Anyone Up for a Star trek Group build?

Sounds pretty good to me!  I was just starting to gather & cobble some parts together for a scratch/bash of an Intrepid-sized starship in 1/1000 scale.  I'm calling it the USS Taegu.  Count me in!

Boba Fett wrote:

Well, I would like to join, but the end-date of June is a little quick. I'm in HS so getting my work done is taking away a lot of modeling time. If you bumped it back to end of or mid July, I would be in! Will you allow a kitbashed hull on something? Also, would you accept it if plastic was a lesser factor in the build. I was thinking of a Borg cube using one of those foam cubes for school projects and then adding a bunch of stuff on there.

The end date is always negotiable to me.  These things never finish on time.  The main thing is to see what others are doing and how they do it.  It gives everyone ideas or help with their projects.  I work and go to school at night so i understand your problem.  Start when you can and finish when you can.

My design is taken from Masao's website Star Fleet Museum with some creative liscence as long he does not object.  I will be a class he has not used or a configuration he has not used.  It does have a saucer section but how the body and ncalles will look i have not gotten that far.  I have not even given it a class yet.  The name will be something along my family name like USS LINDSAY or USS CAMPBELL.  Something along the Scottish clans.

I stumbled across the drawings I had started for the secondary hull for the USS Kodiak NCC 6000 class battleship, in Erik Kristiansen's "Jakill's Star Fleet Reference Manual" Ships of the Fleet Volume II. The hull will be 14-1/2" long 5" wide, and very close to 2-1/2" high. I'm doing drawings for this one because it will be a scale model from an illustration in the manual, and will have to be scratch built. I also need to scale up the warp nacelles, as they are significantly different from any I've seen before, and there are two "navigation deflectors" one on each end of the hull. If I can get those drawings done, soon enough, I could join this group build.  I won't know for sure until the drawings are done, and would most likely be a "late entry". The Primary hull is essentially a Miranda class heavy frigate, of which USS Reliant is one, so I can use that kit.

Ooo!  Yes, we need a badge!  Maybe I can whip something up.  What size would it need to be? 

sumpter250 wrote:

I stumbled across the drawings I had started for the secondary hull for the USS Kodiak NCC 6000 class battleship, in Erik Kristiansen's "Jakill's Star Fleet Reference Manual" Ships of the Fleet Volume II.

Sooo... kinda like this one?

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/Prince_of_Styrene_II/USS%20Phoenix/mainbeautyaft.jpg

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/Prince_of_Styrene_II/USS%20Phoenix/undersaucer.jpg

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/Prince_of_Styrene_II/USS%20Phoenix/side_sm.jpg

Sorry.

Sooo... kinda like this one?

Yeah, kinda like that one! 

Sorry.

Don't be, It's still a project I want to do, and besides, now I have a color reference! I was beginning to think no one had done a model of this class. Very nicely done!!! Was the secondary hull a scratch build? If so, I'd be interested in your method. I intend to do a "plate-on-frame" in styrene, which is why I need to work up the drawings.

sumpter250 wrote:

I had to get up, and go to your album and study what you did. The side photo, and the Jakill's drawing didn't match. I finally found what was up, you used a standard secondary hull, cut up, widened, and lengthened. Which is why there is a bulge in the forward end, it came from the kit part. Still, a very nice piece of work. I used two standard hulls for the secondary hull of USS Firestone NCC 8600. That was a fun bit of kitbashing! After I get the camera batteries charged, I'll have to take some decent pics of Firestone.  One more question. USS Phoenix? I can't find a Battleship with that name, and the best I can see is you used the number 8710? I'm confused. I still like the warp nacelles, those are excellent!

Sorry for the late reply.  Wife was hogging the computer Sunday & yesterday I did 9 hours at work starting at 3am!!  Not the usual shift.  Add the 7 year old & I'm was too pooped to type.  

Here's the link for anyone else interested:

http://s239.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/Prince_of_Styrene_II/USS%20Phoenix/

I did the Phoenix about 10 years ago, a lifetime in model building.  It was one of my first scratchbuilds & just about the time that I discovered online forums.  Yes, I know the profiles don't perfectly match, but it was a first attempt & I wasn't even sure at that time what I was really doing- I just started hacking with a vague idea!   But I must have built her well, as I hear she's still holding up!

The nacelles are just standard E-As only lengthened.  The hardest part was getting those three "stripes" to glue flat around the curves at the front!  The warp coils are just a piece of dowel rod.  The best "found part" used in this ship is the deflector- it's the clear, protective cap from deodarant!   The rear deflector is from an E-D toy.  The thing under the secondary hull is part of a toy boat.  Some of the phasers are pen caps.  The struts are layered sheet to get the trench around the edges.

Thank you for the compliments!

The name came from a request.  The Phoenix is actually a comission from a friend in a Star Trek club & that is their ship's name & dez number.

Okay, I've been working on a group badge.  Check it out & voice what you think.  I took some inspiration from the first Trek XI trailer.

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/Prince_of_Styrene_II/model%20stuff/master3a.jpg

Smaller versions are available in 100 & 70 pixel size

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/Prince_of_Styrene_II/model%20stuff/master3a_100.jpg

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/Prince_of_Styrene_II/model%20stuff/master3a_70.jpg

And here's some first shots of the USS Taegu.  She's in 1/1000 & roughly Intrepid sized.  I havn't thought of a class name yet.  I had some parts in the bits box laying around & one last part my mother-in-law found for me got this idea going.

Some old CDs & a hospital water pitcher lid:

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/Prince_of_Styrene_II/USS%20Taegu/DSC06012.jpg

The body from an EF-111-A Raven jet:

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/Prince_of_Styrene_II/USS%20Taegu/DSC05994.jpg

And some highlighters:

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/Prince_of_Styrene_II/USS%20Taegu/DSC05996.jpg

Should turn out pretty snazzy!  I have to build some nacelle struts & the neck.  Does anyone else have anything?

