Moebius Seaview 1:350 scale WIP

Greg

And no worries re the Hedison quote. BTW, his name (David Hedison) came up at Eurchre last night. Hmmmmmm, odd.

What .... did I miss something ?? 

Who is David Hedison?

What quote ?

Greg

: I recall doing this back in my weathering train car days. The airbrush blew the pastels off, was really frustrating. It can be done, but it's a goofy process I'd try to avoid.

That was my experience as well.... great way to "screw up " a locomotive !

Greg

Greg's thoughts on a couple things for your perusal;

Your idea of using pastels with a clear coat over the top: I recall doing this back in my weathering train car days. The airbrush blew the pastels off, was really frustrating. It can be done, but it's a goofy process I'd try to avoid.

Your asking about clear coat, specifically Future: I've had nothing but trouble trying to spray future (it dips nicely, and I agree with Cadet Chuck, I hear it works good on floors). I'd rather see you use any of the clear coats mentioned already, that's just me.

But then I'm all the time reading of folks says "Huh? I spray it all the time, no problems". So who knows. 

Oil washes: glad you have some expert advice from other loyal followers, cuz I know nothing.

And no worries re the Hedison quote. BTW, his name (David Hedison) came up at Eurchre last night. Hmmmmmm, odd.

 

Say Greg... That makes total sense. Thanks for the input. My question then is how are people using pastels? This would be a good topic for discussion. Anyone out there that uses them...maybe you can share how to overcome the issue that Greg describes.

Hedison? Another case of serendipity hey? It makes you wonder sometimes doesn't it.

littletimmy

 

 

Greg

And no worries re the Hedison quote. BTW, his name (David Hedison) came up at Eurchre last night. Hmmmmmm, odd.

 

 

What .... did I miss something ?? 

Who is David Hedison?

What quote ?

 

 

Steve,

The Seaview is looking great bud. 

On Pastels, the Metalheads (Armor modelers) are probably the best guys to ask. My understanding is that one scrapes the pastel from the stick so that you have a pile of pastel color to work with. Then using a brush, you would apply it to the area in question. When you have the effect you’re looking for then seal it with a clear coat.

Personally, I am going to give them a go on a Tamiya FW-190 I’m trying my hand at so I will let you know how it goes if you‘re interested. I plan on purchasing some Artist Pastels.

Steve

docidle

Steve,

The Seaview is looking great bud. 

On Pastels, the Metalheads (Armor modelers) are probably the best guys to ask. My understanding is that one scrapes the pastel from the stick so that you have a pile of pastel color to work with. Then using a brush, you would apply it to the area in question. When you have the effect you’re looking for then seal it with a clear coat.

Personally, I am going to give them a go on a Tamiya FW-190 I’m trying my hand at so I will let you know how it goes if you‘re interested. I plan on purchasing some Artist Pastels.

Steve

 

Hey Steve..thanks about the Seaview. Sorry it's taking so long to finish!

Yes, but there is the rub. Greg says that trying to seal it using an AB that the air blows off the pastel.

YES! Please do let us know how it works for you. This is something that I want to learn.

Great to hear form you!

steve 

you can also apply them , by first putting down a coat of fixer , ie - any decal fixer . then applying the pastel dust . it will dry to a natural finish , just apply light coats till you are satisfied , you can then apply a coat of clear .

steve5

steve

I find it good straight from the bottle . I use a H&S evolution with a .2mm needle .

 

Hey Steve 5. I just watched a video about this stuff and man, it looks really good. You can even use it to dunk canopies and such. Here is the bad news. This is hard to find in the States. Seriously, I am bummed. I got all excited when I found it at Hobbylinc. Then I realized it is Humbrols Clear Varnish. That is not the same thing as the Humbrol Clear. Humbrol Clear is an acrylic. The clear varnish is an enamel. I tried Amazon and their vendors ship from overseas. It could be January before I would get it.

Blah!

steve5

steve 

you can also apply them , by first putting down a coat of fixer , ie - any decal fixer . then applying the pastel dust . it will dry to a natural finish , just apply light coats till you are satisfied , you can then apply a coat of clear .

 

steve 

that suck's mate , and unusual , as I often sit in wonder and jealousy , about the availability of product in america ,

I'm sure there are other clears on the market , e-bay ? , I've never used future , but a lot of people swear by it .

steve5

steve5

steve 

that suck's mate , and unusual , as I often sit in wonder and jealousy , about the availability of product in america ,

I'm sure there are other clears on the market , e-bay ? , I've never used future , but a lot of people swear by it .

steve5

 

 

Thanks man.

littletimmy

I use Testors Gloss coat. As long as you don't "go off" with a lot of coat's , the detail's will still be there. They also have a Semi-Gloss.

