Model T 1913 Speedster WIP ( Done 4/30/22)

Dodgy

Well Bako, I've read right through this thread and to say I'm impressed with the build is a vast understatement. Your attention to detail and painting skills are amazing. Between you and Mustang the pair of you will have me attempting a car model yet, but with nowhere near yours and Mustang's skill.

As a funny coincidence, I actually have an ignition coil for this car. Picked it up years ago in a junk shop and purchased it because it looked old and cool. I didn't know what it was untill I read this thread.

Ferg

 

Hey Ferg, you need to do a build on that space project of yours. Now that would be cool. But if you want to build a car, jump in, the water is fine!

Thanks for the kudos but Mustang Joe is way ahead of me. 

That is funny about the ignition coil. Small world hey? 

mustang1989

I just knew there had to be a thread on this bad boy and whadday know.......here it is. Gonna be going back through this to get me a good look at what's been going on.

 

Hey Joe, you are the person that motivated me to start this thread. 

I just knew there had to be a thread on this bad boy and whadday know.......here it is. Gonna be going back through this to get me a good look at what's been going on.

Well Bako, I've read right through this thread and to say I'm impressed with the build is a vast understatement. Your attention to detail and painting skills are amazing. Between you and Mustang the pair of you will have me attempting a car model yet, but with nowhere near yours and Mustang's skill.

As a funny coincidence, I actually have an ignition coil for this car. Picked it up years ago in a junk shop and purchased it because it looked old and cool. I didn't know what it was untill I read this thread.

Ferg

patrick206

Hi, Steve -

Well now, this is one fine example of craftsmanship and skill. I'm not overstating when I say I was really impressed, when I saw the way you handled painting the stripes on the fenders and the painting of the wheels. Very well done and realistic.

When I encountered the raised ridge painting task, I used tape for the straight runs and Metal Foil for the curved ends. It was easy enough 40-50 years ago, now at 81 and shaky I couldn't begin to do the rounded cutting of the foil edges. 

I'm really enjoying following this one, I'm sure it'll be a right beauty when done. Thanks for the post, details and photos. Cheers.

Patrick

 

 

Hey there Patrick, nice to hear from you. And you are too kind sir. Thank you...

I like your idea of using foil. A steady hand could have made quicker work than how I masked it. Unfortunately, for me, a steady hand is probably not part of my repertoire. 

Thanks for enjoying my thread. I was starting to wonder if maybe I am overdoing it with the updates and with the detail that I post. Knowing that there is at least one person enjoying it with with me, it's enough for me to keep going. Thanks for appreciating my effort!

More to come... I hope. 

Hi, Steve -

Well now, this is one fine example of craftsmanship and skill. I'm not overstating when I say I was really impressed, when I saw the way you handled painting the stripes on the fenders and the painting of the wheels. Very well done and realistic.

When I encountered the raised ridge painting task, I used tape for the straight runs and Metal Foil for the curved ends. It was easy enough 40-50 years ago, now at 81 and shaky I couldn't begin to do the rounded cutting of the foil edges. 

I'm really enjoying following this one, I'm sure it'll be a right beauty when done. Thanks for the post, details and photos. Cheers.

Patrick

Say Duster--  Thanks for your input and the link too. I will consider it. Before I go down the leafing trail, I will try liquid mask. With some luck and by using a sewing needle, I might be able to position masking material into most of the nooks and crannies. It does not hurt to try, and it is easy enough to remove.

I will let you know how it comes out. 

Thanks again!

Steve

Bakster

Below: MRP black, then I dry brushed a mixture of Tamiya black/white. I then sealed it with MRP Flat. This is my first time using MRP flat and I am so so about its performance. To my eye it appears more of a semi-gloss or semi-flat.

The final process with this piece is to paint the Ford emblem brass. I had an issue where tape pulled some brass off that emblem. So, I had to paint it all black and I will  go back and repaint that emblem. It's been a muddle and it won't be an easy task masking that. I am still not sure how I will pull that off. It would be easier to hand paint it but hand painting seldom works well for me.

I think I will first try using liquid mask around the emblem. Other portions maybe tape.

 

As a wild thought have you considered useing gold leaf? Well in a brass color, but the principle is the same.

Find an online suppler, local art supply/ craft type store. Looking for the gold leafing supplys. It is not an expencive proceedure.

First take a liquid ( called Size)  you pre apply to only the surface(s) you want the leafing to be applied to. Let it set, then carfully pick up only one sheet of the leaf, its about like picking up a cloud with a base ball bat. Though using static electricty on a flat brush, carefully move the sheet over the area to be leafed and very gently lay it down then very lightly tap the leafing on to the -in this case, the Ford letters and after it is set completly and covering the object, simply brush and or wipe away the excess remainder.  This leaves only the areas you treated with the pre treatment /size and the leafing on the model and no where else.  See? Simples  

p.s. https://www.midwestairbrush.com/    for example

Keep the glue out of yer ears. 

keavdog

Great progress.  Plug wires look great.  

 

Thanks, John. It is a fun build.

