Revell 1:83 Mayflower

GMorrison

 

 

Bakster

 

 

 

 

Once again proving Morrison's Third Law of Modeling:

 

"No matter how large the workbench, the available

workspace is always exactly two square feet".

 

Morrison...you made my day buddy. I am in tears laughing. My other bench is the same way. What you said is so dang true. 

It's a slow night...

There is not much on TV--so I will annoy you good peeps. 

I did do a little work in terms of prepping the deadeyes for sealing. Tomorrow, I will head over to the store for some Dulcote. 

For fun sake...here is my other bench. This is the helm that a 1000 indecisions have been launched from. 

Morrison--you might enjoy this nugget. Notice the clutter on the upper part of the bench? Well, I had two problems.  

1. The bench was a little too high for me to comfortably work at. I'd either need to get a tall stool, or stand and stoop. Neither was a very good option for me. 

2. I struggled with space. There is always too much clutter.

So, I had a brainstorm. How can I build a work-area at a lower level, and one that I could try and keep clean from clutter?  Ah ha! I could pull the two lower drawers out and lay a board across the top of them!

I went to Menards and they had a board that was just the right size. I bought it, and dang! That fits nice... But guess what? I still always have stuff around the work area. The Morrison Third Law of Modeling still applies. I can't escape it! It is an immutable law. I think that if I bought a second bench and tossed everything on the second bench, I'd still somehow manage to clutter up the first one. 

Lastly, and this is not related to this build. Have you seen this glue? I noticed it at Michaels. This glue is truly clear. This offers some possibilities for our hobby. I can imagine canopy glue for one.

I am running a test. I poured some into the bottle to see how this will end up curing in larger doses. I will let you know what happens when I get there.

Ok.  I think that I have annoyed you enough.

Good night.

Ok well...another change in direction. I said that I was done experimenting, but something told me to try one more time. What I found is that it didn't work so well using the copper wire to tie the chain. What was happening is that the metal on metal tended to bind against each other. This made it a bit of a struggle to cinch, and I was not able to get a nice, tight, tie-off. 

In the end... I am going with JT's initial suggestion. I will use string to anchor the chain to the strop. That worked easily and smartly. 

Below: I fed the string through the gap of the strop and deadeye. At this point, I twist the two wires tightening the strop around the deadeye, and securing the string within the assembly.

Below: I cut the excess wire and dabbed some CA to the nub for good measure.

A few other things that I can note:

1. Applying the dullcote went without a hitch. It was a fun process.

2. My little experiment with the clear Elmers appears to be a bust. The glue is not curing. Maybe over a very long time it will, but who needs that nonsense. All is not lost though. It does cure like the white glue when I applied it on a wood stick. It took about 3 days to do so, but it worked, and it dried crystal clear. So, it still has hope for certain applications. For some reason, maybe because of the volume of it in the little jar, its not so good. My hope was that maybe it can be used for dioramas, such as for water. It probably still can, but maybe it would have to be applied in layers. I have more experimenting to do.

What's this thing...

When I was throwing around ideas on how I would anchor the chains, I talked about gluing the backing link/chain anchors to the inner wall of the ship. Though, I think this would work, the tight space could make it tedious, messy, and time consuming. I decided to go the extra mile and make a sort of connection bar. I experimented with spare sprue, but I quickly opted to go with some square Evergreen that I found in my stash. It is less work to process the pieces. I cut, notched, and heated the Evergreen piece so that with a little pressure I can get them to conform to the curve of the hull for maximum glue connection. The notched side will be glued to inner wall of the hull, just below the holes.

Below: You can see what I am going after with this piece glued in place. Wire will be wrapped around the lower chain and the two ends fed into the hull at the backing link. One wire will be fed down through the notch and bent around to meet the other wire. Then both ends will be twisted together against the connection bar. This then anchors the lower chain to the backing link. Its crude looking, but it is not something that is seen. 

I will finish the rest of these today. Tomorrow, I will start working on the anchor wires. All the deadeyes are stroped and ready to go. I am getting close to actually doing this. 

Fingers are crossed.

Problems...problems...problems, and one near disaster.