The name came from a request.  The Phoenix is actually a comission from a friend in a Star Trek club & that is their ship's name & dez number.

  Read and understood.  Your friend should feel honored, that was a lot of work, well executed.  I should ask forgiveness, for questioning. I am used to working with lines drawings, as a ship modeler, and can look at the lines, and picture the shape they represent, so while I wasn't immediately seeing "errors", I did sense something "other than what I had expected to see". As a model railroader I am used to the "rivet counters", who spend more time looking for faults than appreciating the work done, and I am relatively new to the Sci Fi, and military modeling world. So far my impression has been one of "very strict attention to detail, and "correct" modeling of the "objects of worship". I am beginning to find a lot more "creative liscense" than I had expected. A good thing. Your USS Taegu appears to be from an era that I haven't been part of, pre TOS. My interest is predominently TOS, and the TOS crew movies. I know a little about NG/ DS9, but not enough to really matter. I am impressed with how you can work with "objects" to turn them into something recognizable. A hospital water pitcher lid indeed! Keep up the good work!!

sumpter250 wrote:

Your friend should feel honored, that was a lot of work, well executed.

Yea, but it was a fun challenge, so it's all good.

I should ask forgiveness, for questioning. I am used to working with lines drawings, as a ship modeler, and can look at the lines, and picture the shape they represent, so while I wasn't immediately seeing "errors", I did sense something "other than what I had expected to see". As a model railroader I am used to the "rivet counters", who spend more time looking for faults than appreciating the work done, I am relatively new to the Sci Fi, and military modeling world. So far my impression has been one of "very strict attention to detail, and "correct" modeling of the "objects of worship".

Well, our nitch has it's fair share of rivet counters, too, as well as some very inflated egos.  An apple in every bushel, so to speak.  Sci-fi fans are a passionate bunch, much like any other loves we may have.  We know all of the details & if we don't we can get the info & find a way to model it.  Many "debates" have been had on other forums that usually end in people agreeing to not agree.  For me, I love to get it as accurate as possible, but I have limitations & I know that.  Time, money & skills sometimes make me put it away or finish what I have.  For me, the goal is to just make something I'm happy with.  If I like it, that's the goal.  After all, it's going to be sitting on my shelf, not anyone else's.

I am relatively new to the Sci Fi, and military modeling world. So far my impression has been one of "very strict attention to detail, and "correct" modeling of the "objects of worship". I am beginning to find a lot more "creative liscense" than I had expected.

Creative license is one thing we have an abundance of!!  That's what's so fun about sci-fi is that there's no real rules to live by.  Heavy guidelines, yes, but they can be bent on occasion.

Your USS Taegu appears to be from an era that I haven't been part of, pre TOS. My interest is predominently TOS, and the TOS crew movies. I know a little about NG/ DS9, but not enough to really matter. I am impressed with how you can work with "objects" to turn them into something recognizable. A hospital water pitcher lid indeed! Keep up the good work!!

The Taegu is from the Next Gen movie era, similiar to the Enterprise-E styling.  I love all of the eras of Trek, some more than others.  Build what you love, that's the name of the game!  And thanks for the compliments on the "found parts"!  it's starting to turn into a sickness because I look at nearly every scrap part I see with "potential".

The USS Taegu is coming along nicely.  I am having a little problem with the saucer.  Hopefully I will fix the problem soon. 

The badge looks pretty good.  I did not think of tying this in with the coming out of the movie.  I like the badge.  Any votes?

Also, since there is a GB forum, should I move this to the GB forum section?  If administrators don't mind I would say keep it here.  If they say move it I will try and do so.

As far as dates, I pick them out of a hat.  They are not hard set.  I was just wanting to get a scratchbuild or kit bash of ST going.  Any opinions on dates or no dates. 

I will post pics of my attempt at my saucer and a copy of drawings I have of my idea.

And thanks for the compliments on the "found parts"!  it's starting to turn into a sickness because I look at nearly every scrap part I see with "potential"

.....never throw anything away! This,USS Firestone NCC 8600, Class ship, Battle Cruiser, was a pure kitbash, with a couple of scratched parts (pylons, nacelle,and hull. also the megaphasers on the primary hull, and the lower photon torpedo tubes):

Yep, that looks real familliar!  Needs a smidge of putty on the saucer windows, but other than that it looks like a solid build.  Interesting idea having the third nacelle.  The Kodiak Class always impressed me with it's look of bulk & power.  That third engine would really push it over the top!

Do you have any other angles of the Firestone?

Do you have any other angles of the Firestone?

These are the only other shots I have that came out well.

Firestone is an old build, so I'll probably not be trying to do any putty work on it now. Still it doesn't hurt to ask, exactly what putty work? 

sumpter250 wrote:

These are the only other shots I have that came out well.

!!! From the first angle, I thought the saucer-mounted phasers were on top of the nacelle!   Pretty cool idea to have them mounted on the saucer!  And that they're mounted forward of the outermost circumference is just that much more interesting.

Firestone is an old build, so I'll probably not be trying to do any putty work on it now. Still it doesn't hurt to ask, exactly what putty work?

I agree, let the old builds stand as they are.  It shows how much your skills have grown.  The putty work I was refering to is on the saucer rim window inserts.  You can see the edges, but then again that old kit was pretty bad in some areas.  When I built mine years ago, it didn't look any better.  Those inserts have about a 2mm gap on either side!

Some updates!  Here's some of the putty work.  I wanted some panel lines, so I puttied over only what seemed to be out of scale & also added some Aves to the aft between the engine housings. You can also see a bit of the neck, supplied from an old Transformers toy.

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/Prince_of_Styrene_II/USS%20Taegu/body_putty.jpg

Primered, it looks pretty good. I think I'll have to scribe some more panels into it, though.

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/Prince_of_Styrene_II/USS%20Taegu/primer1.jpg

The highlighters break down beautifully & you can remove the liquid. I plan on painting the inner tube & leaving the outer clear casing alone.

