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Nemo's Nautilus

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  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Sandusky Ohio, USA
Nemo's Nautilus
Posted by Swanny on Wednesday, May 22, 2013 8:52 AM

A new build but what could it be? Cutting first plastic last night preparing for inserts.

I need to remove all 16 of those panels for this project. When this part is complete it shall be done in wood tones with iron accents.

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Wednesday, May 22, 2013 7:32 PM

That's cool! Are the open panels your own mod? To be covered with something translucent?

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Sandusky Ohio, USA
Posted by Swanny on Wednesday, May 22, 2013 7:53 PM

There is an aftermarket for this which just came out a few days ago. Here all the panels are now removed

Now some photoetch is being laid in. I think I'll be filling the areas inside the main beams. In the end there will be LEDs involved.

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Sandusky Ohio, USA
Posted by Swanny on Friday, May 24, 2013 8:34 AM

Ready for some paint. I filled the beam with red Bondo glazing compound.

  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Greenville, NC
Posted by jtilley on Friday, May 24, 2013 9:01 AM

Well, the hint about recently released photo-etched parts tipped me off.  This is the Nautilus, from Jules Verne's 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea.  The basic kit is made by Pegasus Models; it and the photo-etched set are listed by Freetime Hobbies.

I've seen quite a few models of this fictitious submarine over the years.  The only thing that makes me raise my eyebrows a little bit is that all the kits I've seen have been based (more or less) on the ship in the Disney movie.  It's a fun movie (where else can you hear Kirk Douglas sing?), but the ship is the invention of the Disney designers - not Jules Verne.

Quite a few years ago the Naval Institute Press published a beautiful edition of 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea, with superb reproductions of the engravings that appeared in the original edition (or one published shortly thereafter - while Verne was alive).  The pictures show the Nautilus as a very simple shape - more-or-less a cylinder with pointed ends.  The text of the book describes something similar.

What we're talking about here, of course, is a completely fictitious subject, so no normal criteria of accuracy really apply.  And the Pegasus version certainly isn't identical to the ship in the movie; it looks like the kit designers added a good deal from their own imaginations.  The modeler surely ought to feel give his/her imagination free rein on a project like this.  I do think, though, that it's appropriate to acknowledge the genius of the Disney people alongside the genius of Jules Verne.

Youth, talent, hard work, and enthusiasm are no match for old age and treachery.

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Sandusky Ohio, USA
Posted by Swanny on Friday, May 24, 2013 10:28 AM

This kit is 'inspired by' the Harper Goff design used by Disney. Since Disney holds such a tight grasp on the license it's extremely unlikely that any company will do a production injection molded kit, just not fiscally practical. You are right in that the Jules Verne sub was described as a very utilitarian cigar shaped vehicle but come on, who can resist a good Steampunk sub? Now I just need a Fichtenfoo Squid sub to go with it!!!!

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Friday, May 24, 2013 2:20 PM

I'd like to find a model of the 1930- 1931 Wilkins Nautilus.


Matt that's a nice project and animation will do her proud. Eager to see this go forward.

BTW I stole a look over on Swanny's and discovered what you are up to, but didn't want to give it away...

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Sandusky Ohio, USA
Posted by Swanny on Friday, May 24, 2013 2:28 PM

Heh heh, that's cheating!

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Sandusky Ohio, USA
Posted by Swanny on Sunday, May 26, 2013 11:16 AM

The ceiling section is done (other than the actual lights) and I'm ready to look at the floor.

 Here the viewing sofa is in place. I'm working on other kit included details plus some other items to flush things out.

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Sandusky Ohio, USA
Posted by Swanny on Sunday, May 26, 2013 3:43 PM

Coming along nicely. About 85% of the way there.

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Sandusky Ohio, USA
Posted by Swanny on Monday, May 27, 2013 1:14 PM

Just need to add people and lights.

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Cave City, KY
Posted by Watchmann on Monday, May 27, 2013 5:52 PM

Very nice Matt.  I picked up my copy at Wonderfest the other week.  I didn't get the aftermarket PE, tho.

I really like your rugs.  I'll have to make some for mine. :)  I think some velvet curtains are in order.

Will you be using the Kraken for your display base?  I'd like to use it, but I want to light mine up as well, and I'm trying to figure out how to wire it through the squid.

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Sandusky Ohio, USA
Posted by Swanny on Monday, May 27, 2013 7:24 PM

Go to Radio Shack and look at the very fine magnet wire. It uses a lacquered insulation rather than the thick plastic we normally think of. As such it is very easy to hide alongside one of the squid arms. I'll be doing that on mine but another idea I had was to pick up some plastic tiny vines from the craft store and add them as seaweed and run the magnet wire through them.

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Cave City, KY
Posted by Watchmann on Tuesday, May 28, 2013 8:57 AM

Thanks Matt, that's a good idea.  I used that kind of wire when I put lights in the engine nacells of the Enterprise D.

  • Member since
    August 2008
Posted by tankerbuilder on Saturday, June 8, 2013 8:31 AM

PROFFESSOR !

    I am amazed you missed one ! There is a PAPER model based on the description in the translated first edition of the ORIGINAL FRENCH printing  of this great book . This model is put out by DEUTSCHES SCHIFFARTSMUSEUM . It is definitely based on the book . It somewhat resembles the DISNEY boat , BUT , there are very many large differences in the design . I got mine from PAPERMODELS INTERNATIONAL some years before they went bottom up .It is in 1/100 scale and has the FULL interior . Most (darned near all ) of the writing and parts listings are in GERMAN , but , she's fairly straightforward in build sequence .