First off, there is a main locating pin near the bow that was in the way of my adding a junction bar. In fact, one of the backing link holes on the fore chainplate came out smack dab in the middle of that locating pin. There was no actual exit into the hull. Rather, it exited into the hollow locating pin. Sigh. I had no choice but to completely remove that locating pin. Hopefully, that won't affect the structure of this build. I doubt it, but the gremlins keep coming, so one does not ever know.

Secondly, I averted a disaster at the mizzen plate. I was letting a mizzen junction bar set with glue when it hit me... "wait a second, the mizzen plate sits up higher than the main and fore plates. How will what I am doing here affect the decking?"

Egads... it will. It would undoubtedly interfere with the main deck and it will surely interfere with my installing it. It has to come off and a new plan must be hatched. So I pulled that piece off before it would set. Now what. So instead, I used a smaller piece of sprue that should clear the deck and allow me to install it...hopefully. 

Below: You can see the size difference between the two pieces that I made. By the way. In this same image you can see that I cut the stern locating pin. I had to do that in order to fit the main deck that now includes a light assembly. The light canister that I built bumped up against that locating pin. I guess that these are the pitfalls of when you try to work outside of the box.

Lastly, I have a testimony about good lighting. I was really struggling to see into the hull. It is seriously dark in there. I twist the hull this way, adjust the lamp that way, and I still can't see things. My gosh. I was getting pretty frustrated. So I relent. I get up and go to get a LED light that has a positionable light head. I sit down, push on the power button... and nothing. What the...the battery is dead.   

Then it hit me. My head mounted magnifier has a built in LED light. But, with the way that things are going I am thinking, yeah, batteries are probably dead. I flip the switch and eureka! There is light! I sit down and peer into the ship. Like I was reborn, I can see everything. I always thought that this light was just a gimmick but man...it really helped me with this. In fact, it helped to illuminate the interior for the image above. You can tell by the blue color cast. A link to what I use is shown below. I had to modify things so that I can use readers with them, but for the money, this thing is a bargain.

https://www.amazon.com/HOUSWEETY-Professional-Jewelers-Magnifier-Tweezers/dp/B005VIG6TA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492897973&sr=8-1&keywords=housweety+magnifier

And it's begun...

Through trying this and trying that, I have found it best to secure the deadeyes before attaching the chains. Doing it this way allows me the ability to position the deadeye exactly how I want it. This is as opposed to fumbling around with both the chain and the deadeye at the same time.

Below: This is what I have done thus far. The thread is fed through the channel along with the strop nub. Using tape I secure each thread away from the opening and dab some CA into it. I then position the deadeye, and let it set. 

As Austin Powers would say, and I'm spent. 

Critical mass...

Greetings all. Well, installing the chains was a bust. I had problems with the string not holding tight. When I thought it was tight and knotted, it would loosen up. This lead to the chains being floppy. On my third attempt I used pliers, one on each end, and at the risk of breaking something, I pulled on them really hard. And I mean I was pulling hard. That seemed to work but the damage is done. The first two are not fixable because there is no untying them. That means cutting them and starting over by trying to pull the deadeyes out, and do a complete re-do. Aside from that, I don't like the look of the knots either. At this scale, their thready appearance becomes very apparent.

What happened and how they look is why I resisted going with the string for so long. I would have been better off reaming the holes larger and use the oversized 34 AWG wire. But, there is no guarantee that I could have pulled that off either. Truly, in 20/20 hindsight, the best option was to have assembled the strop to the chain while off the model. If I had left off the channel end piece (don't know what else to call it), I could have done that. Then I could have inserted the assembly into the channel notches, and enclose it by adding the end piece. That would have made this so much more easier to do.

If you have been following my WIP you will know all the issues that cropped up for me, even to the point of my struggle to make Photobucket work. I have reached a point of critical mass where I have lost my love for this project. I just don't see that it's worth the effort anymore, and starting over with all the deadeyes, again, is not on my radar. It is time to move on and to start something else. I will box this build up and maybe, resurrect it another day. I doubt it, but one never knows.

A special thanks to JT, GM, and Docidle for all the awesome input and guidance. You guys encouraged me to push the limits of my skills, and I learned a ton by doing this. Though this WIP ends in failure, for me, it was a major win. I really enjoyed doing this WIP. Thanks to everyone else for following along too.