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/Prince_of_Styrene_II/USS%20Taegu/highlighter_apart.jpg

Since the Taegu will have double deflectors, I wanted to keep the theme. I came up with this design. We'll see how it works out after I make the main aft strut.

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/Prince_of_Styrene_II/USS%20Taegu/strut_design_sm.jpg

Prince of Styrene II wrote:

Since the Taegu will have double deflectors, I wanted to keep the theme. I came up with this design. We'll see how it works out after I make the main aft strut. http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/Prince_of_Styrene_II/USS%20Taegu/strut_design_sm.jpg

I like the bottom sketch of the nacelle.  Of course it depends on the era you are build towards.

Here is a sketch of my project. 

It is not the most elegant of sketches.  Here is the trouble I am having.

I need to get some styrene and try again.  I have head of another way to do a scratchbuilt saucer with Bondo resin.  I have not tried that one yet.  Of course now looking at my sketch I am not sure is to go with a tapered down saucer or have look different with a more rounded up top part.

SNOOPY wrote:

I like the bottom sketch of the nacelle.  Of course it depends on the era you are build towards.

The bottom sketch is just the bottom angle of the same idea.  The era I'm designing in is the post-Nemesis time period.

SNOOPY wrote:

Of course now looking at my sketch I am not sure is to go with a tapered down saucer or have look different with a more rounded up top part.

Looks like a new version of the Ptolemy Class.  Very nice.  I like the top contour.  Similar, but different than the usual Starfleet type.  A little bit of the classic UFO feeling to it.

Archangel wrote:

I have a kitbash of a Klingon ship that would fit right in here. I built two years ago for Wonderfest 2006. It didn't win anything but I did get a few compliments on it. I also have the in progress shots still from when I posted it on www.Starshipmodeler.com while building it. If it fits the rules here I'd like to enter it in the group build.

As long as no one objects, I am flexible.  Some thing from the Klingon Empire would be nice.

Woody wrote:

Hey Snoopy, I use that method of turning parts in styrene all the time. I think I see your problem. You are building up too much heat in the part and it's not stablised enough. I use a cordless drill to turn the part and a Dremel with a coarse tooth to sculpt the part. Turn the part your cutting slowly and use the dremel on as high as speed as you can that doesn't cause melting. Heat is your enemy! I would also support the underside of the part, directly under where you are cutting with the Dremel. If the part isn't solidly supported you will get a wavy. uneven surface. I clamp the drill to the workbench, support the back side of the piece with my finger tips(put talc powder on your finger tips), and hold the dremel with my right hand. If the friction on your finger tips produces uncomfortable amounts of heat, the drill is turning too fast. I hope this is helpful.

I got this idea from you a few group builds ago.  I am using a bench top drell press that does not turn all that fast but I can still slow it down  a lot.  The cutting tool was a combination of a sanding block with 150 grit sandpaper, a small coarse file, and at times a 3M sanding sponge.  I really do not see a lathe in the near future so if I can perfect this I think I will be okay.  I still have a Dadealus Class in storage waiting to be unmothballed and finished. This week I will try again and let you know how it goes.

Woody wrote:

Heat is your enemy! I would also support the underside of the part, directly under where you are cutting with the Dremel. If the part isn't solidly supported you will get a wavy. uneven surface.

Woody, I am also having the problem of unlamination.  I tried two things.  two layers I tried Testors Liquid Cement and for the others I tried epoxy.  Both layer are starting to delaminate.  Any suggestions on adhesive for laminating sizes of the circles from 3-3/4" to 1-5/16" in diameter?  I was thinking of trying Weld -On #3.

Archangel wrote:

I have a kitbash of a Klingon ship that would fit right in here. I built two years ago for Wonderfest 2006. It didn't win anything but I did get a few compliments on it. I also have the in progress shots still from when I posted it on www.Starshipmodeler.com while building it. If it fits the rules here I'd like to enter it in the group build.

So it's already done?  Isn't the idea behind a group build to actually build something & not just "enter" what's already on your shelf?

Prince of Styrene II wrote:

Archangel wrote: I have a kitbash of a Klingon ship that would fit right in here. I built two years ago for Wonderfest 2006. It didn't win anything but I did get a few compliments on it. I also have the in progress shots still from when I posted it on www.Starshipmodeler.com while building it. If it fits the rules here I'd like to enter it in the group build. So it's already done?  Isn't the idea behind a group build to actually build something & not just "enter" what's already on your shelf?

I read it as if Archangel had another klingon ship he had started.  If it is not complete i do not mind him jumping in as long as other agree.  As far as an already done one well that does not fit our category. 

Archangel can you be a little more specific on your build?

Woody wrote:

I mostly use CA but I have used epoxy as well.

I would try CA but the strength properties for CA are not very good in the shearing direction.  If you have not had any problems with it I will give it a shot.  What do you think about taking either balsa or basswood sheets, cutting out the circle sizes, laminate, sand and then make resin parts?  There was also a system someone showed on the scratchbuild forum where he used Bondo resin with stacked styrene discs and make a tool to smooth out the resin.  It seems a little too messy to me but it might be something I need to think about trying.  I would like to get the saucer done before school starts in two weeks.  It is going rather slowly.

-Scott Lindsay

SNOOPY wrote:

I read it as if Archangel had another klingon ship he had started.  If it is not complete i do not mind him jumping in as long as other agree.  As far as an already done one well that does not fit our category.

Yes, I agree with this idea.  Maybe I misread it.  Calrification would be helpful.

SNOOPY wrote:

I would try CA but the strength properties for CA are not very good in the shearing direction.  If you have not had any problems with it I will give it a shot.  What do you think about taking either balsa or basswood sheets, cutting out the circle sizes, laminate, sand and then make resin parts?  There was also a system someone showed on the scratchbuild forum where he used Bondo resin with stacked styrene discs and make a tool to smooth out the resin.  It seems a little too messy to me but it might be something I need to think about trying.  I would like to get the saucer done before school starts in two weeks.  It is going rather slowly. -Scott Lindsay

I haven't had a problem using CA laminated styrene but regardless of which glue you use I'd use plenty of clamps. Air spaces will cause de-lamination. My goal in making the blank is no air and fully cured cement/glue.