Great progress.  Plug wires look great.  

Todays post will bring things up to the current state of this build.

Below: Using my punch set I made masks for the posts and I painted them with MRP White.

Below: More masking. All brass are painted using Alclad.

Below: All brass were primed, sanded, clear coated, sanded, painted, then an acrylic wash applied, and finally, cleared coated again. 

Below: I call this candyland. It's the place where you have some gating parts painted and for the most part, ready for install.

Below: MRP black, then I dry brushed a mixture of Tamiya black/white. I then sealed it with MRP Flat. This is my first time using MRP flat and I am so so about its performance. To my eye it appears more of a semi-gloss or semi-flat.

The final process with this piece is to paint the Ford emblem brass. I had an issue where tape pulled some brass off that emblem. So, I had to paint it all black and I will  go back and repaint that emblem. It's been a muddle and it won't be an easy task masking that. I am still not sure how I will pull that off. It would be easier to hand paint it but hand painting seldom works well for me.

I think I will first try using liquid mask around the emblem. Other portions maybe tape.

And this is where I am with the model today.

The seats were painted with MRP black, then dry brushed as I did with the radiator. And finally, sealed with MRP semi flat.

I can't progress on the front end until I get the radiator finished. The front end builds off of it. So, my next step is to tackle the emblem so that I can install it.

End of update.

Thanks Dave, and John. I like how they turned out too. I am glad that paint didn't screw me up. Phew. Minor miracle.

Bakster

Bouncing around a bit-- here is what I have worked on the last few days. I am quickly coming to the point in this build where my updates are real time and where I am at in the build.

So -- more masking. Because of how I painted these--I probably made my mask job more difficult. Maybe if I painted the wood spokes first it would have been easier to mask. But--I didn't, so I must work with it. Oh-- I suppose I could hand paint it but I am not a fan of my hand painting. 

I purchased this punch set for this purpose. In the end-- I am so glad I did, and I wish I had it years ago. It is so handy for making circular masks. And I love the little cutting matt they send with it. I use it to cut all my tape.

I cut the punched mask in half, then tape the half circles around the base of the wood spoke.

Filler mask is added between the spokes and liquid mask applied over it to secure the tape and to fill any gaps.

Notice the center hub masks. Because the hub has a low profile, I needed a stronger tape to hold it in place. In comes the vinyl tape. It was perfect for this. Then I cut circular masks for the centers and filled them with liquid mask for good measure. Why make circular masks for the center? I try to minimize liquid mask getting on paint. I have found certain liquid masks can affect paint finishes. Anyway--the vinyl still has its purpose in my processes. They are ready for paint.

Oh-- because my VMS Liquid Mask dried out, I had bought what the local hobby store had. They had Vallejo's version and I have to say that I like it. It is watery, giving you the opportunity to push the rubber around before it sets. VMS was the same way and that is what I liked about it. The sales guy said people like it for masking canopies too. I have not tried that, so I can't speak to that. I always prefer tape when it comes to canopies, but he said people can make this stuff work.  FYI.

And to the paint. Ugh. Once again, I reach for what I was limited to buy in the local HS. They had the Ochre I needed but in Revell Acrylic. I have written about Revells Acrylic paint before. It is awful in an airbrush. Tip dry is horrendous. I had to wipe the tip every two or three sprays. The tip is a mess just after one spray. Terrible. I used their thinner and I tried various mixtures. I got a little improvement but still-- terrible tip dry. I won't be buying their paint again...if I can help it.

In spite of all that-- I managed to lay a good spray without any major disasters.

Demasked, the rubber is not attached. After paint I dry brushed FolkArt Raw Sienna. The dry brushing really pulls things together.

And that is my update for today. Cheers.

 

Turning out awesome.

Those turned out fantastic!  This is turning out to be quite the beauty of a build!

Bouncing around a bit-- here is what I have worked on the last few days. I am quickly coming to the point in this build where my updates are real time and where I am at in the build.

So -- more masking. Because of how I painted these--I probably made my mask job more difficult. Maybe if I painted the wood spokes first it would have been easier to mask. But--I didn't, so I must work with it. Oh-- I suppose I could hand paint it but I am not a fan of my hand painting. 

I purchased this punch set for this purpose. In the end-- I am so glad I did, and I wish I had it years ago. It is so handy for making circular masks. And I love the little cutting matt they send with it. I use it to cut all my tape.

I cut the punched mask in half, then tape the half circles around the base of the wood spoke.

Filler mask is added between the spokes and liquid mask applied over it to secure the tape and to fill any gaps.

Notice the center hub masks. Because the hub has a low profile, I needed a stronger tape to hold it in place. In comes the vinyl tape. It was perfect for this. Then I cut circular masks for the centers and filled them with liquid mask for good measure. Why make circular masks for the center? I try to minimize liquid mask getting on paint. I have found certain liquid masks can affect paint finishes. Anyway--the vinyl still has its purpose in my processes. They are ready for paint.

