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Lola T-70 MkIII [FINISHED!]

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  • Member since
    June 2008
Posted by lewbud on Thursday, November 26, 2020 9:42 AM

Scale-Master

 

 
lewbud

The four L shaped pieces below the distributor assembly, are they holddowns for the distributor cap?

 

 

 
Yes, as stated in the post they are the hold down clamps.
 

 

Forest for the trees kind of thing.  You've mentioned several times that you're using parts off your car, what car is it?

Buddy- Those who say there are no stupid questions have never worked in customer service.

  • Member since
    June 2014
Posted by BrandonK on Wednesday, November 25, 2020 12:47 PM

I don't know if the world has enough popcorn for me to sit and watch all this. Super neat work and detail like always. Amazing stuff.

BK

On the bench:

A lot !! And I mean A LOT!!

2024 Kits on deck / in process / completed   

                         14 / 5 / 2  

                              Tongue Tied

  • Member since
    October 2020
Posted by Scale-Master on Wednesday, November 25, 2020 10:38 AM
Assembled scratch-built HEI distributor.  I'll add the tach and power wires later, the plugs for them are already on it.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    October 2020
Posted by Scale-Master on Wednesday, November 25, 2020 9:57 AM

lewbud

The four L shaped pieces below the distributor assembly, are they holddowns for the distributor cap?

 
Yes, as stated in the post they are the hold down clamps.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    June 2008
Posted by lewbud on Wednesday, November 25, 2020 1:41 AM

The four L shaped pieces below the distributor assembly, are they holddowns for the distributor cap?

Buddy- Those who say there are no stupid questions have never worked in customer service.

  • Member since
    October 2020
Posted by Scale-Master on Tuesday, November 24, 2020 9:54 AM
Painted cap ready to install.
Hold down clamps made of nickle wire.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    October 2020
Posted by Scale-Master on Monday, November 23, 2020 10:05 AM
The distributor base was machined from aluminum.  The cap is a cast resin copy.

 

 

Distributor base and vacuum advance canister.

 

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    October 2020
Posted by Scale-Master on Sunday, November 22, 2020 11:01 AM
The distributor will be an OEM GM item too; a recurved HEI unit from an L82, (like on my real car).
I designed the cap and coil in SolidWorks. 
The electrical connection plugs will be grown on it too, but I won't be using the ring that locks the plug boots in place, it's a pain in real life.
Knowing the inside would probably not grow as clean as needed to fit to the aluminum distributor base I grew a jig with it to hold the cap so it could be machined to fit.  Worked like a charm too.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    October 2020
Posted by Scale-Master on Saturday, November 21, 2020 11:06 AM
I machined the breather can from aluminum.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    October 2020
Posted by Scale-Master on Friday, November 20, 2020 11:15 AM
Finished oil filter.  I milled out the mounting location of the block so the filter sits into it instead of flush on it.  Made a decal for the label.   I date my filters when I install them.  Taking a guess on this one…

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    October 2020
Posted by Scale-Master on Thursday, November 19, 2020 10:56 AM
Oil filter machined from resin stock.  It will be a Delco PF1218.  (More parts off my real car…)

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    October 2020
Posted by Scale-Master on Wednesday, November 18, 2020 9:27 AM
I made the timing tab out of sheet styrene. While I like brass, some parts are just easier to make with softer materials.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    June 2008
Posted by lewbud on Tuesday, November 17, 2020 8:43 PM

I can see how you built the starter bracket out of one piece of brass, were you able to do the same with the timing mark indicator?  Was wondering about the holes in the starter body, but didn't see the 1/12 Phillips head screws coming. 

Buddy- Those who say there are no stupid questions have never worked in customer service.

  • Member since
    October 2020
Posted by Scale-Master on Tuesday, November 17, 2020 11:11 AM
I machined the mounting hardware from aluminum.  Also note the Philips heads in the starter case.  I'll make the electrical connectors later.  For now the starter is done.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    October 2020
Posted by Scale-Master on Sunday, November 15, 2020 1:50 PM
The front starter bracket, more brass, formed from one piece.  I used solder to make the fillet as it is a stamped steel piece on the real engine.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    October 2020
Posted by Scale-Master on Friday, November 13, 2020 11:29 AM
The Solenoid.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    October 2020
Posted by Scale-Master on Thursday, November 12, 2020 7:57 PM

Some of it may be hidden, but I'd rather have that than leave something off or skimp on the detail and find out later it would have been visible.  And yes, I'll have the photos...

No 3D printing for this part, all "old school" fabication. I milled that piece from raw stock, and turned the front piece from alumnum rod.  Brass tubing measured out correctly for the body so I soldered those parts together and finished it on the lathe.  I like to work with metal for it's strength and often the material doesn't need paint.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    June 2008
Posted by lewbud on Thursday, November 12, 2020 6:50 PM

I have a feeling a lot of the work you are doing won't be seen, but that's okay because you will know it's there.  A couple more questions.  Is the end of the starter where the solenoid is 3D printed?  Why the use of brass and aluminum on the starter?

Buddy- Those who say there are no stupid questions have never worked in customer service.

  • Member since
    October 2020
Posted by Scale-Master on Thursday, November 12, 2020 2:25 PM
This will be the starter.  I have a real one on my bench to copy.  Machined from brass and aluminum.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    October 2020
Posted by Scale-Master on Thursday, November 12, 2020 9:50 AM

That's true, I should have shot it on a piece of white paper as I'm doing for other small parts now.  (Three of them will fit on my pinky fingernail.)  It will show up against the orange engine.  Whether it will be visible on the finished project remains to be seen...

