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MCW finishes black texture lacquer

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  • Member since
    June 2009
MCW finishes black texture lacquer
Posted by jimbot58 on Saturday, February 10, 2024 12:09 PM

Hi!

I wonder who has experience with this product? I ordered some of it a few months ago and after what seemed a very long holiday delay, finally arrived in January. I was anxious to try it so I grabbed a car body and shot the roof. I found it a little difficult to spray with the particles that gave it texture, but managed a fairly good effect.

Now looking back, the body of the Chevelle I picked as a "test" is not going to have a vinyl roof. Since this material is a lacquer, it it removagle? I have used all the usual concoctions for removing paint beffor, such as Simple Green, Purple Power, Blech Wite, and even brake fluid with variod degrees of sucess. One thing I will never use again, (if it is even still available) is Testors Easy lift off. That cr*p actually disolved parts of an aircraft I was working on, turning the parts soft and spongy.

I tried sanding on the finish and it a very tough and durable paint! Good for the paint, not so good for me!

Any advice before I try some of the above chemicals?

Thanks

*******

On my workbench now:

 

Fujimi F-4K Phantom "Yellow Bird" and Zvezda Su-27SM Flanker


  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Saturday, February 10, 2024 3:06 PM

Although I haven't tried it with that exact paint yet, isopropyl alcohol should remove that.  You'll just need to put it in a container that you can submerge the car body in.  Just soak it in there for a day or two and that should loosen it.  Then what I usually use is a cheap electric toothbrush to scrub it all off with.  If it doesn't work, that alcohol isn't going to do a thing to the plastic like many other chemicals will.  I recently used isopropyl alcohol on a car body that was primed with Tamiya lacquer-based primer, base-coated with MCW lacquer, painted with MCW enamel, and then clear-coated with MRP 4K clear.  All paints were fully cured (with MCWs hardener having been used in the enamel), and there was even some MRP lacquers and Testors enamels that were used on some of the details.  It removed all of it, right down to the bare plastic.  I use 99% isopropyl that I get from an aviation supply warehouse, but the 91% you can get at Walmart works just as well...just takes a tiny bit longer to do its job.  Never been a fan of using super alkaline cleaners on plastic, because those will damage the plastic...maybe not visibly, but, structurally, it will never be the same again.  Alcohol is safe.

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

  • Member since
    June 2009
Posted by jimbot58 on Saturday, February 10, 2024 11:02 PM

Eaglecash867

Although I haven't tried it with that exact paint yet, isopropyl alcohol should remove that.  You'll just need to put it in a container that you can submerge the car body in.  Just soak it in there for a day or two and that should loosen it.  Then what I usually use is a cheap electric toothbrush to scrub it all off with.  If it doesn't work, that alcohol isn't going to do a thing to the plastic like many other chemicals will.  I recently used isopropyl alcohol on a car body that was primed with Tamiya lacquer-based primer, base-coated with MCW lacquer, painted with MCW enamel, and then clear-coated with MRP 4K clear.  All paints were fully cured (with MCWs hardener having been used in the enamel), and there was even some MRP lacquers and Testors enamels that were used on some of the details.  It removed all of it, right down to the bare plastic.  I use 99% isopropyl that I get from an aviation supply warehouse, but the 91% you can get at Walmart works just as well...just takes a tiny bit longer to do its job.  Never been a fan of using super alkaline cleaners on plastic, because those will damage the plastic...maybe not visibly, but, structurally, it will never be the same again.  Alcohol is safe.

 

Thanks! I actually just ordered some 99% isopropyl alcohol from Amazon as I intend to use it to clean some electronics. Guess I will need more, although not cheap! Maybe I'll give the walmart stuff first crack at it.

 

Thanks again

 

*******

On my workbench now:

 

Fujimi F-4K Phantom "Yellow Bird" and Zvezda Su-27SM Flanker


  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Sunday, February 11, 2024 6:31 AM

jimbot58
Thanks! I actually just ordered some 99% isopropyl alcohol from Amazon as I intend to use it to clean some electronics. Guess I will need more, although not cheap! Maybe I'll give the walmart stuff first crack at it.   Thanks again

No problem!  Its definitely not cheap, but you can re-use it after it becomes dirty with stripped paint.  I just put a couple of coffee filters in a funnel and filter the alcohol through that setup.  It comes out almost completely clean on the other end.  Use latex gloves when you handle the stuff too.  It'll pull all of the moisture out of your skin if you don't.  And don't forget the cheap electric toothbrush.  Its a critical component of the process, and you'll find it has lots of other uses for your modeling.  They're great at dislodging sanding/scraping dust that compressed air can't get rid of.  I also use mine with a paste made with Comet and water for surface prep on large parts to give paint a rough enough surface to get a better grip on...while not leaving scratches.

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Roanoke, Virginia
Posted by BigJim on Thursday, February 15, 2024 10:05 PM

jimbot58
Since this material is a lacquer, it it removagle?


Did you use the MCW primer?

Lacquer does not like plastic and will eat into it to varying degrees. Back when I was using Floquil paints (a lacquer), you needed to use a sealer or barrier to protect the plastic from the lacquer. Floquil made just that, and it was called "Barrier". You sprayed the Barrier on first, then your primer, then color and all was well.

I found out on one car that I messed the paint up on that when I went to strip the paint off, the paint came off fairly easy on the outside of the body where I had sprayed the Barrier. But on the inside of the body where I did not spray the Barrier, the paint did not fully come off completely, leaving a rough area, because the paint had eaten into the plastic. Lesson learned!

I now use MCW lacquer based paints and I like them. I use the MCW primer and by doing so, I have yet to notice the color layer attack the plastic. Although I haven't neeeded to strip a model after using these paints, I am going to guess that if you use the MCW primer you should be able to cleanly strip the paint from the model.

  • Member since
    June 2009
Posted by jimbot58 on Sunday, February 25, 2024 2:50 PM

BigJim

 

 
jimbot58
Since this material is a lacquer, it it removagle?

 


Did you use the MCW primer?

 

Lacquer does not like plastic and will eat into it to varying degrees. Back when I was using Floquil paints (a lacquer), you needed to use a sealer or barrier to protect the plastic from the lacquer. Floquil made just that, and it was called "Barrier". You sprayed the Barrier on first, then your primer, then color and all was well.

I found out on one car that I messed the paint up on that when I went to strip the paint off, the paint came off fairly easy on the outside of the body where I had sprayed the Barrier. But on the inside of the body where I did not spray the Barrier, the paint did not fully come off completely, leaving a rough area, because the paint had eaten into the plastic. Lesson learned!

I now use MCW lacquer based paints and I like them. I use the MCW primer and by doing so, I have yet to notice the color layer attack the plastic. Although I haven't neeeded to strip a model after using these paints, I am going to guess that if you use the MCW primer you should be able to cleanly strip the paint from the model.

 

An update:

I did not use the MCW primer! I was in a hurry to test out the paint and did my test run. The alchohol did absolutely nothing to the paint and it was in the tub for over a week! (I forgot about my experiment!). I then tried brake fluid with zero results as well. I am trying some Super Clean now, and I will see where that takes me. I'm going to order some of the primer for my real project and this body/model may have to stay as a vinyl top or I may sand off the texture mechanically.

*******

On my workbench now:

 

Fujimi F-4K Phantom "Yellow Bird" and Zvezda Su-27SM Flanker


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