I plan to start a new project, one that is hopefully less troublesome. It might even be done as a WIP.

Thanks.

Steve

ygmodeler4

Sorry to hear about that Steve. Hobbies aren't meant to be stressful, if you aren't enjoying it no reason to keep doing it. On to the next kit, I'm sure it'll turn out great!

 

You know, this can happen. Id take the perspective that when this thing was conceived and sold, it was a $ 5 kit. There is no one, repeat no one, who will look at it and say,

"that modeler wasn't up to the challenge".

We can all get caught up in AMS sometimes, and yes it is a buzz kill.

Your comment about going back to the idea of 34 AWG for the chains is funny.

It reminds me of that scene in "The French Connection" where the cops steal the Lincoln while the driver is in a restaurant, to search it for the drugs.

Doyle goes into the garage, the thing is stripped to the frame.

"We did everything but rip out the rocker panels".

Pause, look at each other, guess what?

I'd perservere, pilgrim.

Alan Villiers is counting on you.

Best darn Revell Mayflower build I have ever seen.

Watching this for a couple years, if you weren't doing some very nice work you sure had me fooled, Steve.

Steve,

Take a break, build something less challenging, keep the Mayflower in a place where you can look at it from time to time. Over a period of time when you've built a kit or two to your satisfaction you'll most likely have contemplated some solutions or potential solutions to the puzzles you've encountered with your Mayflower. Even if that's not the case, I'll bet you'll think about it now and again and, in a span of time far less than it's taken you to get this far, I'll wager you'll start itching to just try something you thought about or found on the 'net to continue this build.

I think you should begin enjoying building a relatively quick project, just to get back to the satisfaction of having completed a kit. The rest will come later.

It's been a very pleasant experience watching your Mayflower progress to this point and I thank you for the pleasure I've gotten from watching it come together as far as it has.

1943Mike

Steve,

Take a break, build something less challenging, keep the Mayflower in a place where you can look at it from time to time. Over a period of time when you've built a kit or two to your satisfaction you'll most likely have contemplated some solutions or potential solutions to the puzzles you've encountered with your Mayflower. Even if that's not the case, I'll bet you'll think about it now and again and, in a span of time far less than it's taken you to get this far, I'll wager you'll start itching to just try something you thought about or found on the 'net to continue this build.

I think you should begin enjoying building a relatively quick project, just to get back to the satisfaction of having completed a kit. The rest will come later.

It's been a very pleasant experience watching your Mayflower progress to this point and I thank you for the pleasure I've gotten from watching it come together as far as it has.

 

Say Mike, that is all good advice and that, is exactly what I will do. Thanks much for taking the time to post this and your kind words. Your message encourages me.

Thank you.

Steve

Greg

Watching this for a couple years, if you weren't doing some very nice work you sure had me fooled, Steve.

 

 

GMorrison

Best darn Revell Mayflower build I have ever seen.

Ship Master Morrison--coming from you, the Viking Ship Whisperer, this does mean a lot. Thanks...

You guys convinced me to keep on with it. Here is the deal though. I definitely need to step away from it for a spell to get back my modeling ***. I've been hacking away at this project for two years and I am battle weary. What Mike said is a good plan, and that is exactly what I intend to do. 

Here is the new Mayflower Compact: I will start a new build to recharge myself, and once that is completed, I will come back to this project and finish it out. 

After all, the Pilgrims are counting on me, and a few other...

You guys didn't know it, but Popeye commissioned this build in a joint venture with the Pilgrims. Like with the Pilgrims escaping religious persecution, Popeye and his family seek to escape persecution as well. In their case, to escape from the constant harassment of Bluto. Where does he want to sail to? Well, Goon Island of course. 

Sorry--I couldn't resist an attempt at humor.

You guys are the best.

Ok so... I know what I am going to build, and I will do it as a WIP as well. I purchased a Seaview sub. The question is: Do I do the build under Science Fiction? Or do I post it under Ships?

Let me know what you think.

Thanks..

Good plan, Steve.

Though I don't know where to post it, building a Seaview sounds like fun. In my mind I'm picturing some wierd Mayflower/Seaview diorama.