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    June 2008
Posted by lewbud on Wednesday, November 11, 2020 9:40 PM

That's a detail most wouldn't have thought of.  Be easier to see if it was on a different surface.

Buddy- Those who say there are no stupid questions have never worked in customer service.

  • Member since
    October 2020
Posted by Scale-Master on Wednesday, November 11, 2020 9:59 AM
I made a new "era correct" timing tab to bolt onto the timing cover.  I still need to add the markings.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    October 2020
Posted by Scale-Master on Sunday, November 8, 2020 9:00 PM
The block got a new brass dipstick channel. 
The dipstick tube is stainless steel.
And the (removable) dipstick is nickel and brass.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    October 2020
Posted by Scale-Master on Saturday, November 7, 2020 9:41 PM

lewbud

It is entirely possible that we did, but honestly I don't recall.  I do remember a couple of your models though.

 

That's nice to hear, thanks.  Yeah, I had a few models entered there since we drove (vs fly).  I met a lot of people that weekend, but I'm better with faces than names, and that's not much help here, or now... 

The show was memorable and an obvious favorite for me; winning the Judges Grand Best of Show with a car there... 

My Dad won in '69 so it is the only time a father and then son have won the award.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    June 2008
Posted by lewbud on Saturday, November 7, 2020 7:27 PM

It is entirely possible that we did, but honestly I don't recall.  I do remember a couple of your models though.

Buddy- Those who say there are no stupid questions have never worked in customer service.

  • Member since
    October 2020
Posted by Scale-Master on Saturday, November 7, 2020 6:19 PM

lewbud

I was wondering if you were going to machine those or cast them.  I remember seeing your yellow Caterham in the magazines, but didn't remember it being scratchbuilt.  I thought it was a continuation of the series of Tamiya Lotus's that you did.  I did get to see your Lotus at the Nats in OKC and was amazed by your work.

 

Even at the few shows I took it to people asked how I "converted" the scratch-built one to left hand drive.  I don't think some people read or listen that well sometimes.

There are also the two yellow JPE Caterhams I built using Tamiya kits as the base almost 20 years ago.  (I gave one to Mr. Tamiya after the first one earned me a trip to Japan at the '01 TamiyaCon.)

Did we meet at the '03 IPMS Nats in OK?

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    June 2008
Posted by lewbud on Saturday, November 7, 2020 11:33 AM

I was wondering if you were going to machine those or cast them.  I remember seeing your yellow Caterham in the magazines, but didn't remember it being scratchbuilt.  I thought it was a continuation of the series of Tamiya Lotus's that you did.  I did get to see your Lotus at the Nats in OKC and was amazed by your work.

Buddy- Those who say there are no stupid questions have never worked in customer service.

  • Member since
    October 2020
Posted by Scale-Master on Friday, November 6, 2020 11:11 AM
I designed the intake horns in SolidWorks and printed the master, then cast copies in resin.
The one in the foreground is a 3D master.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Thursday, November 5, 2020 11:53 AM

Well Said:

        I think you have made some very good points. When I built models on Commission the folks around me thought I was Nuts! I mean c'mon a real working hydraulic system in 1/8 scale? That's what the client needed. The worse part of that was using R.C. it had to fail at a critical point. In front of a Jury!

        After five months they got what they asked for! The thing worked just like the real one. Then, Failed like the real one! That was for me the pinnacle of my career. I have done what you have done. Looking back at my builds, I just didn't realize it til now.

 How sad that I don't have space for even a small 8'x8' shop now, much less, anything larger. No place to put the mill, Even if it still worked. it's been packed up for so long I believe it may not perform as it used to. And then the cutters. Heaven knows where they are.

      You know what though? You have re-kindled my memories and in some ways dormant skills .Thank You So Much. I am going to follow this build til you get done and have a flat tire on your inaugeral drive LOL.LOL.

  • Member since
    October 2020
Posted by Scale-Master on Thursday, November 5, 2020 11:43 AM

lewbud
  
A couple of more questions for you. I've noticed that when you mocked up your suspension (and other parts) that there were no nuts or bolts yet.  Do you use the nuts and bolts that are commercially available or will you make your own?  The second regards the parts you grow on the printer. Why the use of a translucent material?  Does it give better detail than a more opaque material?  The reason I ask is that while it's cool seeing the part as it comes from the printer, it's hard to see the detail you've designed into the part until it's been painted.  Also, do you worry about the growth lines or does your printer or the commercial printing company you use print layers fine enough that you don't have to clean them up? The carbs look great.  

  

 

 

I answered these out of sequence since the answers to the second post also were also relevent to the prior.

Yes, I make all my own hardware.  But during the mock-up stage I'll sometimes use phillip head or other out of scale fasteners that are easier to install and remove.  They are discarded during final assembly for the more accurate looking parts I'll make.

 

The printer came with the translucent resin material.  Frankly I don't care for it.  It's very brittle.  It's my understanding that the resins for my printer yield the same results whether clear or opaque.  Since I'm primarily using them as masters for cast parts I'll use up what I have before changing resins.

 

There are grow lines, but the hight of the print layers can be adjusted.  It's a trade off as it takes longer to grow finer parts and there are limitiations too.  Also oreintaion of the parts is important to hide the lines. 

The parts Fraxional grew for me were done at a higher resulotion than I use most of the time.  Very little clean-up was required, mosty just addressing support points (like cleaning up an injection molded part where it was attached to the sprue).

I think I have found an acceptable balance of resolution knowing how much will be filled in by paint without losing details.  Sometimes there is a good amount of hand and/or machine finishing reqired, but I design & compensate that into the part before it is grown.

 

And thanks!

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

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