Revell 1/72 Type IXC U-boat Completed

The work that Foxbat has done is amazing. Too bad that all that detailed work under the deck will not be seen at all. There is another member on that forum with a screen name or Siara who did an incredible job on the Dancing Devil boat (U-552) 3-4 years ago. Quite a talented bunch.

When you Google U-boat Model images this one is one of the first to come up. 

modelcrazy

I'm hoping to duplicate this level of weathering. This a type VII I found on Google images. Builder is unknown, unless some knows him. Almost looks like the rust chipping and barnicals would cut your hand if you picked it up.

 

I saw your post the other day and was sure i had seen that before. The build was posted on the AMP forum, i had bookmarked it for future referance.

http://models.rokket.biz/index.php?topic=443.315

page 1 shows how he did the oil canning, and he did the same as you Steve. I was really interested he how he fitted al the PE, i had not realised how much work that would be.

Great discussion guys, some really useful info there. One of the main reasons i am doing the 125th kit in the GB is to practice painting and weathering before i tackle one of the big ones.

I have been contemplating geting the AK ships weathering sets, but i hope i can pick up enough tips here that i won't need to.

The wife and I went to his gallery in New Smyrna Beach that is about an hour away from our house. His paintings look great on TV but up close, they are fabulous. Amazing what he was able to to do with a 2 " brush.

I use to paint Bob Ross style and and am familiar with the technique. I have a few of my "masterpieces" hanging on the walls. I use the left over tubes for weathering.

Thanks Steve. Yes the flood holes were a pain to clean out cause they are small. I had to buy a mini jewler's file set to clean out the small holes. The area above the tanks (central drainage area) was very difficult to clean out and then had to build up the ribs with thin plastic card cut in strips.

The weathering is a combination of oil DOT streaking, washes and dry brushing. You can use the thick oil paint to crust the rust like chips here and there. Just let the oil paint dry for a few days. Bob Ross used a similar technique to texture some of his wet on wet paintings. 

Ok Steve, got the camera out and took some snaps of my Revell 1/144 Type VII/C. It's a little hard to capture the subtle brown shades with the camera but the washes help tone the black to a brownish tint.

Typical areas where rust stains appeared

I used green oil paint to wash the brass painted props

Conning tower details

Un shrouded diesel exhaust vent and soot staining. Hope this helps.

When you get a round to it.

I should have the half hull done tonight and upload some pics tomorrow.

modelcrazy

I was also thinking of applying some Mr. Dissolved Putty in some of the oil caned areas and smoothing them down with denatured alcohol. That should make an interesting effect. More of a dented appearance I should think. I sure hope this is all worth it.

Steve

 

IMO that will not be necessary. The oil canning looks very good as it is. My 9 month old granddaughter is holding me hostage so I will have a couple of pictures up l tonight once I have the time.

Rest assured, Steve - your boat looks great and all of the extra work is well worth it! Nice job!

That would be great PJ! Your wood effects are unparalleled.

On the contrary Steve, your oil canning looks very good and would not be even thruout the hull. As far as the deck goes, I would paint it flat black, then do some brownish drybrushing followed by some brown oil washes to irregurlary tint some of planking, just a suggestion. If you want to, I can photograph my Type VII to give you some ideas.

Thanks PJ,

I was going to handle my wood deck differently than our fellow modeler did. I have been searching several sites (I forget about the AMP site) for clues for a weathered deck. Most of the photos found are B&W though. The rust will just be on the above water surfaces with a somewhat fowled hull below the waterline, Despite how much anti fowling is applied, those little buggers still attach themselves to a hull. I will use a burnt umber to pre-shade anywhere I feel there may be chipped paint and apply small areas of AK’s Weathering Effects over it. Once the exterior paint has dried I remove it the same way one would with the hairspray method. I will defiantly be using oils. Ever since you turned me on to them, I have never looked back.

I probably went too deep on the oil canning on the bow, but this was my first attempt and I believe the subsequent weathering will tone it down. I have backed off considerably on the rest of the hull but will need to do similar to the other half. This method works well for dents and such as well.

Steve

The German black anti fowling paint on the teak deck eventually turned brownish on high foot traffic areas. I see where some modelers apply rust stains to the wood deck which is incorrect. Only the small areas at the stern and bow that were metal should be rust stained. Any kind of streaking below the waterline  would be restricted only to the anchor storage area otherwise the anti fowling paint would have been discolored from the salt in the sea water. Rust streaks would have been found on the vertical metal areas above the waterline, specially the hand railings, conning tower and flood holes. You can use artists oils in orange, red to brown range to sterak over the flat paint for very realistic rust staining. The deck can receive a reddish/brown oil wash to get the discoloration.  

For the props, use a green oil wash to tarnish and stain them. This is an excellent referece source that I used when I built my Type VII/C: http://amp.rokket.biz/

Hey MC,  the example you are working to build to is pretty darn cool. The weathering is incredible.  

Hokey

This process sounds soooo cool but when I watch U-Boat videos I cant' really see much of it. What am i missing?

The stress on the metal skin causes this very subtle effect that is visible when viewed at different angles. Most pictures will not show this effect unless they were taken at close range and at the right angle to show the oil canning waving effect.

Excellent work, MC. I am enjoying this WIP. Way to go on the oil canning!

modelcrazy

Well I’m about half way done with the oil canning……on one side of the hull. I’m becoming more confidant with this process and less worried about messing it up. If there is a mistake, it can easily be fixed and will mold right into the weathered U-boat after a patrol scheme. I can also use this project to practice some weathering technics I wanted to try for chipping, rust and faded paint. I wanted to get some pictures last night but decided to wait until I done with the first half of the hull.

This process sounds soooo cool but when I watch U-Boat videos I cant' really see much of it. What am i missing?

Well I’m about half way done with the oil canning……on one side of the hull. I’m becoming more confidant with this process and less worried about messing it up. If there is a mistake, it can easily be fixed and will mold right into the weathered U-boat after a patrol scheme. I can also use this project to practice some weathering technics I wanted to try for chipping, rust and faded paint. I wanted to get some pictures last night but decided to wait until I done with the first half of the hull.

LOL TB, don't worry, she's going on a stand.

Thanks PJ, no I'm using a #22 curved carving blade.

Oh My !

 Please ! Don't do all that beautiful oilcanning and hide it in water . Do a drydock stand ! Beautiful work so far . ! T.B.

Looks very good Steve. Are using a Dremel set on low speed?