Tamya has a Satin gloss that could be the perfect final coat.

 

Bakster

Tim...I assume you are talking about the Tester Gloss Coat lacquer. Correct?

 Yes.

Bakster

You can use enamel washes over lacquer correct?

I do it all the time, but "my way " and "your way" may be compleatly different tecnique's so PLEASE TEST FIRST ! 

littletimmy

I do it all the time, but "my way " and "your way" may be compleatly different tecnique's so PLEASE TEST FIRST ! 

Yep... I always test before I try something new. If I don't like what I see, I'll scrap this idea for another time and build.

I appreciate the help and advice from you guys.

Thanks.

Bakster.

The color coat is on. I went with the shade in the middle. Or close to it. 

Got to love Tamiya paint. It goes on with near perfection.

Next up: The weathering rabbit hole. 

Bakster

Next up: The weathering rabbit hole.

NOOOOOO !!!! DONT JUMP !!! YOU HAVE SO MUCH TO LIVE FOR !!!

Oh...... nevermind..... It's only like 3 feet deep.

I cant tell by the picture's. Did you mask the window's or are you going to put them in later ?

littletimmy

 

 

Bakster

Next up: The weathering rabbit hole.

 

 

NOOOOOO !!!! DONT JUMP !!! YOU HAVE SO MUCH TO LIVE FOR !!!

Oh...... nevermind..... It's only like 3 feet deep.

I cant tell by the picture's. Did you mask the window's or are you going to put them in later ?

 

Lol. Yeah buddy. Another rabbit hole that could cave in on me.

The windows will be installed later. They are masked and painted though. They are ready to go for when the time comes. That will be a fun time for me because when that day comes... it means I am on the home stretch. Giddy up!

Reactor Charged and ready? I might have some extra Plutonium around here somewhere that I used to warm the shed with.

Hodakamax

Reactor Charged and ready? I might have some extra Plutonium around here somewhere.

 

Max, I have it on trickle charge. She is ready to go when I'll be ready. BTW... Thanks about the Plutonium. I hope you didn't get it from the Libyans. We might have to escape using the Delorean. 

Masking the missile hatches...

The dilemma is how in the world I will paint all those missile hatches. Freehand is not an option for me, not at this scale. I could do it... but it would look like garbage. To neatly cut masks from tape is pretty much a no joy as well. I could try using putty? That might have worked, but, it would be painstaking to shape the putty around each hatch. Plus--the masking layer would be relatively thick causing the sides of the hatch covers to be masked out. I think that I have come up with a better option. 

Ideally-- I would have done this before I assembled the hull. I didn't. So... I ordered a second top deck for this process. The deck is secured, the edges puttied, and several coats of Castin Craft mold release applied.

Using Alumilite Amazing Clear--I laid a layer over the deck and around the hatches. I found it best to let the resin rest for about 30 minutes before applying it. It is still liquid enough but not so much that you need to keep reapplying it. The resin tends to run off the piece. This is accelerated by the mold release coating.

I let the resin cure for at least two days before attempting to pull it off the deck. Pulling the resin off is accomplished by carefully prying it up using a hobby knife. 

I tried this process three times and this is the closest I could come to an intact piece. Only parts of it are useable. No matter...it will still work.

Below: I wanted the hinges painted too. So, I had to notch those out. I picked the best section that I could use. I'll spray the six, move the mask, and spray the next six. And so on. I'll use tape to mask other areas from overspray as well.

I also tried this using epoxy. Though it works, it does not work as well. It was brittle and prone to breakage. Also--the layer tends to be much thicker. The Alumilite mask is very pliable and less prone to breaking. Also, because of it's self-leveling properties, the layer is much thinner.

It's not the perfect answer... but, it ought to work. I will probably paint the hatches this weekend. 

Way to think "outside the box" !!!

I probably would have cut them all off, painted them , and glued them back on........

( In other word's  .... compleatly destroyed them ! )

littletimmy

Way to think "outside the box" !!!

I probably would have cut them all off, painted them , and glued them back on........

( In other word's  .... compleatly destroyed them ! )

 

Thanks Tim. You know.. I thought about something similar to what you are saying. I thought about making a mold of the deck, cast duplicates of the hatches themselves, sand the hatches off the main deck, and then glue the painted duplicates on. It would have been a lot of work and would have been frought with pitfalls. I don't think it would have ended well, and that is why I didn't go that way. 