By the way did you get my PM?

sumpter250 wrote:

Just a thought, how about "rings" instead of circles. It might be touchy aligning the rings, but the  bonded surface area would be smaller, and the liquid styrene cement could set more quickly, with less "gas out" problems.

It probably be a quicker cure time for the adhesives but like you said I think alignment would be rough.

Woody, When you used CA, what did you use to spread the CA?  Did you just clob it on and spread with a putty knife or did you put dabs of CA every 1/2" or so then let the pressure squeeze it out from there?  I was just thinking what about 3M 77 spray?  I am not sure if it has the holding strength when being sanded.  Time to experiment?  I wish I still worked at this filter making laboratory.  To bond plastics together we would put them in special made jig that would heat both surfaces to be bonded but the opposite sides were cooled with CO2 or nitrogen and then each piece pressed together until cooled.  Presto one solid plastic piece.  Well, that was the past. 

Is my GB entry ok?

SNOOPY wrote:

Woody, When you used CA, what did you use to spread the CA?  Did you just clob it on and spread with a putty knife or did you put dabs of CA every 1/2" or so then let the pressure squeeze it out from there?  I was just thinking what about 3M 77 spray?  I am not sure if it has the holding strength when being sanded.  Time to experiment?  I wish I still worked at this filter making laboratory.  To bond plastics together we would put them in special made jig that would heat both surfaces to be bonded but the opposite sides were cooled with CO2 or nitrogen and then each piece pressed together until cooled.  Presto one solid plastic piece.  Well, that was the past.

I use the thin CA and makes concentric rings about 1/4-1/2 inch apart. I don't place the first ring right on the edge but about 1/2 inch back. You just have to eyeball it. After the parts are placed together the glue should go all the way to the visable seam. Too much and you have a mess.

Woody wrote:

Is my GB entry ok?  SNOOPY wrote: Woody, When you used CA, what did you use to spread the CA?  Did you just clob it on and spread with a putty knife or did you put dabs of CA every 1/2" or so then let the pressure squeeze it out from there?  I was just thinking what about 3M 77 spray?  I am not sure if it has the holding strength when being sanded.  Time to experiment?  I wish I still worked at this filter making laboratory.  To bond plastics together we would put them in special made jig that would heat both surfaces to be bonded but the opposite sides were cooled with CO2 or nitrogen and then each piece pressed together until cooled.  Presto one solid plastic piece.  Well, that was the past.  I use the thin CA and makes concentric rings about 1/4-1/2 inch apart. I don't place the first ring right on the edge but about 1/2 inch back. You just have to eyeball it. After the parts are placed together the glue should go all the way to the visable seam. Too much and you have a mess.

Woody, I got your PM and your entry is good.  I need to update the first page.  How do you make the concentric rings.  I have been using the step method where I cut out a circle the best I can by and then putting it into the drill press and file it down to size.  After getting the sizes I need that is when I laminate together.  This weekend will be the next attempt at getting the shape I need.

Archangel wrote:

It is already completed. That is why I asked before entering the build .The good thing is i can start a new build though on something else easy enough. I have a Romulan Warbird from the 3 Pc adversary kit that needs to be kitbashed

Archangel, unfortuneately this is a building site and if it is finished then no you cannot use it as an entry.  You can post pics of if.  I am sure we would be interested in seeing it but if you want to do the Romulan warbird that is okay as long as you ar scratchbuilding or kitbashing the model.  When you do any type of scratchbuilding or kitbashing of pieces post those and tell us how you did it.  Let me know your intensions.

Got some more done.

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/Prince_of_Styrene_II/USS%20Taegu/strut_finished.jpg

I made the main nacelle strut by laminating three sheets. The middle sheet was grooved, slightly smaller in width and also has a tab to insert into the secondary hull's already present slot. The smaller width creates a trench around the outer edge. I'm also proud of the angle leading down to the grooves.

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/Prince_of_Styrene_II/USS%20Taegu/struts_on.jpg

Both main struts are inserted. I also filled the aft with weights to counter all the CDs in the saucer.

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/Prince_of_Styrene_II/USS%20Taegu/impulse1.jpg

I shaved off a bit of the underside "flair" just aft of the saucer which will house the impulse engines.  I think I'll also end up blending the flain into the underside of the saucer.

That's all for now!

Boba Fett wrote:

Question Snoopy, are you gonna post this in GB's? You might get more people that way... Just a thought. If so, when?

I would and probably should but the last time I suggested a scratchbuild there I did not get any takers.  I figured anyone interested in Sci-Fi things come here so for now I will stay here.  I may at the very least post a notification of this group build. 

I sure will do that. I haven't started yet But I have an idea of turning the Warbird into a Romulan Transporter or a three engined variant to the Warbird. I know it's not a new idea but with what I have on hand its about all I can do. Here are some pictures of the model I was talking about before that is already built. I bashed a nX-wing and a D-7 together. After i had finnsihed it I had realized the nose was a bit too long . It had parts from the TOS Enterprise, The Hasagawa Wepons sets and a ceneter gear shift from a car model for detail and a part from a Monogram snap tite space shuttle.

The start.  a broken X-wing and the rear half of a D-7 kit

http://img466.imageshack.us/img466/2083/0054mr.jpg

The engines

http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/3308

http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/9936/0098hh.jpg

The boom and aft sections mated and some details added.

 http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/8663/0019hv.jpg

Here are the rest.