Oh-- because my VMS Liquid Mask dried out, I had bought what the local hobby store had. They had Vallejo's version and I have to say that I like it. It is watery, giving you the opportunity to push the rubber around before it sets. VMS was the same way and that is what I liked about it. The sales guy said people like it for masking canopies too. I have not tried that, so I can't speak to that. I always prefer tape when it comes to canopies, but he said people can make this stuff work.  FYI.

And to the paint. Ugh. Once again, I reach for what I was limited to buy in the local HS. They had the Ochre I needed but in Revell Acrylic. I have written about Revells Acrylic paint before. It is awful in an airbrush. Tip dry is horrendous. I had to wipe the tip every two or three sprays. The tip is a mess just after one spray. Terrible. I used their thinner and I tried various mixtures. I got a little improvement but still-- terrible tip dry. I won't be buying their paint again...if I can help it.

In spite of all that-- I managed to lay a good spray without any major disasters.

Demasked, the rubber is not attached. After paint I dry brushed FolkArt Raw Sienna. The dry brushing really pulls things together.

And that is my update for today. Cheers.

Tanker-Builder

Oh Boy! You nailed that paint for sure!

 

Tanker-Builder

Hi Bakster!

     Actually no. What you did was find the farmer who had just unhitched his horse from the Twelve -Bottom Disc/And offered to pay for a tow to Bubba's Service station if Bubba's was close enough. Or to his farmyard where he had a couple of cannisters of what passed for gaoline back then. A little stronger than the car stuff.

    Tractors were notoriously cantankerous and used more refined fuel. But it cost more than a bale of hay back then! But, then you were the center of attention in a spiffy motor Carriage with that amazing paint and that Engine! What was the world coming to? 

 

Lol. You know, when I posted the pics of the motor, I thought about adding an oil puddle under the engine. 

[quote user="oldermodelguy"

Of course you have the first hand view of it at home but here on screen it looks great ! That's a mighty fine line to carry all the way around those fenders too. 1/16 scale makes a big difference there.

[/quote] Thanks, Dave!

Oh Boy! You nailed that paint for sure!

Hi Bakster!

     Actually no. What you did was find the farmer who had just unhitched his horse from the Twelve -Bottom Disc/And offered to pay for a tow to Bubba's Service station if Bubba's was close enough. Or to his farmyard where he had a couple of cannisters of what passed for gaoline back then. A little stronger than the car stuff.

    Tractors were notoriously cantankerous and used more refined fuel. But it cost more than a bale of hay back then! But, then you were the center of attention in a spiffy motor Carriage with that amazing paint and that Engine! What was the world coming to? 

Bakster

 

 

keavdog

Gotta be happy with that!  Looks great.

 

 

 

 

 

Overall, yes. I could have done a little better job with the primer sanding. I got lazy. It's not perfect but considering my first car in decades,  I am happy with it.

 

Thanks John!

 

Of course you have the first hand view of it at home but here on screen it looks great ! That's a mighty fine line to carry all the way around those fenders too. 1/16 scale makes a big difference there.

DUSTER

I'm happy with it too. If you're looking for a second opinion.  Looks every bit  like a classic. 

 

I'm happy with it too. If you're looking for a second opinion.  Looks every bit  like a classic. 

keavdog

Gotta be happy with that!  Looks great.

 

Overall, yes. I could have done a little better job with the primer sanding. I got lazy. It's not perfect but considering my first car in decades,  I am happy with it.

Thanks John!

Gotta be happy with that!  Looks great.

And todays update, The Unmasking.

End of update

Speaking of tape, I tried Tamiyas 1mil. I have to say it worked well for curves. And for tighter curves where the tape is still too wide to bend-- I cut it down the middle. I am leaning towards preferring Tamiya over vinyl. It has the right tack and it's super easy to trim. I find vinyl not as easy to trim, it has an almost too strong tack, and often, the edges are not that clean. I often find burrs in the tape edge. In short --Tamiya is easier to work with.  But that is just my opinion, of course.

oldermodelguy

When I first tested Mr Primer Surfacer thinned with Mr Leveling thinner I found it to go down silky smooth.

oldermodelguy

Anyway, all the paint work is complete and it looks very nice. I'll get back to it one day.

oldermodelguy

What paint are you using for your colors ?

The green is Mr Color #6. The brass is Alclad Brass. In coming posts you will see that I painted the seats using MRP black. That paint sprays awesome straight from the bottle. Good coverage maintaining excellent detail. So to utilize that wonder well--a person needs to make sure the plastic/primer is baby smooth or defects will be apparent. If you have a good base-- the paint is amazing and it's scale is fantastic. I can see that for military models it being the bomb. 

keavdog

That seems like a lot less work OMG.  Really like that green!

 

Yeah it is a nice green. I was originally planning to do a two tone as depicted in the model art but when I received the two colors, the light paint ws so darn close to the darker that it was not worth effort. This is an example of why I hate ordering colors off the net. Though the web picture looks perfect--what you get is not always what you expect.

Thanks for following and posting. More to come.

keavdog

That seems like a lot less work OMG.  Really like that green!

 

Being 1/16 finding tape was no problem though.