This holds some promise in my quest for a better way to mask intricate things. This would have gone better if the hatches are not so darn close to the edge of the decking. If they were not, I might have been able to cast the mask in one useable piece. I considered repairing the one that I made too. In the end, I didn't see that it was worth the effort. I have six usable masks and that should do the trick.

The missile hatches are painted. The masks worked pretty well and I am happy with the outcome. I also plan to paint the escape hatches and the seam like structure that runs to them.

End of update.

Merry Christmas everyone. I hope you will/are having a good one.

Normally I wouldn't be modeling on Christmas but illness within our families made celebrating Christmas together a big no show. The bug is flying around here in a big way. I think that I escaped the worst of what people are getting but it knocked me down pretty good too. 

The escape hatches and other structures are now painted. I painted the doors on the sail too. I am on the fence with if I like it. Maybe you guys have an opinion. I don't think the sub in the TV show had them darkened like that but I am not trying to match their sub anyway.

The sail is not glued down. I pressed it on to see how it will look. I had to do some sanding first because it was a bad fit. Egads.

The next major step is adding some weathering. I have been doing a lot of research on this and now it's time to practice some things. More to follow on that.

Sinister! I guess is the word. This thing is starting to look business-like! Missile tubes are always scary. The perfect gray. Lookin' good, a fun one to follow. I'm still on my 1/1 project on the Hodaka site but I do check on everyone almost daily.

Carry on!

Max

Bakster

I painted the doors on the sail too. I am on the fence with if I like it. Maybe you guys have an opinion.

Maybe paint the door's in a Grey that's in-between the color of the sub and the color of the missle hatche's ? As the door's are now, they appear too dark.

Whatever you do..... don't forget to paint the "flooding vent's " That would just look wierd.

BTW.... Congratulation's ! You have me wanting to build one myself. .... sometime in the near future.

                            Thank You  ????    Hmmmmmmm .........

looking good as always steve

steve5

littletimmy

Maybe paint the door's in a Grey that's in-between the color of the sub and the color of the missle hatche's ? As the door's are now, they appear too dark.

Timmy... you have passed the Bakster challenge. That is exactly what I should have done. I feel they are too dark as well. I was too lazy to mix a new color and I went with the same color as the missile hatches. Blasted! Well done sir. I guess I'll have to repaint them. On the other hand. Maybe I should leave it the same color as the hull? In the real world thats what it would probably be. Correct? I was just trying to add some variety.

Oh don't you worry. All those ballast vents will be blacked out for sure. I will do that after the weathering. That should really pull things together. 

Speaking of the weathering. I just came up from the basement. I tried a lot of different things. Like oil washes, acrylic washes, weathering powder mixed in a base, and strait on. It all looked like garbage. The closest I can come at this point is with using weathering powders. My problem with the powder is that I am unable to control its strength. I want it more subtle and I can't seem to find a way to gradually build up the effect. Either there is not enough on the brush, or there is too much. Also... it is hard to control the size of the streaks. For the record... I am using Aim Weathering powders. I think that they add binding agents. Frustrated. To be honest... I may just skip weathering it. 

Hey! If you do build one...wait until mine is done. Don't embarrass me by building yours in a week! Lol.

steve5

looking good as always steve

steve5

 

Thanks Steve. 

Hodakamax

Sinister! I guess is the word. This thing is starting to look business-like! Missile tubes are always scary. The perfect gray. Lookin' good, a fun one to follow. I'm still on my 1/1 project on the Hodaka site but I do check on everyone almost daily.

Carry on!

Max

 

Bakster

Maybe I should leave it the same color as the hull? In the real world thats what it would probably be. Correct?

Yeah, in the "real world" the doors would be the same color...... You "could" cut a very small flat piece of plastic and pose the door open......

STOP !!!!!! Dont listen to the man behind the curtain !!!!!!    He is leading you astray !!!!

( Yea.... maybe pose a little guy in the doorway fishing...... )

THIS ISN'T HELPING TO GET THE PROJECT FINISHED !!!!!

 :Timmy has been sniffing "too much" glue.  His ideas are Lame and should be ignored ! :

Maybe you should paint the door's the same color as the hull...... Stop the madness...... stop me..... before I "suggest something truely horrific.

Bakster

Hey! If you do build one...wait until mine is done. Don't embarrass me by building yours in a week! Lol.

 The way I build stuff...... I would be "LUCKY" to even get the kit out of the box , in a week !