Here I cut out the Torpedo launch tubes and used plactic straws for them so they would look more realistic. I added a tank Turret to the top of R-2 to make it lok more like a Klingon bridge . You can see the center console for a gear shift from a car kit on the top of the nose.

http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/9927/0032zp.jpg

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/9518/0048zp.jpg

The aft section

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/3686/0075ot.jpg

The Finnished Product. I painted it in  Tamiya Primer Grey and used a heavy wash of black.

http://img107.imageshack.us/img107/1388/scan0003b1dp.jpg

Here is a close up of the top of the nose. You;ll see part of a plastic twizzle stick and some plastic strip added to either side of it to make the cloaking device generators.

 http://img154.imageshack.us/img154/2842/vtadsc00466ef8.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums

http://img.photobucket.com/albums

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/Archangel51534/S6300116.jpg

Woody wrote:

I use a cordless drill to turn the part and a Dremel with a coarse tooth to sculpt the part. Turn the part your cutting slowly and use the dremel on as high as speed as you can that doesn't cause melting.  If the part isn't solidly supported you will get a wavy. uneven surface. I clamp the drill to the workbench, support the back side of the piece with my finger tips(put talc powder on your finger tips), and hold the dremel with my right hand.

Woody, when you use the dremel/moto tool, 1) Which attached do you use a sanding stone or one of the drum sanders? and 2) Which direction do you use the Dremel tool?  I mean is the tool turning counter the drill's rotation or perpendicular to the drills rotation.

I made to new discs to be made into a saucer.  The discs turned out pretty good.  I think they are pretty solid laminated.  I used Super Glue this time and allow 48 hours cure time.  I made the discs by putting them into my drill press, first filing them with a course file, then using a sanding block with medium sandpaper, and then one of those 3M fine sanding sponges.  Can out looking pretty good.  I made sure that things did not get over heated this time.  Tonight I will attempt to make the saucer section.

I finally got the Jackill drawings redrawn in scale, for the USS Kodiak NCC 6000 secondary hull.

  Scratchbuilding the secondary hull, Warp nacelles, hull and nacelle pylons, will be the first part of this project. Modifying the Reliant kit to represent the Kodiak's primary hull will be part two. I have to figure out exactly what construction method I want to use. the hull will be styrene, at least on the outside, I may opt for micro plywood for the forms, and a secure base to anchor the primary hull to. The complete drawing is in Jackill's Starfleet Reference Manual ships of the fleet Volume II, along with the specs of the class. 

Woody wrote:

Lucky me the National Guard has issued a curfew and a state of emergency. I haven't been able to join the forum because we are without power, water, and heat, due to a very bad icestorm that has crippled us here in Missouri. I'm on a run for food and a doctor for my sick 3 year old daughter, about a hundred miles from home and found a Wi-Fi signal at a hotel that still has power. It's amazing how quickly the thin coating of civilization rubs away to bring us back to a state of anarchy. They have had fights break out over gas and food. I'm sleeping with my AR-15 and a 9mm pistol. I hope our food holds out. Pray for us and I'll be back online when the world starts back up.

Sounds like you need those prayers.  It is said that in this country where our government is suppose to help us they never seem to actually go through with it.  The National Guard should be bring in suppplies continuosly.  I served in the military and we did some pretty amazing stuff in other countries why can't we do the same here.  We know where and when storms will hit why not get mobolized ahead of time.  Woody, all my prayers to you friends and family.  I love this country and want to see good things happen.  I hope you never have use those weapons.  Godspeed!

sumpter250 wrote:

And thanks for the compliments on the "found parts"!  it's starting to turn into a sickness because I look at nearly every scrap part I see with "potential" .....never throw anything away! This,USS Firestone NCC 8600, Class ship, Battle Cruiser, was a pure kitbash, with a couple of scratched parts (pylons, nacelle,and hull. also the megaphasers on the primary hull, and the lower photon torpedo tubes):

That looks like an updated version of the old Dreadnought class from TOS.

There was a "future" version of this, commanded by Riker in one of the later Next Gen episodes.

The dreadnought class, as best as I can determine, is similar. the secondary hull appears to be a bit shorter,somewhere between the "Constitution" class Cruiser, and the "Firestone" class Battle Cruiser, and there is no lower photon torpedo tubes, beneath the secondary hull. This is TOS, between Star Trek II, and the "Undiscovered Country".  Some of these could have been re-comissioned in the early NG era. 

sumpter250 wrote:

There was a "future" version of this, commanded by Riker in one of the later Next Gen episodes.

The ship Admiral Riker commanded was the Enterprise-D after a refit, in the final episode titled "All Good Things...".  The ship is often refered to as the "AGT E-D".  It sported a third nacelle & a mega-phaser canon under the saucer, among other small greebles.

Here's a great build by John Payne:

http://www.inpayne.com/models/agtd/agtd.html

Sumpter250:  Very impressive.  Do you have other angles to look at?  I am not sure what Prince of Styrene II is looking at.  I just do see the gaps he mentioned.  His experience is a lot better than mine.  Of course I could look at a models with big gaps and not see them.  I usually look at the subject.  I am sure when my is complete he can point out things I missed.  This why these group builds are fun.  I always miss things.

Sorry I have not been doing much.  I am taking a programming course to finish my engineering degree and that is taking all my time especially when I am lousy at it but it is a requirement. I also have to get some supplies and try Woody's suggestion on getting rig of my grooves in the saucer.

Woody, I hope things are going good for you and you came out of the storm unscathed and your family is okay.

-Scott

SNOOPY wrote:

Woody, I hope things are going good for you and you came out of the storm unscathed and your family is okay.

Yea, how's things going, Woody?  Everything getting back to normal?

I've been moving a bit slow on my build, too.  Havn't touched it in a very long time.  Work has been far too draining to feel the need to build.  Last night I did go through my greeble box to look for deflector parts.  I love parts that look very industrial, are functional & not pretty, so I think I'll be using some parts from the radial engine of a B-29.  I'll have to cut them down a bit first, but it should look cool.

Do you have other angles to look at?

The only other pics are back on page 2, a starboard side shot, and a head on shot. 

Glad to hear you're back up & running!

Oh, and here you go:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qatBSS89ti0

The patterns, and the material for the Kodiak secondary hull, are waiting for me to "pay them some attention".

