Thanks, Cliff! 

"I do most of my handbrushing of figures etc with Vallejo Model Color. I rarely use anything but acrylics- frankly I've gotten to hate enamel and other sorts of paints."

Interesting! I am going the opposite way. Maybe in time I will flip back. If I do it might be the fuming that makes it so. But for now, I am loving the simplicity of lacquer. 

Update: when I say simplicity, I mean with airbrushing.

"I know you just said you are done with acrylics, but have you tried brush painting with Vallejo Model Color (not Model Air)? What I do is put some distilled water (distilled because of my anal-retentive nature) in the pallet cup next to the drops of paint I'm using, dip the brush in the water, maybe flip it off a little, then dip some Model Color on. Once you do it some, it sort of all falls into place."

Hi Greg, I tried your method last night and I am sorry to report I couldnt get the results you do. The paint either went on too watery, or if I cut back on the water brush soak, too thick. In the case of watery, terrible coverage. In the case of too thick, I get streaky coverage until the paint starts setting and then it really goes south after that. It's like you have to lay it fast then stop messing with it. Problem is... I have to mess with it because it's too thick and coverage is not even.

I don't know. I just can't get it to work. I wish I could.

Btw. I recall GMorrison posting a few times on this subject and he states you have to apply thin layers and build the coverage. Seeing how these paints react for me, that make sence to me. Kind of sounds like a pain, but so is masking. The problem I see is getting smooth layers. How do you get thin layers without the paint clumping and or balling up. Paint retarder maybe?  Flow improver? Problem with that, with Vallejo, adding that stuff extends an already long cure time to almost rediculous. And you'd want to wait for the paint to cure before adding each layer, I would think. Or the subsequent layer could start pulling up. Maybe Bill will chime in.

hey steve , finally found you . I can't help with the hand painting , I mostly airbrush , but everything you've done looks great .

Bakster

The problem I see is getting smooth layers. How do you get thin layers without the paint clumping and or balling up. Paint retarder maybe? Flow improver? Problem with that, with Vallejo, adding that stuff extends an already long cure time to almost rediculous. And you'd want to wait for the paint to cure before adding each layer, I would think. Or the subsequent layer could start pulling up.

It is possible to get smooth layers, but I don't like using flow improver or airbrush thinner when brushing MC as it softens/dissolves the underlying layer of paint on me.

For me it's method plus paint prep.  It took a couple of models with lumpy paint for me to figure it out.  Don't want to bloat this with a post on personal painting methods.  If there's interest just let me know and can send a PM.

steve5

hey steve , finally found you . I can't help with the hand painting , I mostly airbrush , but everything you've done looks great .

 

Hey Steve, thanks for looking in and posting. No worries about the hand painting.

PhoenixG

 

 

Bakster

The problem I see is getting smooth layers. How do you get thin layers without the paint clumping and or balling up. Paint retarder maybe? Flow improver? Problem with that, with Vallejo, adding that stuff extends an already long cure time to almost rediculous. And you'd want to wait for the paint to cure before adding each layer, I would think. Or the subsequent layer could start pulling up.

 

 

It is possible to get smooth layers, but I don't like using flow improver or airbrush thinner when brushing MC as it softens/dissolves the underlying layer of paint on me.

For me it's method plus paint prep.  It took a couple of models with lumpy paint for me to figure it out.  Don't want to bloat this with a post on personal painting methods.  If there's interest just let me know and can send a PM.

 

 

Phoenix, I am always interested in learning. Unfortunately, the PM function is still not working for me. I tell you what. I will start a thread in the painting section. Look for it there and you can share your process.

Thanks in advance?

The bookcase assemblies are not done but the worst is over with. With all the meticulous masking I did on the books, that is about 1.5 weeks of work. Hence why I would have loved to hand brush it. In the case of the latter, it would have been done in one to two nights work.

Anyhow-- it's been a while since I posted an update. So, here is image

Next up I need to paint the white portions an iron. That should be easy compared to what I just did. That is, barring any Gremlins rearing their ugly faces.

Steve

I forgot to note: The books are painted with Tamiya LP series lacquer. Stinky stuff but it sprays well, dries fast, and seems to have good adhesion. I was masking over it shortly after painting. I top coated using Testors Dullcote.

Bakster

Phoenix, I am always interested in learning. Unfortunately, the PM function is still not working for me. I tell you what. I will start a thread in the painting section. Look for it there and you can share your process. Thanks in advance?

Bakster,

I haven't used PM in months and just discovered it doesn't work for me either.  Found your other thread and just finished a War & Peace post in it.  If I'm lucky there's something useful in it. 

The book cases turned out fantastic.  Your masking job was superb!

PhoenixG

 

 

Bakster

Phoenix, I am always interested in learning. Unfortunately, the PM function is still not working for me. I tell you what. I will start a thread in the painting section. Look for it there and you can share your process. Thanks in advance?

 

 

Bakster,

I haven't used PM in months and just discovered it doesn't work for me either.  Found your other thread and just finished a War & Peace post in it.  If I'm lucky there's something useful in it. 

 

Cool! I will check it out asap!

PhoenixG

The book cases turned out fantastic.  Your masking job was superb!

 

Bakster

The bookcase assemblies are not done but the worst is over with. With all the meticulous masking I did on the books, that is about 1.5 weeks of work. 

Steve

 

Very good work on the books. They look like a first class library now. 

Oh, Bye the bye, the 3d book on the second left hand shelf is out of order with the 4th book but most folks likely will not notice, I also suppose you're waiting to add the gold leaf titles ‘til later

DUSTER

 

 

Bakster

The bookcase assemblies are not done but the worst is over with. With all the meticulous masking I did on the books, that is about 1.5 weeks of work. 

