent trip-wire method to use. I normally just use a pair of locking tweezers and the gas flame on the stove, heat it up until it's cherry red (doesn't take long, couple seconds normally), then pull it out and voila! annealed.

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Piscataway, NJ!
Posted by wing_nut on Monday, August 11, 2008 9:11 AM

The shield looks great. One complex little bugger.

 

Marc  

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, August 11, 2008 9:41 AM
Wow, you have raised the bar on your work with the gun shield....outstanding work....
  • Member since
    June 2007
Posted by squeakie on Monday, August 11, 2008 11:16 AM
 Luftwoller wrote:

A simple trick to annealing brass is to wipe a bit of normal, common or garden house soap on the piece to be annealed. Then hold the flame to the other side. When the soap turns black. Its done.

I thank you.

...Guy

a very accurate way to anneal brass is to goto a welding supply house and buy a "temp stick" set for 400 degrees(f). Looks like a crayon, and when it melts your done.

gary

  • Member since
    August 2007
  • From: The Plains of Kansas
Posted by doc-hm3 on Monday, August 11, 2008 11:27 AM
Bill, outstanding work! Your attention to detail is... well it's... where's the words? Phenominal!Bow [bow]

All gave some and some gave all.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Monday, August 11, 2008 6:00 PM
WN, MR, Doc, thanks as always for the kind words and interest.
  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: in the tank factory in my basement
Posted by biffa on Monday, August 11, 2008 7:59 PM
Super job on the gun shield Bill i have yet to try soldering but i guess its just a matter of time i certainly like the results  
Ron g.
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Monday, August 11, 2008 8:38 PM
Thanks Ron, I ended up taking the plunge a while back when working on a Pz IV turret with schurzen. It's great for doing things like fenders or parts that have a visible metal join that don't have much surface area for CA or other glues to grab onto. I always have to remember to use a heat sink clamp though and to of course avoid the temptation to hold things together with my fingers! Shock [:O]
  • Member since
    May 2007
Posted by Specter on Tuesday, August 12, 2008 9:10 AM
Did you have to do anything special to get the gun to fit in the hull or did everything just go together? The gun looks great by the way.
Seth
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Tuesday, August 12, 2008 6:14 PM

 Specter wrote:
Did you have to do anything special to get the gun to fit in the hull or did everything just go together? The gun looks great by the way.

Specter,

The design of the base by LR is an exact copy of the Tamiya parts so no modification was required for it to fit. The only thing that is different is the diamater of the post, it's smaller on the LR part, so it doesn't fit into the polycap tightly and has a bit of wiggle room. That means it will have to be glued into a fixed position once it's painted instead of being able to rotate. Otherwise it was a smooth drop-fit. I actually thought I might have to do more work with it originally but the LR design is so close to the Tamiya parts, I believe they must have used the same plans/molds and just upgraded some of the details to achieve a better standard.  

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Kincheloe Michigan
Posted by Mikeym_us on Tuesday, August 12, 2008 7:17 PM
if the LionRoar kit is an "exact" copy of the Tamiya Flak43 then shouldn't the Tamiya base of the Flak43 fit onto the guns base?

On the workbench: Dragon 1/350 scale Ticonderoga class USS BunkerHill 1/720 scale Italeri USS Harry S. Truman 1/72 scale Encore Yak-6

The 71st Tactical Fighter Squadron the only Squadron to get an Air to Air kill and an Air to Ground kill in the same week with only a F-15   http://photobucket.com/albums/v332/Mikeym_us/

  • Member since
    November 2006
  • From: Coastal Maine
Posted by dupes on Wednesday, August 13, 2008 10:02 AM

Bill - I've been pretty spotty on the forums of late (summer business tends to take away a lot of my forum time, regrettably), and have missed this build up until now - very nice!

Question for you about the "annealing" process - what benefit does it have in the PE arena? I know that annealing brass for other applications is supposed to make it stronger - but what does it do here? Is it necessary because of the soldering you're using?

Now I really want to try soldering some PE parts...heheh. Mischief [:-,]

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Bournemouth UK
Posted by Luftwoller on Wednesday, August 13, 2008 11:08 AM

Anealing, your Lycraliness, softens the metal. Enabling it to become more maleable. (Bend more easily without snapping after 2 or 3 bends back and forth). As for the armor world. A good example would be say the front fender of a tank. Aneal the thing then you can model damage a lot more finely and lovelier.

...Guy

..'Your an embarrassment to the human genus, makes me ashamed to call myself Homo'.
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