Model Railroading has captured my attention for the moment. I have a show to go to, end of this month, in Rockford, Il., and have been working on a logging train to run on the modules. A dozen log cars, a "loader", and upgrades to the locomotive.....easy work, lots of "research",(the internet hasn't yet been too helpful in providing the details of a steam siphon, used by the Rayonier Lumber Co. on its #111 locomotive) which is the more time consuming part of the build, and the reason I do Sci Fi.......to escape the research!

Sorry guys for not posting. I havn't started the cube, but I've been planning. I just want to let you all know that I'm still alive... BTW: SNOOPY, is there a badge for this? Thx.

 Graham

Yep, the third badge in my sig- the welder.  Here's the direct link for you:

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/Prince_of_Styrene_II/model%20stuff/master3a_100.jpg

.......stuff/master3a_100.jpg

Once I actually start the project, I'll have to copy that to my signature......or.....when you see that in my signature,....you'll know I've actually started working on the project! :) :) 

Well, I stated I was in, so this is the final commitment.......

The drawings have been glued to sheets of 3/32" Basswood. I now have to cut out each pattern, and assemble the subframe. Once that is done, I can start adding the styrene stringers, and then begin the (hopefully) plate-on-frame secondary hull construction. I say "hopefully", because I've never tried this method of construction. What I intend, is horizontal styrene strip "stringers", that will provide support,and attachment points for styrene, cut-and-formed individual hull plates. The overall size and shape of the hull seems to be "smooth enough" to permit this, and I believe I can get the proper shape, in styrene, by using this method. You'll know soon enough if it fails.

The easy part is done, the patterns have been cut out and assembled into the subframe of the Kodiak's secondary hull. Once the glue has thoroughly set, I can begin "fairing in", sanding the high spots off, and adding the taper to each of the frames. The hard part? applying the styrene "skin". I have to go back to the Jackill's drawings, and begin laying out the hull panels, on the actual hull, to determine the individual sizes for the "plates" (this is going to be......fun?)

The picture shows the major components, in their basic relationship to each other. The warp nacelles are from the Reliant kit, and will have to be replaced with scratch built parts made up from the drawings.

Wow. I am amazed. Not in a million years could I do something that cool. Excellent work.

Well, there you have it, I knew there had to be some benefit for living over a million years!

Thanks! the best is yet to come.......I've done the "woodwork" before, adding the styrene skin, that is totally new territory, and I'll be inventing the "technique" as I go. For those interested, the original drawing for this project is in Jackill's Star Fleet Reference Manual, ships of the fleet, Vol II. the conversion factor is 3.572 X the Jackill's drawings. I used the width of the primary hull, of the Reliant kit, and the drawing to determine sizes. (Oh No! Highschool math!!, having some real use???!!!!!)

Found this, yesterday. It's the Jackill's drawing, on the shipschematics.net site:

shipschematics.net/startrek/images/federation/battleship_kodiak.jpg 

I also found this, the "Kodiak B":

shipschematics.net/startrek/images/federation/battleship_kodiak_upgrade.jpg I would need two Enterprise "E" ( "Nemesis" ) kits to bash this one. Are these available?

sumpter250 wrote:

I also found this, the "Kodiak B": shipschematics.net/startrek/images/federation/battleship_kodiak_upgrade.jpg I would need two Enterprise "E" ( "Nemesis" ) kits to bash this one. Are these available?

Yes they are!  Round 2 (formerly Polar Lights) has re-released the E-E within the last 2-3 months.  You can find them at you friendly neighborhood LHS.

Here's Cult's page in his hobbyshop so you can see the box art.  $22 is about your average price.

http://www.culttvmanshop.com/shop/product.php?productid=16854&cat=361&page=3

Here's a couple pics.  Not much, but I'm liking how the shuttlebay is turning out.

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/Prince_of_Styrene_II/USS%20Taegu/saucer_sand.jpg

I filled the saucer's rim with Aves & sanded down. You can see some Aves on the far side to be sanded.

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/Prince_of_Styrene_II/USS%20Taegu/shuttlebay1.jpg

Taking a cue from the Intrepid class, I decided to add an off-center shuttlebay & EVA door along with a landing pad platform, which still needs to be glued on. The outer wall & grooved door is two layers of sheet. The top still needs to have the Aves sanded down. 

Taegu is coming along well! I'll ask the dumb question,what is Aves? Is that Apoxie Sculpt?

The Enterprise E kit is a 1/1400 scale kit. I was really hoping to build in 1/537 (1/530, 1/550) scale to go along with Farragut, Firestone, and eventually Kodiak.

Speaking of Kodiak, I finally gave up on individual plates for the secondary hull. Instead, I'm wrapping sections top centerline to bottom centerline, covering two to four frames, depending on the severity of curve and part shape. The secondary is about half "skinned". I'll sand smooth all the joints, and putty where necessary, and then scribe in the plate boundries, and "inlet" any of the detail that goes deeper than the thickness of the hull material. The forms for the engine nacelles will be Estes rocket body tubes (0.9xxxxx" dia.). I'll wrap them in styrene same as the hull. I'll try to get a progress photo up tonight.

sumpter250 wrote:

Taegu is coming along well! I'll ask the dumb question,what is Aves? Is that Apoxie Sculpt?

Thank you!

Yes, Aves is the company that makes Apoxie Sculpt.  I was just too lazy to type two words!

The Enterprise E kit is a 1/1400 scale kit. I was really hoping to build in 1/537 (1/530, 1/550) scale to go along with Farragut, Firestone, and eventually Kodiak.

Well, look on the bright side, soon you'll be able to recreate the Kodiak in 1/1000!!

Well, look on the bright side, soon you'll be able to recreate the Kodiak in 1/1000!!

Or.....scratchbuild it in 1/530............whoa, did I just say that!