Steve

 

 

 

 

Very good work on the books. They look like a first class library now. 

Oh, Bye the bye, the 3d book on the second left hand shelf is out of order with the 4th book but most folks likely will not notice, I also suppose you're waiting to add the gold leaf titles ‘til later

 

Hey that is funny about the gold leaf! Now because of your joke, I have to give the extended version of my post.

What I left out is the journey I took on this. My initial attempt was to mask. I began that process but I quickly realized it was going to be much more work than I wanted. That set me on the path of hand painting. I experimented with everything I could think of, including artist oils. They all flopped for me. So, I set out to start masking again. Once again, I decided that this is ridiculously time consuming, and I questioned if it was worth the effort. I stopped to consider my options.

Then it hit me. How would it be if I made decals? On one hand I liked the idea, on the other hand it would be a lot of work as well. From making the graphics, to printing, to sealing, to fitting, to installing. I hated the idea of all that but then I hit on the idea of making the books in blocks of color, rather than each book being different. That would simplify it.

I headed to Hobbylobby to buy some decal film. I made the graphics, printed, sealed, cut, and applied one. It looked like garbage! The problem? The decal film they sell is thick and it does not conform. The end result was like I slapped plastic onto the books and it wiped out the binding detail. It made it look like it was one big book. I scrapped the idea.

Going with a decal might have worked if I had ordered better decal film. I used some on my Icarus build that might have worked better. I can't remember the brand, I'd have to look that up. And if it did... then I could have added more detai to the binding. At this scale, the writing would not be legible. None the less, it could make for a nice illusion of being there. Maybe another model, maybe another time.

So, it was back to masking. I had to stop my complaining and just do it. Too much work or not. And that is the uncut version.

Looks great to me Bakster!!! 

When hand brushing Vallejo paint I squirt a little on a piece of plastic like a fast food container and then add a little thinner. The thinner is about 50/50 water and Future with a few drops of retarder added. I mix the two using a toothpick. As the paint dries out I add a little more thinner. 

Bakster, I would never doubt your commitment to creating, in this case, the book covers.  

I would agree, a thinner decal film would no doubt have been more effective. But regardless, the work you have accomplished is outstanding and no quibbling from this peanut gallery will change that.

Again, well done and  I’m looking forward to the next installment.

DUSTER

Bakster, I would never doubt your commitment to creating, in this case, the book covers.  

I would agree, a thinner decal film would no doubt have been more effective. But regardless, the work you have accomplished is outstanding and no quibbling from this peanut gallery will change that.

Again, well done and  I’m looking forward to the next installment.

 

 

Thanks , Duster. You are too kind sir.

Thanks, Gam.  Thanks for the brush painting tip too..

Steve!

     On Which? I like that you have all the books well set and shelved in the Library, Observation Parlor. "Now, Dear Sir, on which Shelf and which side will I find the Great Verne Novel?"" You know the one about that strange inventor and His Strange  underwater craft?" "Pure Balderdash I say:! "No one can make an Iron Boat go Underwater and come to the Surface too! " "Purely Preposterous, I Say"

       See! Darn it,You are doing such a great job you've put me in the Mood!

Technical difficulties.  See next post.

Hey TB, I think the Verne novel is the open book below. He displays it for guests so that they can marvel at his prowess. 

See! Darn it,You are doing such a great job you've put me in the Mood!

I have been told that before, that I put people in a mood. 

Thanks for chiming in there, TB! 

Books are hard to render realistically.

Looks fantastic to me Bakster. 

Did you try maybe putting a teeny bit of wash in the gap between the book spines to deepen the shadows there? It's the only thing I'd suggest. 

Did you try maybe putting a teeny bit of wash in the gap between the book spines to deepen the shadows there? It's the only thing I'd suggest. 

Hi Gam, actually I did that on one section. I applied too much and it dirtied them down too much, but that is my fault. A little bit as you suggest is the better plan. I will do that at some point.

Thanks brother!

CapnMac82

Books are hard to render realistically.

 

Indeed.

My goal at this scale is to make it as clean as I can. By that I mean, masked well, and painted to scale. Because in the end, I just want to create a mood of realism...not to make complete realism. You won't see all the detail either way. But...you WILL probably see wavy lines and thick clumpy paint. The latter, for me, kills the mood of realism. 

my god , that's fantastic steve , and I thought rigging ship's was fiddly . 

steve5

my god , that's fantastic steve , and I thought rigging ship's was fiddly . 

 

Hey thanks Mate!

Making forward progress.

1. The bulkhead is a mix of three colors, all Tamiya LP series paint. I used two grays and third is a sort of rust. I then applied a wash, dry brushed more rust, and even a colored pencil came into the picture. A final seal of MRP clear being a mix of flat and gloss. The overall muddle of color is in keeping with the Disney prop. The sub was quite dank.

2. The pipes sprayed with Alclad brass, then a wash, then a clear. Again-- the Disney prop was dark and dank. My version is clean in comparison. I am not shooting for exact. On this I wanted to keep it somewhat clean. The wash helped tone down the Alcad brightness.

Not assembled but for a sneak peek I positioned these. Having only the center rows opened in the ceiling will create interesting lighting effects.

I have two things left to paint with the interior and that is the pipe organ chair cushion and the globe with stand. I am tossing around converting the globe to something else. Maybe a crystal or something. Heck -- I could even light it. Not sure. Open to ideas...

I plan to make a rug as well. I have seen other builds do that and to good effect.

Thats all for now.

Fantastic job of making it subtle.  The hints of rust on the walls reinforces the idea the study is in a sea going vessel.  It creates an interesting contrast between the richness  of the wood colors and utility of the steel walls.  Hints of the comfort of home with the subconcious reminder you haven't left the confines of the ship.  Amazing work!