    Now , this one is so fascinating , it behooved me to start using the sheets as patterns to create her in plastic .I have the plan drawings done and now I have to transfer it to plastic sheet . I intend to build her out of .015 sheet .Why ? well the paper is almost .010 cardstock thick .I figured that going to .015 would be wise while staying to the purity of the design .I will use a LOT of found parts and brass in her build .the organ for instance is a organ from a keychain type thing with real brass sound tubes . I will tell you this much .This PAPER model is fully color printed including the metallic finish on the hull .There is an exploded drawing inside the back cover showing the thousands of parts .Yes thousands . I think there are at least fifteen hundred parts .

  The other nice thing is the full color picture of the model on the cover AND the period art on  both the inside and outside of the parts book . If interested , I think P.M.I. may be in business again , I am not sure .here's an address for any who wish to buy it direct ? Gedruckt mit Mitteln des F'or'derveriens Deutsches Schiffartsmuseum e. V. 27568 Bremerhaven . P.M.I. also gave you a description and building hints on a loose page inside the book . Just a reminder , this sub is based on the 1870 printing and artwork . Check it out ! Thanks for being our Proffesor in residence .       Tanker-Builder       OOPS ! I forgot to give the full title on the front of the model book  .It is Unterseeboot NAUTILUS , erdacht 1870 f'u'r Kapit'a'n Nemo von Jules Verne  Also forgive the attempt at umlats .I don't know how to get this computer to do that .

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Sandusky Ohio, USA
Posted by Swanny on Thursday, June 27, 2013 6:16 AM

I would love to see a scan of that artwork.

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Sandusky Ohio, USA
Posted by Swanny on Tuesday, July 2, 2013 9:27 AM

This week I am working on the ventral fin area. In the middle of this 'fin' is a set of large grills, the PE set includes a replacement set of grills for this area. I want to introduce a dull red glow inside this area so am removing the inside plastic, adding some base color paint before attaching the new grills then will work on adding a lighting effect here.

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Cave City, KY
Posted by Watchmann on Tuesday, July 2, 2013 12:15 PM

Thanks for the update!  What color are you using for the base, brass?

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Spartanburg, SC
Posted by subfixer on Tuesday, July 2, 2013 1:19 PM

Neat stuff there, Swanny!

I'm from the government and I'm here to help.

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Sandusky Ohio, USA
Posted by Swanny on Tuesday, July 2, 2013 1:55 PM

The base color is Alclad copper.

  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by pebbleworm on Tuesday, July 2, 2013 3:48 PM

Here is a link to the Nautilus paper model-

www.dsm.museum/.../unterseeboot-nautilus-erdacht-1870-fuer-kapitaen-nemo-von-jules-verne.4413.de.html

Only 10 euros, and gave me a chance to practice my awful German...

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Tuesday, July 2, 2013 4:14 PM

Wow,this is going to be a great project,really different and interesting.Looking forward to it.

  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by pebbleworm on Wednesday, July 3, 2013 4:11 PM

RE: the Wilkins Nautilus, I've thought about the same thing- jimmy the scale on a Heller Surcouf hull and you have something roughly the right shape, and the Wilkins Polar  superstructure  should draw attention away from any inconsistencies  If you want something a little close, I think you'll have to start with a block of wood.  Some good references to start with are at:

www.navsource.org/.../08073.htm

And the Surcouf kit:

www.internetmodeler.com/.../Heller-1-400-Surcouf-Submarine.php

I really like this Pegasus Nautilus kit- the Alclad copper looks great!

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Thursday, July 4, 2013 11:22 AM

Swanny, very cool, looking forward to seeing her come together!

Hmm, personally I've always preferred the more fanciful Disney version over the more realistic versions from the original novel and some of the other renderings.

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    August 2007
  • From: back country of SO-CAL, at the birth place of Naval Aviation
Posted by DUSTER on Friday, July 5, 2013 11:38 PM

tankerbuilder

 Also forgive the attempt at umlats .I don't know how to get this computer to do that .

FYI   hold ALT and type 0168 = ¨  

 


now back to your regularly scheduled WIP


Steve

Building the perfect model---just not quite yet  Confused

  • Member since
    June 2012
Posted by arnie60 on Saturday, July 6, 2013 11:08 AM

PS.... you have to use the number key pad or it will not work.

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Sandusky Ohio, USA
Posted by Swanny on Monday, July 8, 2013 8:52 AM

Moving right along the grills are in place and the final top color is shot. The top color is Model Master burnt iron. Still have a little buffing and touch-up to do. I used some transparent red on both sides of some clear sheet followed by a couple coats of dull coat to make a light filter which goes inside the grill after paint. Some crumbled aluminum foil is used to make a reflector and a 3mm water clear red LED mounted inside the fin. Pictures of the lit fin coming tomorrow.

While this is drying I'll start work on the search light. I really want to have the light functional and I have seen other modelers install some fiber optic line in there but it is awkward in my opinion. I'm starting with the base light, installing some leads for an LED then using this to make an RTV mold. Once the mold is complete I install a 1.8mm LED into the mold and pour slow set clear resin. This needs 24 hours to cure and as I write this it is about half way through the cure process. Once done I should be able to paint the back side of the light and have a functional piece with no bulky optic cable coming out the rear.

  • Member since
    December 2012
Posted by rwiederrich on Tuesday, July 9, 2013 5:59 PM

Swanny...where did you get this model.......?

Rob

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Sandusky Ohio, USA
Posted by Swanny on Wednesday, July 10, 2013 6:42 AM

Mega Hobby

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Sandusky Ohio, USA
Posted by Swanny on Monday, July 15, 2013 2:07 PM

Ventral fin is complete now plus I finally found some figures that are properly scaled to the interior furnishings. These are 1/120 or TT scale railroad figures.

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