 In this first photo, the partially skinned secondary hull, and the beginnings of the warp nacelles. The nacelles started with 0.9xxxx" Estes rocket body tubes. I've started layering on the styrene, and will "bulk up" the ends before shaping them, and adding detail.  

in this photo, I keep the project "assembled" as I go, it helps maintain proportion, and keeps me focused on the end product. I will try to include this positioning of parts, right up to the end. the supports used to hold thing in place will eventually become the "jig" for the final assembly, so that everything stays in the right relationship to the other parts.

Progress at last! Here's the secondary hull, and warp nacelles with a skin of styrene.

The small craft is a 1:555 scale two man heavy fighter bomber, and is the original. I've built it in 1:72, and in 1:48

this is the 1:48 version

Next up is to fill in the gaps and voids with Apoxie sculpt. What would be the best "solvent" fro use with the Apoxie sculpt. I've used Squadron green, and white, with Testors liquid plastic cement as a solvent, but I haven't used the Apoxie sculpt before. 

A little progress:

Here's the secondary hull and warp nacelles. The description in Jackill's, states "the extended secondary hull, is attached directly to the primary hull".  there is a small "pylon" that seems to be indicated in the drawings, that is what has been modeled.

Here, again everything placed together:

and finally, here are the two pylons with megaphasers, that are the end supports for the "wing" and upper photon torpedo tubes(seen in the above photo in the "Reliant" mode), and the forward, and aft deflector housings. The actual deflector, are cut from the bowls of "Wendy's" plastic spoons! (the chili, and baked potato were good, the inspiration even better)

Some progress; the secondary hull has panel lines scribed in, the warp nacelles are just a few details away from being complete. Fairly soon now I'll be able to attach the primary hull, and begin detailing there. I'm not looking forward to "first primer", where I finally "see" all the defects, and blemishes.......but......they won't get fixed unless I can see them soooo....

shot from above the starboard quarter. 

Aft nav deflector, built up from a plastic spoon. 

upper secondary hull details. 

low angle starboard quarter. 

Starboard side. 

I spent the better part of Sunday doing the full scale drawing of the three tube(forward, and aft) photon torbedo bay, which will mount under the forward part of the secondary hull. The warp nacelles used almost forty strips of .030" X .030" styrene strips....Evergreen Styrene will be "green" for a bit longer now! What use I've made of the Apoxie Sculpt, has come out well! I still have some learning to do with that medium. I'll ask the dumb question for the day- is there a specific Aztec pattern for each class of vessel?.....or can I just "fake it"? There's not a lot of photo reference for the Kodiak Class Battleships.

I'm looking at a possible "Command Cruiser" for my next kitbash Star Fleet vessel. There's a couple of others that are interesting, and I have a few kits in stock. 

This shot is the secondary hull, with warp nacelles attached; 

Bottom view of secondary hull and nacelles; 

The hole in the center of the photon torp bay, is for the 1/8" steel rod that supports the model on the display base. You can also see the 18 "windows" of the botanical section; 

This is the top view, looking forward, of the secondary hull, and warp nacelles; 

The two holes aft of the pylon in this shot, are for the screws that will attach the prinary hull's lower section, to the secondary hull. There is a third screw hole between the horizontal, and vertical pylon cross braces. This is the last shot of the secondary hull, by itself. I will be permanently attaching the primary hull, and begin detailing it.

Primary hull lower half, with styrene "reinforcements" and the three mounting screws; 

This closeup shot shows the screws in place with the reinforcements;  

Far better than yours ever was???? If that's true, it's only because I've learned from my past mistakes. We're all, only as good as our current achievement. We'll all be better, "next time". 

When I first built the Battle Cruiser, "Firestone", I wanted to build the Kodiak. I am very happy that I got to do that, in this manner, in this forum.

The primary hull assembly is just about done, and there's putty that has to be applied to the "joints/gaps/mistakes". The drawing isn't too clear about the structure where the megaphaser pylons, that support the upper photon torp pod, attach to the primary hull. I'm going to have to exercise some "creative artistic liscence" in finishing this area. The next pictures that I post will be the finished/pre-paint.

I have one major decision left, that is paint. Do I go with the "standard, kit recommended, paint scheme?  Or, do I get creative, and do an aztec pattern. Do I shoot all gloss, decal, and then shoot a flat coat? Or, do I shoot all flat, overglaze, decal, and flat. I have run into problems shooting an overglaze before, but, all gloss tends to build up a heavier coat of paint. I'll have to play with some scrap material and the paints I will use to see which will be the better way to go.

I saved the shipschematics.net JPEG image of the Kodiak drawings, to disk, imported it into Autocad at "full size", and printed out the profile drawing and pieced it together. The reward for this was seeing that the model did indeed scale up well. The discrepancies that do exist are mostly due to the accuracy of measuring the small drawing in the Jackill's book.....and a couple of forehead slapping "duh's", caught too late to correct. Transferring the panel lines from the drawing, to the compound curves of the model, was the hardest, and most easily botched. It didn't help that the surface of the model ended up not exactly what it was intended to be. Still, the scratchbuild part of this was a first time undertaking, and turned out well enough, considering. I am pleased with results.

This weekend I have a train show, and next week is my annual "disappear off the face of the earth" week. There won't be any progress on Kodiak until after all that. 

This is a port side shot of Kodiak, with a "close to full size" copy of the Jackill's drawing for reference.

And here, another portside shot. The vessel in the background is a Jenghiz class Destroyer. I actually started that back when I built Firestone, and decided to include it in this build and paint it at the same time as Kodiak. 

I'm at the paint stage now, construction is complete( except for any "fixes" needed when I have the model all one color ). I'm still trying to figure out what the (blast of the ship's whistle) the colors/rules/convention/etc. makes up the "Aztec pattern". I'll keep looking, but the countdown to paint is set, and running. It'll be "Standard Box Kit Scheme", if I can't find answers soon

Fantastic!  I can't wait to see her in full paint!

I've been working a bit on the Taegu tonight.  I'm cutting up the highlighter caps so I can insert some bussard collectors.  I'll post some pics soon.