Greg

Good plan, Steve.

Though I don't know where to post it, building a Seaview sounds like fun. In my mind I'm picturing some wierd Mayflower/Seaview diorama.

 

Greg, that is funny. You must be a mind reader

What, she wasn't real?

[quote user="GMorrison"]

[/quote You lost me my friend. What wasn't real? Sorry I am dense.

GMorrison

What, she wasn't real?

 

 

Oh never mind. I think I got it now. You are talking about the Seaview. Lol.

Yes, and perfectly able to travel back in time.

Greg

Yes, and perfectly able to travel back in time.

 

You know what is funny? Last night I DVRd a Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea and the story involved time travelers. Too funny. 

Good day , Steve,

Unfortunately I don't have oportunity to see your building very often, but I like very much how Your MF model looks!!! You do very good job by my opinion...

when You will back to this project, I would like to suggest to look at my experiments...a few years ago,I was busy with the same things...at least finaly found some more or less simple solution...this is 

Regarding how to secure deadeye /or assembling all those components/lower deadeyes-chain plates and chain...

I did it in reverse direction,if I could say... first, I 've made slots in the chain plates edge...than secured lower part of the chains at their places at ?wale?(I used simple juverly silver chain of suitable size,due to I didn't find proper modeling chain at that time:))))... than place a drop of CA gel in the chain plate slot (slot must be w/o paint for good glue adhesive effect) and than stretched out piece of chain under small weight through this slot and leave it for a time when CA gel became completely dry...than cutted out excessive part of chain at the level of chain plate...this way all chains looks like under tension ... than , above cutted chain ,in the same slot, I clued small wire shackle where deadeye binding will be secured...this way You will have moveable lower deadeye,for later shrouds installation, and at the same time, your chain will looks tight...later on, slots with all clued parts , was covered by plank and painted... there is pictures,how I did it, ... hope it will be more informative ,than my explanations in english :)))

http://karopka.ru/forum/forum190/topic10341/?PAGEN_1=3

Good luck and All The Best!!!

Kirill

Hello Kirill...it is good to hear from you.

Thank you for the kind words about my MF build. I appreciate your opinion. Also, thank you for your advice on how to fix the problem. That is the way that I should have done it to start with.

I am taking a break from this build for a bit but when I get back to it, I had already made up my mind that I would try to pull off the end pieces on the chain plates. That would allow me to do things different and like what you are suggesting.

Thank you as well for the link to your build. You do awesome work. I will be looking at it closer.

Thanks again!

Steve

Hello Steve,

I'm glad if it help you to fix this problem with lower deadeye assembling...there is,on page 17 ,on that link to my "full size" building log, I posted fotoes regarding lower dead eye assembling...for making deadeye binding, I used iron wire(darkened in that antique effect liquid)of  suitable diam....o.5 or 1.o mm drill and miniature plier for making proper shape of the DE binding, and nail cutters, to cut wire...by the way,this nail cutters much better for cutting wire or threads when ness-ry to have accurate ,sharp cutt...much better than all other staff,like scissors or smth.else...

when installing deadeye,first I placed preshaped DE binding through imitation of upper chain link,which was clued into the chain plates slot,as I described before......than placed deadeye inside binding opening, and finaly pressed the deadeye binding with a suitable miniature clamp, apply a drop of CA gel to the joint of the binding and left for a few hours until the gel completely dried, for reliability, it is better to apply a liquid CA in the upper part of the deadeye as well,after CA gel became dry ... when the CA is completely dry, the excess of CA can be removed with fine file and places of application СА need to be " repainting " to cover all these manipulations :))).

All The Best!

Kirill

Kirill, this is very helpful. I will review all this again when I restart the project.

Thank you again!

Steve

I have a strong hankering to hit the restart button. It took 2 years to get to this point; that is nearly as long of time that I was working on it. Funny how that works.

The question running through my mind is... do I salvage the work already done or do I start over with a larger kit. I am leaning towards a complete do-over with the larger kit. 

Anyway-- the itch is back and it's getting difficult to not scratch it. Researching things...

Later.

start scratching mate , I'll be there .

steve5

start scratching mate , I'll be there .