 I shot some flat white as a primer, this afternoon, and I'm very pleased with how little I've seen in the way of surface defects!!! Once the primer is dry, I can take a closer look, but I may have found and fixed most of them already!!. . . . .Yes, I can say "Surprise!"

I'm looking at a Podesti class cruiser for my next project. I have the deflector housing, and the hangar bay piece left over from the Firestone build, and a pair of nacelles from the Kodiak build. All I need to do from scratch, is the secondary hull, and the hull pylon. After Kodiak, that should be fairly easy. 

Here's a quick shot of Kodiak with a little paint, accompanied by USS Farragut NCC1702, and an as yet unnamed Jenghiz class destroyer

Here's a quick shot of Kodiak with a little paint, accompanied by USS Farragut NCC1702, and an as yet unnamed Jenghiz class destroyer

Well, duh!, the AMT "Reliant" kit doesn't have the saucer rim view ports cast into the saucer. I, for whatever dumb reason, never caught that before assembling and painting the primary hull! 96 holes, and 48 cutouts later....!  Been reviewing the movies, looking for any details that might be missing, in addition to the view ports, and making notes on what painting has to be done that wasn't in any of the kit instructions. "reliant" doesn't get a lot of time in "light" so it's hard to tell.

I am getting close to a coat of gloss, so that decals can be applied. So far, so good. The Podesti class cruiser is assembled. The scratchbuilt section of the secondary hull, came out well enough. I am slowly learning how to fabricate "rounded shapes" with sheet styrene.......it's been an "interesting" learning curve.

In these two pics kodiak stardoard side, and bow.  

Here, the Podesti class Cruiser. Major assembly is done. The secondary hull, from the forward nav. deflector, back to the middle of the warp pylon attachment point, the hull pylon (dorsal), and the lower photon torpedo bay, are scratchbuilt. The deflector and housing, and the aft end of the hull with the hangar bay, were leftover from the Firestone build.  Filling/sanding/etc. is next. 

I don't think I mentioned before, but I use Autocad, for drawings. When I cut in the windows of the botanical section on the secondary hull, I first printed out the drawing, taped it in place, and then cut out each window with a #11 Xacto blade. The resulting cuts in the Styrene, became the cutting guides for the window edges. A second printout, taped to a piece of masking tape, on a glass plate, enabled me to cut the exact same window pattern into the strip of masking tape, which then was laid over the windows, and burnished down.

I used the light ghost gray FS36375, applied to a "cosmetic wedge", to stencil in the windows. What's a "cosmetic wedge"? you ask? Why its a very smooth foam "rubber" pad, 1" X 1-3/4" X 3/4", that tapers down to 3/16" X 1", at one end, that the girls use for liquid foundation application, and other makeup, available at any place where cosmetics are sold. It's amazing what you learn with four daughters in the house. It worked far better than expected! I'll have to set up and try to get a close up picture of the windows. The "stencilling" helps prevent paint from creeping under the edge of the tape, and the wedge is fine enough and soft enough to hold the paint well....like a superfine "foam / disposable" paint brush.

Most of the major painting is done now. I have to start any of the brush painting, and then shoot a clear gloss.This shot is a close up of the lower photon torpedo bay: 

Here, a complete underside shot: 

here, starboard forward quarter. I still have a few more viewports to open in the forward bulkhead of the raised portion of the primary hull. In this shot you can see some that have already been opened up. There are some in the after sides that also need to be drilled out and shaped.

eightyeightfan1, a fellow moderator on another forum, photoshopped the starfield in these two shots! I had to put them up here for "your viewing pleasure"

  Kodiak is done.

As I stated earlier, this group build, gave me the opportunity to finally build Kodiak. It was a fun build, and a true learning experience. I have to order up three more decal sets, and I can finish the Podesti class cruiser, the Jenghiz class destroyer, and start the Hatfield class command cruiser. The command cruiser will require some serious reworking of a "Reliant kit" for the primary hull. Here's the pictures of kodiak; 

Starboard side:

Starboard 3/4 head on:

Port quarter:

Aft port:                   

Head on from above:

Port side, on the display stand:

Before I go another step, one thing must be understood. I am retired, and my time is mine to spend as I wish. I haven't slept much since the actual completion of Kodiac, which was several days before I posted the pictures.

The Jenghiz class destroyer will be; USS Shaitan NCC 519, the Podesti class Cruiser will be; USS Newport NCC 2418 (I've posted pics of those two before), and the Hatfield class Command Cruiser will be; USS Navarone NCC 2021. Here's the Navarone, most of the major assembly work/modifications are done, and these shots show her with primary and secondary hulls finally joined.

I'll post a few more shots of Navarone when the glue sets hard, and I can move her around. 

I removed close to two inches off the aft end of the "Reliant" hull, the detail above the port landing bay was also removed, and the blank area filled in. The megaphasers,and pylons were left over from Kodiac, the secondary hull, left over from the Newport, the warp engines and primary hull were another "reliant", and the only scratchbuilt parts were the three warp pylons. Hey!, I was on a roll!  I also have now completely depleted my stash of TMG Star Trek kits, so it's time to find another project...........most likely that HO scale 2-4-2. :) :)  I'm waiting for decal sets to be restocked, so I can detail the three ships. 

Prince of Styrene II wrote:

Apologies for not commenting earlier, but I just got back from vacation.  Your Kodiak looks marvelous!  Clean, solid, muscular... just a great build all around.

Apologies accepted, but were not required.......It was a fun build, and I really like the look of the battleship class. I reported, in error, that I had used the last of my "Trek" stash, there is one "Enterprise" kit up on the shelf. I'm considering using the primary hull, and warp engines, for a "Dakota Class" heavy shuttle carrier. Some of the removed detail parts from the last "Reliant" could become masters for some resin castings. I'm looking at a model that will be 26-1/2" long!

Started work on a new set of three,HO scale modules....(National Train Show is in Milwaukee, next year, and I'd like to have something new to show there)...it may be "a while" before the carrier gets started. Still waiting for decals for Navarone, Shaitan, and Newport.